House feels colder when weather outside gets warmer, how come?

[thealfa]

When the weather is below 30 degrees, the house is warm. I've noticed, like today, the house feels colder when the temperature outside is in the 50s. Is this an issue with the house's insulation?

I don't think the house is insulated or it's just not updated to modern insulation. I'd have to inspect.

 

[Snoonyb]

As often as not, the perception of temperature, is directly related to the humidity level.

 

[PJB12]

What Snooyb said is very true. After the house dries a bit, you'll feel more comfortable. Warm and humidity can make one feel cold until the warmth rises above a certain level.

There's a "sweet spot" as the temp rises. Graphs exist in Human Factors Engineering text books illustrating the tip-over point for heat/humidity comfort. Then, at a certain temperature, it all reverses.


At the other end of the scale-
The temperature-humidity relationship is why with over sized air conditioners people feel uncomfortable. It the house cools, but the humidity is high, we feel clammy.

Crazy, huh?

 

[Snoonyb]

Swamp coolers.

 

[PJB12]

Swamp coolers.

Not in my climate.
They're only good when the air is both hot and dry.

A company for which I worked installed some on a restaurant they owned in Michigan to act as make up airs. Quicker than can be, the call came to disconnect the water!

 

[thealfa]

I see. The heating in the house was set to 68 degrees, regardless if it's single digits outside or 50 degrees. The house just felt colder when it was 50 degrees outside than it was in the 20s or 30s.

Should I turn on the humidifier when it gets warmer outside or it has nothing to do with it?

 

[PJB12]

I see. The heating in the house was set to 68 degrees, regardless if it's single digits outside or 50 degrees. The house just felt colder when it was 50 degrees outside than it was in the 20s or 30s.

Should I turn on the humidifier when it gets warmer outside or it has nothing to do with it?

In real life, at the same temperature and the same humidity indoors we should feel no change.
Should...

It is all a matter of Perceived Comfort. The mind's eye and psychology come into play. There are all kinds of studies about comfort versus temperature and versus humidity and even versus garment's fabric. Check university Human Factors Engineering and Research Psychology departments' on line libraries. Don't to forget to search the graduate thesis list.

Some studies show people reporting discomfort as the outdoor temp rose- when they were told it was rising, whether or not it rose.
Then, at a given outdoor temperature, they felt more comfortable again- whether or not anything changed.

There are very few constants. Things like high humidity in a very warm room is one.

Keep in mind also that hygrometers take a long time to register changes.

On line, there are many charts showing optimal indoor humidity levels versus outdoor temperature. Attached below has figures matching most dependable sources.

Also attached is a chart showing some pathogens and how they thrive at different humidity levels.

 

[thealfa]

Regarding those plastic window insulation (Frost King, Duck, etc.); I've used them before and it works on blocking out the cold and it does save electricity bills by keeping the heat in.

My mom took them off though because it got very hot in the house during summer. Does the plastic window insulation not work during summer season; block the heat out and keep the AC in?

 

[bud16415]

Your house might act like mine in terms of heating. When I wake up in the morning and the bedroom is roasting I know it is super cold outside and when I wake up and it is a warmer winter day the room feels cool. My furnace is in the basement and the T-stat is on the first floor. Upstairs are two bedrooms and a bath. We have a doorway where the stairs go up and we keep it closed in the winter as it seems to keep the stairs and hallway cooler and seems to save energy. We also keep the bath and bedroom doors closed. There is no return air ducts but the doors are off the floor enough to allow some flow back to the first floor.



In my case it is a zoning balancing act that is imposable to get perfect with just one zone and only the heat registers having dampening. I keep the bathroom and one bedroom flowing more and the unused bedroom set lower flow. I guess when it is cold there are lots of furnace cycles as the downstairs cools down faster than the upstairs. That switches when it warms a little. It is not an ideal setup but not bad enough to make me want to spend a lot on individual zone controls.

 

[PJB12]

Regarding those plastic window insulation (Frost King, Duck, etc.); I've used them before and it works on blocking out the cold and it does save electricity bills by keeping the heat in.

My mom took them off though because it got very hot in the house during summer. Does the plastic window insulation not work during summer season; block the heat out and keep the AC in?

Hi Thealfa,
The window film works two ways:
The primary way is to block air from passing through leaks into and out of the window and framing- summer and winter.
The secondary way is the create a dead-air space. Trapped gas (like air) is a very good insulator. That's why multi pane windows work- summer and winter

All seasons, be really careful to check once in a while to make certain that there is no moisture trapped between the window and the film. The moisture will allow mold to grow and can rot the wood.

In winter, the moisture comes from indoors. Sealing the film better will help. In summer, the moisture comes from outdoors. Not a lot can be done about that except caulking well and putting removable caulk or rope caulk on the moveable sashes.

If you look at the window film when a gas appliance with a vent is running (furnace, water heater), you may see the film bowing out into the house. That means you have a good seal. It also means that you need more combustion air for the appliance, but that's another topic.

So, my vote would be to leave the film all year on windows you don't want to open and to check for condensation or moisture periodically.

Or- If time and money permit, replacement sash kits are very easy to install. One does not have to remove trim. Good ones will seal the air quite well. We have Norco that seal so well that they allowed us to get rid of window film and storm windows.
I tried Ply-Gem. They are terrible as is warranty service.

 

[thealfa]

I've placed those window insulation films on the window frames (all 4 corners) using double sided tape as to cover the entire window glass, that way it blocks the cold air from outside going through the window glass.

I'm not sure if those sash kits you speak of block cold air from coming in through the window glass.

Does it work for any type of windows though?

 

[PJB12]

I've placed those window insulation films on the window frames (all 4 corners) using double sided tape as to cover the entire window glass, that way it blocks the cold air from outside going through the window glass.

I'm not sure if those sash kits you speak of block cold air from coming in through the window glass.

Does it work for any type of windows though?

Usually with the window film kits, one covers not only the glass but the sash also. The glass itself doesn't let air through, but dry and cracked glazing might. On double hung, the perimeter of the sashes & where they meet each other have the biggest air exchange. I can't tell for certain from the photo, but it looks like you did the job quite well!

Here is a link to instructions that explain how these replacement sash kits are installed. The guy makes it sound much more complicated than it really is. And, the part about replacing the stops isn't needed on many brands. They are built into the liners.
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21272268/window-sash-replacement-kit-installation

In a previous post, I mentioned that we have Norco sash kits. Jeld Wen bought Norco and discontinued the name. Here is a link to the Jeld Wen similar kit: https://www.jeld-wen.com/en-us/products/windows/siteline-clad-wood/double-hung-sash-pack

Ours are stain grade wood inside and aluminum clad outside. We have 6-over-1 lites on the top sash, single lite on the bottom.

Below is a brochure from Sierra Pacific. It'll give you some idea of the kits.

Paul

 

[thealfa]

Sorry, that window pic I've posted doesn't have window insulation film. I was simply making an example of the type of windows we have and how or where I put the double sided tape on (4 corners of the window frame), for other windows in the house.

 

[PJB12]

Sorry, that window pic I've posted doesn't have window insulation film. I was simply making an example of the type of windows we have and how or where I put the double sided tape on (4 corners of the window frame), for other windows in the house.

No biggie. Thanks for the clarification.
On those windows, I would absolutely tape to the moulding and tape 100% of the way around, leaving no gaps.

If you haven't purchased the film kits yet, check with your local utility. Many sell the kits cheap. I bought Frost King kits that do 4 windows each for 92 cents each at the gas company. In the home center, the same kits were about $12.00 each. Those utilities often also sell caulk, light bulbs and other energy saving items really cheap.