# Best way to fix rotten garage trim at ground?



## papakevin (Aug 4, 2015)

The trim around my garage door is rotted and I'd like to fix it. I have seen various products where you can chip out the old rot and patch it (like Elmer's path kit) but those reviews are mixed and have read reviews that the patch doesn't last. Looking to repair with a long term fix / solution.  

Thanks for any guidance. 

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## Sparky617 (Aug 4, 2015)

Best thing is to cut it out and replace it.  For the brick moulding I would tear it all off and replace with vinyl brick moulding.  It is readily available at home centers.  Since you already have white trim you can leave it unpainted.  For the 2x you can cut off the bottom foot or so and replace it with a piece of pressure treated wood.  Once it is good and dry prime and paint to match.  Ideally, I would probably tear it all off at some point and  replace it with a cellular PVC product like Azek.  If you don't use Azek or pressure treated wood be sure to prime and paint all sides especially the cut end on the ground before installation.  You can also coat it afterwords with a layer of latex caulking to prevent water from wicking up through the grain.

You could go in with a wood chisel and cut back until you find solid wood.  Then using a product like Durhams Water Putty but I'd probably go for the replacement instead, especially on the side with the more extensive rot.

http://thecraftsmanblog.com/the-7-best-products-to-patch-wood/


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## havasu (Aug 4, 2015)

I just had the same problem with this new house I purchased. I cut out the old, rotten wood, then replaced it with a similar fir. I then purchased a new piece of 1" x 5" and trimmed the entire opening, in order to remove the years of abuse and to hide the unsightly nail holes and hammer dents. The new 1" x 5" piece was installed using small finishing nails. After puttying the holes, I gave it a nice coat of exterior trim paint. Once dried, I replaced the old plastic/rubber weatherstripping, and the garage looks good as new.


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## nealtw (Aug 4, 2015)

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20460611,00.html


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## papakevin (Aug 6, 2015)

I like the idea of the two part epoxy, but cannot find the product referenced in the video. I have read reviews on the Home Depot site that the "new" Elmer's two part putty product doesn't last / isn't good. Found a Bondo brand product, but have not seen any reviews for it. Anyone with any experience with product currently available on the market?


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## nealtw (Aug 6, 2015)

http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-multi-purpose/
They have a list of stores.
I have not used this product.
It's to bad TOH dosn't tell us the name of their product.


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## nealtw (Aug 6, 2015)

http://www.systemthree.com/projects-rot-repair.asp?gclid=CPnN-ajIlMcCFcNhfgodiD8KZQ

This one might be better.


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## lortech (Oct 10, 2015)

Need to prevent future rot by insulating the bottom of the wood from wicking up the water. I wonder if synthetic decking can be cut to shape and that does not wick up water would be a better choice. 




nealtw said:


> http://www.systemthree.com/projects-rot-repair.asp?gclid=CPnN-ajIlMcCFcNhfgodiD8KZQ
> 
> This one might be better.


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## elbo (Oct 12, 2015)

I had a similar situation with my front entry door jamb. .I removed all the rotted wood, soaked the area with Minwax 's wood hardener, then built up the area with bondo , a little bit at a time so it didn't sag.It's been several years since I did this , and so far no problems


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## havasu (Oct 12, 2015)

I wish the "brain think tanks" would realize that if the PVC manufacturers would design dimensional lumber in common sizes, we would never have rot in such places as what this thread is referring to.


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## DFBonnett (Oct 13, 2015)

FWIW, you need to replace the wood past where the rot ends, if not the whole length. Your call on that.  Don't forget to prime the replacement pieces on ALL sides, especially butt ends, with an oil based primer. If you have time, top coat all sides with a finish coat before installation. You can either do it right or you can do it again.


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## nealtw (Oct 13, 2015)

We always leave the wood 1/4" off the floor to stop wicking and have poly between the wood and the concrete and brick but you still get rot after so many years. Re-building the bottom with a plastic putty produst that looks like wood , sans like wood ands paints like wood and does not wick water sure looks like a better way to go, but that's just me.


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