# Drywall Help



## khyome2 (Mar 22, 2016)

So about two days ago, I bought some LeGrand raceways for some wires that i wanted to hide. The raceways had this really strong adhesive on the back so that it could stick. I had placed the raceways along the edge of a window on a wall (i mounted a television set if you were wondering why I would do that).

Today, I figure that I didn't like the placement and wanted to move it. So I started to...and the wall (drywall I believe) started to crack and peel away with the raceway adhesive. The first thing I thought was "STOP peeling, you idiot!" But I kept going, hoping that the cracking would stop. Not a chance in hell. So I figured I would finally leave it alone until I thought to saw inbetween the raceway and the wall to remove the sticky coating. And TaDa! I did...and here's what I have to show for it.

Any ideas on how to repair this specific issue and the materials I need?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 22, 2016)

khyome2 said:


> Any ideas on how to repair this specific issue and the materials I need?



Good start.

6" drywall tool. There are plastic versions.
12" plastic mud pan.
A small container of 20min. lite, powdered, joint compound.
A medium/fine drywall sanding sponge.

If there is more loose material in pic. #3, remove it.
Mix the compound to the consistency of pancake batter and apply, as level and smooth as you can.

It should take a max. of two coats for the area in 3, the rest just one.

Lightly sand, prime and paint.

Dampening the sponge will reduce the dust.

Oh, by the way........there is a learning curve.


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## slownsteady (Mar 22, 2016)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SHEETROC...-Qt-Pre-Mixed-Joint-Compound-385140/202329714

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-4-in-Hammer-End-Joint-Knife-22-074/100660207

While Snoonyb is correct, you can get by with these. If you get pre-mixed joint compound, you won't need the 'mud pan'. Add a sanding sponge and a drop cloth to this shopping list...you will need it.


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## khyome2 (Mar 24, 2016)

Here are some updated pictures if the others weren't too clear.


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## khyome2 (Mar 24, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Good start.
> 
> 6" drywall tool. There are plastic versions.
> 12" plastic mud pan.
> ...



what's a dry wall tool? not sure what you mean...like the spatula looking tool?


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## nealtw (Mar 24, 2016)

Drywall knife. They come in all sizes, as you have some texture to deal with, you don't need a wide one which you would use to spread out over a wide area.
So something like 4 inch wide will do you.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 24, 2016)

khyome2 said:


> what's a dry wall tool? not sure what you mean...like the spatula looking tool?



Correct, and in various forms.

There are common and favorites.

All of those pictured by Neal, are available, in plastic, in various aberrations from most hdwr., lumber and building material suppliers, other than wholesalers.

Unless you anticipate a necessity for future repairs, the professional version has the eventuality of being a garage sale Item.

However, a series of metal putty knives, both flexible and stiff, can be invaluable, especially the 6" knife pictured.


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## CallMeVilla (Mar 24, 2016)

So, he will end up with nice smooth patches along the window  .... against the textured parts that were original.

Since we are holding "Drywall School" why not go all the way?  Yes ... texture spray!  

After filling the problem areas and sanding smooth, its time to really finish the job.  Get a good can of drywall texture spray.  Set it to a fine-medium setting and test it on a piece of cardboard.  Aim for a consistent pattern along a 3" wide area (like the window).  Should only take a few passes to adjust the nozzle and your spray technique.

Tape off the window area to protect it from overspray.  Give it a go lightly.  You can always add more texture in a second or third coat.  Feather the edges to blend into the existing wall.  Let dry.  You can reduce bumps and spikes by dragging a drywall blade at a 80 degree angle across the surface.  If your work is still too bumpy or spiked, just sand lightly.  Don't like it still?  Sand it smooth and try again.  

Prime and paint.  Crack a beer.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 24, 2016)

Or, home desperado sells a 2'x2' piece, which gives you an 8sq.ft. area to practice on and not only adjust the spray, but the distance, and eliminates the sanding between attempts.


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## khyome2 (Mar 25, 2016)

So I'm wondering guys if I should use some mesh tape? I have people telling me to use durabond and the joint compound mix...are there multiple ways to do this? someone also said not to use mesh tape because of "nail on bead?" not sure what that means.


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## nealtw (Mar 25, 2016)

Mesh or tape are used for seams flat or inside corners, outside corner like you have use a metal bead, which gives you a straight edge to run the knife on. just fill it up and smooth it out. A bucket of premixed filler will work fine about the size of a bucket of ice cream.


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## beachguy005 (Mar 25, 2016)

There's tons of videos out there.  This gives you a pretty good idea on what you need to do.  You'll just be doing one side of the corner and you'll need to be tidy next to the trim to keep it smooth.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftzjqKxryls[/ame]


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## Snoonyb (Mar 25, 2016)

Mesh tape or regular tape is not necessary for these small patches.

DURABOND is another form of drymix compound, just a different color.

There are 3 basic methods of installing corner; Nails, screws and compression tool. There are also adhesive backed material and pre-taped.

One does not require any more or other treatment than another.

The preference is that of the installer.


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