# A/C (heat pump) not working



## cyras21 (Apr 14, 2011)

First zone is A/C unit and furnace and both work fine...

Second zone is a heat pump, not really sure what this means, but I have a fan outside and some other unit in the attic. 

Last summer I was having issues with keeping the house cool. Just thought it was too hot of a day to keep up and left it at that. 

This winter, had no issues heating the house with either zone. 

This past Monday, the second floor was 80 degrees, thought it was time to turn the A/C on...after an hour+ running it was still 80 degrees. The next morning it was 79 degrees upstairs and a nice cool 68 downstairs. 

Search this forum a lil bit and decided to see what it could be. I replaced the start capacitor today and the fan outside still does not spin. No breakers are tripped. 

Any ideas?


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## hvactechfw (Apr 14, 2011)

does the compressor run or just not the fan?


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## cyras21 (Apr 14, 2011)

I'm not really sure, how would I check?

There is air blowing through the vents but no sound what so ever from the outside unit.


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## hvactechfw (Apr 14, 2011)

you would hear the compressor.........check for voltage on the incoming side of the contactor.......is the contactor pulled in?  if it is pulled in, check for voltage on the outlet side of contactor...


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## kok328 (Apr 14, 2011)

Did you check the power disconnect at the compressor?


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## cyras21 (Apr 22, 2011)

Not yet, 12+ hour days since the first posting, I'm gonna have a lil time to take another look on Wed...


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## cyras21 (Apr 24, 2011)

i had a little time today to mess with it and here's what happened.

I think it's a relay where the two live wires come in at. There is a button or something in the middle that when you press it the unit kicks on. I was thinking just change that relay out, if that is what it is. The guy that was helping said he would change out the board. 

How could I tell if it's one or the other or something else?


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## hvactechfw (Apr 24, 2011)

if the unit comes on when you press the contactor in, then you need to ensure 24V is present on the low volt terminals of the contactor.  You may not have 24V to the contactor if the unit has a high or low pressure switch that is tripped....


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## cyras21 (Apr 25, 2011)

I haven't yet tested the voltage but someone at work said something about a switch on the furnace in the attic if the spill pan had backed up with condensation or something. 

Anyway, I went into the attic real quick just to see if there was any standing water or a switch. What I found, and not sure if it's from installation or not, the large copper pipe wrapped in installation. Where it runs into the furnace there are burn marks running up the furnace side. If you pull the installation back, it's black and charred but can't tell if its from soldering the pipe. Also notice what seems to be a filter behind that panal with a few holes and lots of dust. 

Does this sound normal? Running outside now to check that voltage.


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## cyras21 (Apr 25, 2011)

Ok, tested the low voltage wires leading to the compressor.

One tested 13.something and the other 12.something...

The high voltage wires coming in tested about the same if I did it correctly.


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## cyras21 (Apr 27, 2011)

Figured out the problem...no freon


There is a leak on the very top coil where it looks like the fan blade had been hitting hit, although there is ABSOLUTELY NO damage to any blades. 

Local business want $600 to fix this, sounds high to me. What do you think?


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## hvactechfw (Apr 27, 2011)

sounds low........depending on the exact repair being made


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