# patio cover flashing



## ricky01225 (Feb 25, 2017)

I hired a contractor who specializes in patio covers it cost about $12k.  After going through some heavy rain here in NorCal we get water dripping across the entire length of the stucco wall under the patio cover.  Even though it is caulked pretty good the contractor didnt install a flashing on top of it.  Is this something he was suppose to do? Is it code to install a patio cover without flashing? Is this something I can do my self? Who would I call to install if needed? We would have to remove the patio panels to do it? Thanks for all your help!


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## oldognewtrick (Feb 25, 2017)

to House Repair Talk!

Can you provide a pic of the area above and below the cover where it's leaking? Also. how long has the unit been installed? In your installation contract, did it specify that any kind of flashing would be installed?


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## slownsteady (Feb 25, 2017)

Have you tried contacting the installer / contractor? What was the response?


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## kok328 (Feb 25, 2017)

Patio cover?  Is this like a "sunsetter awning"?
Pics would be very helpful.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 25, 2017)

The pitch, how steep, your roof is, will determine if this is a DIY project.

However, on the truly left coast, unless otherwise specified, the labor and installation warranty should be 1yr., the specifics of which will be in your contract.


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

here are some pics and my contract.  the contractor said "waterproof" your stucco and that should solve everything.  then i started calling painters and contractors and they're are like "we dont do that" Then I called a stucco leak specialist and he said you need cut out the stucco 16 inches above install a ledger board onto the framing use a metal z bar flashing and that could cost like $7-$8K.  And now Id don't know what to do...


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## kok328 (Feb 26, 2017)

what type of roofing material is on top of the porch cover?
What do you mean by "not know what to do"?  Do you not understand what the stucco specialist is saying or you don't know how to proceed with what he has told you?
I'm thinking you could install some flashing and catch it with simple gutter material and do a controlled drain of to one side of the porch with a downspout.


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## slownsteady (Feb 26, 2017)

If you're expecting one of us to read your contract and interpret it for you, you should reconsider.

So this $12k contractor said you should go somewhere else to finish his job?????
But I think the stucco contractor was probably right on with the correct fix. However, there may be other ways (cheaper) to tackle the problem, as kok mentioned.
How is the patio cover attached to the house now?


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## Snoonyb (Feb 26, 2017)

Was this permitted and inspected?


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

aluminum duralum


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

yes it was permitted I'm just wondering if I should go back to the contractor and demand the put it in flashing or are we really on our own...


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

I put my contract on here because flashing is not addressed anywhere on here...


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

slownsteady said:


> If you're expecting one of us to read your contract and interpret it for you, you should reconsider.
> 
> So this $12k contractor said you should go somewhere else to finish his job?????
> But I think the stucco contractor was probably right on with the correct fix. However, there may be other ways (cheaper) to tackle the problem, as kok mentioned.
> How is the patio cover attached to the house now?


 
I believe lag nut bolts to the exterior of the house...


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

kok328 said:


> what type of roofing material is on top of the porch cover?
> What do you mean by "not know what to do"? Do you not understand what the stucco specialist is saying or you don't know how to proceed with what he has told you?
> I'm thinking you could install some flashing and catch it with simple gutter material and do a controlled drain of to one side of the porch with a downspout.


what I mean but not knowing what to do is do I water proof the stucco myself, hire a contractor to install the flashing and sue the contractor for the thousands this sounds like it going to cost. or should I just try and do it myself...


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## Snoonyb (Feb 26, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> what I mean but not knowing what to do is do I water proof the stucco myself, hire a contractor to install the flashing and sue the contractor for the thousands this sounds like it going to cost. or should I just try and do it myself...



Before you do that, please post a photo of the roof of the cover from a step ladder.


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

I appreciate everyone's feedback here are the pics...


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## slownsteady (Feb 26, 2017)

As you might have guessed, i would be "asking" the orig contractor to fix the problem. I understand that this doesn't always go smoothly. And I don't know how you and the contractor are getting along. If you are on friendly terms, a reasonable discussion can go a long way. If he blew you off when you asked him about it, you might have to take a firmer stance, including negative reviews where he can see them.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 26, 2017)

I'm going to suggest an approach to the cure; Ask the contractor what the definition of "waterproof" is, with reference to the installation? Does the "caulk" represent "waterproofing", and if not, why not. In continuation, if the "caulk" at the intersection with the stucco represents waterproofing and it has failed, what is to prevent the water from finding its way into the wall through the holes drilled for the lag bolts attaching the ledger.

While this may or not be considered a "walkable" roof, employing a sheet or two of 1/2," plywood an architectural flashing can be installed and properly sealed just under the stucco wrapped 2x element for a couple of hundred.


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> I'm going to suggest an approach to the cure; Ask the contractor what the definition of "waterproof" is, with reference to the installation? Does the "caulk" represent "waterproofing", and if not, why not. In continuation, if the "caulk" at the intersection with the stucco represents waterproofing and it has failed, what is to prevent the water from finding its way into the wall through the holes drilled for the lag bolts attaching the ledger.
> 
> While this may or not be considered a "walkable" roof, employing a sheet or two of 1/2," plywood an architectural flashing can be installed and properly sealed just under the stucco wrapped 2x element for a couple of hundred.


 
couple of hundred sounds great ill just pay for it my self.  but what the heck was the stucco leak guy talking about $7-8k??? huge difference...right?


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## Snoonyb (Feb 26, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> couple of hundred sounds great ill just pay for it my self.  but what the heck was the stucco leak guy talking about $7-8k??? huge difference...right?



Did he see the project or just estimate over the phone?


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## ricky01225 (Feb 26, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Did he see the project or just estimate over the phone?


It was over the phone he said his hourly rate is $90/hr and he was 4 mos out on work...freakin crazy huh?


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## Snoonyb (Feb 26, 2017)

Never-the-less your objective will be better served by having the original contractor complete the "waterproofing" he touts, because the fewer hands debating their individual responsibility, the better.

Murphy's law says, what can go wrong, will.


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## nealtw (Feb 26, 2017)

Who designed this set up, is the there a slope to the roof?


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## ricky01225 (Feb 27, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Who designed this set up, is the there a slope to the roof?


it does have a slope to it. but the problem is not with the patio cover but the fact that since there is no flashing on top of the patio to trap the rain it just soaks in the stucco and drips all the way down the wall which streaks down my windows and walls below my patio cover. also, the water comes out the bottom of the wall which puddles onto my stamped concrete.  I just don't know if installing flashing on a exterior patio cover is code in california or am i just on my own.


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## nealtw (Feb 27, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> it does have a slope to it. but the problem is not with the patio cover but the fact that since there is no flashing on top of the patio to trap the rain it just soaks in the stucco and drips all the way down the wall which streaks down my windows and walls below my patio cover. also, the water comes out the bottom of the wall which puddles onto my stamped concrete.  I just don't know if installing flashing on a exterior patio cover is code in california or am i just on my own.



So if you have a permit and it was inspected, it would be built to code.

The stucco have the roof should have been removed enough to allow a flashing to be placed behind the stucco and redirect water out onto the roof.

When he attached the structure to the house he put holes thru the house wrap  which is now allowing water to get into the structure which is never code.
What you see is annoying, what you can't see is the water getting to the wood in the house causing real damage.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_8qOxDrlY4[/ame]


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## ricky01225 (Feb 27, 2017)

nealtw said:


> So if you have a permit and it was inspected, it would be built to code.
> 
> The stucco have the roof should have been removed enough to allow a flashing to be placed behind the stucco and redirect water out onto the roof.
> 
> ...


now you understand my problem.  what is the best way to fix it?


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## nealtw (Feb 27, 2017)

Like in the video you have to get behind the house wrap with a flashing with something that will stick to the roofing and seal everything.


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## ricky01225 (Feb 27, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Like in the video you have to get behind the house wrap with a flashing with something that will stick to the roofing and seal everything.


look at this picture. it doesn't look like i have room to put it anywhere...


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## nealtw (Feb 27, 2017)

I would be removing the stucco between the roof and that bump that looks like a 2x12 just above that.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 27, 2017)

Neal, this is one of the many "gentrifications" of "architectural" Aluminum patio covers marketed today, and the method of installation seldom if ever requires the breaking of stucco or for that matter the disturbing of the exterior finish.

The contractor was depending upon the wrapped 2x architectural element to deflect water running down the wall away from the caulk joint. What he hadn't budgeted for was the severity of the wind and rain the truly left coast has received.

The vendor for this cover has a stock of aluminum modified "J" flashings, which the contractor could have and now should install, at no charge.


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## ricky01225 (Feb 27, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Neal, this is one of the many "gentrifications" of "architectural" Aluminum patio covers marketed today, and the method of installation seldom if ever requires the breaking of stucco or for that matter the disturbing of the exterior finish.
> 
> The contractor was depending upon the wrapped 2x architectural element to deflect water running down the wall away from the caulk joint. What he hadn't budgeted for was the severity of the wind and rain the truly left coast has received.
> 
> The vendor for this cover has a stock of aluminum modified "J" flashings, which the contractor could have and now should install, at no charge.



thanks for your help...would you have to remove the panels to do this flashing? also how about potential moisture that could be in the wall should i worry about that? the house is only 10 mos built in 2016. or will it dry out if i get this flashing done? thanks!


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## Snoonyb (Feb 27, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> the rain it just soaks in the stucco and drips all the way down the wall which streaks down my windows and walls below my patio cover.



In this particular condition, is all the water on the outside surfaces and if so it is because the caulking has failed or was incorrectly installed, or the wrong product.

Stucco 1st and 2nd coats are a formulation of red label cement and does not absorb water, however the color coat or 3rd, because of the formulation, will absorb some water, and appear wet, but dries readily.



ricky01225 said:


> also, the water comes out the bottom of the wall which puddles onto my stamped concrete.



Are you sure that the water "comes out of the wall", or is just continuing down the surface of the wall and dripping off the weep screed,(which is a metal flashing at the bottom of the stucco, likely not visible, and leaves a gap above the patio slab.)



ricky01225 said:


> I just don't know if installing flashing on a exterior patio cover is code in california or am i just on my own.



It may not "necessarily" be code in the municipality where you are, however, it is certainly not good business practice.

You might take your contract and photos to the building dept. and voice your concerns and if they advise you to take it up with the state contractors license board, at that point DO NOT communicate with the contractor in any than a written form.


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## nealtw (Feb 27, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Are you sure that the water "comes out of the wall", or is just continuing down the surface of the wall and dripping off the weep screed,(which is a metal flashing at the bottom of the stucco, likely not visible, and leaves a gap above the patio slab.)



Weep screed at the bottom to allow water out from behind stucco that doesn't absorb water?


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## Snoonyb (Feb 27, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Weep screed at the bottom to allow water out from behind stucco that doesn't absorb water?



Water penetrates, is not absorb thru, stucco at cracks, which generally appear at the corners of windows and doors or from shrinkage in the mix or displacement of the foundation or as the result of tectonics.

The asphalt impregnated paper under the 1"/20 stucco netting is the weather proofing conduit for any moisture that penetrate the stucco, and is lapped over the weepscreed, conducting the water down where it is than vacated through the weep holes in the weep screed.

The "weep" action is not dissimilar from tearing, in volume, ergo, weepscreed.

Stucco is the weather proofing.


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## nealtw (Feb 27, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Water penetrates, is not absorb thru, stucco at cracks, which generally appear at the corners of windows and doors or from shrinkage in the mix or displacement of the foundation or as the result of tectonics.
> 
> The asphalt impregnated paper under the 1"/20 stucco netting is the weather proofing conduit for any moisture that penetrate the stucco, and is lapped over the weepscreed, conducting the water down where it is than vacated through the weep holes in the weep screed.
> 
> ...



Your are mixing your terms 
Stucco is weather resistant and tar paper is your waterproofing.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 27, 2017)

You need to interpret the information in its overall context.


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## ricky01225 (Feb 28, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Your are mixing your terms
> Stucco is weather resistant and tar paper is your waterproofing.


 
Using the info people on this forum have given me I am going to contact the contractor one more time to install z flashing above my patio cover. I believe this will prevent the rain water from going down the inside and outside of my stucco wall below my patio cover and escaping the weep screed which creates puddles on my new concrete.  I think we are all in agreement this was bad business on his part for knowingly installing a patio cover without metal flashing above. He certainly did not expect the extreme rain fall we received in the last few months as well which luckily let us discover the problem right away.  Or else who knows when we would have found out.  If contacting him doesn't work I will send a demand letter then contact the  ca license board to file a complaint and file a claim against his bond.  Am I missing anything?


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## Snoonyb (Feb 28, 2017)

Installing "Z" bar between the architectural element, is virtually impossible, because of the narrow dimension.

The caulking failed because it was improperly installed, IE. forced into the texture of the stucco.

As I stated before, the most practical solution is to have the contractor install the normal flashing associated with patio covers, however this is my practice, (and I've been doing this for over 40yrs. and do not do warranty work), remove the existing caulk, install an elastomeric caulk, install the modified "J" flashing, caulked between the "J" and the architectural element and where the flashing blends with the cover.

However, as I advise all my customers, find out everything you can about your cover.
IF., your cover has a name and there should be a PDF about the product, from the roll-former, with all the available accessories.

A blanket statement doesn't address post #32.


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## ricky01225 (Mar 1, 2017)

3. Install Rain Flashing
A.
Fasten  rain  flashing  to  the  house  wall  or  the  house  fascia  board  directly 
using #10 screws every 6.
B.
Fasten flashing to patio roof using #8 x 1/2" sheet metal screws at the roof 
panels interloc
k.
C.
Overlap lengths of flashing at least 1 and fasten through to panel interlock. 
D.
Caulk generously all along the attachment to the house


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## Snoonyb (Mar 1, 2017)

Thank you, for taking the steps to consolidate your position.

As far as his statement about waterproofing your stucco. It worked, it put you off onto another tract, but it also got you informed as to the fallacy of that statement.

If you are not clear about this;"Are you sure that the water "comes out of the wall", or is just continuing down the surface of the wall and dripping off the weep screed,(which is a metal flashing at the bottom of the stucco, likely not visible, and leaves a gap above the patio slab.)" you should address it for clarity and there are professional leak detection firm who can and will.

You may also have a problem with the window caulking, that has nothing to do with the patio cover.

Because if you are successful in persuading this contractor to, "do the right thing", you can count on him also asking for a release of liability.


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## slownsteady (Mar 1, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> 3. Install Rain Flashing
> A.
> Fasten  rain  flashing  to  the  house  wall  or  the  house  fascia  board  directly
> using #10 screws every 6.
> ...


With these directions in hand, you have a good case for going to the contractor and asking him to make it right. Don't get tripped up in all the details in this thread, consider it all background info.

This makes a good case for all homeowners to research a product before they hire a contractor to install it. A proper set of expectations on both parties is the best way to stay happy.


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## ricky01225 (Mar 1, 2017)

these are directions and pictures of the duralum patio cover from there website. it says electrical is "not  approved" for this? my contractor installed lights, ran electrial, and installed fan lights in mine...thoughts???


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## nealtw (Mar 1, 2017)

Electrical is covered by code, they are just taking themselves out of the discussion by saying they don't approve it.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 1, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> these are directions and pictures of the duralum patio cover from there website. it says electrical is "not  approved" for this? my contractor installed lights, ran electrial, and installed fan lights in mine...thoughts???



What the mfg. is referring to is the practice of drilling access holes and fixture termination points where a mounting box is recessed within the roll-formed beams, structurally weakening them.

Surface mounting lights and emt should not adversely affect the structure.

However, each of the beams or rafters has a design load and not upgrading those prior to installing a ceiling fan would be questionable. The exception would be spreading the load over two.

Do you have the final building and electrical permits in hand?


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## ricky01225 (Mar 1, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> What the mfg. is referring to is the practice of drilling access holes and fixture termination points where a mounting box is recessed within the roll-formed beams, structurally weakening them.
> 
> Surface mounting lights and emt should not adversely affect the structure.
> 
> ...


i was looking at non insulated patio cover instructions so im good on the electrical.  the insulated instructions still required a flashing installed though.  so i called duralum and asked them if they have flashing available for my patio cover and he said no. they only have it on non insulated patio covers.  so i said well its in the instructions to install and he was shocked so he looked it up and said "your right but we never send flashing with these covers and we sell 30-40 a day I'll give you contractor one have him call me." Ive have called the contractor and left him a message. He needs to install this at no cost to me!  i think with this and water proofing my stucco ill be find.  Im getting cold feet on having someone rip off stucco to install a special flashing and then re-stucco it.  Less penetration in my stucoo wall is the better i think....plus it only drips down below the patio cover when it rains heavy and the stucco gets soaked.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 1, 2017)

Hopefully the contractor, at the urging of the mfg., will "elect", to not charge you, which he has every right too.

From post #32;"Stucco 1st and 2nd coats are a formulation of red label cement and does not absorb water, however the color coat or 3rd, because of the formulation, will absorb some water, and appear wet, but dries readily."

You can submit stucco to torrential rains for a prolonged period and where you then to cut a section you would be loath to find any evidence of absorption greater the 1/4"

You are free to apply an additional water proofing agent, however, you'll also need to reapply the same product on a regular and reoccurring basis, which means someone will need to walk on your cover ever 1-1/2 too 2yrs.

Again, there is not enough distance between the 2X architectural element and the cover to install a "Z" bar.


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Hopefully the contractor, at the urging of the mfg., will "elect", to not charge you, which he has every right too.
> 
> From post #32;"Stucco 1st and 2nd coats are a formulation of red label cement and does not absorb water, however the color coat or 3rd, because of the formulation, will absorb some water, and appear wet, but dries readily."
> 
> ...



Red label cement, is that a brand name or is there something that can be looked up?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 2, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Red label cement, is that a brand name or is there something that can be looked up?



In laymen's terms, it's plastic cement.


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> In laymen's terms, it's plastic cement.



Yeah, that would be crazy glue.plastic cement

So I guess you are talking about some additive that may or may not be in the first two coats of stucco?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 2, 2017)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Mfg-94-lb-Plastic-Cement-0010294000/100317737

See the red label?


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

http://www.sepulveda2.com/catalog_sepulveda/show_product_info.php?product=386

I am not seeing anything about waterproof?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 2, 2017)

nealtw said:


> http://www.sepulveda2.com/catalog_sepulveda/show_product_info.php?product=386
> 
> I am not seeing anything about waterproof?



Read back through the thred and note weather resistant.

You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make it drink.


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## inspectorD (Mar 2, 2017)

nealtw said:


> http://www.sepulveda2.com/catalog_sepulveda/show_product_info.php?product=386
> 
> I am not seeing anything about waterproof?



Think of it as a Latex modified thinset for tile, Additives help to resist the water.
In this case a plastic modifier.

In laymans terms they mixed redguard and mortar...you know , for us simple folks.:help:


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

inspectorD said:


> Think of it as a Latex modified thinset for tile, Additives help to resist the water.
> In this case a plastic modifier.
> 
> In laymans terms they mixed redguard and mortar...you know , for us simple folks.:help:



Plastic as in in pliable for work ability not water proofing.:trophy:


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Read back through the thred and note weather resistant.
> 
> You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make it drink.



I read that the first time, maybe you should go back and correct it.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 2, 2017)

inspectorD said:


> Think of it as a Latex modified thinset for tile, Additives help to resist the water.
> In this case a plastic modifier.
> 
> In laymans terms they mixed redguard and mortar...you know , for us simple folks.:help:



Actually that is not the method I learned and have practiced for 40+yrs.

I learned the three stage, 17day process and it is based upon red label cement, plaster sand and lime.

Neal should know this, because red label cement is widely used in Canada.

ASTM C150 defines Portland cement as "hydraulic cement (cement that not only hardens by reacting with water but also forms a *water-resistant product*) produced by pulverizing clinkers which consist essentially of hydraulic calcium silicates, usually containing one or more of the forms of calcium sulphate as an inter ground addition.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 2, 2017)

nealtw said:


> I read that the first time, maybe you should go back and correct it.



Sorry, no sale.

What you think I should correct, is something you interpreted, out of context.


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Sorry, no sale.
> 
> What you think I should correct, is something you interpreted, out of context.



I do believe if there was waterproof stucco, it would be advertised as such.

Correct me if you can


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## inspectorD (Mar 2, 2017)

nealtw said:


> I do believe if there was waterproof stucco, it would be advertised as such.
> 
> Correct me if you can



It isn't waterproof.. resistant yes. And I fully understand stucco and its pitfalls. If there is any crack,, you have water penetration. The original issue could possibly not even be with the stucco itself, but with a window as mentioned
.... or a small crack directly above that aesthetic bump out.

Lets keep the contest of who is  better to a minimum fellas. I think i'm always right...:rofl: Look how that turned out.

Always learnin...


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

Stucco is known to be a weather resistant building finish, but it is part of a system. In order for the wall to resist water penetration effectively, the system must be properly designed and detailed, then built according to plans.

The main purpose of building paper is to keep water from contacting the substrate and structural support members&#8212;very commonly sheathing like plywood or oriented strand board (OSB and wood or metal studs&#8212;so that these materials stay dry. Metal can rust and wood can rot. Also, wood is prone to expand and contract with changes in moisture, so it&#8217;s essential to keep sheathing dry to provide the plaster with a sound substrate. Minimizing the changes in moisture minimizes the stresses that might be placed on plaster from behind. In addition to structural considerations, excess moisture within a wall creates a potential for mold or mildew inside buildings.

Building paper prevents moisture-related problems in stucco walls. Several industry documents, such as PCA&#8217;s Portland Cement Plaster/Stucco Manual, EB049, ACI&#8217;s Guide to Portland Cement-Based Plaster, and building codes across the country, recommend two layers of paper. During construction, paper can be damaged. Two layers of paper provide greater assurance that water won&#8217;t get to the sheathing or support members. Paper should be lapped like siding, meaning that upper layers are placed over lower layers. This facilitates drainage toward the outside. Where the edges of paper-backed lath meet, connections should be lath-to-lath and paper-to-paper.

Building paper should comply with the current requirements of UU-B-790a, Federal Specifications for Building Paper, Vegetable Fiber (Kraft, Waterproofed, Water Repellent, and Fire Resistant). This specification differentiates weather resistive Kraft papers by types, grades, and styles. Grade D is a water-vapor permeable paper. Grade D paper with a water resistance of 60 minutes (or more) works well for stucco applications, and is often preferred to Grade D paper having the minimum 10-minute resistance required by UU-B-790a.

This argument is just nonsense that takes the discussion away from the fact that there are now holes in the last line of defense (the paper)


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## Snoonyb (Mar 2, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Stucco is known to be a weather resistant building finish, but it is part of a system. In order for the wall to resist water penetration effectively, the system must be properly designed and detailed, then built according to plans.
> 
> The main purpose of building paper is to keep water from contacting the substrate and structural support membersvery commonly sheathing like plywood or oriented strand board (OSB and wood or metal studsso that these materials stay dry. Metal can rust and wood can rot. Also, wood is prone to expand and contract with changes in moisture, so its essential to keep sheathing dry to provide the plaster with a sound substrate. Minimizing the changes in moisture minimizes the stresses that might be placed on plaster from behind. In addition to structural considerations, excess moisture within a wall creates a potential for mold or mildew inside buildings.
> 
> ...



None of which is you point of contention.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 2, 2017)

nealtw said:


> I do believe if there was waterproof stucco, it would be advertised as such.
> 
> Correct me if you can



Look up tex-e-coat.


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## nealtw (Mar 2, 2017)

https://www.google.ca/search?q=tex-...ved=0ahUKEwjm0silw7nSAhUEzWMKHXG_DccQ_AUIBigB


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## Snoonyb (Mar 3, 2017)

The product has evolved from tex-a-coat to tex coat and is no longer advertised as waterproof, just a lifetime warranty.


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## nealtw (Mar 3, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> The product has evolved from tex-a-coat to tex coat and is no longer advertised as waterproof, just a lifetime warranty.



We had a problem here that the news called *leaky condo*, hundreds of buildings built with waterproof stucco, the cost to repair these buildings was often more than a condo was worth and many people lost a lot of money. All the home warranty companies just went broke and left people on their own.


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## ricky01225 (Mar 3, 2017)

nealtw said:


> We had a problem here that the news called *leaky condo*, hundreds of buildings built with waterproof stucco, the cost to repair these buildings was often more than a condo was worth and many people lost a lot of money. All the home warranty companies just went broke and left people on their own.


so i talked to a sherwin williams rep and he recommended loxon for wind driven rains and it has a 10 yr warranty Im getting a painter out next week for a quote..


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## nealtw (Mar 3, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> so i talked to a sherwin williams rep and he recommended loxon for wind driven rains and it has a 10 yr warranty Im getting a painter out next week for a quote..



It's good, then you will at least know where the water is coming from if you still get leaks. Have your painter check caulking around the windows.
If you get flashing, it wants to be treated like a solid surface deck.
In a heavy rain water can build up and be sitting against the wall so you need a flexible flashing that is glued to the wall and the roof.

Then if you see any problem after that get after it sooner better than later.


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## nealtw (Mar 3, 2017)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leaky_condo_crisis


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## Snoonyb (Mar 3, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> so i talked to a sherwin williams rep and he recommended loxon for wind driven rains and it has a 10 yr warranty Im getting a painter out next week for a quote..



Which of the numerous LOXON products?


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## ricky01225 (Mar 3, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Which of the numerous LOXON products?


 
 Loxon XP is the name of it. Any buddy ever use this? Recommended way to apply it or prep before applying?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 3, 2017)

ricky01225 said:


> Loxon XP is the name of it. Any buddy ever use this? Recommended way to apply it or prep before applying?



The first sentence will be an indicator of the area you'll need to cover and the specifications should give you a yardstick to the products durability when applied to stucco; http://www.buildsite.com/pdf/sherwi...ng-System-A24-Series-Product-Data-1340290.pdf

Is this paint contractor a referral from Sherwin Williams?

If so, obtain other estimates from independent commercial paint contractors, as well as from masonry contractors, whom by the way, also waterproof their products.


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## ricky01225 (Mar 3, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> The first sentence will be an indicator of the area you'll need to cover and the specifications should give you a yardstick to the products durability when applied to stucco; http://www.buildsite.com/pdf/sherwi...ng-System-A24-Series-Product-Data-1340290.pdf
> 
> Is this paint contractor a referral from Sherwin Williams?
> 
> If so, obtain other estimates from independent commercial paint contractors, as well as from masonry contractors, whom by the way, also waterproof their products.


 I got referred to him by the painting company because they didn't know what to recommend.  I will get 3 buds.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 4, 2017)

Good Idea.

The referral could be a general referral, or it could be a friend or relative. It's how the system works, or you could have been referred to the yellow pages, a friend or neighbor.

This is a resource that I use for specialty I don't do myself;http://www.thebluebook.com/search.h...archTerm=Waterproofing+Contractors&class=4660

They are self policing.

You can change the search terms to Commercial Painting, or Masonry or call DUNN EDWARDS, or KELLEY MOORE.

Be practical with what you are asking. Because LOXON is a high-build product, if there are pin holes will my wall appear spotty when wet. Do you really need to do the whole wall both above and below the cover, or just the 2" area above the flashing.

Back to what both Neal and I have mentioned, the potential leaking of water into the wall cavity from a failure of the windows to have been properly caulked and sealed.

This would be the responsibility of the builder to correct, and needs to be ascertained and addressed before you attempt to take any steps which may void any warranty.


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## ricky01225 (Mar 5, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Good Idea.
> 
> The referral could be a general referral, or it could be a friend or relative. It's how the system works, or you could have been referred to the yellow pages, a friend or neighbor.
> 
> ...


 
good question does the entire wall above the patio cover need to be sealed all the way to the roof?
the patio cover installer is coming on Tuesday to do some water tests because there is water getting inside the wall where they ran their electrical for my light switch to the flood lights since I didn't not want them to run hot.  They may have done some caulking but I don't think they did the proper water proof job of it nor apply any paper flashing to insure if water comes down the wall it doesn't get behind the paper flashing installed by builder.  when it rains hard the water actually drips inside the light switch.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 5, 2017)

I think you know my opinion of aftermarket waterproofing stucco. If not, it's a waste of money and will affect the side-to-side aesthetics of the house, besides not solve the other issues, IE. one wall displays wet and an adjacent wall displays dry.

Have the contractor address your growing list of concerns, install the flashing and agree to return to do a water test after a reasonable caulk set time of no more than a week.


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## mabloodhound (Mar 16, 2017)

I'm late to this thread but your plan AND detailed description of the flashing installation should solve your problem.  No matter the country location, flashing should ALWAYS be installed at a joint like this.  Just caulking is not the answer.  And any good contractor knows this.


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## VanMark (Mar 16, 2017)

There is no doubt in my mind that this is the contractors fault. Surely its not the first time he has ever run into this.No amount of caulking would ever fix your problem. Not in the long run anyways. There hardly looks like there is any pitch on the roof and someone has tried to silicone the seams.


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