# Hardwood to carpet transition



## maxdad118

So I have a pretty bad transition to my carpet and no stores have a deep enough step to transition nicely. Am I going to pay a fortune to have this custom made or does anyone have a good idea?


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## slownsteady

If the big box stores don't carry what you're looking for, then try a flooring store. You could also try customizing a moulding to your need.


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## maxdad118

I've tried the flooring stores also, no luck


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## joecaption

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/s/molding-trim?WT.ad=SUBNAV_Moldings


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## Gary

I had a transition issue between the kitchen & living room. Mine was hardwood to tile, but the same fix would work. I made my own threshold on the table saw, and shaped the top with a belt sander & orbital sander. I left a pretty good sized gap between the two floor coverings so the heel of the threshold had a wide base to hold it solid. I cut a rabbit joint in each edge corresponding to the thickness of each floor covering. Then cut the top of the threshold at an angle to complete the transition (cross section in the photo is a rough guess of the profile). I then used a belt sander to round over the top edges to make it as low profile as possible, but still leaving enough material over the rabbits as to not weaken the threshold. The trick is to be as precise with your rabbit cuts as possible so the trim piece sets tight on both the floor covering and  the floor. This one has been in place for a good 15 years or so. My concern was to not make it any taller than necessary for trip hazard reasons. To date that has never been an issue.

You might even want to pull the carpet back and build a ramp up to the wood floor. Maybe use leveling cement to transition from the ramp to the floor to make a seamless transition for the carpet. Then lay the carpet back down & install a standard threshold.


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## maxdad118

Gary said:


> I had a transition issue between the kitchen & living room. Mine was hardwood to tile, but the same fix would work. I made my own threshold on the table saw, and shaped the top with a belt sander & orbital sander. I left a pretty good sized gap between the two floor coverings so the heel of the threshold had a wide base to hold it solid. I cut a rabbit joint in each edge corresponding to the thickness of each floor covering. Then cut the top of the threshold at an angle to complete the transition (cross section in the photo is a rough guess of the profile). I then used a belt sander to round over the top edges to make it as low profile as possible, but still leaving enough material over the rabbits as to not weaken the threshold. The trick is to be as precise with your rabbit cuts as possible so the trim piece sets tight on both the floor covering and  the floor. This one has been in place for a good 15 years or so. My concern was to not make it any taller than necessary for trip hazard reasons. To date that has never been an issue.
> 
> You might even want to pull the carpet back and build a ramp up to the wood floor. Maybe use leveling cement to transition from the ramp to the floor to make a seamless transition for the carpet. Then lay the carpet back down & install a standard threshold.



That's awesome! Exactly what I was wondering, only problem is I have no wood working tools, not even a table saw&#128534;. That's the idea I was looking for.


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## slownsteady

If you can specify exactly what you need, you could hire (or talk someone into) cutting it for you. Then you could install it. Or you can continue looking. Some company probably makes exactly what you need.


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## nealtw

Does the end of the carpet match the wood, what is holding the carpet in place now.


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## Snoonyb

This site has several varieties of transitions from the major flooring mfg. that fit the profile you are seeking;http://www.covebase-n-transitions.com/TotalTrim-Flexible-Transition-Strip-Wood-Grain.html


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## maxdad118

Tack strip is holding the carpet down. This is the profile I'm looking fore


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## Snoonyb

Then you are correct, finding that, in those dimensions, will not be likely, and need to be milled.

In following Gary's method you'll need to account for a tack strip. Your existing can be pulled, the nails removed, the leveling material used to create the slope drilled and either longer nails or screws used to reattach.

However, if this is a high traffic area, because the carpet weave is higher than the wood floor, without using a tuck-under tack strip, you risk the carpet pulling away from the hardwood.


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## nealtw

maxdad118 said:


> Tack strip is holding the carpet down. This is the profile I'm looking fore



You have to allow for the tack strip too..


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## bud16415

Don&#8217;t laugh I have used roof shingles to taper out the underlayment for carpet.

The transition between my kitchen laminate and the hardwood in the living room was 1&#8221; I made a threshold from 1x6 white oak with a slight taper across the 6&#8221; width. 

Lots of good ideas here.


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## nealtw

So planning ahead id always a good idea.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQhk-kgDcvU[/ame]


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## bud16415

nealtw said:


> So planning ahead id always a good idea.



Only thing I would do different is run it past the door and round the nose around so you couldnt notice the step.


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## nealtw

bud16415 said:


> Only thing I would do different is run it past the door and round the nose around so you couldn&#8217;t notice the step.



I have done it with ceder shingles, but it does mess with the floor molding as you get away from that area.
I would have put one board across the ends of the floor boards. I have seen tapered transition, but the floor has to be left short for it to go in.


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## maxdad118

I was unable to find a board 1" thick x 4" at Home Depot...what is everybody's thought on laminating and screwing 2 pieces together to get the desired thickness?


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## slownsteady

can't find a 1x4????? try again or someplace else. If you need a real 1" look for 5/4x4


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## nealtw

Or 4/4 rough.
http://www.peacocklumber.ca/pricing-rough-hardwood-lumber


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## Snoonyb

maxdad118 said:


> I was unable to find a board 1" thick x 4" at Home Depot...what is everybody's thought on laminating and screwing 2 pieces together to get the desired thickness?



Any local REAL lumber yard will have what you need, or for that matter any cabinet shop will have the material and be able to mill it for you.

When you see "5/4x4 & 4/4" referred too, they are speaking of material which is 5 quarters and 4 quarters material, which translates into 1-1/4" and 1" thick material, which must still be milled.


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## maxdad118

Got it, yeah that's what I figured. I think I'll check a woodworking shop or cabinet shop due to the fact I only need about 3' or so.


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