# Walls & ceiling problems & advices



## condoowner (Apr 15, 2012)

Hey there,

SO Ive started doing some work in my new place, and I decided to attack the drywall issues before I start painting.  Later on, I will also ask for opinions about painting and sealing cigarette smell but before, I need to fix the cracks, bulging and poke marks on the walls/ceilings.

My place has a cathedral ceiling and an upper mezzanine.  The bulding is about 6 years old and the inspector who looked at the place before I buy told me that there was an issue that had been fixed with the roof trusses.  As a result, the walls (2) and cathedral ceiling have lightly suffered from it with very fine cracks but most importantly some drywall tape that has bulged and some nails that are showing thru.

For the nails, I am comfortable.  For the cracks and bulging, I am not comfortable right now.  Thats why Im asking!

*First problem:*

Basically, there is a location (seems to be right on a drywall seam) where there are 2 very fine vertical cracks running up & down. They are about 30 in long. They are spread apart by about 1.5in..  I have decided to use a razor blade, and at an angle, cut the plaster from both sides of the crack in a V-groove fashion to remove the cracked plaster and re-patch.  Now I am looking on the internet, and I see that the cracks will probably come back if not properly fixed.  Am i screwing up?  How should I fix that? *See picture 2*.  Cracks were where its now white.

*Second problem:*

At the junction between the cathedral ceiling and the dividing wall (its a condo), there is a significant crack (see picture 1).  Plus, the tape has completely peeled off.  The crack on the ceiling/wall (at angle) seems more serious than the one running down on the wall.  How do I fix that??  The inspector has assured me that there are no structural problems with the building.  Was he right?   *See picture 2*

*Third problem:*

At some locations (all on the ceiling), the drywall tape has bulged for several inches long.  *See pictures 2 & 3*.  How do I fix that?

Any help , advice, opinion or tips are GREATLY appreciated! 

As usual, thank you!!

Cheers


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## 00Mike (Apr 15, 2012)

It's hard to believe a professional did the drywall in this room.  The bulging tape is caused from not getting enough mud on the back side when installed.  The back of the tape must have mud on it or will bubble as yours has done.  You squeeze most of it out as you go along let it dry and put your second coat on.  I do one side of the corner at a time from the 2nd coat on as, although I have professionally installed drywall, I'm more proficient at wood working.  As Clint would say, "A man's got to know his limitations".  Having said that, I've done a lot of drywall.  If it were my wall I would cut out the tape that has the bubbles and /or is cracked and re-tape.  Some of the more proficient tapers on this site may have a short cut you can use instead but, that's how I do it.

There is a mesh tape (the stuff I use is a blue color) you can get that is sticky enough to adhere to the wall without mud.  It's made for this type of repair.  You put it over the grooves prior to applying mud.  Use progressively wider trowels as you put on the successive layers of mud (I do 3 coats).  The widest trowel I use is 12" for the last coat so it feathers out to about 20" making the repair virtually impossible to see.


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## condoowner (Apr 15, 2012)

Re-taping is the only way to go?

Do I have to tear off everything (all the tape and mud) and redo?  Sounds like an AWFUL long and tough job?  As I understand it, the tape is supposed to take any axial load between the drywall sheets.  That being said, I agree with re-taping as just adding some mud wont flex or accommodate movement as well and will crack again..

Can I just tape on top and mud over it?



> It's hard to believe a professional did the drywall in this room.


Its hard to believe a professional built this place. Period....


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## nealtw (Apr 16, 2012)

I think Mikes suggestions are on point. Things may have moved a little while drying out, or some other problem with the mud or installation of the tape. If it happens again you have much bigger problems with structure. 
I would like to know what the problem was with the trusses and how it was fixed. I find that a strange statement for him to make as the trusses are designed by an engineer and inspected by others, so I don't know what correction he would have seen.


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## condoowner (Apr 16, 2012)

All I know for now, and now that I remember, is that the previous owner mentioned the trusses problem to the inspector when we looked at the place before I purchase..  I went to the attic last week to fish a network cable and something caught my attention.

There are pieces of lumber (2x4) screwed at regular intervals between the two adjacent trusses. One of them seems to have snapped in a pretty violent way as one of the halves was flipped around and where it broke doesnt look like a clean cut but rather the kind of breakage you would see when you break a piece of wood by hand..  I am not sure of the purpose of these but I assume they are meant to take any side loads which would mean that the one which broke was over compressed (cant imagine in tension it would be way too much).

Next time I got a chance to poke the attic, Ill take a picture.  Also Ill ask the other owners to get more info..  Not sure if anything has been fixed as the cellulose insulation looked original all over the place so I dont think anybody has been there since construction...

In the meantime, Id like to move forward with the taping job... Should I or this will occur again and have to be redone in 3 months?


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## nealtw (Apr 16, 2012)

When trusses are installed, there are all kinds of extras called for. Tee braces stuffiners, webbing, cross bracing, angle bracing and boards just scabbed on for a ladder effect. Most house framers will have a pile of warped twisted cracked and broken lumber laying around and they get to use all that stuff in the trusses.


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## 00Mike (Apr 16, 2012)

I don't think it's necessary to tear off everything but you can't just tape and mud over the existing bubbled tape.  The bubble would just telegraph through the new layer.  Carefully use a razor knife to cut out the bubbles, make sure the remaining tape is still secure and then apply new tape and mud (note: it may be wise to moisten the area prior to installing the new tape).  Use at least a 5" trowel on the last pass to feather out the mud to a smooth finish.  Do one side of the corner and wait for the mud to dry before doing the other side.  Do not try to do the opposite side of the corner while the mud is still soft on the 1st side or you will ruin it.  Do not over sand.  If you carefully apply the mud in thin layers you will be able to get away very minimal sanding.  Use a drop light or work light on it's side at one end of your job to find low spots.  The light will throw shadows that highlight the dips.  Mark the dips with a pencil and fill them in with a final layer of mud.

If the inspector says everything is solid now you should be ok with retaping the corner in photo #1.  Is it possible the crack was there before they taped the joint?  Sometimes, if a small gap will be covered by the tape, the installer will just leave it.  If done correctly, it doesn't show when finished.  Seeing how many spots they missed in the other photos I wouldn't be surprised if they left mud off the entire back of the tape along that corner.  Tape must have mud along the entire width and length to avoid bubbles!  You must take time to "squeeze" most (not all, just - most) of the mud out from behind the tape when applying the 1st coat of mud.  Wait for the mud to completely harden before applying the next coat.

The only exception to applying mud first is when you use mesh tape.  The mud goes through the mesh as you apply the 1st coat and binds it to the wall.  I've never used mesh tape in corners though some professionals may, I don't know.  It's been awhile since I've done it and there may be new products out there I'm not aware of.

Good Luck.


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## condoowner (Apr 17, 2012)

OK while Im waiting to hear back from the other owners and we decide to get an inspection done on the roof structure, I started the tape job.... I've peeled off one of the bubbles and this is what I could see:

there is a significant gap (about a quarter inch) between the drywall sheets
the tape peeled off VERY easily (almost on its own weight)

Seems the top sheet moved inward about an eight of an inch which caused the tape to bulge inward...

What should I do?


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## nealtw (Apr 17, 2012)

I would continue to remove the bad tape and post pictures of all of that. This might be a bigger fix than a first timer wants to learn on.


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## condoowner (Apr 18, 2012)

Ok So i've managed to remove all bubbled tape and everything that looked "odd" to me...  What I mean by Odd is tape that looked bulged, swollen or not flat.  There is still some of it that looks bulged but presssing on it VERY hard does not reveal any movement or gap underneath...  Not sure but I think the builder may have put too much mud underneath and it looks like a speed bump now...

Anyways, here's a few pics of it all.. I've added notes in red to explain what I see


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## CallMeVilla (Apr 18, 2012)

Improperly applied drywall tape will do what you see.  An insufficient bed of compound will allow the tape to bulge and separate.  It does NOT necessarily mean a structural flaw in the condo.  Remove and reapply the taping.  A 1/4" gap is trivial for a drywaller but does show sloppy craftsmanship.  Condos are not always the most carefully constructed buildings.

Cannot speak to the truss issue without good pictures.  I often add collar ties to truss and rafter framing in attics just for extra safety (call me an overbuilder).


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## condoowner (Apr 18, 2012)

Mmmm yeah so.. I hope there are no framing issues as its going to get more complicated and $$$$$$$$$$

In the meantime I will see when we are getting the framing looked at, but Ill slowly start the tape job.  First timer here, any step by step procedure?

Any good tutorial?  I feel comfortable to try but Id like to start right.  Same for the tiling job I did last summer.  I was a 1st timer too, and I asked here on Houserepair talk and got veryu good advices so I could do the job extremely well.

So I need something like:

1- scrape off all lose stuff,
2-apply mud blablabla
3-apply tape while.....
4- mud again, 
5-let dry.
...
You get the idea.

Anybody with teaching skills here? Care to share?


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## nealtw (Apr 19, 2012)

Anything loose wants to be removed. When you use paper you want to squeeze the compound  and make it flat on the wall. As you won't have a flat wall I would use mesh tape that you stick on first. When filling, don't put to much on and smooth it out with the tool, don't leave it for sanding. Allow to dry and justs scrape off the highlites and use a bigger spachula on each coat. On the corners it is easier to finish one wall first and then do the otherside when the first is dry. The off angle corner between wall and vaulted ceiling will be bear, don't beat yourself up to bad, the pros have trouble with that one too.


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## nealtw (Apr 20, 2012)

Vila: "I often add collar ties to truss and rafter framing in attics just for extra safety (call me an overbuilder)."
If you want to overbuild trusses, just tell the truss company to design it for a house at the highest ski hill you can think of. You will be adding 500 feet of 2x4s and none of them will be coller ties.


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## CallMeVilla (Apr 20, 2012)

Good point @nealtw but I was referring to the many remodels I encounter where the weight loads in the attic are troublesome.  I just add structure where needed as a safeguard.


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## joecaption (Apr 21, 2012)

It would be best to use this type of tape instead of reguler paper or webbed tape for those angles.
http://www.straitflex.com/

It has a backing in it that holds it straigher, it's just as easy to install as reguler drywall tape, it will span any of those gaps instead of leaving a bulge.


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## Workaholic (Apr 21, 2012)

Remove the loose stuff and anything that will contaminate your mud, big gaps should be prefilled, might want to drive some screws into the boards to make sure everything is nice and tight. I would stay clear of mesh for the corners as it does not crease into a nice line like the paper does. tape and apply three coats of mud, sand, prime and paint.


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## condoowner (Apr 23, 2012)

Mmmmmm ive hit the problems jackpot ...  the mud job is going just fine but since a day or 2, I am hearing strange cracking noises in my bedroom.  No jokes intended here. 

First night it started it was not very loud but nevertheless I could hear an intermittent noise. Couldn't really figure where it was coming from..  then last night, I woke up and the noise is louder, more rapid and this time I could pinpoint the source if it.

You see, the electrical wires (the main building power, phone and TV cable,) are attached to the building on the exterior wall just outside of my bedroom.  When they swing ( due to wind) they make the wall crack.  I can clearly hear this if I stick my ear on the wall next to where they are attached.

What the h*** to do whit this?

That's enough for me not to sleep, and anybody else will be the same..

?!??! ....


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## nealtw (Apr 23, 2012)

I will make a couple guesses you can check into. 
These power lines are on the gable end of the building, they are attached to the side of a truss.
When the trusses are installed, bracess are added on top of the bottom cord of the trusses. They look like and are often called catwalks. They are put there to hold the trusses at 24" on center and hold the outside wall straight. These braces should be no further than ten feet apart. The one closest to the wire may have broke loose or one more is needed.
At the center of the gable end truss an angle brace is installed from near the top of the trusse down to the catwalk, on really tall trusses more than one is needed to stop the wind from flexing the truss. If the wires are mid way up on a high truss you may need another angle brace just for keeping that part of the truss stiff.


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## condoowner (Apr 23, 2012)

The power lines are not tied to the building near the roof, but rather about mid-way between the floor & ceiling of the second story. You see this building has 2 condo units stacked on top of each other's. The first unit occupy the basement (below grade) and first floor, and my condo on top occupies the second floor (my first floor) and the third floor (my second floor). The lines are tied to the exterior wall right about my height (5ft 7in) from my bedroom floor. From my bedroom window, I can see the lines and where they tie to the building.

There is a separating wall (to separate from the other condo) that happens to be one of my bedroom's walls. The power line ties about where both walls (the separating wall & outside wall) are merging. The lines might in fact be tied exactly where the separating wall is. Not sure but visually its pretty close. Last thing I will do is use a tape to measure where the lines are located. I don't want to "ride the lightning!!" 

I have a small balcony on the second floor. When I stand on that balcony, I stand way above the lines. They are far from the roof & trusses.. Whatever is going on there, I think its getting worse since its now preventing me from sleeping well... A few days ago I thought it was my bed which was squeaking. The noise seemed to be coming from the mattress (you know when you move sometimes you can hear the springs moving back or the wood frame moving a bit), but last night, it was obvious it was coming from the wall where the lines are tied. Hard to describe, I keep saying "its like a squeaking noise" but in fact its more like an irregular vibration noise, kinda like a lose anchor in concrete..  anyways the noise matches exactly the movement of the lines from the wind..

Tonight I will post some pics from outside and inside. You will get a better appreciation of the configuration.


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## condoowner (Apr 23, 2012)

OK they say a picture's worth a thousand words....  The wires are not attached to the framing but to the bricks by anchors.  My guess is that the anchors are becoming lose (just enough to move within the brick material) and cause friction noise.

Then if its whats going on, I fear the bracket one day let go and either cause a fire, a power outage, or worst, kill someone standing nearby.. There are kids all over the place here playing in the backyard..  That wouldnt be good at all.

I failed to mention that we have been having rather strong winds in the last few days..  Nevertheless, I think this shouldnt be heard.


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## nealtw (Apr 23, 2012)

If anything had come loose there, you would be able to see it in the picture. Don't let your immagination get away on you.


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## joecaption (Apr 24, 2012)

Are those cable wires hanging down over the gutters and sticking into the walls?
I can see where the wind blowing them around on those gutters could have the noise be transfured though the soffits.
That was one lazy guy who installed them that way. They should have been attached to the walls at least.
Other then all those power lines looking like a rats nest the brackets look fine in the pictures.


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## condoowner (Jul 5, 2012)

For whatever reasons, I was not notified as supposed by this forum of your reply of 04-24-2012.... Sorry for answering that late!  Ive asked the neighbor (who installed the small cable wire hanging from the upper balcony) to tighten it up or somehow attach it firmly to the building.  We'll see if that helps.

***

Coming back to the original topic of this thread (walls & ceilings), I managed to repair the damaged drywall tape on my own... LOTS of work, but Ive learned a great deal and now I feel comfident to do the same type of repair elsewhere (if need be!!).  Since the person previously living here was smoking, I needed to hide the nicotine smell from the walls.  I washed the walls & ceilings, rinsed them twice, and once very dried, I primed with Zinsser BIN.

I must admit, this is a tough paint to use.. It dries in a matter of minutes (not completely but enough to settle), and I am not sure what happened, but I got a weird finish on the ceiling.  See attached pictures of the job.  I think this is because there is different thickness of paint all over the place.  Nevertheless, it feels smooth and there are no paint bumps or roll ridges.  Should I put a second coat?  Am I ready to paint?  Obviously, a second coat would uniformize the finish (maybe?) but do I really need to apply a second coat?

What do you guys think?


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## joecaption (Jul 6, 2012)

Looks like you may not have had paint all the way around the roller cover while rolling.
On the ceiling it looks to be like you only rolled in one direction so it left rows.


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## condoowner (Jul 6, 2012)

I had lots of paint on the roll and carefully try not to apply too much pressure as i rolled...  I indeed rolled only in one direction, back & forth.   Should I apply a second coat from left to right?

What problems can I have if I paint right on top of that?  Im probably going to use Benjamin Moore regal paint which is a very thick paint ..

First time painting with an extension pole, on a ceiling and with zinsser BIN....


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## condoowner (Jul 11, 2012)

So I am going to proceed with painting the ceiling and walls within the next few days or so.. And before I go ahead, I'd like to ask a few questions if anybody cares to help me!

First of all, should I apply a second coat of primer or leave it as is?  Right now, you can see rows but its mainly in the small angled wall and the ceiling...  The other walls are looking fine to me (as far as a primer can look good..)

Second question, probably the most important:  how should I proceed with painting the room?  OK I am comfortable painting walls, but a ceiling, not so much.  Should I start first by painting the ceiling so any dripping, or drops on the walls dont affect the job too much?  Also for the ceiling, should I start by brushing a fine edge in the corners and then roll them?

Every body have their techniques but I am sure yours are better than mine so looking forward to hearing what you can suggest!

Cheers!


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## joecaption (Jul 12, 2012)

If it was mine I would go over it with a second coat.
Reason being it will be to late to go back and fix it once the paint goes on.

All ways the cutting in around the ceiling first. Try to bring the paint out at least 4" so you do not keep hitting the wall with the roller.

I would then paint any trim, once dry cut in around all the trim and the inside corners and the ceiling.
Latex drys really fast so I found it works best to do the cut in then go right back over it with a second coat that way there's no areas that look lighter.
Now your ready for paint.


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## condoowner (Jul 21, 2012)

MMM ok.. The ceiling turned out well, but some walls did not.  I am unsure about what Ive done wrong.  When the paint was almost dry, I noticed a series of vertical bands (about same width) running all over the place.  Glossy - dull - glossy - dull.....  Here's my technique in a nutshell:

I dip the roll in the tray, roll about 6 to 8 times to spread the paint around the roll evenly, then I start painting.  I paint this way:

1- I touch the wall, and start rolling up and down about 30% of the wall height.
2- I roll up & down about 60% of the wall,
3- I roll the whole height of the wall.  By that time, the paint is nice and uniform.
Then..
4- I gently roll over the edge where I was coming from to ensure uniformity the paint and avoid a lap mark.
5- I also gently roll over the other edge (where I am going) to smooth the line out and ensure no future lap mark,

Then I dip again and move on...

Here the result (see attached picture).  First time I have this happening to me... Usually, I must admit I am not very technical about painting, as I go with the flow.. It usually gives good results, but with this structured technique, I got crap.. 

I am confused because usually, this will happen IF I roll over a surface that is half dried, producing what I call a sandpaper finish..  In my case, I dont see any difference in surface finish, and the paint does not appear to be rougher in these areas.. 

Also its the second coat..  The first one was WAYYY better.  Damn it.  Can I give a 3rd coat?

Many thanks!!


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## nealtw (Jul 23, 2012)

Go read what the painters dealing with.

http://www.painttalk.com/f6/roller-marks-7271/


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## condoowner (Aug 1, 2012)

Thanks nealtw for your pointer.. I will try to redo this wall during the weekend and post back on my findings!

I however believe this has something to do with :

a) applying the paint when the room temperature was around 30C (which is a NO go!)
b) back rolling in different directions.. Should be always up or down but always the same...

Like I said, I will retry with cooler room and brush in the same direction..


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## condoowner (Aug 4, 2012)

I am wondering if you guys would be able to comment on this problem (yet another one!) I am having with installing a stupid ceiling fan to a cathedral sloped ceiling...

I have removed the old electric box and discovered (unless I am wrong) that there are NO studs running on this ceiling... I am wondering simply if it is customary or the builder simply screwed up again...

see attached picture .. This is what I can feel putting my hand (and arm) thru the opening for the electric box in the drywall.. All I can say is the electric box was screwed to the 3/4" boards and was wired with 3 wires (black/red/white & ground) and the red was capped of with a wire nut indicating ceiling fan usage.. Feeling on the same orientation as the 3/4" boards shown on the picture below, I cant find 2x4's... The way I see it, it is just 3/4" boards running from wall to wall with drywall screwed onto them... I think this must be impossible the ceiling would collapse?

Can anybody enlighten me????

Without real studs, I cant install this fan.  They recommend minimum 35# which I fear I cant get with the 3/4" boards....


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## CallMeVilla (Aug 4, 2012)

Your pic suggested the "pink" is insulation.  If it is then I have a solution.  You will need a real box for a fan.  You could sister a 2x4 onto the 3/4" furring that is already in the ceiling by pushing the 2x4 above it  --  yes, this will compress the insulation.  Fasten the 2x4 by shooting screws (2 1/2" or 3") through the ceiling drywall, the 3/4" furring and the 2x4.  The two pieces of 2x4 should be at least 12"-14" long.

Now, you have a solid edge where you can screw the fan box with screws through the sides.  Obviously, you need to fish the wires through the boc and make sure you have a wire connector that prevents sharp metal from cutting into the wires.  

Follow the fan's installation directions as to wiring and mounting.  Since the ceiling is slanted, you will need to let the mast hang freely to orient the fan properly.

Someone else might have another idea  . . .  This is what popped int my mind.

Good luck!


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## joecaption (Aug 5, 2012)

You have two choices.
Use a hole saw to make a new hole where the boards are that are attaching the sheetrock to the joist and install a pancake box directly to the board.
http://www.drillspot.com/products/112172/Raco_293_Round_Pancake_Box

Or install a box like this. It can be installed from below the ceiling.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...EFB2DF15C63EC2885E2CDC4C188079F909903&first=1


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## condoowner (Aug 5, 2012)

Hi guys!  Thanks for replying...  this house is driving me crazy.. not in a good way..  nothing was built for upgrades or modifications..

Unfortunately the ceiling was freshly painted a few days ago so cutting and reworking is out of question. 

I am thinking of hiring a contractor to look at the issue and I am thinking the easiest way will be to install a 2x4 from within the attic   ..

Really I can't believe there wouldn't be any structural members on that ceiling..  20ft wide by 25ft long at 30deggrees.. just 3/4" furring holding up the drywall??  There will be a lawsuit coming up if its the case..


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## nealtw (Aug 5, 2012)

What you are missing is your ceiling has rafters like you would expect and then for what ever reason they strapped below that and hung the drywall from the strapping. If you can get to this area from the attic, the fix would be quit simple.


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## CallMeVilla (Aug 5, 2012)

Yes, Neal is correct  . . . acces from the attic gives you a lot of options.  BUT, I get the sense you do not actually have acces due to the 30 degree slope.  Do you want to clarify or just get somebody on-site to fix the problem?


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## condoowner (Aug 5, 2012)

Hi guys!  I am not sure if I have access since the outlet box is roughly 8ft from the bottom of the ceiling ..  at 30 degree, I fear the ceiling will collapse and ill end up 15 ft below....

Until I go in the attic I won't know for sure. Also I am thinking the roof could be pretty close to the ceiling and not leave much space to work with..

Ill post some pics as soon as possible ..

Thanks guys!!


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## condoowner (Aug 5, 2012)

In the meantime please let me ask you this question:

 I have applied a first coat of paint on a wall but I noticed 2 or 3 dull spot that for whatever reason appears to be patches with putty that were not (or improperly ) primed prior to painting.

Before I apply the second coat,  what should I do to eliminate these spots clearly showing up as the paint sheen is different? ?

Sand, prime, then continue from there?  Right now I have put a second coat with a 4" roller,  it's better but the marks are still visible..


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## joecaption (Aug 6, 2012)

What are you  using for a primer?
If it's Kilnz, there's your problum.
Use Zinzer 123.
It's a sealing primer and stain blocker.


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## condoowner (Aug 6, 2012)

Its bin... I haven't had this problem anywhere except on these 3little spots... 

I suspect I either forgot to prime some putty touch ups before painting or a last minute sanding to remove some clumps in the prime caused this ..

Either ways I am learning from my mistakes... 

Could I locally apply more paint with a 4" roller and sand smooth before the 2nd final coat goes on??

Should i just prime on top and repaint??

I will post pics whenever my camera battery is charged.


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## condoowner (Aug 6, 2012)

Ok back to the ceiling fan issue, I went to the attic and took some pics as promised..  THere are 2x4's running down the ceiling.  See pics.  Basically I could either climb up the attic and install some bracing myself, or hire a contractor to do it, or use a gizmo that I purchased (and was looking to bring back to the store) to install fans when no bracing is available.

I have a hard time to use the gizmo thing since I cant visually confirm it is engaged properly in the studs, and also its nearly impossible to insert in the electric box hole without struggling and risking the ceiling freshly painted. 

I am considering going back in the attic and climb up the ceiling and screw a 2x4 between the studs..  That way, it will be reliable.  Only I am scared to go through the ceiling and fall down.  I would not survive 25ft...  Any chances this happens?  In other words, do you think this structure can support my weight (200#) without buckling, breaking or twisting?


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## nealtw (Aug 6, 2012)

The framing will carry the weight, the trick is to nail 2x4 across 2 trusses so you can climb up safely like a ladder. While you are up there you should apply poly behind the box and tape it to the vapour barrier to close the air leak.
http://www.house-improvements.com/vapor-barrier-poly-installation


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## condoowner (Aug 26, 2012)

I just though to give an update while I am asking once again for the expert's opinions!! 

The ceiling fan is now installed.  I went to the attic and screwed a piece of 2x4 across the ceiling trusses, and used an electric box extension to match the ceiling depth.  The fan installation seems sturdy and I think this will be OK.

While I was in the attic, I took some pictures of the structure as we were discussing initially in this thread.  I have notiuced some vertical members that were warped and I took a picture of the piece of wood that snapped.  

Are these warped pieces normal??? Should we worry?


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## nealtw (Aug 26, 2012)

The broken piece of 1x4 was a temp brace to hold the truss in place before he got on top to place the 2x4s on the flat. When he was on top of the roof and wanted to adjust the truss to fit the line of the flat 2x4s he just reached down and broke the temp brace. The trusses are made with dry lumber so that warped peice was likely there when it was built. Trying to staighten it now will raise the roof or lower the ceiling so I wouldn't touch it or worry about any of this.


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## condoowner (Aug 26, 2012)

Excellent!   Nice to hear that everything is fine!   Case closed then!  Thanks a lot Nealtw, im learning a lot here!!!


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