# Is there a way to 'dissolve' cement/concrete?



## semidevil

a lot of homes these days, builders put gaps between every 4th brick or so.  I believe they are called control joints right?  something that was done on purpose.

anyways, to make a long story short,  my father, not knowing what it is, and thinking that the builders did a poor job in building our home, voluntarily put slabs of cement to cover the gaps.

When I found out, I immediately knocked a lot of the cement out.  I wasn't able to clean it 100% though.  As a lot of the cement was already hardened, are there any tools I can use to clean out all the cement?   using a hammer is kind of hard and I also dont want to crack the bricks.

thanks


----------



## glennjanie

Hello SemiDevil:
The missing head joints are called weep holes; they allow any moisture and condensation to run out when it gets to the bottom. They should be left open but you don't have to clean them spotlessly. Muratic acid will disolve cement that hasn't set for 28 or more days if you need to clean the surface in a couple of places to keep it from being unsightly.
Glenn


----------



## inspectorD

You need those weep holes. Try a big masonry bit to clean it up. Just run it around the hole.


----------



## semidevil

inspectorD said:


> You need those weep holes. Try a big masonry bit to clean it up. Just run it around the hole.



thanks.

I actually already cleared out the holes with goold ol' hammer and chisel.  it's the residue/leftvoer  that got stuck on and around the brick that I cannot get out. any suggestions for these?


----------



## ToolGuy

Bricklayers rinse the brick surfaces with a muriatic acid / water solution to clean any mortar residue from the surface of the brick. I don't know the exact ratio but the instructions on the bottle should say. You'll find muriatic acid at any hardware or home improvment store. 

IMPORTANT! Read and follow the directions carefully. Use plastic tools and brushes - no metal, no natural brushes. And ALWAYS add the water to the acid, not the other way around. This is all in the instructions.


----------



## bad toady

Hello Toolguy,
                   Muriatic acid is always diluted before use. The standard dilution for most applications is one part muriatic acid to ten parts water. Be careful when mixing to avoid splashing the acid. Do not mix in a paper, ceramic or metal bucket... use a plastic bucket.  Glass containers are also acceptable for measuring and mixing.  IMPORTANT!!! Always add acid to water... never add water to acid!!  

 "When water is added to muriatic acid, an exothermic (heat is given off) reaction occurs.  This is often accompanied by a violent "belch" which propels the acid mixture out of the container and onto the person making the dilution!  This occurs because the heat generated by the reaction is under the cooler water and causing it to expand rapidly.  When the acid is poured slowly into the water, the cooler water layer is on bottom, so the heat generated is dissipated upwards at a slow speed."


----------



## ToolGuy

I stand corrected (again). That's why I emphasized following the instructions. I haven't used the stuff in so long I couldn't remember which to add first, but I know it's important. 

BTW, I see you joined in Sep '06 but it shows you have only one post, namely this one. What took ya so long? Well anyway, glad you finally decided to partake. Hope to see you around more often.


----------



## MrClean

A new product called X'Crete will be in rental stores soon. The product is safe and non-hazardous.  Spray it on the concrete to be removed and it will disolve it.  It turns concrete into a mush that can safely and easily be rinsed away.  Oh yeah, it won't hurt paint.


----------



## yesitsconcrete

sometimes we use a needle scaler altho mush sounds MUCH better


----------

