Reshingling suggestion request

[Lorne]

Hi,

Looking to reshingle this side of the house.

No access to conventional (store bought) scaffolding. Remote location.

Lumber and tools available. Thinking of DIY wood scaffold. Limited physical ability.

What would be most appropriate?

Thank you.

 

[Snoonyb]

Welcome, and thanks for the photo.

With physical limitations, I'd hire it done.

Suggestions; GOOGLE; tools for shingling steep slopped roofs.

 

[oldognewtrick]

Roofs Jack's on a steep slope.

But, on a slope as steep as you've shown, I'd seriously consider contacting a roofer. If you have limited mobility, your chances of getting hurt increases greatly. Not worth the rosh in my opinion ion. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Lorne]

Thank you for the responses.

Major concern being I'm doing this all alone. I move slowly.

Please advise how to avoid water damage from area removed of old shingles , prior to reapplication of underlayment (tar paper) and new shingles. ie. how do you secure tarping from winds? This will take me a couple of weeks to finish.

also,

Is there a better alternative to the triangular DIY scaffolding in the attached pic?

 

[oldognewtrick]

I showed you what professional roofers use to work on steep roofs. I'd suggest going to lowes or home depot and picking up a bundle of shingles, see how heavy they are and think about carrying 20 of them up a ladder and maneuver around on the roof with them. The scaffold you showed is for working on a wall, apples, oranges.

 

[Sparky617]

I DIY a lot of stuff. I painted my own house once. When my current house needed painting I hired it out. I had a crew working on my house for 4 days painting it. Doing the math I figured it would take me every weekend for the summer to paint it myself. When it comes time to replace my roof I will hire it out, and I'm pretty fit, especially for a 61 year old, but I won't bounce well if I slip off the back of my house that is 3 stories off the ground. I've done roofing as a volunteer with Appalachian Service Project but on a single story, not very steep roof. ASP uses metal roofing most of the time on simple roofs like yours. Complicated roofs with dormers, or valleys they hire it out.

Bottom line, I'd look for other areas to economize. Shingles are heavy, unless you can get them delivered on the roof you'll need to get them to the roof. You can probably rent a ladder lift to do it, but it isn't a one man job. You have a person on the ground loading and a person on the roof unloading. Otherwise you're going up and down a separate ladder with every bundle. That will get old really quick. Just getting the shingles to the roof will be an all day job for one person. Stripping the roof will take one person a day. When crews come and shingle houses in my neighborhood most come with a crew of 5 or 6 guys, sometimes more. They can finish most roofs in a day, from tarping off the yard, stripping the roof, getting the old shingles into the dumpster, putting down the ice shield and shingling the roof. If it takes 5 or 6 guys to do this in a day, it would take an experienced roofer a week or more to do it alone. Two people working together can complete more than two people working alone.

 

[cdestuck]

I certainly would get one or two of these. They seem like they really help against sliding off some roof

https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...=2ahUKEwj4t_Dvk6D3AhVJJt8KHajkBcEQ0Qx6BAgDEAE

 

[Eddie_T]

The supplier of my metal roof used to install as well. He said they roofed an A-frame using chicken ladders that hook over the peak. He said in a way it was easier as they were working in a more erect position.

 

[BvilleBound]

First, I agree with the guy who recommended that you hire a roofer.

• Stacks of shingles are heavy and will be very difficult to carry up a ladder - plus you will need a stronger ladder. Pros get them delivered ON the roof, with a forklift.
  
  
• Your roof is steep and will require roof jacks to hold stacks of shingles in place - and work on the roof.
  
  
• In addition to roof jacks - like the one in the video above - you should definitely use a fall protection device, with a harness and shock absorbing attachment, which must be securely fastened to the peak of the roof. In the video you will see that the roofer is roped up with fall protection, which is required for professional roofers. Fastening and using fall protection is also not a good job for an inexperienced DIY guy. See:
  
  
• WERNER Easy Wear Adjustable Fall Protection Safety Harness (D-Ring) H513002W
  
  
• Guardian Fall Protection 25 ft. Heavy Duty Self Retracting Lifeline with Heavy Duty Shock Pack & Removable Protective Cover 10922-QC
  
  
• Guardian Fall Protection Galvanized Roof Anchor 00645

In short, leave this job to a professional roofer - so you don't risk severe injury or death, and can enjoy other DIY jobs!

Second, make sure the professional roofer installs good self-adhesive poly underlayment - not Old School tar paper. This should cover at least 3' up from the lower soffit edge of the roof and at least 3' up from each valley. I recommend Grace Ice & Water Shield. If you live in an area where wind storms can be a problem, cover the entire roof with Ice & Water Shield. It isn't expensive and will provide a secure layer of protection if shingles are blown off or damaged. We covered the entire roof on our home in Massachusetts, for example.

Third, if you don't have gutters - and particularly if your house has a basement - now would be a good time to get gutters installed to move rain water away from your house. With all of the pine trees in your area, gutter screens would definitely be a good idea. 'Micro mesh' stainless steel screens are the best option; they are inexpensive, easy to install and even block the grit from asphalt shingles. See: Gutter Guard by Gutterglove - Gutter Guards & Strainers - Gutter Parts & Accessories - The Home Depot

Fourth: Check your soffit trim to see if it is rotting and needs to be replaced. I strongly recommend cellular PVC trim, which never rots or cracks, and never needs to be painted (if you want white trim). If you want a different color, PVC trim also holds paint much better than wood, because it does not absorb water. Cellular PVC is easy to cut and install. Use FastenMaster Cortex screws and caps, which eliminate screw holes. See: FastenMaster 176-Pieces 50 LF Collated Cortex for Azek Trim Traditional FMCTXTCL-AZ50TDHD Here is a photo of my home in Massachusetts; all of the trim you see is cellular PVC - great stuff!



I hope this is helpful.

 

[Eddie_T]

Cellular PVC fascia also solves the problem of carpenter bee invasion. I would love to have my fascia replaced but I have 300' or more of perimeter and one stick can cost over $100.

 

[BvilleBound]

Dear Eddie: I don't know where you got that price for cellular PVC trim.

• A four-pack of 8' x 5.5" x .75" Veranda trim costs $132 at HD. See:
  
  Veranda 1 in. x 5-1/2 in. x 8 ft. White PVC Trim (4-Pack) 827000201
  
  
• One 12' x 5.5" x .75" Royal PVC trim boards costs $38 at Lowes:
  
  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Royal-Buil...-in-x-12-ft-Common-Board-PVC-Board/1000445149

So the cost is roughly $2.75 t $3.12 per foot. So you could replace your 300' of trim for $825, not including a 'Pro' or quantity discount.

Plus you will never have to paint it or replace it again.

 

[Eddie_T]

Thanks, I may have looked up the wrong thing. I need brown or will have to paint. I'll take a look the next time I am in Lowes. I may just wrap my current fascia with aluminum or vinyl.

edit: I found my problem. The 'quick look' was for a pack of four rather than a piece price.

 

[BvilleBound]

Thanks, I may have looked up the wrong thing. I need brown or will have to paint. I'll take a look the next time I am in Lowes. I may just wrap my current fascia with aluminum or vinyl.

edit: I found my problem. The 'quick look' was for a pack of four rather than a piece price.

Dear Eddie: Wrapping your existing wood trim with vinyl or aluminum would be time consuming and only increase the opportunity for rot - by trapping water and blocking the ability to dry. I just rebuilt a deck where the original builder wrapped two beams with aluminum - evidently with the same idea. He wrapped aluminum completely around the beams with nice folds at the end and sealant - but water still got in and rotted the beams where they were covered and ‘protected’, perhaps via condensation. Your best solution is cellular PVC. To paint it, lightly ‘scuff’ sand the surface. Stand latex paint works fine. It would be easier to paint the trim boards before you attach them. You could also use standard stainless steel screws to attach the boards - instead of Cortex and caps - because you can touch up the screw holes with a bit of paint.

I hope this is helpful.

 

[raymond-]

When I was about 40 yrs old, I scoped out the price of roofing and decided it could do it myself and save about $5k. I had the store deliver most to the ridge after my brother and I tore off 2 layers. Then the rest was done solo including carrying some bundles up to the one story, low pitch roof.

Fast forward 25+ years (2 yrs ago) and it was time to reroof. My ego reminded me I could do it again. So I began the cost analysis again using my old plans. This time, I believe it would cost me about $4k and I still had the manual tools from the previous job.

I then realized that though my ego was still very healthy....I was now over 60, my balance and limbs aren't what they used to be. I need 2+ reading glasses.... I had a 5-way bypass several years earlier.

Hell, I paid the $8k and the roof was done by a team of pros in about 2.5 days .... and I used the time to install new electrical circuits around the house.

Roofing includes a critical weather factor which can be unpredictable and requires as few interruptions as possible

 

[jerrydorm81422]

When I was about 40 yrs old, I scoped out the price of roofing and decided it could do it myself and save about $5k. I had the store deliver most to the ridge after my brother and I tore off 2 layers. Then the rest was done solo including carrying some bundles up to the one story, low pitch roof.

Fast forward 25+ years (2 yrs ago) and it was time to reroof. My ego reminded me I could do it again. So I began the cost analysis again using my old plans. This time, I believe it would cost me about $4k and I still had the manual tools from the previous job.

I then realized that though my ego was still very healthy....I was now over 60, my balance and limbs aren't what they used to be. I need 2+ reading glasses.... I had a 5-way bypass several years earlier.

Hell, I paid the $8k and the roof was done by a team of pros in about 2.5 days .... and I used the time to install new electrical circuits around the house.

Roofing includes a critical weather factor which can be unpredictable and requires as few interruptions as possible

thank you for sharing your experience