# hot water at pressure 125 - what does this say about 13yr hot water heater



## montag (Apr 21, 2013)

Hi all,

I have a tanked hot water heater, 13 years old, that I am thinking is reaching the end of it's useful life, but wanted to get some expert opinion before replacing.

*Current problem we are seeing*
Hot water is venting via a wilkins 1500 valve (graduated screw in type) from the hot water side of the tank, to a pvc pipe and then to outside. It's been doing this for a number of weeks. Currently the wilkins valve is set to 125.

Note that this wilkins is inline with the hot water pipe exiting the tank and is separate from the TPR valve on the side of the tank. I don't know why I have this extra valve. I operated the TPR valve and it is working; vents when I pull it and stops when I release it.

Anyways, since the wilkins is set to 125, is that a high or low pressure for hot water or do I have room to play to alter it to stop this venting? (perhaps dangerous given it's a safety valve). 

And what does this venting and the 125 value say about the health of the hot water heater?

Note that we don't have any complaints about the temperature or pressure of hot water into the house.

*hot water heater details*
50 gallon, tanked
model : PR6 5C NPRT971
State Industries Inc, Ashland City, TN
Original water heater install on new home 1999.

Thanks
mike


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## JoeD (Apr 21, 2013)

put an actual pressure gauge on the system and see what the actual pressure is. Maybe the valve is failing.


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## montag (Apr 21, 2013)

JoeD said:


> put an actual pressure gauge on the system and see what the actual pressure is. Maybe the valve is failing.



Do you mean measure the hot water pressure. How would I that since I am only familiar with the pressure gauges that fit on an outside faucet for the cold water. I guess I could cut in and add a suitable connector to one of the hot water pipes and measure from that.


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## nealtw (Apr 21, 2013)

that type of gauge would work on the tap for the washing machine.


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## montag (Apr 21, 2013)

nealtw said:


> that type of gauge would work on the tap for the washing machine.



That's a great tip. I didn't think of the washing machine connection . Thank you. Just need to a gauge now from hd or lowes.


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## JoeD (Apr 22, 2013)

The cold water should also be at the same pressure. Everything on the system should be at the same pressure. I suspect a failing valve or the TPR would be releasing also.


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## montag (Apr 22, 2013)

JoeD said:


> The cold water should also be at the same pressure. Everything on the system should be at the same pressure. I suspect a failing valve or the TPR would be releasing also.



Thank you JoeD. I'll check the pressure on both hot and cold and post the results.


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## montag (Apr 22, 2013)

I got a basic water pressure test gauge from Lowes (orbit model #91130) and tested both the hot and cold lines for pressure.

With no faucets on or any other items drawing water, *cold is at 98psi *and *hot *(or not so hot since its not really running at the time of test), at *little over 100psi*. So not good. 

Could it be my Pressure Regulator Valve is faulty and not stepping down the pressure from the street? I should also have mentioned that when we have two faucets on at the same time and we get a wining sound from the plumbing. It doesn't bang, just a whine, medium pitch.

I plan to get a second, better test gauge later this week since I don't think I should rely on one test and one gauge. Will get something more robust from a professional plumbers supply place - just can't get there today with work etc.

As for my location, and I only mention this because the Lowes guy asked, am located in Cobb County, suburb of Atlanta and Lowes guy said my pressure should be around 45-50 something.


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## montag (Apr 22, 2013)

Some additional info from my testing. 

With the test gauge attached to the cold line it reads 98psi with no faucets or water being drawn. If I turn on a faucet on the same floor as the gauge, the pressure drops to 40psi. Then turn off the faucet and the pressure climbs back to 98psi and takes about 30-60 seconds.


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## nealtw (Apr 22, 2013)

If you have a pressure reducing valve near the shut off valve you can take that down to about 60lbs and I think Joe is right about replacing the pressure release valve on the water tank.


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## JoeD (Apr 22, 2013)

98 psi is too high. Most fixture will have a max rating of 80 psi and 40 to 60 is sufficient for most homes.
I think if you have a pressure regulator on your main line then it is defective. probably a hole in the diaphragm by the 30 second rise from 40 to 98.


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## montag (Apr 22, 2013)

nealtw said:


> If you have a pressure reducing valve near the shut off valve you can take that down to about 60lbs and I think Joe is right about replacing the pressure release valve on the water tank.



Thanks Neal. Sorry to be dense but do mean replace the TPR valve on the side of the water heater or replace the wilkins valve on the hot water line. I'm thinking you mean the TPR because it should be releasing water with this high pressure problem and it is not. The wilkins valve is doing the release, thankfully. The pipe to the wilkins is warm and I can hear it running and the pipe to the TPR is cold with no running sound.

I do have a pressure reducing valve (cone shaped thing) at the point where water comes into the garage (where the water heater is located). I adjusted it counter clockwise a number of turns and it had very little effect on reducing static pressure. Only went down by 2lbs. Did at least 5 turns so it backed out a distance of 5mm. I'm afraid to back it out any more.


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## montag (Apr 22, 2013)

JoeD said:


> 98 psi is too high. Most fixture will have a max rating of 80 psi and 40 to 60 is sufficient for most homes.
> I think if you have a pressure regulator on your main line then it is defective. probably a hole in the diaphragm by the 30 second rise from 40 to 98.



I think you are right Joe. The pressure regulator is not working and has to be replaced. A job for this weekend.


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## oldognewtrick (Apr 22, 2013)

montag said:


> Thanks Neal. Sorry to be dense but do mean replace the TPR valve on the side of the water heater or replace the wilkins valve on the hot water line. I'm thinking you mean the TPR because it should be releasing water with this high pressure problem and it is not. The wilkins valve is doing the release, thankfully. The pipe to the wilkins is warm and I can hear it running and the pipe to the TPR is cold with no running sound.
> 
> I do have a pressure reducing valve (cone shaped thing) at the point where water comes into the garage (where the water heater is located). I adjusted it counter clockwise a number of turns and it had very little effect on reducing static pressure. Only went down by 2lbs. Did at least 5 turns so it backed out a distance of 5mm. I'm afraid to back it out any more.



After you turned the regulator back, did you run water to relieve the pressure in the pipe?


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## montag (Apr 22, 2013)

oldognewtrick said:


> After you turned the regulator back, did you run water to relieve the pressure in the pipe?



I saw a video online that said to run a faucet slightly while making the adjustment, so I did that. After I did the adjustment I turned on the faucet full for 10 seconds then closed it and went and checked the static water pressure.


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## nealtw (Apr 22, 2013)

I would change both, the regulater and the release valves.


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## montag (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks Neal. Will change both the reducing and TPR valve.

Just for reference, I've attached an image of the existing reducing valve. Will try and get one of similar dimensions.


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## CallMeVilla (Apr 23, 2013)

Honestly, at 13 yo that tank is due to go away.  Sediment, corrosion, and a failing PRV  ...  all point to a replacement.  I just replaced a 13 yo tank and more than 50% of the thing was sediment ...  it weighed a ton AFTER draining it!

New ones are more energy efficient, have better thermostats, and easy to install (if you have plumbing skills)  ...  GO FOR IT.


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## montag (Apr 23, 2013)

CallMeVilla said:


> Honestly, at 13 yo that tank is due to go away.  Sediment, corrosion, and a failing PRV  ...  all point to a replacement.  I just replaced a 13 yo tank and more than 50% of the thing was sediment ...  it weighed a ton AFTER draining it!
> 
> New ones are more energy efficient, have better thermostats, and easy to install (if you have plumbing skills)  ...  GO FOR IT.



Thank you CallMeVilla, that's a good point. I think after I have replaced the reducing valve I'll be thinking about that tank replacement as the next project. I think I can do it myself. What tank manufacturer did you go with.


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## CallMeVilla (Apr 23, 2013)

Most recent replacement was with a Rheem.  They wanted a 60 gallon version for the large family in their summer house.  It has a "vacation" setting, so its energy use in minimized while they are gone.  I receooended turning it off  ...  but they were fearful about re-lighting every trip.

You also have to know that tank manufacturers have their metallurgy down to a real science.  For a 5-Year tank under normal usage it will die in 5 years +/- one month.  Not kidding.  I got home after replacing a 5-Year tank one day and my neighbor was hauling a new tank out of his truck.  "Yeah, mine died within two months of the five year warranty." he said.

Be aware!


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## montag (Apr 23, 2013)

I like the photo 

I was wondering about those tanks with a 6, 10 or even 12 year warranty. I don't know from experience but I am guessing the warranty is only as good as the fine print.

What did shock me when looking at tanks on the Sears and other websites was that most were not rated Energy Star compliant. Maybe it is not a critical standard in tanks? or not really applicable to tanks; but wait a minute, are we not meant to be conserving energy every which way. It saves the homeowner money and is good for the environment. I must be missing something or perhaps the extra cost of an energy start rated tank is out of proportion to the energy savings.


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## CallMeVilla (Apr 24, 2013)

Go to Home Depot.  Energy Star tanks, variety of sizes and warranties.  All necessary fittings to do the installation.  Also, remember to get extra copper pipe for the PRV.  Do it before your entire tank fails  ...


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## montag (Apr 25, 2013)

Thanks CallMeVilla.

Does anyone have any recommendations as to what water heater manufacturers make a reliable tank. I'm not too enthusiastic about getting a GE model from HomeDepot. From what I have found online, Rheem seem like a good choice. My local Ferguson plumbing place carry the A O Smith brand. 

Whirlpool seem to have high ratings on the Lowes site but they also have a lot of extra electronic (I read something else to go wrong) features, that seem to make what should be a simple system, complex and therefore not reliable.


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## nealtw (Apr 25, 2013)

13 years service sounds like a good recommendment for State.


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