# Fixing the supports of a roof overhang



## swimmer_spe (Sep 21, 2017)

I have an overhang at my front door. It is secured to the side of my house and held up by 4 4x4 posts. 
The base of those posts sit on metal supports: (Similar to the bottom left ones)
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/galvanized-steel-post-support-pole-anchor_60335629738.html

The bottom of the posts are rotting. It extends about 6 inches up, visually inspected. I did not poke and prod to see how bad it really is. It seems all 4 are rotten.

2 of the posts are located where I plan to cover the ground with paving stones. 

Currently the steps are concrete, and are not right up to the house.

Next year, I plan to redo the driveway. It looks like I am doing this at the same time.

How would I be able to support the roofed overhang while I replace those supports and the steps?

The roof overhang is about 6'x 6'


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## nealtw (Sep 21, 2017)

You will have to post a picture so we can see how it constructed with beams etc.


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 21, 2017)

nealtw said:


> You will have to post a picture so we can see how it constructed with beams etc.



The underside is covered so, even I do not know what it is constructed with.


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## nealtw (Sep 21, 2017)

That is why I want to see it.


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 21, 2017)

nealtw said:


> That is why I want to see it.



I had to replace 1 facia last summer. It was a 1x4. The rafter was a 2x4. The peak is about 2 feet higher than the underside.


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## slownsteady (Sep 21, 2017)

Generally speaking, you would use temporary posts to jack up the porch roof. Often, a beam is slipped under the roof so that the temp posts can be put further out of the way to allow working room.


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## Sparky617 (Sep 21, 2017)

Any number of ways to do it based on the design of the porch.  Here are some pictures of how can be done.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=temporary+support+for+a+porch+roof+images&id=142C002EB463E23B1A6C1BBBEAEFB7D8394EEFA4&FORM=IQFRBA


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## slownsteady (Sep 21, 2017)

...no link to the pictures


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## Sparky617 (Sep 21, 2017)

slownsteady said:


> ...no link to the pictures



I had to edit, it was web search results and I needed to use the link icon, not image icon.  It works for me now.


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## nealtw (Sep 21, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> I had to replace 1 facia last summer. It was a 1x4. The rafter was a 2x4. The peak is about 2 feet higher than the underside.



I don't remember and your old photos are not coming up. But if you have a gable that the ends are over the posts, There should be something between the post and the house, that the middle rafters are sitting on.


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 21, 2017)

nealtw said:


> I don't remember and your old photos are not coming up. But if you have a gable that the ends are over the posts, There should be something between the post and the house, that the middle rafters are sitting on.



I never took a picture of that. It was such a small job, I saw no need to.


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## nealtw (Sep 21, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> I never took a picture of that. It was such a small job, I saw no need to.



I would measure from deck to underside and add 1/4" and put cut and put a stud between the house and the  post just close to the post And tap that in and see if it will take the weight off the post. Pull any nails at the bottom of the post first.


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 24, 2017)

A picture is worth a thousand words. A video is worth a thousand pictures.

https://www.facebook.com/micheal.artindale/videos/10159338512960287/


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## nealtw (Sep 24, 2017)

Space between steps and house. Slide in foam board leaving 4" one each side and top. Build a form on each side and fill with concrete.

There is some kind of beam on each side sitting on the posts. You should be able to support one side at a time. 
I would form up steps toward the garage door on the side of the steps.


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## Sparky617 (Sep 25, 2017)

Adding to Neal's advice, I would bring the concrete footer up to grade and then use one of the brackets you showed on the front right post to get the end of the post out of the dirt.  This will make your posts last longer.

Are the steps built in place or a precast unit?  If a precast unit you should be able to move them back, cast in place it may be impossible to move them back.  I like Neal's solution for filling the gap if you can't move them.


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## nealtw (Sep 25, 2017)

Or we can design a breezeway roof that would include this roof.


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## Sparky617 (Sep 25, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Or we can design a breezeway roof that would include this roof.




Nothing like having covered access between the house and the new garage for those rainy days and in winter.


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 25, 2017)

Sparky617 said:


> Adding to Neal's advice, I would bring the concrete footer up to grade and then use one of the brackets you showed on the front right post to get the end of the post out of the dirt.  This will make your posts last longer.
> 
> Are the steps built in place or a precast unit?  If a precast unit you should be able to move them back, cast in place it may be impossible to move them back.  I like Neal's solution for filling the gap if you can't move them.



The steps are precast.

How do I move it without damaging it?

For the post footers, how can I make it so that it does not look like an eyesore either?


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 25, 2017)

Sparky617 said:


> Nothing like having covered access between the house and the new garage for those rainy days and in winter.



I'd rather not do that kind of work. The garage is not far enough back from the steps to make doing that a reasonable thing.


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## Sparky617 (Sep 25, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> The steps are precast.
> 
> How do I move it without damaging it?
> 
> For the post footers, how can I make it so that it does not look like an eyesore either?



Usually precast stairs are set on a footer.  They aren't usually fastened to the footers and are held in place only by gravity.  You can probably pry them back with a digging iron.  You may want to put a block of wood between the bar and the steps.

With the footers I'd form them up to make them a neat square or use a piece of sono-tube to make them a nice round shape.  They don't need to come up too high from grade.


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 25, 2017)

Sparky617 said:


> Usually precast stairs are set on a footer.  They aren't usually fastened to the footers and are held in place only by gravity.  You can probably pry them back with a digging iron.  You may want to put a block of wood between the bar and the steps.
> 
> With the footers I'd form them up to make them a neat square or use a piece of sono-tube to make them a nice round shape.  They don't need to come up too high from grade.



Where do I pry them from? Pat of me thinks "I have a chain and a 4x4 truck... I can move it."

How heavy would the stairs be? They look hollow.


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## Sparky617 (Sep 25, 2017)

They are typically hollow, but still weigh several hundred pounds.  How do you propose chaining it and pull it into the wall?  You can't push a chain or a rope.  You'd need to pull them.

Drive the digging iron into the ground in front of the steps, insert a block of wood between the step and the digging iron and push the digging iron towards the steps inching them inward.  Alternate between sides of the steps or have a friend help and push from both sides at the same time.


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## nealtw (Sep 25, 2017)

The gap seems to be the norm.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXOVU8485p0[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdfP36fudP0[/ame]


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 25, 2017)

nealtw said:


> The gap seems to be the norm.



So, leave it?  Part of me wants to get some expanding foam, put it around the edges to seal it, then trim it and paint it to match the stairs.


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## nealtw (Sep 25, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> So, leave it?  Part of me wants to get some expanding foam, put it around the edges to seal it, then trim it and paint it to match the stairs.



Maybe just a 3' wide plywood or something screwed down over the gap. small enough so you would not step on it.


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## swimmer_spe (Sep 25, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Maybe just a 3' wide plywood or something screwed down over the gap. small enough so you would not step on it.



Screwed to the concrete?


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## Sparky617 (Sep 25, 2017)

I'd move it closer, and add a block between the house and the steps to close the gap so you don't lose your keys down the hole. Use pressure treated wood.


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## nealtw (Sep 25, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> Screwed to the concrete?



Yes.............:trophy:Tapcon screws
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.papc-14x2-14p-tapcon-concret-scr.1000403288.html?autoSuggest=pip


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