# Window framing question



## hotrodjohn71 (Jan 7, 2016)

Hello group.
I have window framing question. I am building some walls (non load bearing) on a covered patio. I have some dual paned non framed windows I want to install. These windows are just 2 pieces of glass with a hollow square  aluminum spacer between that runs the edges but not making an outer, frame and held together by silicone. These windows came from a sun room.
 My question regarding the installation of these windows into the wall frame is what should I use as far as sealing the window edges as they are installed into the wall frame, and approximately how much gap should I leave between the windows and the wall frame I will be building. These window units are large, approximately 80" x 35".
Thanks


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## nealtw (Jan 7, 2016)

Welcome to the site
I would start with a frame for the windows but it will be tricky to protect it from water sitting on the bottom of the frame.


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## slownsteady (Jan 7, 2016)

I think I might treat them like glass blocks. They have a special adhesive (mortar?) for them. 
Framing them first also sounds good but you will have to secure them to the frame somehow anyway. Maybe a PVC shoe molding...


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## Snoonyb (Jan 8, 2016)

hotrodjohn71 said:


> Hello group.
> I have window framing question. I am building some walls (non load bearing) on a covered patio. I have some dual paned non framed windows I want to install. These windows are just 2 pieces of glass with a hollow square  aluminum spacer between that runs the edges but not making an outer, frame and held together by silicone. These windows came from a sun room.
> My question regarding the installation of these windows into the wall frame is what should I use as far as sealing the window edges as they are installed into the wall frame, and approximately how much gap should I leave between the windows and the wall frame I will be building. These window units are large, approximately 80" x 35".
> Thanks



Will you be installing them as 80" width and 35" height, or the opposite?

I'd install the typical 12 degree redwood window sil and wood stops to retain.

As for the rough, i'd leave no more than a 1/4" gap, total.


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## hotrodjohn71 (Jan 8, 2016)

Thank you for a great welcome!
Im planning to mount the windows with the longer side vertical and short side horizontal. 

In my mind I originally thought to mount the windows centered in the wall frame (the walls are  2x6 lumber) and on the inside use a wood blocking on all 4 sides to retain the window  , possibly something like 2x2 or 1x2 inch, and on the outside use blocking on all 4 Sides just like inside but with the window sill having a slight bevel to deliver rain  water away. If all of that works, then there's the issue of sealing them. I like the suggestion of the sealant for the glass block windows. Would this be put all around the edges of the window in the 1/4" gaps between the window and wall frame before the blocking is installed? What about a bead of clear silicone around all of the outside edges after the blocking is installed. Should all of the blocking be redwood ?
Thanks.


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## bud16415 (Jan 8, 2016)

I would do the whole thing with PVC lumber.


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## Snoonyb (Jan 8, 2016)

hotrodjohn71 said:


> Thank you for a great welcome!
> Im planning to mount the windows with the longer side vertical and short side horizontal.



So, your intended method of installation is 35" width and 80" height?

Are you aware that non tempered glazing must be installed higher than 18" above the floor? 



hotrodjohn71 said:


> In my mind I originally thought to mount the windows centered in the wall frame (the walls are  2x6 lumber) and on the inside use a wood blocking on all 4 sides to retain the window  , possibly 2x4 or 1x2 inch, and on the outside use blocking on all 4 Sides just like inside but with the window sill having a slight bevel to deliver rain  water away. If all of that works, then there's the issue of sealing them. I like the suggestion of the sealant for the glass block windows. Would this be put all around the edges of the window in the 1/4" gaps between the window and wall frame before the blocking is installed? What about a bead of clear silicone around all of the outside edges after the blocking is installed. Should all of the blocking be redwood ?
> Thanks.



There are a couple of different sealers used around glass block, the cementatious is an acrylic modified grout to make it water resistant and if incorrectly mixed will crack in the drying process, defeating the "water resistance."

When you say "blocking," are you referring to glass, clay or cement blocks, or are referring to lengths of lumber and using lumber for stops?

Silicone is best used 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.

Use polyseamseal, sold by LOCKTITE, it works with you dampened finger.


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## nealtw (Jan 8, 2016)

Just by the size your glass sounds like it was at one time in a sliding glass door. You might be able to find markings for safety glass.. The safety side goes in. other than that I would not use them.


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## hotrodjohn71 (Jan 8, 2016)

Thanks for your replies. The glass is tempered. I found this out when I cracked one and it broke into a million tiny pieces. All of these dual pane windows came out of a solarium (sun room) on my folks house that they had special built but took down some years ago.
Thanks for the info about the 18" rule on non tempered glass, but knowing this glass is tempered, I think I will be okay on that part. Regarding my term 'blocking', I appologize, I really did mean wood stops (lengths of lumber on the interior and exterior to retain the window in the wall frame). And yes, I meant 35" width and 80" height.
Thank you for bearing with my lack of terminology.

Thank you for the tip on silicone  I will look into the LOCTITE sealant


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## nealtw (Jan 8, 2016)

If you can use them you may want to find a door outfit and have the build a could exterior door frames for them.


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## Snoonyb (Jan 8, 2016)

hotrodjohn71 said:


> Thanks for your replies. The glass is tempered. I found this out when I cracked one and it broke into a million tiny pieces. All of these dual pane windows came out of a solarium (sun room) on my folks house that they had special built but took down some years ago.
> Thanks for the info about the 18" rule on non tempered glass, but knowing this glass is tempered, I think I will be okay on that part. Regarding my term 'blocking', I appologize, I really did mean wood stops (lengths of lumber on the interior and exterior to retain the window in the wall frame). And yes, I meant 35" width and 80" height.
> Thank you for bearing with my lack of terminology.



The sites purpose is engendered in and as a learning experience, for which we can all benefit.

As mentioned, your simplest solution for installing the windows is with and exterior door frame, however finding them common to 2X6 framing, if not a local practice may be difficult.

Developing them yourself, from standard available wood products, is fairly simple.


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## hotrodjohn71 (Nov 8, 2017)

Bud16415, is the PVC lumber the plastic type wood like trex deck wood is made of?


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## bud16415 (Nov 8, 2017)

hotrodjohn71 said:


> Bud16415, is the PVC lumber the plastic type wood like trex deck wood is made of?




It is similar. Cuts and works much like wood but is very stable and totally water proof.


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## nealtw (Nov 8, 2017)

Not cheap.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-1-in-x-7-1-4-in-x-8-ft-White-PVC-Trim-2-Pack-827000202/302650634


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## Snoonyb (Nov 8, 2017)

Here are a couple more, just click on "products" for the variety;

https://azek.com/resources/installation-help
https://timbertech.com


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