How do I connect sink tail piece to drain pipe?

[tomtheelder2020]

Personally, I wouldn't spend a second worrying about odor from your very creative solution.

Here's Why:
A) Will self flush debris just as easily as a J-bend, perhaps better.
B) Creates an extra long water seal so it won't self-siphon during negative pressure conditions or if the system vent clogs.
C) Has a very deep weir. It'll handle accidental negative pressure and stop vermin extremely well.

Your solution looks like a low height drum trap. And, you've got it set up for easy removal should you so desire.

Similar "flat bottom" set ups are often used for condensate drains from million-plus BTU./Hr commercial air handlers and for swamp coolers. Any chance of bacteria laden odor is strictly prohibited for these units. (Legionnaire's Disease, etc.)

I am very happy to hear you think my solution will work. I went ahead with it because: a) I was under time pressure to make the bathroom usable; b) even if it doesn't flush well, it likely buys me a year or more; and c) it is really easy to remove and start over.

Regarding the jamb nut on the wall:
Since your house is 75 years young, the pipe in the wall is most likely galvanized iron. (You might be able to sneak a peek around the escutcheon or try a strong magnet.) The jamb nut is probably plated brass.
Since the galvanized is so much stronger than brass, here's an idea for when (if) you feel like going back in:
With eye protection on, use a fine tooth blade from a hacksaw in a holder or a Dremel type rotary cut-off tool to carefully cut part of the way through the jamb nut in at least 2 places, 180 degrees apart. Cutting in 3 places at 120 degrees is even better. The nut will peel off by (gloved) hand.
If it's easier, peel off the escutcheon. Split ones are available if you can't find a solid one to fit.

I considered this option but, never having done anything like this before, and have no idea what could go wrong, decided not to take a chance. If my solution does fail I might give a try but am more likely try your Fernco trap.

Thanks for the input.

 

[PJB12]

I am very happy to hear you think my solution will work. I went ahead with it because: a) I was under time pressure to make the bathroom usable; b) even if it doesn't flush well, it likely buys me a year or more; and c) it is really easy to remove and start over.

I considered this option but, never having done anything like this before, and have no idea what could go wrong, decided not to take a chance. If my solution does fail I might give a try but am more likely try your Fernco trap.

Thanks for the input.

You did very well! You'll have no troubles. It will self-wash quite well.
I've never, ever had to unclog ones similar to yours on industrial cooling units. P-traps? Oh Yes!

Keep in mind that mold slime builds up and gets stuck in regular sink and tub p-traps, too. Next time you remove one to retrieve something, look in the j-bend. Yuck!

You won't have to do this, but...
If you want to manually flush the pipes, fill the basin completely. Pull the pop-up out so that the sink can drain as fast as possible. This will flush much mold slime and hair away. Yours won't have much, if any.

You can also use vinegar instead of water.
Leaving it in the trap for 10 or so minutes after you drain the sink will allow it to destroy many pathogens. Dump some in the overflow opening & scrub with a long, flexible commercial coffee urn sight-glass brush. The overflow passages hold slime, too. Wipe off the pop-up fins and bottom as well.

To help keep your pipes & drains full diameter inside (on all sinks, showers, tubs, laundry & sewer pipes), put enzymes in the fixture drains once in a while.
Enzyme based septic tank cleaners are an inexpensive solution. Baking yeast also works very well. Mix about a teaspoon of enzyme in a liter of barely warm water, then pour some in each drain. Let them sit for as long as you can. They will eat the soap build up, mold slime and animal grease build up. Even after using the drains, some enzymes will stay behind and continue to eat and multiply for more cleaning until very hot water or harsh detergent kills them.

We use all natural hippie soaps & cleaners in our house. Those tend to be vegetable fat based and would quickly close the drain pipes with build up. Enzymes solved that in one application & keep them open until I mess up and dump scalding water from a cooking pot without running the cold water. I recently removed a j-bend to retrieve a ring that fell in. The bend was nearly spotless inside. Enzymes work.

Paul
PS: Your drain piping works well & looks good, too. I don't blame you for not wanting to attack the jamb nut at the wall. I put the ideas of how-to so you & other readers can have them in your mental tool kits should you ever need to remove a stuck one.