Tips for DIY electricians

[BvilleBound]

Hello all: I need to install a new electric line for a new Bruno stairway lift (great product, by the way!). So I needed a couple of key tools I have at home:

1. Non-contact voltage tester - AKA 'glow stick'. This is a simple, essential tool, that allows you to check if voltage is live on a receptacle, line, etc you want to work on. Never work on electric stuff without it!
   
   
2. GFCI / recep tester: Quickly tests whether an existing recep is correctly wired, and if the GFCI is working. Great time saver - because GFCIs fail.

You can buy both today for $25 from Home Depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...-GFCI-Receptacle-Test-Kit-NCVT1PKIT/323310181

Here are some more recommendations for DIY electricians:

• Turn off the breaker: Always find and turn off the breaker for the circuit you are working on. New tools are available to find the breaker a recep is connected to. For example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...with-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-ET310-ET310/308709729
  
  
• WHITE electrical tape: Why not classic black? It leads to black marks on recep covers, etc. - and you cannot write on it, e.g. to label an electric line.
  
  
• Use screw connectors - not 'push in': Receps and switches often include screw terminals on the side, and 'push in' connectors on the face. Always use the more-secure screw terminals, with only ONE wire on a screw. The end of good wire-stripper tools, e.g. Klein, are designed to bend wire to fit the screw pockets.
  
  
• Use pigtails: If you have multiple 'hot', neutral or ground wires in a box, but only one screw, create a pigtail - a short piece of wire with one end connected to the 'multiple' bunch, and the other on the recep / switch.
  
  
• Push everything in - then tighten again: Push the recep / switch into the box, then pull it out a bit - and re-tighten the wire screws. You may be surprised by how often they can be tightened up!
  
  
• Wrap tape around recep / switch terminals: Before you push the recep / switch in for the final time, wrap electrical tape around it, covering the screw terminals. This helps to prevent a short and fire if a wire comes loose - and helps to prevent shock for a dufus homeowner - who grabs the recep / switch and pulls it out, while it is live.
  
  
• Best wire nuts: Ideal Pro-Flex Mini - easier to install and take up less space in tight recep / switch boxes. See:
  https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-Twister-ProFlex-Mini-30-Pack-30-1043S/320636846
  
  
• Larger boxes: Trying to pack wires into a small box is a hassle - and violates the electric code, which limits the number of wires in a box - to avoid heat buildup and fires. So always install the largest box you can. I had to dig out and replace all of the tiny metal boxes in the living room at 1620 Juniper - to install modern receps to current standards. This is a common problem with remodels of older homes.
  
  
• Remodeling? One GFCI can protect a circuit: Circuits in older homes often have no ground wire. So how can you protect the receps (and your family) without tearing up the walls for a complete rewire? Install a GFCI at the 'first' recep on the circuit - which will protect all receps down the line. And no ground line is needed for that first GFCI. Another option: Install new GFCI / AFCI breakers in the main panel, which will protect all receps and devices on each circuit. Note 1: Older wiring may support only GFCI breakers - not GFCI/AFCI. Note 2: GFCI receps are also required / convenient for kitchen and bath countertops, where trips occur more frequently. You can easily reset the GFCI in the kitchen/bath - without going to the main panel and resetting a breaker. Recap GFCIs and also more sensitive than central GFCI breakers - for more protection.
  
  
• External circuits: The wire and receptacles etc used for exterior circuits are different from interior work. You CANNOT use standard white/yellow interior Romex, receps, boxes, switches or conduit OUTSIDE, that you use INSIDE. First, think sunlight and rain. Gray exterior wire has significantly more UV resistance than white interior wire. The same with receps, weatherproof boxes and switches. All exterior circuits also require a ground wire - no convenient GFCI cheats! Plus all exterior receps must be GFCI and weather resistant.

I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have any questions. There are many more details, e.g. amperage load and wire size, and I NEVER work on a main panel - too scary! If you are unsure, hire an electrician. I learned all of the above from Ed - the great electrician who fixed many problems at our homes.

 

[PJB12]

That's a nice post you took time to craft, Bville Bound. Thanks for writing it.

If you don't mind a few comments, suggested with respect, here are some ideas:
Turn Off Breaker: If there is any chance at all that someone will turn on the breaker, you can put an inexpensive breaker lock on it. It doesn't have to be the padlockable OSHA locks we use, it can be a set screw type that are made to keep breakers on- only flip it upside down to keep the breaker off.

White Tape: For labels, paper first aid tape works well as wire tags if you don't have a label maker. For cover labels, cloth first aid tape works well, too. I've found that in time white, vinyl electrical tape peels itself off of flat surfaces. Also for labels, sometimes it is helpful to write the circuit number on the inside of a receptacle or switch cover with a felt pen.

Use Screw Connector Not Push-Ins- Thank You!! for posting that. Push-in are scary. I work industrial, but have done friends and family favor residential jobs. I can't count how many were because push-ins burned.
If one isn't comfortable making the clockwise loop under a screw, Clamp-Back devices are made. Often they are labeled "Spec Grade". One pushes the conductor behind a serrated plate. The screw clamps the plate to the wire.

Tighten Again: Thank You!! again. To my mind, that is critical. It is very critical with stranded conductors and required for fine strand conductors. Do this for loops under screws, clamp back devices, circuit breakers- everything.

Wrap Device With Tape: Personally, I don't do it and cuss about people who do. But, if the wrapper would leave a flag of folded over tape to grab, I'd stop cussing. (PS: There is nothing wrong with wrapping & is an extra safety measure. I'm just a crab.)

Pro Flex Mini- Thanks for the tip. Never saw them. I'll try some next time I'm at the wholesaler. (I use Waygo style push-ins when possible, and Buchannen crimp connectors when no one but electricians will work on the project. Why? Speed Sometimes only twist ons, like Wire Nut brand or similar will do.)

Thanks for the tips about GFI and GFCI protecting two-wire circuits. Also for the AFCI mention. Thanks, too, for explaining outdoor devices versus indoor rated.


Thanks Again for the great write up!
Paul

 

[BvilleBound]

Dear Paul: Thanks for your reply and comments/suggestions. RE white vinyl electrical tape, I use that only on electrical cable, receps, switches etc. where a label can be helpful - e.g. a circuit or breaker number. Plus you never get the black marks on your hands and visible parts like cover plates, that standard black tape creates. I also add a small folded-over tab at the end, as you noted, to make it easy to remove for the next person who works on it - which might be me.

I saw Waygo connectors for the first time at our home in France, where they don’t use wire nuts. Initially, I was concerned that Waygo is weak and vulnerable - just like push-in connections. Nope. The simple clamping action is secure, and a very easy way to connect multiple wires, e.g. the bundle of neutral wires at the back of many residential boxes.

The ‘tighten again’ tip is also important for standard solid residential wire and receps / switches. I installed a new recep today with standard 14 gauge solid wire, tightened the screws, pushed it in then pulled it out a little - and found that one wire had loosened up! It’s often surprising - and underscores why this additional step is important.

 

[PJB12]

Sorry for the white tape confusion. I thought you were using it to make a label with writing on it.

Waygo Hint- To remove solid conductors, twist back-and-forth while firmly pulling. The conductor will extract easily and with no damage.

Every agency listed device has a torque rating for the screws & lug bolts in Imperial and metric.
Although generally impractical for daily use, torque screwdrivers are available. Even when a project (or common sense) mandates that I use one, I still go back and find that I can re-snug the fastener back to the torque rating. All Types of Connections: Solid wire, 19-Strand wire, Fine Strand wire, Groove Clamp, Split Bolt, Line Tap, Lug, Pin, Bus Lugs & Bus Plugs,...

Aluminum and ACSR conductors are the worst for self-loosening.
And, every time I am inside a load center, a panelboard, a siwtch or a switchboard, I work to find time to check torque on everything. If aluminum is present or signs of heat are present, it is critical.

 

[havasu]

I'd like to see pics of the stair lift!

 

[nobes]

That's a nice post you took time to craft, Bville Bound. Thanks for writing it.

If you don't mind a few comments, suggested with respect, here are some ideas:
Turn Off Breaker: If there is any chance at all that someone will turn on the breaker, you can put an inexpensive breaker lock on it. It doesn't have to be the padlockable OSHA locks we use, it can be a set screw type that are made to keep breakers on- only flip it upside down to keep the breaker off.

White Tape: For labels, paper first aid tape works well as wire tags if you don't have a label maker. For cover labels, cloth first aid tape works well, too. I've found that in time white, vinyl electrical tape peels itself off of flat surfaces. Also for labels, sometimes it is helpful to write the circuit number on the inside of a receptacle or switch cover with a felt pen.

Use Screw Connector Not Push-Ins- Thank You!! for posting that. Push-in are scary. I work industrial, but have done friends and family favor residential jobs. I can't count how many were because push-ins burned.
If one isn't comfortable making the clockwise loop under a screw, Clamp-Back devices are made. Often they are labeled "Spec Grade". One pushes the conductor behind a serrated plate. The screw clamps the plate to the wire.

Tighten Again: Thank You!! again. To my mind, that is critical. It is very critical with stranded conductors and required for fine strand conductors. Do this for loops under screws, clamp back devices, circuit breakers- everything.

Wrap Device With Tape: Personally, I don't do it and cuss about people who do. But, if the wrapper would leave a flag of folded over tape to grab, I'd stop cussing. (PS: There is nothing wrong with wrapping & is an extra safety measure. I'm just a crab.)

Pro Flex Mini- Thanks for the tip. Never saw them. I'll try some next time I'm at the wholesaler. (I use Waygo style push-ins when possible Metairie electrician, and Buchannen crimp connectors when no one but electricians will work on the project. Why? Speed Sometimes only twist ons, like Wire Nut brand or similar will do.)

Thanks for the tips about GFI and GFCI protecting two-wire circuits. Also for the AFCI mention. Thanks, too, for explaining outdoor devices versus indoor rated.


Thanks Again for the great write up!
Paul

Great breakdown of essential tools and best practices! I completely agree on using screw connectors instead of push-in and always double-checking connections after tightening. The tip about wrapping electrical tape around receptacle terminals is something I’ve started doing as well—definitely adds an extra layer of safety. For larger projects, I always make sure to calculate the box fill requirements to stay within code, especially when dealing with remodels in older homes. And on the topic of GFCIs, I’ve had to troubleshoot a few circuits where downstream protection was overlooked—definitely a lifesaver when installed correctly.

 

[BvilleBound]

I'd like to see pics of the stair lift!

Sorry for this late reply. The stair lift is a Bruno - made in the USA. You can only buy them through a dealer. We installed a straight one so my mother could access their garage on the lower level. They also make versions for stairs with landings, turns and curves - and outdoors.
See: https://www.bruno.com/stair-lifts/straight

To eliminate the transformer cable, I connected it to a line run through the wall to a receptacle. It does require a neutral line, so a line to a light switch may not work.

It looks like this: