# Cabinet Hardware Install - HELP



## soparklion11 (Feb 3, 2017)

While installing cabinet hardware, I had to countersink the screws to have enough catch on the hardware. AND I oversunk, leaving too much of the screw sticking out the front, so that the hardware doesn't pull up flush with the front of the drawer.

What is the best way to fix this? Putty and countersink again? Do I screw into fresh putty so that I don't need to drill through the putty? I dunno...


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## havasu (Feb 3, 2017)

How about a shorter machine screw?


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## Snoonyb (Feb 4, 2017)

Most Ace hdw. will have truss head 8/32 screws in a variety of lengths, and plier with a variety of threaded holes, in both sae and metric can be used to shorten them.

A truss head screw appears to have a washer attached.


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## jeffmattero76 (Feb 4, 2017)

I know it is too late now, but, next time, rather than countersinking, just buy longer screws.


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## Sparky617 (Feb 4, 2017)

Shorter screws are the best answer.  I have one of these which I can use to shorten common size screws used in electrical work.  Your cabinet hardware screws will probably be one of these sizes.  But at $22 it is cheaper to buy a bag of shorter screws if you don't already own the tool.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Wire-Strippers/50081486


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## slownsteady (Feb 4, 2017)

You can cut a screw shorter if you really need to. Be sure to run a nut down the screw before you start to cut. When you're finished, run the nut back off and it will clear the threads of any burs.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 4, 2017)

Sparky617 said:


> Shorter screws are the best answer.  I have one of these which I can use to shorten common size screws used in electrical work.  Your cabinet hardware screws will probably be one of these sizes.  But at $22 it is cheaper to buy a bag of shorter screws if you don't already own the tool.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Wire-Strippers/50081486



From the OP;"I had to countersink the screws to have enough catch on the hardware. AND I oversunk,"

Meaning that the screw was now inside the cabinet skin and panel doors have cardboard fillers so when the screw is tightened it just recesses even further.


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## slownsteady (Feb 4, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> From the OP;"I had to countersink the screws to have enough catch on the hardware. AND I oversunk,"
> 
> Meaning that the screw was now inside the cabinet skin and panel doors have cardboard fillers so when the screw is tightened it just recesses even further.


Possibly true, but you would be jumping to a conclusion without knowing for a fact that the cabinets are not solid. Doors & drawer fronts may be solid even if the cabs are not.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 4, 2017)

Truss head screws address both.


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## nealtw (Feb 5, 2017)

You can buy hardware screws that are made to break at the required length
http://hubpages.com/living/How-to-Break-Breakaway-Screws


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## Mastercarpenty (Feb 11, 2017)

Another alternative is to stack washers onto he screw you have until the length works. If you've got the washers handy it can save a trip to the store. 

I've done a bit of high-end cabinet installs where one mistake could grow into a disaster- a delayed house closing, inexact match of the replacement parts meaning you have to order and buy all the doors and drawer-fronts again, and of course having the GC run you off that job and all the others you would have done for them plus the loss of your reputation. Lots of pressure to be sure, but you learn to not make mistakes in that business. 

Phil


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## slownsteady (Feb 11, 2017)

Of course, I would expect my high-end cabinets to not have a stack of washers showing inside or out.


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## Mastercarpenty (Feb 12, 2017)

slownsteady said:


> Of course, I would expect my high-end cabinets to not have a stack of washers showing inside or out.



_If they are in a countersunk hole you can't see them_  

It was something spoken of by my cabinet mentor while I was learning his tricks and he had some along with 8-32's of all lengths so we didn't need to use them. He had a trailer-full of anything you could possibly need to do cabinets and trimwork including various jigs for rapidly laying out hinges, knobs, and pulls. 

The trick I added to the mix was my electrical crimpung tool, which I think is a Matco or MAC brand bought when I did mechanic work. It has threaded holes near the pivot for screw-cutting saving you the hassle of re-threading with a seperate nut which is small and easy to lose track of on a busy job. The cheap versions of these tools often have unthreaded holes there which makes them worthless for screw-shearing since you end up with buggered threads.

Phil


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## nealtw (Feb 12, 2017)

Anyone can read instructions. Experience is making it work after you screw it up.


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## Mastercarpenty (Feb 12, 2017)

And hopefully you remember to _not do that again_!

Phil


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