# Splicing a king stud on load bearing wall.



## Rwh56 (Dec 13, 2020)

I posted this on the Carpentry and Woodworking section.  Not sure the best place to post this.

Carpenter ants have riddled the jack and king studs in a doorway that leads from the kitchen to the small shed mudroom. This is a 1920 wood frame three story house. The jack stud is easily replaced, at least in theory. The ideal repair is to also completely replace the king stud. The king stud is about ten feet from sill to plate. It is behind plaster and lath. The shed blocks outside access. Tearing up the plaster on the interior wall up past the ceiling and some of the ceiling just to get a access is not an option. I cant make the kitchen a mess right now. But I need the doorway repaired within the week. My alternative is to support the doorway header, remove the jack and cut the damaged lower part of the king stud and splice a new section of 2 x 4 from the old undamaged section down to the sill. It would be a but joint. I am guessing that removing the damaged section will leave me about 9 inches of overlap with the top of the jack stud.. Two inches away from the king stud is another full length stud. Otherwise the other king stud for the doorway is 37 inches away.

If I splice a new section, I will be using 2 7/8 inch HeadLok screws to secure the new section and the overlapping old section to the jack stud.

I believe I am improving the structure by replacing the jack stud. Am I improving the structure by cutting out the damaged section of the king stud and splicing in a new section?

Thank you in advance for any advice.

Rob H.


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## joecaption (Dec 13, 2020)

Please post a picture so everyone can see what your seeing.


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## Rwh56 (Dec 13, 2020)

The mud room was converted into a half bath if you are wondering why there is a sink in the mudroom.   Second photo shows four 2 x 4 studs.   From right to left:  jack stud, king stud, short stud about six inches high, then full length stud.   I am glad you asked me to take pictures, because it may me look at the bottom of the full length stud that I thought might help support a spliced king stud.  But this full length stud is also very damaged at its base.


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## Snoonyb (Dec 13, 2020)

It looks like you have a larger repair than you are selecting to accomplish, and while it may fix the immediate problem, I'd do all the repairs, instead of piece-meal it.

While the idea will work, I'd joint to the next stud with 3/8" ply, but as is you have limited nailing, too that stud, as well as the sill.


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## Rwh56 (Dec 15, 2020)

I removed more of the plaster and lathe to reveal the other studs to see the extent of the damage.   The studs to the left of the king and jack studs are not damaged.   But they will all need to be repaired.  Snoonyb, I am wondering if you could explain the use of 3/8" ply for joining the studs.   Will a piece of plywood bridge the studs?


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2020)

Yes. The wood lath, originally, was about 3/8" and the gypsum plaster, should be 3/8", which results in a 3/4", +- surface thickness, and the door jamb was the gauge for the screed.


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## Rwh56 (Dec 15, 2020)

Another question:   I imagine that the joint must be square and tight.   I can make a square cut on the new lumber.  How do I make a square cut on the old stud still in the wall?


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2020)

There is a learning curve, and I would remove the trimmer and use a skill saw.


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## Trailrider (Dec 16, 2020)

While I can add no advice since I am just a newbie myself....I can certainly understand your issue. My house has all the same issues. Carpenter ants or termite damage, old soft rotten studs here and there and nothing square. Each and every repair I start is “more than I wanted to tackle at this time.” But it’s always a matter of get right into the whole problem and tackle it. Old houses, though I do love them are so much work!


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## mabloodhound (Dec 16, 2020)

I've done square cuts on studs like that with a sawzall, very carefully.  But an Oscillating multi tool saw will be much easier to hold square.  That's a tool you will never regret buying.


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## Bob Reynolds (Dec 16, 2020)

This is an example of the many choices one has to make as they get into a remodeling project.  There are a number of ways to handle this.  I'll throw one out.

This appears to be a doorway. 

Can you make the doorway 3 inches narrower and install two new king studs next to the damaged ones?  That would give you the structural support you are looking for.

Be sure to treat the damaged wood to prevent any future infestation.


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## Brook Johnson (Dec 18, 2020)

I am in the middle of a major kitchen remodel and many of my studs looked very similar. I was able to brace the celing with eight foot screw jacks and carefully replace all the damaged studs one by one without removing the plaster on the opposite side of the walls by cutting the nails with an oscillating saw. I ended up replacing the stringers and adding fire blocks as well. Dozens of GRK screws and Simpson brackets later and my walls are much stronger than they ever were. A right angle drill was also indispensable.


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## Rwh56 (Dec 18, 2020)

I would like to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions.   Brook, what size, roughly, Simpson tie plates? And did you use them on both sides of the stud joint?  When you braced your kitchen ceiling, was the plaster removed and the joists exposed?   Did you use any lumber between the ceiling and screw jacks?


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## Brook Johnson (Dec 18, 2020)

Rwh56 said:


> I would like to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions.   Brook, what size, roughly, Simpson tie plates? And did you use them on both sides of the stud joint?  When you braced your kitchen ceiling, was the plaster removed and the joists exposed?   Did you use any lumber between the ceiling and screw jacks?



Yes, I removed the plaster on the interior walls of my kitchen. I put a 2"×12" plank along the length of the floor about 6" from the wall which gave me room to work. I bought four scaffolding screw jacks and fastened them to the 2x12 with 1,1/2" GRK lags and large fendender washers. (the holes in the screw jack feet were 3/4")
 I bought some 1,1/4" I.D. schedule 40 steel pipe and welded beefy angle brackets to one end with holes drilled so I could screw them into the top plate of the wall *not the celing joists*. I slipped the pipes over the screw jacks, screwed them to the top plate and tightened them until I had a had a hairline gap between the stud and the bottom plate. The pipes were not  totally vertical, they were toed out at the bottom a few degrees, hence the 6" gap along the floor. I removed the studs by cutting them cross ways every 6" or so with a  small cordless skil saw set to the maximum blade depth. Then I tapped  and broke off each piece with a hammer until the most of the stud was gone and only a thin piece remained from to to bottom. That piece was easy to remove with the oscillating saw and did not dammage the plaster on the opposite side of the wall. Finally, I put a fine metal cutting blade on the same saw and cut the sharp portruding wall board nails. The 20 penny nails in the top and bottom plates I cut off flush with a 4,1/2" angle grinder and metal cut-off blade (much easier and safer than a Sawzall) A shsrp chissel also helped in certain spots. The trick to not damaging the plaster was to go slowly and make lots of cuts. With the new studs I used Simpson Strongtie A34 brackets and Simpson 1,1/2" hex head wood screws. The holes are offset so you can pot one on each side of the stud without hitting the opposing screw. Teo top, two bottom, so each stud required four. I doubled up all the new king studs and sistered them to the new jack studs with 6" GRK screws. You need to pre-drill each hole. It was a long process but well worth it as I didn't have to move out my wife and kids or make a ton of dust.


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## Rwh56 (Dec 18, 2020)

Thank you for those details!


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## Brook Johnson (Dec 18, 2020)

No problem. Here is a photo, btw


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## Bob Reynolds (Dec 19, 2020)

Nice Job!


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## Rwh56 (Dec 22, 2020)

Placed a screw jack between studs to take some of the load when removing sections of the studs.


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## Bob Reynolds (Dec 22, 2020)

That's one way to do it!  Look at that window weight!  Most folks haven't seen those.


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## Fstetson (Dec 23, 2020)

I remember having to reconnect the rotted rope when it would break...a pain to service/repair, however an excellent example classic workmanship involved.


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## Bob Reynolds (Dec 24, 2020)

Years ago, I worked on a house in New Hampshire that was built in 1786.  It had those counterweight sash windows.  All of the ropes were rotten.  It was amazing that by simply replacing the rope, the windows were able to properly function again.    I don't know when these things were invented, but I do believe they were original to that house.  

It has always fascinated me to see how the settlers made things work with the resources that they had.  That house had been built with balloon framing from timber that had been cut on the property using the power of a waterfall.  To think they were able to saw those large trees with only the power of that watermill is just amazing.


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## Fstetson (Dec 24, 2020)

TRIVIA:  According to The Guardian article ( Who invented the sash window and what are its virtues? Why did builders not adopt the inward-opening French window, which is simpler and more easily cleaned? | Notes and Queries | guardian.co.uk (theguardian.com)  ); 

"MOST probably, sash windows were not 'invented' but developed from the simpler horizontal sliding sash (known today as the 'Yorkshire' sash). They are supposed to have come from Holland in the seventeenth century. However, W. Horman, in his _Vulgaria _, printed in 1519, writes: 'Glasen wyndowis let in the lyght . . . I have many prety wyndowes shette with levys goynge up and down.' They were first used conspicuously at Chatsworth in 1676-80 and then in 1685 at the Banqueting House at Whitehall, designed by Inigo Jones..."

My ancestor, Cornet Robert Stetson built the first sawmill in Norwell, Massachusetts (circa 1634) and ever since a little boy I have been amazed by the ability and fortitude they had in those days.  An accomplishment among many, but one I am particularly proud of.  This particular thread has refreshed that feeling and Bob, your comments really did it.  



Bob Reynolds said:


> It has always fascinated me to see how the settlers made things work with the resources that they had. That house had been built with balloon framing from timber that had been cut on the property using the power of a waterfall. To think they were able to saw those large trees with only the power of that watermill is just amazing.



 Thank you all, and I hope while you are reading this you are thinking back to what your ancestors have accomplished as well and be proud, regardless when.  Every era has wrought amazing technology we are still using today.


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