# Best way to cut 45 degree end joints



## jmc0319 (Oct 18, 2013)

Am going to make some small boxes that I want to miter the ends. I would love to know what everyone thinks the best way to do that is?


----------



## kok328 (Oct 19, 2013)

I'd use a chop saw or a circular saw with the lines marked with a speed square.
If all else fails, you can go old-school and use a simple miter box.


----------



## jmc0319 (Oct 19, 2013)

kok328 said:
			
		

> I'd use a chop saw or a circular saw with the lines marked with a speed square. If all else fails, you can go old-school and use a simple miter box.


Thanks. I use my chop saw for everything and was wondering if there was a better way.  Kind of glad you said chop saw. Thanks


----------



## PangioneDevelopers (Oct 19, 2013)

Electric chop saw for sure


----------



## drewdin (Oct 26, 2013)

Not sure if this was part of the question but make sure you leave the cuts a bit longer than expected and cut them down to fit perfect. I always tend to cut things too short and have to get more wood.


----------



## mako1 (Aug 5, 2014)

Use a chop saw and some stops for the length .That way you don't have to worry about the pieces being a little off or cutting them long and creeping up on them.


----------



## beachguy005 (Aug 5, 2014)

If you're using a chop saw you're going to get a better job with a new blade that has more teeth for a finer cut.

Here's a couple more tips.

http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Cleaner-Cuts-with-a-Miter-Saw-7381.aspx


----------



## Jungle (Aug 5, 2014)

Small boxes just use your circular saw with the angle adjust with a ledge. Miter box is also good. Chop saw, not so much..


----------



## nealtw (Aug 5, 2014)

Jungle said:


> Small boxes just use your circular saw with the angle adjust with a ledge. Miter box is also good. Chop saw, not so much..



That's what chop saws or miter saws were made for.


----------



## beachguy005 (Aug 6, 2014)

Jungle said:


> Small boxes just use your circular saw with the angle adjust with a ledge. ..




You may as well be telling him to use a chain saw.


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 6, 2014)

I just wanted to close this out. I built a small miter jig for my table saw. I used an 80 TPI blade and have made many boxes so far. All worked great. Thanks for the input. 


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## slownsteady (Aug 6, 2014)

I'd like to see a picture of your jig. May want to make something similar.


----------



## Jungle (Aug 6, 2014)

beachguy005 said:


> You may as well be telling him to use a chain saw.



Not true you can use a new blade or a finished blade. I have gotten perfect result with a circular saw. Fine for small jobs.


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 6, 2014)

Here's a picture of the 45 table saw jig for small pieces. I used maple scraps for the runners. I also included a picture of a spline jig I use for splines in small boxes. Lastly I included a picture of one of the boxes I made.  





Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## nealtw (Aug 6, 2014)

You are doing fine work.


----------



## inspectorD (Aug 6, 2014)

Yup, Nice job!! :beer:


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks Neal and Inspector


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 6, 2014)

Not to be obnoxious but here is a quick video. It is actually a music box for my granddaughter that will be born in November. Also made a chess table. 



Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## nealtw (Aug 6, 2014)

I really like the home made jigs, drives me nuts when I see woodworkers buying jigs.


----------



## elbo (Aug 7, 2014)

I would use a router for both safety and accuracy


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 7, 2014)

I think using a table saw set on 45 and a jig like I made for small box pieces is far safer than a router. What am I missing?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## mako1 (Aug 8, 2014)

A mitre saw and a table saw are made for making thru cuts.A router is not.IMHO it would be the worst tool for the job


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 8, 2014)

That's what I thought. Thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## elbo (Aug 9, 2014)

nope, done it a thousand times. I got the reccomendation from a article in "Fine Woodworking Magazine"


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 9, 2014)

Thanks but I will stick to my table saw a small parts sled I made. I like my fingers too much. I love my router table but not for miter cuts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## slownsteady (Aug 9, 2014)

elbo said:


> nope, done it a thousand times. I got the reccomendation from a article in "Fine Woodworking Magazine"



Can you explain a little more without rewriting the whole article?


----------



## elbo (Aug 10, 2014)

It's done by using wood wider than the total height of the box. make your rabbet for the bottom  (and top, if you need to cut the box for a matching top ), route the 45's on the end grain, then cut it to the size you need  ( the largest dimension ) and route that 45, rip the piece to size and glue
the 45 degree router bit is dead on and all cuts are absolute accurate
If you want the grain vertical, it's even easier 
I wish I could post a video to show how easy it is, but my explaination will have to suffice


----------



## elbo (Aug 10, 2014)

I forgot to mention that end grain glue joints are weaker than #### so, you'll have to reinforce the joint with whatever method you choose


----------



## inspectorD (Aug 10, 2014)

It is a different way to do it... but it does work well.
If this is what you are talking about.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbJszKqyfBA[/ame]


----------



## nealtw (Aug 11, 2014)

Some people do everything they can with the router, others not so much. It come down to what ever you feel is working for you and you can do it safely.


----------



## elbo (Aug 11, 2014)

I have a lock miter bit but never use it because it is a bear to get it right. I use a regular 45 deg. bit and reinforce the joint with a tiny (tooth pick ) that disappears when the box is sanded , stained , and finished. On the larger boxes, I reinforce with either biscuits or dowels both hidden 
The only reason I use the router for small boxes is that a spinning 10 inch saw blade for small work scares me for both kick back and /or amputation


----------



## nealtw (Aug 11, 2014)

elbo said:


> I have a lock miter bit but never use it because it is a bear to get it right. I use a regular 45 deg. bit and reinforce the joint with a tiny (tooth pick ) that disappears when the box is sanded , stained , and finished. On the larger boxes, I reinforce with either biscuits or dowels both hidden
> The only reason I use the router for small boxes is that a spinning 10 inch saw blade for small work scares me for both kick back and /or amputation



But that is why you have so many spare fingers.:rofl:


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 11, 2014)

"The only reason I use the router for small boxes is that a spinning 10 inch saw blade for small work scares me for both kick back and /or amputation"

This is exactly why I use the sled I made. Works perfectly. Extremely safe. Different strokes for different folks they say. 


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## jmc0319 (Aug 11, 2014)

Elbo - I would actually love to see a video of you doing this. I think I would have a hard time getting the four lengths right


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


----------



## elbo (Aug 12, 2014)

Sorry, no videos, but,
If you have a problem with getting the lengths right, try this:
  glue several boards together, the length you need side by side, or 1 wide board with a sacrificial board on both sides, cut your 45's across the end grains, then rip the width you need. 
You can do this with either a table saw, radial arm , or router


----------

