Need suggestions on how to protect door from rain with overhang

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papakevin

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I've recently discovered that the double back door to my sunroom has a water infiltration issue on either side of the door, resulting in some rot of the subfloor inside. The sunroom was constructed over an existing deck by a contractor, so I'm not sure of the root cause. This has been in place for about eight to ten years.

If I were to install a small overhang above the door, it may help to keep some of the water out. When it rains, a lot of water appears to be dripping off the gutter, even though it is not clogged (I've checked.) It has even worn off some of the stain on the top step (you can barely see this in the photo.) Since this has vinyl siding, I'm seeking suggestions on best securing a small overhang to protect it. Do I simply secure a pressure-treated board on top of the vinyl siding? Would this even help? Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Attaching a photo of the door for reference. Thx.
 

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Hi Papakevin,

The first thing to check is if someone caulked the bottom of the siding to the door. Water will magically get behind the siding from above and it has to drain. If not, it'll find its way inside or rot the trim.
The bottom of the siding above doors & windows has to stay free of caulk to drain. (The door has flashing tape to the cladding behind it to stop water from going indoors.)

If you find no caulk, perhaps a flashing was skipped.
There are a couple of items specifically to direct overhead water away from the tops of doors and windows of which I'm aware.

One is a Z-Flashing. The vertical leg tucks under the siding and the flashing extends past the vertical edges of the door (picture below) Don;t caulk the bottom of the flashing. Moisture has to escape.

Another is to install a drip cap (picture below) Sometimes they are called "Cap Flashings".

Both of these can be retrofitted. You might have to cut away some caulk to tuck the pieces in. I'd also suggest recaulking anything that does need cualk with an elastomeric caulk. Vinyl stretches a lot and this type will stretch with it. A couple of easy to use ones that adhere very well is PPG Top Gun 300xi and 400xi. Big Stretch by Sashco is another, but it's rather runny and hard to control.

Paul
 

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PJB12 said:
I'd also suggest recaulking anything that does need cualk with an elastomeric caulk. Vinyl stretches a lot and this type will stretch with it. A couple of easy to use ones that adhere very well is PPG Top Gun 300xi and 400xi. Big Stretch by Sashco is another, but it's rather runny and hard to control.
Click to expand...
Paul appreciate your help, and explaination. Curious if you would recommend Solar Seal 900, for this type of job.
 
Graybeard said:
Paul appreciate your help, and explaination. Curious if you would recommend Solar Seal 900, for this type of job.
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Hi Greybeard,
Some of the guys who worked for me requested & used Solar Seal 900. The use was conduit and open bus penetrations in masonry & concrete. They liked using it. The joints looked very good and flexed well. It's very waterproof.

It sure was difficult to remove when cured, indicating that it holds on quite well.


Me? It's solvent based. I'm not keen on the VOCs- especially xylene. It also has cumene, another thing I don't want to breathe. (And cumene smells like gasoline.)
But outside, do the VOCs much matter? (Probably since you're right next to it while it off-gasses.)

And, tooling is harder with solvent based products. Instead of a water wetted finger or tool, you have to use a solvent wetted tool. This makes it a bit tedious. Clean up of mistakes is a little harder. But, that is just me. Others don't mind.

Attached is the SDS for Solar Seal 900 to help you decide if you want to use it. This SDS is from my files, so there may be a newer one available.

Paul
 

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Those stairs can't possibly be right.

Pretty sure you are required to have a landing there by code.

And the landing would normally be about 6" below the sill.
And yes, an awning or storm doors would be a good idea
 

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PJB12 said:
Hi Papakevin,

The first thing to check is if someone caulked the bottom of the siding to the door. Water will magically get behind the siding from above and it has to drain. If not, it'll find its way inside or rot the trim.
The bottom of the siding above doors & windows has to stay free of caulk to drain. (The door has flashing tape to the cladding behind it to stop water from going indoors.)

If you find no caulk, perhaps a flashing was skipped.
There are a couple of items specifically to direct overhead water away from the tops of doors and windows of which I'm aware.

One is a Z-Flashing. The vertical leg tucks under the siding and the flashing extends past the vertical edges of the door (picture below) Don;t caulk the bottom of the flashing. Moisture has to escape.

Another is to install a drip cap (picture below) Sometimes they are called "Cap Flashings".

Both of these can be retrofitted. You might have to cut away some caulk to tuck the pieces in. I'd also suggest recaulking anything that does need cualk with an elastomeric caulk. Vinyl stretches a lot and this type will stretch with it. A couple of easy to use ones that adhere very well is PPG Top Gun 300xi and 400xi. Big Stretch by Sashco is another, but it's rather runny and hard to control.

Paul
Click to expand...
Thank you Paul. I'm looking into this today. I appreciate it!
 
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