Ceramic Tile floor replacement options?

[guest2]

I have a ceramic tile floor that runs into three rooms without any breaks and I need to repair part of the floor. Is there anything that can overlay the existing tile to help save on repair and replacement.

It is probably about 500 square feet.

thank you

 

[guest2]

No one has any advise on this?

 

[Snoonyb]

No one has any advise on this?

I think we were waiting for a more descriptive definition of what the, to be repaired area looked like.

 

[guest2]

Sorry, it will be removing enough tile and cutting the concrete slab to repair as water line at the minimum. Maybe cabinet removal as well. Probably at least 4 to 6 feet . Just guessing.

 

[Snoonyb]

And there isn't the likelihood that there are any additional matching tile, stored somewhere, so, you can replace with a similar product, or stratiglicly remove the tile and create a pattern, or fill to level and use washable throw rugs.

 

[guest2]

No the tile is 35 years old at least and goes through a door way as well

 

[Snoonyb]

The process in locating a well defined leak location, in my practice, was by using a stethoscope, and just removing the obstructions and small floor area above the leak. If that's under a cabinet, that when replaced obstructs the damage from view, then simply patch to a level.

 

[havasu]

To me, you will never be able to match the area. Is there any way to go up and over and terminate that under slab water line?

 

[Ron Van]

To me, you will never be able to match the area. Is there any way to go up and over and terminate that under slab water line?

I had a waterline break under a portion of our house that had a slab and I did exactly what Havasu said. Ran Pex up a wall from the crawlspace into the attic and ran it over the slab area, then down to a point where I could hook it to the destination pipes. Last winter (we had an unusually cold winter for the South) the Pex in the attic froze. I thawed it out and there was no damage but this winter I will be insulating those pipes.

I also put LVP over tile in our house. Some tile was missing and I used floor patch to fill in those areas. I also had to grind some areas where the tile had lippage. We have a crawlspace in much of the area I covered and the tile made a real solid base for the LVP.

 

[Snoonyb]

To me, you will never be able to match the area. Is there any way to go up and over and terminate that under slab water line?

This was discussed in another thread, in which he said the dwelling was 3story, with slab floors.

 

[guest2]

Also the water is on an outside wall. so Pex on or thru an outside wall I don't think can be done. Can it?

Thank you for the continued suggestions. keep them coming.

 

[havasu]

If it is on an outside wall, it surely must also be on an inside wall as well. Just saying...
Drywall patching is less costlier than sawcutting and destroying concrete.

 

[Snoonyb]

In my practice, in CA, the water was brought up thru the slab and the back under the slab to each fixture group, which may be the case in your dwelling.

Most of these were single story, that when converted were behind the stucco, to the attic and the hydrant was from the H/W heater, back into the attic and down.

 

[guest2]

Will a home warranty pay for re-piping?

 

[Snoonyb]

Will a home warranty pay for re-piping?

Likely not, but, you need to ask that of your carrier. Ours wouldn't.

 

[havasu]

Nope. They will pay for the water damage, but not any repair.

 

[guest2]

Anyone have any experience with epoxy spray flooring (like you sew on garage floors) used over ceramic tile?
Not sure if I can get the wife to go for it but I am trying to save money and not remove the tile.

 

[Snoonyb]

Anyone have any experience with epoxy spray flooring (like you sew on garage floors) used over ceramic tile?
Not sure if I can get the wife to go for it but I am trying to save money and not remove the tile.

If you were to consider that, remember that even bread-blasted and polished concrete are porous, which is the key to adhesion, so you'd have some masking and sanding, as prep.

 

[havasu]

My flooring in my garage was professionally done, and it took 3 guys 3 days to finish it. One day just to grind my concrete into a completely new surface, which is necessary for proper bonding.

 

[guest2]

Thanks, I was just concerned about adhesion and it pealing over time as well as the cost compared to redoing the tile floor..