# Building a deck for my trailer



## swimmer_spe (Apr 4, 2017)

I have a camping trailer that is at a lake. I would like to build a deck for it. Eventually I would like to close it in.

Right now, I plan to have a deck that is 8x8. It would only be a foot off the ground.

I plan on using cement deck blocks.

How far should the be spaced?

I plan on using 1x4 or 1x6 for the deck top. What is the spacing needed for the joists?

Would 2x4s for the frame be good, or do I need to go 2x6s?


----------



## Chris (Apr 4, 2017)

I would do 2x6 for everything. 1x for the top will be flimsy and wont last as long. redwood is great for bugs but doug fir or whatever is local to you for standard lumber has a better structural strength but will need to be painted or stained. Personally I would not use 1x for anything structural. On my deck at my mountain house I used 2x6 DF for everything and painted all four sides before install. I did not go 24 inch spacing which was recomended but 27" to cheat it a bit and it was fine. Mine was about 15 feet wide by 10 feet long. strong and sturdy. I did not use concrete piers, I dug holes and concreted in 4x4 posts because it was cheaper and I believe stronger.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 4, 2017)

Chris said:


> I would do 2x6 for everything. 1x for the top will be flimsy and wont last as long. redwood is great for bugs but doug fir or whatever is local to you for standard lumber has a better structural strength but will need to be painted or stained. Personally I would not use 1x for anything structural. On my deck at my mountain house I used 2x6 DF for everything and painted all four sides before install. I did not go 24 inch spacing which was recomended but 27" to cheat it a bit and it was fine. Mine was about 15 feet wide by 10 feet long. strong and sturdy. I did not use concrete piers, I dug holes and concreted in 4x4 posts because it was cheaper and I believe stronger.



I am in Ontario. We do not have redwood or doug fir. Spruce is common here.

I need to keep it somewhat portable, so columns in the ground is a big no no.

I would rather thinner wood on top and proper spacing than overbuilt.


----------



## bud16415 (Apr 5, 2017)

My deck I built a couple years ago was 12x16 and I recycled another deck I got for free. Posts were 4x4 setting on the cast deck blocks. 3 main beams doubled running the long way 2x10 then joists 2x6 16&#8221; OC then 5/4 decking measures 1x5.5. All PT lumber. I have 12 posts under mine and cross braced the legs and have a 6000 lb hot tub on top. 

If yours is only going to be 1&#8217; off the ground you won&#8217;t need any posts. The cast deck blocks will take a post or a beam directly. 2x6 PT should be good for the whole frame I would think and 5/4 for the deck surface. You can stack your joists on beams like I did or you can use metal hangers to join it all together.


----------



## oldognewtrick (Apr 5, 2017)

Even if you build it out of 1x, it will be to heavy to move it in one piece with out machinery. Build it out of 2x and use deck screws to put it together. When it comes time to move it, disassemble it to a manageable size.


----------



## bud16415 (Apr 5, 2017)

oldognewtrick said:


> Even if you build it out of 1x, it will be to heavy to move it in one piece with out machinery. Build it out of 2x and use deck screws to put it together. When it comes time to move it, disassemble it to a manageable size.



:agree:Great point. I have seen camper decks where the guy builds them at home and hauls them to the campground and sets them. If you want an 8x8 deck making it in two sections 4x8 would be the way to go. They would fit right in a pickup and not be too heavy for a couple guys to handle and could be bolted together at the campgrounds after setting them on your blocks.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 5, 2017)

bud16415 said:


> :agree:Great point. I have seen camper decks where the guy builds them at home and hauls them to the campground and sets them. If you want an 8x8 deck making it in two sections 4x8 would be the way to go. They would fit right in a pickup and not be too heavy for a couple guys to handle and could be bolted together at the campgrounds after setting them on your blocks.




4x8 would work too. I would run the stringers the width, not the length.

I need to be able to level it, so the "post" may only be a foot or less long.

So, under each 4x8 section, how many blocks do I need? How should they be spaced?


----------



## bud16415 (Apr 5, 2017)

The size of the beam determines the spacing of the blocks. If you go with 2x6 I would use 9 blocks 3 rows of 3 the joint between the 2 sections can share a row of blocks. I would do it all with 3&#8221; deck screws for a little deck like that for a camper. Build a frame 4x8 and fill it in 16&#8221; OC and then screw your decking on with 2&#8221; deck screws.


----------



## nealtw (Apr 5, 2017)

If you are building in two pieces you will want to join it on site like it is one. I think it would be just as easy to pre cut all the parts and charge the batteries and build it on site.
I would build it out of treated lumber but even that is not as good as it used to be so before installing the deck boards add 2" wide tar paper to the top of all joists so water does not sit on them.
You will need a block on each corner and if you use the right block you may have shared block in the middle.
You mentioned you may want to do a roof later, then you will want to plan the support for that too.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 5, 2017)

bud16415 said:


> The size of the beam determines the spacing of the blocks. If you go with 2x6 I would use 9 blocks 3 rows of 3 the joint between the 2 sections can share a row of blocks. I would do it all with 3 deck screws for a little deck like that for a camper. Build a frame 4x8 and fill it in 16 OC and then screw your decking on with 2 deck screws.



So, 4 foot spacing?



nealtw said:


> If you are building in two pieces you will want to join it on site like it is one. I think it would be just as easy to pre cut all the parts and charge the batteries and build it on site.
> I would build it out of treated lumber but even that is not as good as it used to be so before installing the deck boards add 2" wide tar paper to the top of all joists so water does not sit on them.
> You will need a block on each corner and if you use the right block you may have shared block in the middle.
> You mentioned you may want to do a roof later, then you will want to plan the support for that too.



Would 4 foot spacing be sufficient for a roof that may have up to 4 feet of snow on it?


----------



## nealtw (Apr 5, 2017)

That has more to do with where you put windows and doors when you build the upper part.
But as long as you have corner blocks you can just add headers if needed when you build the upper part.


----------



## bud16415 (Apr 5, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> Would 4 foot spacing be sufficient for a roof that may have up to 4 feet of snow on it?



Ya but it would be kind of hard walking around with a post every 4 in your house.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 5, 2017)

nealtw said:


> That has more to do with where you put windows and doors when you build the upper part.
> But as long as you have corner blocks you can just add headers if needed when you build the upper part.



For the walls and roof, I plan on making 4x~8 foot wall modular pieces. the 2 4 foot pieces will make up the sides. I figure on having a drop of 2 feet over the 8 foot length so that the lowest point is 6 feet high.



bud16415 said:


> Ya but it would be kind of hard walking around with a post every 4 in your house.



No, the post will just support the deck.
Along the side of the trailer, there will be posts supporting a header to hold up the roof at that end.


----------



## nealtw (Apr 5, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> For the walls and roof, I plan on making 4x~8 foot wall modular pieces. the 2 4 foot pieces will make up the sides. I figure on having a drop of 2 feet over the 8 foot length so that the lowest point is 6 feet high.



Will 8 ft be above the height of the trailer? It's about the snow on the roof and how to deal with it.

If you plan on using this room in the winter, it will need insulation, that will add to the height or subtract from the inside height.
Places way up north here build a pole barn to park the trailer in.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 5, 2017)

nealtw said:


> swimmer_spe said:
> 
> 
> > For the walls and roof, I plan on making 4x~8 foot wall modular pieces. the 2 4 foot pieces will make up the sides. I figure on having a drop of 2 feet over the 8 foot length so that the lowest point is 6 feet high.
> ...


----------



## nealtw (Apr 5, 2017)

So, against the trailer, under the roof of the shed you will need some wall and some way of sealing the two together..
I am assuming you want it to be open from the shed to the trailer so you will want a beam like 2  2x10s to support the high end of the roof.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 5, 2017)

nealtw said:


> So, against the trailer, under the roof of the shed you will need some wall and some way of sealing the two together..
> I am assuming you want it to be open from the shed to the trailer so you will want a beam like 2  2x10s to support the high end of the roof.



... which may be wide enough to fill the gap.

I can build a deck 8 feet wide by length o trailer. My trailer is 21 feet long, so eventually the deck may get to about 20 feet long.

Again, as modular as possible.


----------



## nealtw (Apr 5, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> ... which may be wide enough to fill the gap.
> 
> I can build a deck 8 feet wide by length o trailer. My trailer is 21 feet long, so eventually the deck may get to about 20 feet long.
> 
> Again, as modular as possible.



Actual length will want to consider the shape of the trailer so some sealing can be accomplished at each end. 
As you will need a beam or header on the high end and the low end if you want windows and doors. You would need at least one post against the trailer holding up the beam so finding the best place to put that may change the shape of the deck.

BTW 8 ft deck with a roof at a 6/12 pitch the roof will be about 8' 3" before you allow for overhang.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 5, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Actual length will want to consider the shape of the trailer so some sealing can be accomplished at each end.
> As you will need a beam or header on the high end and the low end if you want windows and doors. You would need at least one post against the trailer holding up the beam so finding the best place to put that may change the shape of the deck.
> 
> BTW 8 ft deck with a roof at a 6/12 pitch the roof will be about 8' 3" before you allow for overhang.



I thought it would be more a 3/12 pitch... basically 1 foot over 4 feet.

For the posts, I will line it up with a post in the deck. As long as it doesn't block a door or window, I am good.

The walls and roof are a "next season" worry.


----------



## nealtw (Apr 5, 2017)

swimmer_spe said:


> I thought it would be more a 3/12 pitch... basically 1 foot over 4 feet.
> 
> For the posts, I will line it up with a post in the deck. As long as it doesn't block a door or window, I am good.
> 
> The walls and roof are a "next season" worry.



Yes you are right , your out side wall wants to go up to 80 inches min. as that is the height of the door so you would like a little more than that.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 5, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Yes you are right , your out side wall wants to go up to 80 inches min. as that is the height of the door so you would like a little more than that.



I plan on putting the door on the side, so it will be closer to the higher side of the roof.


----------



## bud16415 (Apr 6, 2017)

I don&#8217;t think I would try and get a seal between the trailer and the deck and think about making the deck/porch a heated place. Both the deck and trailer are free floating and not connected when winter comes frost will be lifting and moving them. If you want to seal them together it would have to be a flexible boot. If you do that expect a lot of heat loss from the porch. The floor will also have to be insulated.


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 6, 2017)

bud16415 said:


> I dont think I would try and get a seal between the trailer and the deck and think about making the deck/porch a heated place. Both the deck and trailer are free floating and not connected when winter comes frost will be lifting and moving them. If you want to seal them together it would have to be a flexible boot. If you do that expect a lot of heat loss from the porch. The floor will also have to be insulated.



I plan on using the expanding foam. I have seen others use it with good results.

I do not plan to have it toasty warm in a deep freeze, but I plan on being able to take my jacket and hat off there.


----------



## nealtw (Apr 6, 2017)

Just to be clear, I have no experience building these things.


----------



## slownsteady (Apr 6, 2017)

In the course of this thread, the project went from building a small modular deck to building what is essentially a small house. You may want to rethink the 'foundation' idea, because the weight - and your investment in time and materials is going up, up, up.


----------



## nealtw (Apr 6, 2017)

Could be a good idea to put footings in even for jacking points of the trailer, easy to add tie downs also. Take frost out of the discussion.


----------



## Mastercarpenty (Apr 16, 2017)

oldognewtrick said:


> Even if you build it out of 1x, it will be to heavy to move it in one piece with out machinery. Build it out of 2x and use deck screws to put it together. When it comes time to move it, disassemble it to a manageable size.



I've moved many decks and outbuildings all alone by using a lever at an angle over a fulcrum, then moving the lever sideways once it's off the ground. The same can be done with a jack at an angle- as it lifts, it pushes sideways so the deck or building slides over under control. I prefer an old bumper jack for this as a bottle jack and post doesn't like to stay aligned when it tilts and moves over. Simple machines but not power machinery 

Since the OP indicated they may enlarge it someday, I'd use 2X8 doubled bands with 2X6 joists 16"oc and 5/4 decking boards. Strong enough but not overweight and sturdy enough to last through many seasonal moves. 

Phil


----------



## swimmer_spe (Apr 16, 2017)

An update, talking to my local hardware store, they suggest 2x6 for the deck. They will be in 4x8 sections, and the joists will run widthwise.


----------

