# Replacing an exhaust fan without goign into the attic



## swimmer_spe (Aug 13, 2016)

My top floor bathroom's exhaust fan is noisy. The plan is to replace it with a new one. My challenge is my attic.

First off, I have about 40 inches of bat insulation up there. I know that is more than needed. Is there a safe way to move in the attic so that I stay on the structure and not go through the ceiling? What should I wear to protect me from the fibreglass? Is it possible to remove the old one and put the new one up all without going into the attic?


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## slownsteady (Aug 14, 2016)

You would have to provide some details about the fan before that could be answered. My fan can be accessed from below, but what about yours?


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## swimmer_spe (Aug 14, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> You would have to provide some details about the fan before that could be answered. My fan can be accessed from below, but what about yours?



I removed the cover but I did not see any way to remove it. What would I be looking for to be able to remove it from the bottom?


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## bud16415 (Aug 14, 2016)

If you can provide a photo of the unit with the cover removed from below I&#8217;m sure you will get some advice. If when you remove the cover there is a name plate with a model number a search on line should also help as there may be on line instructions. 

That&#8217;s a lot of insulation. Did you install it all?


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## swimmer_spe (Aug 14, 2016)

bud16415 said:


> If you can provide a photo of the unit with the cover removed from below Im sure you will get some advice. If when you remove the cover there is a name plate with a model number a search on line should also help as there may be on line instructions.
> 
> Thats a lot of insulation. Did you install it all?



I did not install it. The home inspector pointed out that it was that thick. He said it was excessive.

Here are the pictures
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums...2-12FD-4FE6-A50A-9BC7BFB0430F_zpskpagjlge.jpg
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums...2-E427-4DCF-BCAB-1C1D93DF5515_zps1lrqw4l2.jpg
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums...9-3807-4935-a0aa-566d8177d8e0_zpsojwtblst.jpg

It is as old as the house, so, I am betting that it was installed during construction.


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## bud16415 (Aug 14, 2016)

I&#8217;m pretty sure you will be able to find some after market parts to fix yours up and get it running quiet. That&#8217;s how I would start out before replacing the whole unit. 

They sell motors and blades and new covers to give it a more modern look. 

I did a quick search and saw a few motors pop up. I would start by shutting it off and taking down the motor plate. Few screws I can see in the picture. You will get a better view of the motor then to match it up. 

Others should be along to offer more help. It has been quite a few years that I have messed around with a fan like yours.


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## beachguy005 (Aug 14, 2016)

I don't know that I would want to be crawling around over insulation, especially not being able to find stable footing.  If you're going to be replacing it with a new model it might be easier to replace it from the bathroom.  Get a larger unit and cut out the ceiling opening that's large enough for the new fan and to remove the old one from below.


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## GBR (Aug 15, 2016)

That unit could have the old 3" ducting exhaust, if so- may want to replace the ducting as well. Use straight smooth wall for less condensation - better air flow than flex pipe. Be sure to insulate/vapor barrier with some flex ducting over the metal pipe, tape all joints of both duct materials, especially the metal elbow joints. Use 4" for optimum airflow. Remove/rake aside loose-fill FG wearing a dust mask, long sleeves, headlamp, gloves with a small long-handled leaf rake to keep as far from the shredded glass as possible. Lay some boards if not adept at walking on ceiling joists/truss chords. Exhaust to a gable end, not near a window/door, house air intake. Not to an attic soffit intake area.

Simply using a 3-4" adapter will give large amount of condensation to mildew/mold in the existing pipe. Turn off power at the breaker before working on. Older fan blades may require balancing, we can help.

Gary


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## swimmer_spe (Aug 15, 2016)

GBR said:


> That unit could have the old 3" ducting exhaust, if so- may want to replace the ducting as well. Use straight smooth wall for less condensation - better air flow than flex pipe. Be sure to insulate/vapor barrier with some flex ducting over the metal pipe, tape all joints of both duct materials, especially the metal elbow joints. Use 4" for optimum airflow. Remove/rake aside loose-fill FG wearing a dust mask, long sleeves, headlamp, gloves with a small long-handled leaf rake to keep as far from the shredded glass as possible. Lay some boards if not adept at walking on ceiling joists/truss chords. Exhaust to a gable end, not near a window/door, house air intake. Not to an attic soffit intake area.
> 
> Simply using a 3-4" adapter will give large amount of condensation to mildew/mold in the existing pipe. Turn off power at the breaker before working on. Older fan blades may require balancing, we can help.
> 
> Gary



Are you local? How do I get a fan rebalanced?


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