# Re-laminating kitchen countertops



## ScottH (Sep 20, 2016)

Hi everyone,

New member and first time posting here. I've taken some time to research this before posting...

My kitchen has laminate countertops that function fine, but the color doesn't work for me. I want to apply a new laminate color.

I've read quite a bit (including this thread from 2009) and watched a lot of YouTube videos that describe and show the process in detail. 

But...

My counters also feature a beveled edge. Everything I've been finding either shows using a router on a straight edge or installing a new beveled edge. I haven't found anything that tells me how to apply the new laminate over the beveled edges.

Is there a way to do this? Or do I need to remove the edges from the existing counters and add new ones? I fear that removing the beveled edges would likely damage the counters and that may force me to consider replacing the counters all together. I'd prefer to keep my expenses down and just apply new laminate.

Thanks in advance for any and all insight!


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

Post a photo of what you have, and welcome to the site.


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## ScottH (Sep 20, 2016)

nealtw said:


> Post a photo of what you have, and welcome to the site.



Thanks for the warm welcome.

Here are a couple of pics:


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

Back when we did a lot of that work, there was a few things that were done.
You have the deck, plywood or what ever and then add a hardwood 1,2 around the edge.
Some times you would cover the face and then router the angle with a 45* bit and leave the hard wood showing.
In your case they went one step further and covered the angle too.

If this was done with the deck attached in place the 45* router work would stop 3" from the wall as that is as close as you could get with a router.
So if the router work goes right to the walls then you will likely have to remove it to work on it.
You can remove the old with heat like the wife's iron.
You can go over the old if you sand the surface to give the glue a bit.

You would start with the face and trim that with 45* bit, then the angle trim that with the 45* bit and then do the surface and trim that with the 45*


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## Sparky617 (Sep 20, 2016)

Those beveled edges could be problematic. You don't have a lot of counters there, I'd probably just start from scratch with new underlayment and make new counters.  I'd band the counter edges in wood and route a bevel in it and not cover the wood edge with laminate.  I'd also use 3/4" plywood as the underlayment instead of using particle board.

One of the many advantages of starting over is you can build the counters without tearing out the old ones limiting the downtime in your kitchen.   I've built counters several times and it is a fairly doable DIY project for someone with decent skills and the right tools.


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## Snoonyb (Sep 20, 2016)

The normal process is referred to as "bull nose and back cove" and are accomplished in house, at the fabricator, using a hot press.

In your case the bevel edges are created using a table saw, accurately cutting the bevel pieces on the correct angel and the tricky part is achieving the tightest joint as possible, which will take some level of talent, trial and error.


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

He uses a cheater strip for the edges but there is no reason that isn't done on site.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkHemVAkhTU[/ame]


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## Snoonyb (Sep 20, 2016)

Anybody else notice the missing step?


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Anybody else notice the missing step?



Only watched the highlights, what did he miss?


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## Snoonyb (Sep 20, 2016)

He didn't rip the 45's or show them being laminated.

Which is a critical step to the finished product.


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> He didn't rip the 45's or show them being laminated.
> 
> Which is a critical step to the finished product.



Those are factory made pieces you buy.
Some come with the tongue and some not so much.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_v9yIBEGuk[/ame]


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## Snoonyb (Sep 20, 2016)

In the video, he milled his own, there was no reference to wilson art, and nothing was milled for T&G.


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

They all don't have the tongue and I think all the brands sell them.

But the OP counter does not have that as his was done in three pieces.


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## slownsteady (Sep 20, 2016)

nealtw said:


> He uses a cheater strip for the edges but there is no reason that isn't done on site.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkHemVAkhTU


It's a good overview of the process, and I was able to pick up a few tips from watching. But it's not a how-to video in any way.
The bevel edge portion of the show was very limited. Thanks only to the Wilsonart video for any insight on that aspect.
But it seems pretty clear to me that that the OP isn't going to salvage the old countertop as long as the bevel needs to be refaced.


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> But it seems pretty clear to me that that the OP isn't going to salvage the old countertop as long as the bevel needs to be refaced.



Why not?:nono:


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

http://www.amanatool.com/products/r...ter-bits/45-degree-bevel-trim-router-bit.html


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## slownsteady (Sep 20, 2016)

You're right. I am assuming that you need an entire wood shop to do the careful cutting and matching. :hide:


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> You're right. I am assuming that you need an entire wood shop to do the careful cutting and matching. :hide:



If his is in good shape he just sands it and goes right over the old all he needs is a router , a straight and angled trimmer.
I have built all that back when all I had was a circ saw, a router and an imagination.

The biggest problem he will have is finding all the screws holding down.


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## ScottH (Sep 20, 2016)

Wow, this has been quite an education! Thanks so much for the insight.

Is there anything else I should know about using a 45 degree router bit?


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## nealtw (Sep 20, 2016)

ScottH said:


> Wow, this has been quite an education! Thanks so much for the insight.
> 
> Is there anything else I should know about using a 45 degree router bit?



Other than it is tricky to hold it square with the base flat against the surface when routering that front edge, no.


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## ScottH (Sep 21, 2016)

nealtw said:


> Other than it is tricky to hold it square with the base flat against the surface when routering that front edge, no.



So, in what order should I apply and router the 3 parts (top, side, angle)?


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## nealtw (Sep 21, 2016)

ScottH said:


> So, in what order should I apply and router the 3 parts (top, side, angle)?



The last cut will leave a line that you can see so you always start on the flat front, then the angle and then the top


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## Snoonyb (Sep 21, 2016)

Do all your sanding first, being carful to not round over the 45's. Fit and tape all the pieces before you apply the contact cement. Mask off the cabinets and invest in a laminate roller.


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## Sparky617 (Sep 21, 2016)

Unless you are really wedded to the 45-degree bevel covered in laminate, I'd still recommend starting over with new underlayment and doing a more traditional edge or banding it in wood.  I suspect that beveled piece done by a DIYer is going to be a problem to get right and to stay affixed to the laminate underneath.


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## ScottH (Sep 22, 2016)

Sparky617 said:


> Unless you are really wedded to the 45-degree bevel covered in laminate, I'd still recommend starting over with new underlayment and doing a more traditional edge or banding it in wood.  I suspect that beveled piece done by a DIYer is going to be a problem to get right and to stay affixed to the laminate underneath.



That does concern me, and I'm going to look into all options thoroughly before deciding what to do.

If I do choose to re-apply, I want to see if I can get a hold of a spare piece of beveled counter and practice first.


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## nealtw (Sep 22, 2016)

With patience and a household iron you can remove the old.
The good thing about starting with the smallest bits is if it fails you can go to plan B, you just need a plan B


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## ScottH (Sep 22, 2016)

nealtw said:


> With patience and a household iron you can remove the old.
> The good thing about starting with the smallest bits is if it fails you can go to plan B, you just need a plan B



Just to be sure I understand, you're saying that with a household iron that I can remove the current laminate?

Could I also remove the current bevel trim, too? If so, I may be better off removing both the laminate top and bevel trim as the other poster recommended. I could then either put on a flat edge or add and cut a pre-made matching bevel trim.


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## Snoonyb (Sep 22, 2016)

The process is time consuming and a putty knife helps.

The down side to removing the old, is the lumpy adhesive residue. on the larger flat surfaces you'll nee some long shims, similar to those shown in the video.


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## Snoonyb (Sep 22, 2016)

Once the trim is off the bevel you'll have a better Idea of from what its made.


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## bud16415 (Sep 22, 2016)

I don&#8217;t know where you live and trust me I&#8217;m the guy that will try anything once to save a few bucks and say I did it, but if it was mine I would pull the counter top take it to the local place that makes them for everyone in town and have them recover it of if it was cheaper make new. 

Years ago we wanted to make the office look newer but new desks were out of the question so we made all new plywood tops with an edge that hung over the old top and took them in and had them done with a bevel edge just like you have. They were really pretty cheap to do and the office looked great. For me it is a job I would leave to the pros. 

I can hardly believe I just typed that.


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## Sparky617 (Sep 22, 2016)

Making new isn't hard, I've done it several times.  I think any money you save trying to reuse the old ones will be eaten up in the time required to reuse them.  If they were a straight run or just an L without a peninsula I'd consider using stock post-form counters from the home center.  The peninsula complicates the use of post-form.


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## nealtw (Sep 22, 2016)

ScottH said:


> Just to be sure I understand, you're saying that with a household iron that I can remove the current laminate?
> 
> Could I also remove the current bevel trim, too? If so, I may be better off removing both the laminate top and bevel trim as the other poster recommended. I could then either put on a flat edge or add and cut a pre-made matching bevel trim.



Your front edge is not like the one in the video as the one in the video was factory made, so it is hard to say how yours was built but no if your was glued on like in the video it will be a different glue.


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