# Laundary Room Relocation



## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

Hey everybody I purchased my first house and I do have some DIY experience, but plumbing knowledge is a thing I lack. I have a finished 5th bedroom in my basement that is going to be the new site of our laundary room so I can make my 1st floor half bath larger. So I found the drain behind a wall in my basement and it does not go all the way under the basement floor. If you look at the picture, what are some recommendations for how to plumb the standpipe and p trap for the washing machine? I'm not exactly sure what I can do (that is to code) to tap into that drain. THANKS A TON EVERYBODY.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 8, 2016)

What rooms and plumbing fixtures are directly above this, by floor?


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## zannej (Apr 8, 2016)

More info is needed to figure this out.

Can you provide an image with a sketch of the layout of the home, marking where this pipe is, where you want the laundry to be, and where known existing plumbing is?

Is the drain in the photo the main drain line for the house?
Does it exit via an exterior wall?
Where do you want to put the washing machine in relation to this pipe?


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

This is the main drain line exiting the home. This room is directly below the 1st floor bathroom which also held the washer and dryer. The pipe going off to the right is the drain for the bathroom that is located in 1st floor.  It runs horizontal about 30 or so inches off the basement floor then makes a 90 degree turn up into the bathroom. All the drainage for that bathroom is tied into that drain line. This main drain line is located in the closet of that finished basement room, and the plan was to do away with the closet and put the washer and dryer right there. Basically directly in front of that drain. I was planning on leaving that main drain line and standpipe exposed I case I need to get to it again in the future. Directly above that main drain line in the ceiling is also the copper hot and cold water pipes. Also yes that main drain line does exit the exterior block wall of basement. Do u need further info?


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## nealtw (Apr 8, 2016)

I don't think you will have a problem but frodo will be along, he will tell you exactly how.
Welcome to the site and congrats on the first house.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 8, 2016)

jr7 said:


> Do u need further info?



If I understand this correctly, the diagonal branch of the wye just above the clean-out plug, 45's to vertical and is the main drain for the bathroom and fixtures above?

What is the height to the center of the plug above the floor?


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

that wye goes horizontal about 10 ft then makes a 90 degree turn up into bathroom. Also above the main drain is the kitchen too. The center of the plug on the main drain line for the house is about 26-1/2".


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## slownsteady (Apr 8, 2016)

A washing machine can pump up to a certain height above the floor; not sure if it differs for different machines. So you should just need to figure out a safe height above the main drain, and use an anti-siphon valve for the drain connection. If you will be adding a slop sink to the room, you will need a separate pump for that drain.


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

My machine is very new and says it can pump up to 96". If I'm putting an anti siphon in it do I need a p trap? Also do I just tap right into that plug with the square in it? What other materials would I need for the drain. The copper water lines I know how to do, just not the washer drain. I do not want to add a sink in the room.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 8, 2016)

jr7 said:


> that wye goes horizontal about 10 ft then makes a 90 degree turn up into bathroom. Also above the main drain is the kitchen too. The center of the plug on the main drain line for the house is about 26-1/2".



This portion was clipped from this msg;"Yes you are correct about the drain that's goes to the right being for the upstairs bathroom.

Also a wye is by definition a 45 degree fitting and would need a 45 to change its direction to either horizontal or vertical, so this, "that wye goes horizontal about 10 ft then makes a 90 degree turn up into bathroom," is confusing.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 8, 2016)

Another question. 

Is there an evacuation sump and pump somewhere else in the basement, in the event of an overflow?


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

I see what your saying, but yes the wye ha a 45 on it and goes horizontal before going up. So is the anti siphon my best bet, and if so how do I go about installing one? Does it require a p trap and stand pipe with an air tight connection? Or does the washer drain hose get the anti siphons valve and it gets connected straight to the main drain line? If that's the case does the drain hose need to be a certain heighth?


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

Yes I do have a sump pump in the basement. In theory if I can get this plumbed correctly I wouldn't need to worry. I'm still looking for the answer on how to plumb the washer drain.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 8, 2016)

jr7 said:


> Yes I do have a sump pump in the basement. In theory if I can get this plumbed correctly I wouldn't need to worry. I'm still looking for the answer on how to plumb the washer drain.



In theory, correct, and then there's murphy's law.

Because of the height of the drain plug, i believe you'll be obligated to a sink.


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

Ok so I may need to install a sink. If I were to do that would I then just put the washer drain in the sink and leave it? Now for the sink do i just remove the plug from the main drain and reduce it to 2" and add a p trap and connect it to sink? I'm getting some different options here but not much in the how to side. 1 person said just use an anti siphon, and 1 said add a sink? I may be more lost then when I started!


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## nealtw (Apr 8, 2016)

I might be corrected but I think you can install another why in the main stack a trap and a stand pipe 30 or 36" what ever code is. The machine can pump that high.


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

jr7 said:


> Yes I do have a sump pump in the basement. In theory if I can get this plumbed correctly I wouldn't need to worry. I'm still looking for the answer on how to plumb the washer drain.





nealtw said:


> I might be corrected but I think you can install another why in the main stack a trap and a stand pipe 30 or 36" what ever code is. The machine can pump that high.



So when looking at the picture where do I put the wye and do I reduce in size to a 2"? How is this done? Thanks...


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## nealtw (Apr 8, 2016)

You might just change out the "Y" for a double that has 2" on one side. You would like to have to remove more pipe and add that back to have room for the last joint made a rubber joiner.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nitfCjYBQKQ&ebc=ANyPxKo-rRP6HOWw2L3D_wOLmW6tsWZcvHuKyGIa5zL-HzquEyPgKEEvMmdcoAk655BBewec3PIblhRVPp8AD9vfVZt3YD3wEA&nohtml5=False[/ame]


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

So basically take out the "y" that it already has and replace it with a double "y" and 1 outlet in it needs to be 2" reconnect the existing plumbing and plumb in the trap and stand pipe? Can a trap be that high up? If I did it like that it seems it would be 3 feet off the ground or so? Am I in the same page as u r?


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## nealtw (Apr 8, 2016)

You do understand I am not a plumber but yes you are on the same page. Your stand pipe will be up there but you said your machine will pump 96 inches or you could put the machine on one of those fancy drawer boxes.
Take your picture with you when you go shopping, if they can't help you sort it out try a different store.


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## nealtw (Apr 8, 2016)

With warm wet air and a cold wall I would not leave that wall open Mold issues. I would plan on replacing the insulation and drywall as I was doing this leaving the trap and stand pipe in the room.
I would not run the supply lines in that outside wall either.


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## jr7 (Apr 8, 2016)

Y not run water supply lines in it? Other walls in the basement have them running alone outside walls.


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## nealtw (Apr 8, 2016)

I live where they might freeze so it against code here.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 8, 2016)

jr7 said:


> So when looking at the picture where do I put the wye and do I reduce in size to a 2"? How is this done? Thanks...



This explains the requirements for a washer drain installation;https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/m...rts/29535-washing-machine-standpipe-and-drain

Were you to install a santee, it would be between the drain hub and the wye, however this may, depending upon that dimension, require reworking the existing wye, because of the distance above the floor, and the fitting can be purchased as 4/2/4 santee.


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## slownsteady (Apr 8, 2016)

I'm not the plumber here (I bet Frodo or another plumber is reading this thread and chuckling), but here's my take without too much detail.
*The plug in your main drain line is a cleanout. Keep it intact and available should you ever need it.
*I would not connect anything to the main drain directly; that would be asking for trouble (that's why you need a stand pipe)
*The p-trap is necessary to keep odors from traveling back into your washer.

So your objective is to connect above the main line- using a trap and some kind of anti-siphon protection for good measure (as it would suck to have sewage back up into your machine for whatever freakish and ungodly reason).

I will let the pros fill in the details.

If I am off-base with any of this, let's hear it from someone with first-hand knowledge.


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## frodo (Apr 9, 2016)

you said the manufacture says you can pump up 96''

remove the plug that is at 26''    install a male adaptor and...


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## Snoonyb (Apr 9, 2016)

frodo said:


> you said the manufacture says you can pump up 96''
> 
> remove the plug that is at 26''    install a male adaptor and...



I understand this, however my, unasked, question is if there is an obstruction beyond the cleanout, the laundry room and basement have not been visited for a couple of days and 6' of head pressure has built up in the drain and vent, will the new washer standpipe be overtopped?

It is also why I asked about an evac. system being in place.

Murphy's law.


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## frodo (Apr 9, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> I understand this, however my, unasked, question is if there is an obstruction beyond the cleanout, the laundry room and basement have not been visited for a couple of days and 6' of head pressure has built up in the drain and vent, will the new washer standpipe be overtopped?
> 
> It is also why I asked about an evac. system being in place.
> 
> Murphy's law.



i see your concern,  install a 2'' back water valve between the 45 an the vent tee


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## Snoonyb (Apr 9, 2016)

Thanks.

I expect the next point will be the distance from the wall.

Simple and convenient, 2 out of 3 a'int bad.


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## frodo (Apr 9, 2016)

cant help you there..it is what it is.

you could always bring the wall out to cover the plumbing


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## Snoonyb (Apr 9, 2016)

Agreed, and the alternatives would be far more intrusive and disruptive.


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## jr7 (Apr 9, 2016)

I'm good to go on the drawing you gave me so understand pretty much what I need. Just supporting it all and how to cover it is the tricky part. I think I will just run it out of the wall and build a frame around the plumbing with a door in it and have like a counter top on it.


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## jr7 (Apr 9, 2016)

Currently where I'm at with the room. I had to tear out some drywall due to finding some mold in the drywall. Thank god no mold on the studs or insulation


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## jr7 (Apr 9, 2016)

So I picked up all the stuff I need except they didn't have a back water valve which I'm gonna look at another store tomorrow for it. Does this layout look to be correct? Also could I snake the main drain line around and put it in the same wall the drain line is in? Does the vent need to be exposed so it can be gotten to?


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## frodo (Apr 9, 2016)

jr7 said:


> So I picked up all the stuff I need except they didn't have a back water valve which I'm gonna look at another store tomorrow for it. Does this layout look to be correct? Also could I snake the main drain line around and put it in the same wall the drain line is in? Does the vent need to be exposed so it can be gotten to?



sorry,  i have no idea what you are asking.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 9, 2016)

I think he's asking if he can recess the 2" back into the wall and if the AAV vent needs to be exposed.


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## jr7 (Apr 10, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> I think he's asking if he can recess the 2" back into the wall and if the AAV vent needs to be exposed.



Exactly what I'm asking


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## frodo (Apr 10, 2016)

yes the aav needs to be exposed.  you can offset the piping into the wall if you wish.

if your offset is more than 135 degrees you will need to add a clean out


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## Snoonyb (Apr 10, 2016)

jr7 said:


> Exactly what I'm asking



I'm going to make some observations here.

While the illustrations in msg's #26 & #28 appear to be at an angle, they are actually strait lines, IE., the line from 1 to 3 extends strait out from the existing cleanout, relocating the cleanout strait out from where it now is.

Using the fitting you have, in the manner you have them laid out will necessitate additional space for or having to move an appliance to access the cleanout, however it facilitates immersing the piping into the wall in a shorter distance from the cleanout.

There are tradeoffs.

There is a required rise/fall for waste line, so a 6" plumbers level, which is graduated, would be an investment to consider.

I would reverse the 3" street 45, purchase a no hub, hub, hub 3"x2" wye, a short length of 2" pipe, 2" backflow preventer, a 2" street 1/16th bend, a length of pipe to get you into the wall, another 2" street 1/16th bend, the 2" vent Tee, a short length of pipe, a 2" glue trap.The 2" standpipe can 45 out of the drywall and the AAV vent 90's to the drywall surface.

By example, the 3x3x2 wye you have is a hub, hub, hub fitting, the Tee you have for a vent Tee, is actually a sanitary Tee and is not meant to be installed horizontally.

If you are attempting to find all these parts at a hdw store, you might want to save yourself some driving time and visit an actual plumbing supplier.


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## jr7 (Apr 19, 2016)

Very busy with work so I'm finally back to this project. I just got the 2" pvc check valve (backwater valve) and it's the type with the spring not the flap inside. They guy at the store tmsaid this is the type is want so I went with it. So I've decided I am gonna recess the 2" into the wall so I can run it into a standard box for the drain and water supply for the washer. The exposed 3" wye is going to be covered by a counter top and cabinets I plan on adding where the closet used to be. The closet is where the main drain Line comes from. It will leave it out of site but easily accessible. Once that plumbing is done I'll be routing in the hot and cold water lines to the box that holds the drain and water supply for washer. Other than that I just need to wire in the 220 for the dryer (I'm no electrician so I won't even attempt it by myself, since I have so many electrician friends). Lastly will be drywall and cabinets that the wife chooses.


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