# Compressed Air Plumbing options



## ME87

Option 1:

Rapid Air

This would be a pretty simple install and not a bad price. Assuming it's just 1/2 poly tubing of some sort I could also add easily using McMaster's huge source of fittings seen here McMaster Carr

Or I can run hard copper line and solder it which just sounds like a ton of work and would likely look intrusive when run externally

and any thoughts on hose reels? I've seen some cheap ones that usually leak at the swivel after a while, but I'm interested in Flexilla which is a killer price compared to some. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this particular product.


----------



## havasu

I've had a few hose reels and they were crap. I finally went out and purchased a Craftsman reel and never been happier. If your walls were open, I would recommend copper pipe, but with your walls sealed up, poly tubing might be the way to go.


----------



## ME87

I'm currently using poly tubing on my OBA system on my truck in some locations and it's held up to that abuse so I think in a stationary setting with milder temperature fluctuations it may hold up very well. However after examining what comes with the Rapid air kit I may just piece it together from McMaster. It's going to be hard to piece it together for less than the sale price of 90$ but I know I can beat the original price of $140 and I can use black or grey tubing which won't stick out like a sore thumb on my freshly painted walls. 

*Next question*: Any suggestions as to the best way to run an air line through an exterior stucco wall into the interior of the garage? Or is it as simple as drill a hole, run the line, and use some silicon to seal it up?


----------



## havasu

Yep. Drill, run and silicone....provided you don't hit a stud, gas pipe or some hidden wiring!


----------



## ME87

Well ordered up most of the components to make my own rapid air kit from McMaster tonight. I have a few manifolds to machine but other than that I should have most of the components I need. Hopefully I'll be completely done painting on Sat. afternoon or so. Poker night tomorrow so I won't make any progress then. I'll post up build pics and part numbers from McMaster for those looking to do this as well.


----------



## havasu

We'll be looking forward to the progression!


----------



## ME87

So similar to the rapid air kit I've come up with this system for mounting hose connects to the wall. Where they have 1/4" NPT out, I'll have 3/8" NPT out to minimize any losses. The bottom plug will be replaced with a condensation drain most likely as well.


----------



## havasu

So, the box just screws into the wall and the tubing is secured to the wall as well?


----------



## ME87

Yes, the back is actually tapped as well if you want to run the lines through the wall. This system is great because it's easily expandable without hassle and it's cheap. To secure the lines, you just use 1/2" line strap such as these

https://www.google.com/search?q=emt...A&biw=1920&bih=866&sei=YYMdT5GKG6mRiALA08nHCA


----------



## ME87

Got this piece up today. Still waiting on my manifolds for the wall before I can finish up the system.


----------



## ME87

Got the manifolds back, just need to tap them and get them mounted. I got most of the line run this weekend as well.


----------



## ME87

All complete. Compressor is out back and quietly bugging the neighbors. I'm very happy with everything. Not a single leak.


----------



## havasu

Looks great. Just wondering, do you have a water separator on the compressor?


----------



## ME87

I don't yet, but living in Tucson you have to compress a lot of air to get any appreciable amount of water. I will add one however, just waiting for the right deal. I've also seen some home brew setups so I might end up giving that a go as well.


----------



## cruzn57

and added  tank drain and  inline drain, 
you'd be surprised how much moisture I get DAILY!
well worth the expense and labor!


----------



## Otahyoni

So i have been tasked with plumbing up an air system in our new building from scratch and wondering what my options are.

Ones I can think of are:
Copper (too expensive)
Galvanized steel pipe (maybe)
DOT air line (line isn't bad but fittings are pricey)
PEX (?)
PVC (i know...it could explode and kill me....)
?

This is a very large building (80'x120') so it's important to be cost efficient. What would be my best option?

Also this is primarily an equipment shed that will be used some of the time for servicing the equipment, so how should i lay out the the outlets?


----------



## cruzn57

for my rapid air  tubing.
http://www.stcvalve.com/Push_In_Fitting.htm

I used them through out my garage.


----------



## GoSkins

Otahyoni said:


> So i have been tasked with plumbing up an air system in our new building from scratch and wondering what my options are.
> 
> Ones I can think of are:
> Copper (too expensive)
> Galvanized steel pipe (maybe)
> DOT air line (line isn't bad but fittings are pricey)
> PEX (?)
> PVC (i know...it could explode and kill me....)
> ?
> 
> This is a very large building (80'x120') so it's important to be cost efficient. What would be my best option?
> 
> Also this is primarily an equipment shed that will be used some of the time for servicing the equipment, so how should i lay out the the outlets?



Have you piped it yet? Iv'e seen copper air lines sweat alot!


----------



## Otahyoni

Nope....he hasn't decided on a compressor yet...


----------



## ME87

Rotary screws can't be beat. Quiet and they make good air. 

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.co...rs/small-rotary-air-compressors/4-37kw-5-50hp


----------



## Otahyoni

They are also expensive...

We have an Atlas 3 cyl in our other shop. If we had planned ahead when i had the trench open we could have ran a line between the shops and we have a 60gal tank from another compressor (this one has a bad pump and you can't find parts for it) we could have put out there for a buffer.


----------



## GoSkins

Have you looked at Eaton Compressor's? There made in Ohio. By the way don't waste your money on galvanized go with black pipe.


----------



## Otahyoni

I imagine that's the way we'll end up going. How should i size the lines? The compressor will likely be in a corner, it's a 80'x120' steel building and i at least need air at both doors (centered at opposite ends long ways)...


----------



## GoSkins

120'   Without getting into the " What volume of air ,cfm is required for each tool'' I would guess 1 1/4 main with 1/2 branches should be fine. Use tape not dope. If you can find it in your area there is a teflon tape called Blue Monster that is a tad bit thicker and works great.


----------



## mustanggarage

In my shop I used a combination of rapid air, and Air net rigid aluminum piping http://rapidairproducts.com/airnet.asp .  the advantage of the aluminum is it is available in up to 4 inch diameter,( I used 3/4 inch in my shop) it has the quick fit fittings that slip together like the rapid air, and it doesn't rust like steel pipe.  and it is less expensive than copper.  

I used the rapid air lines for terminal runs and to get it out to some areas where it was easier to run the rapid air lines.  it has worked very well for me for the last 4 years.












at first I was concerned about how much air I would get through the rapid air line.  but I can tell you that I can run my 1/2 inch impact or my air cut off wheel just fine with my retractible line and that has about a 40 foot run of rapid air back to the air net.  I always intended to go back and replace that with air net but heck it has worked so well I finally decided why bother.

the one thing I will say is that the air net is a bit easier to work with actually than the rapid air, but the rapid air is great because it is flexible which has huge advantages if you are trying to keep it hidden.

http://rapidairproducts.com/airnet.asp


----------



## GoSkins

I like the blue color. How far apart do you have to put hangers on the plastic line?


----------



## mustanggarage

Otahyoni said:


> I imagine that's the way we'll end up going. How should i size the lines? The compressor will likely be in a corner, it's a 80'x120' steel building and i at least need air at both doors (centered at opposite ends long ways)...



this form has a cfm calculator at the top.  and at 90 psi  for 120 feet the 3/4 inch air net calculates out to 82.04 cfm, plenty of cfm for most any common air tool you could choose.  bigger pipe will give you more air storage capacity but if you do like I do and install a valve at the compressor that you shut off because there are always small leaks in the system, then it takes a lot of air to fill those lines back up as well.  I personally think the 3/4 inch air net would work well for most people.  if you you went up to the 1 inch or 1.5 inch that would give you even more reserve.  

http://rapidairproducts.com/flowrate.asp


----------



## mustanggarage

GoSkins said:


> I like the blue color. How far apart do you have to put hangers on the plastic line?




I don't know really.  I just put them up wherever I thought I might need one.  mostly when you change direction on airflow, and when you connect two pipes or if you put a direct drop in the line, to prevent the possibility of one of the connectors blowing off, and every so often in between, like every 5 feet or so on a 20 foot line would be more than adequate I think.  on the plastic line you have to put them closer together because the line has memory and tends to want to curl and loop in ways you don't want it to lol.  basically I just put them wherever I needed to get it to stay how I wanted it.


----------



## GoSkins

Is that stuff similar to pex?


----------



## Otahyoni

If i'm thinking right it's more like DOT air line.

The largest air tool we would use out there would be our 1" impact. I would say 75% of the time will be airing up tires or a 1/2" impact.


----------



## GoSkins

Ok You guys are showing me stuff iv'e never seen. What is DOT airline? I google it and it takes me to an actual Airline.


----------



## mustanggarage

Dot airline is like what you would see on semi trucks air brakes etc.  the rapid air is a synthetic line designed for use in compressed air distribution.  pex is designed for water.  I have heard of some people using it for air lines but that is not what it was designed for and so I have no idea how well it would stand up.  it is however a flexible tubing so if it fails it would likely just leak air unlike pvc which can shatter and send shrapnel all over.  so even if it failed I doubt it would do worse than make you crap your pants from surprise lol.  

but again the rapid air is designed for this use and has been tested extensively to be both functional and safe.


----------



## mustanggarage

FYI for anyone who needs more rapid air tubing.  they have changed the formulation of the tubing so that it is more flexible, but the good news for me is that they are getting rid of the old stuff cheap.  if you call there number and mention the old stock you can buy 100 feet of the tubing for 9.99 while supplies last.  I bought 200 feet of it last week.  don't know what I am going to do with it for sure yet but I will find a use for it.


----------



## d.yaros

I have a leak in a short length of black pipe where it goes into the regulator valve.  There is no convenient way to tighten the line.  Any recommendations as to a sealant?

Am afraid if I use JB Weld, it may cause more problems than it solves?


----------



## d.yaros

d.yaros said:


> I have a leak in a short length of black pipe where it goes into the regulator valve.  There is no convenient way to tighten the line.  Any recommendations as to a sealant?
> 
> Am afraid if I use JB Weld, it may cause more problems than it solves?


No suggestions/opinions?


----------



## oldognewtrick

Can you post a pic of the pipe?


----------



## mustanggarage

I have no sealant suggestion.  my suggestion is what My Dad always tells me in this situation, You can either fix it right or fix it twice.  I suggest you take it apart use teflon tape or pipe thread sealer and fix it right no matter how difficult it may be.  that is the only way it is ever going to be right.  jmo


----------



## odorf

^^^

AND, Thats right!!


----------



## odorf

i have piped,,i dont know...20  maybe 25, oil change stores.

2 ford dealers and 1 toyota dealer mechanics shop.

we run 3/4 to everything  in either black screw pipe or copper type L

to the pit,  we loop 1/2 soft copper under the concrete

I have even run an air line to a hydraulic lift, it works on air as good as hydraulics


----------



## ME87

Upgraded the shop compressor a few months ago. Don't mind the mess, we've been re-arranging and expanding.


----------



## havasu

Now, THAT is an air compressor!


----------

