# plumbing for patio sink



## erndog (Feb 28, 2009)

Hi 
    In my ongoing project of a backyard makeover, I have come to the point of running the water lines to an outdoor sink. 
    I have easy access to the pipes in the basement laundry room. I will have to bore thru a thick block wall to run the pipes outside. I'm going 24 inches below grade. I plan on doing a t in the existing lines with a shut off valve and drain spigot on each pipe to drain for winter time.
I also want to run power out at the same time. 
     Here are my questions
          What is the best way to go thru the wall, separate holes or bundled into a common conduit/pipe? 
        Is it code to run the power thru the same hole? I'm not pulling a permit but want to be up to code.
       I also want to transition to pvc for the outside run. What's the best way to do it?
       Thanks in advance for any help.   Brian


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## kok328 (Feb 28, 2009)

If your only talking about two holes, it might be safer to go that route and therefore rendering Q2 mute.
For your third question, they make EMT to PVC transition pieces, found at your local building supply or electrical supply store.


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## glennjanie (Feb 28, 2009)

Hello Brian:
It is possible to buy brass valves for your lines that have a bleeder cap on the side of them. I would turn the bleeder to the bottom position.
I would also make the CPVC (hot and cold) transition at the valves with a male adapter. All the pipes and electrical should be run through a sleeve of 3" pipe which would then be filled with spray foam. Use UF Romex cable for underground. As far as the grouping, I'm not sure about the electrical code but I personally don't see that it would cause any problem.
Glenn


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## erndog (Mar 1, 2009)

Thanks for the tips. I'll check out the options tomorrow


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## Redwood (Apr 14, 2009)

glennjanie said:


> Hello Brian:
> It is possible to buy brass valves for your lines that have a bleeder cap on the side of them. I would turn the bleeder to the bottom position.
> I would also make the CPVC (hot and cold) transition at the valves with a male adapter. *All the pipes and electrical should be run through a sleeve of 3" pipe which would then be filled with spray foam.* Use UF Romex cable for underground. As far as the grouping, I'm not sure about the electrical code but I personally don't see that it would cause any problem.
> Glenn



What?

Enlighten me please?


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## NHMaster (Apr 14, 2009)

You can not run electrical and plumbing in the same conduit, under anybody's code.  You should also not run hot and cold piping within 3" of each other.


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## Redwood (Apr 14, 2009)

Redwood passes NH Master the Duct Tape Helmet so his head doesn't explode!


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## inspectorD (Apr 14, 2009)

Friend of yours?


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## DaveyDIY (Apr 14, 2009)

glennjanie said:


> All the pipes and electrical should be run through a sleeve of 3" pipe which would then be filled with spray foam. Use UF Romex cable for underground. As far as the grouping, I'm not sure about the electrical code but I personally don't see that it would cause any problem.
> Glenn



Only thing I can think of for the foam is insulation?

But not allowed here to run water & electric in a conduit like that
Are you just running one circuit?
To power...what....?


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## Redwood (Apr 14, 2009)

inspectorD said:


> Friend of yours?



I know NH Master from several other forums...
When he comes across code issues, his head becomes pressurized and we have to put on the Duct Tape Helmet so it doesn't explode...


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## inspectorD (Apr 15, 2009)

The guy in the pic looks like he was on an episode of Jackass.

Welcome to you both.


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