# Basement BR wall q



## cgarcia6445 (Apr 18, 2017)

Our basement bathroom renovation is up and going. 
This is it after removing the previously placed tiles walls. 
The rear wall as you can see has hoise wrap just over the foundation wall. What used to be there were make shift 1x4 boards masonry nailed to the foundation and cement board attached to that, seemed strange.  I too or bottom plate on this wall. 
The toilet is placed so that there is very little room. 
I can put 2x4s in lieu of the 1x4s that they used no problem. 

My main Q is should I use anything else for a barrier as this tyvec is pretty shredded. 
Seal the concreate wall and 6mil under the cement board?
This was a home built in 86 in NV.


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## nealtw (Apr 18, 2017)

So decision time 
There is doing it right or just doing it.
Maybe right isn't the right word. the way we would do that is build a 2x4 wall 1 inch away from the foundation. That assures that wood does not touch concrete and allow for bumps in the concrete wall so you end up with a straight wall that you can insulate. And we would move the toilet.

So with out moving the toilet you might just glue up 1 1/2" foam board and add cement board behind the tile and use green board for the rest.

Or.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iM7DMgS4BrU[/ame]


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## cgarcia6445 (Apr 19, 2017)

nealtw said:


> So decision time
> There is doing it right or just doing it.
> Maybe right isn't the right word. the way we would do that is build a 2x4 wall 1 inch away from the foundation. That assures that wood does not touch concrete and allow for bumps in the concrete wall so you end up with a straight wall that you can insulate. And we would move the toilet.
> 
> ...



Thanks! 
Moving the toilet would be one thing, but also would need to move the shower drain in too I would think. Right?


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## nealtw (Apr 19, 2017)

If you are using a plastic shower base yes.
Should be easy digging to expose the trap if if you wanted to move it


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## nealtw (Apr 19, 2017)

I have built the wall and left a cubby for the toilet to sit in, you loose some insulation. Not so bad if the cubby is lower than the frost line outside


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## cgarcia6445 (Apr 19, 2017)

Does the house wrap need to be over the cement? It is pretty tattered. Should I replace it?


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## nealtw (Apr 19, 2017)

No take it down, air and moisture can pass thru it and that is what you want to stop.
You want to prevent warm moist air from coming into contact with any cold surface on the far side of the insulation.
With a constructed wall we insulate and cover that with 6 mil poly.
If you were using foam board you can just tape the joints for the same effect.


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## cgarcia6445 (Apr 19, 2017)

nealtw said:


> No take it down, air and moisture can pass thru it and that is what you want to stop.
> You want to prevent warm moist air from coming into contact with any cold surface on the far side of the insulation.
> With a constructed wall we insulate and cover that with 6 mil poly.
> If you were using foam board you can just tape the joints for the same effect.



Sounds good. Reading around that's what I was learning. I was confused by it being there.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 19, 2017)

Instead of losing 3.5" using wood studs, you can save 2" in lost space by using 1-5/8" steel studs.


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## nealtw (Apr 19, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Instead of losing 3.5" using wood studs, you can save 2" in lost space by using 1-5/8" steel studs.



I was suggesting 2 1/2 inches but he could use 2x2 and that would just be 1 1/2"


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## Snoonyb (Apr 19, 2017)

"that is build a 2x4 wall"

Those will work, if you can keep them from bowing and twisting, which does not occur with steel.


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