# What type of nails we should use on storage shed in our backyard



## vikasintl

We finished floor and sub floor and now

Please tell us nails we should use on wall frame as well as on roll roofing.
I have been told 16d common for wall framing ...correct me if am wrong...

Two of the four walls will have dimensional lumber 2x4 at 16" center
and other two will have pressure treated 2x6 again 16" center ..so advice accordingly.
also what type of nails to be used when we put t1-11?


----------



## joecaption

I would never ever suggest using roll roofing for any roof. It's just not going to last very long and is prone to leaking.
What's the pitch of the roof?
As far as nail sizes depends on how your going to build the wall.
If your building it the right way with the wall laying flat on the floor, then   16D will work, if your toe nailing then use 8D nails, two on one side and one in the middle on the other side.
You did build the floor framing out of pressure treated wood right?
And you  used joist hangers?
Any pressure treated wood needs ACQ approved fastners.
For the T-111 use hot diped 8D spiral siding nails. They have smaller heads.
For that T-111 to have 1/2 a chance of not rotting out at the bottom it needs to be a min. of 8" up off the ground.
Before I install it I apply soild colored stain 2' up the back side and all along the bottom, with two coats.
Paint will just peel shortly and if the bottom is not sealed it will wick up moisture and distory the siding in a few years.


----------



## vikasintl

joecaption said:


> I would never ever suggest using roll roofing for any roof. It's just not going to last very long and is prone to leaking.
> What's the pitch of the roof?
> As far as nail sizes depends on how your going to build the wall.
> If your building it the right way with the wall laying flat on the floor, then   16D will work, if your toe nailing then use 8D nails, two on one side and one in the middle on the other side.
> You did build the floor framing out of pressure treated wood right?
> And you  used joist hangers?
> Any pressure treated wood needs ACQ approved fastners.
> For the T-111 use hot diped 8D spiral siding nails. They have smaller heads.
> For that T-111 to have 1/2 a chance of not rotting out at the bottom it needs to be a min. of 8" up off the ground.
> Before I install it I apply soild colored stain 2' up the back side and all along the bottom, with two coats.
> Paint will just peel shortly and if the bottom is not sealed it will wick up moisture and distory the siding in a few years.



1.Don't know the pitch but it will low slope flat roof...
2. Yes walls laying flat on floor..so 16d should be hot galvanized spiral or common nails ? or vinyl coated sinkers are better ? for pressure treated wood? and for non pressure treated wood in walls 16d galvanized or 16d vinyl coated sinkers?
3. yes used pressure treated for the floor but did not use joist hangers just 3 nails and those nails are for treated wood.


----------



## joecaption

Far better to also have joist hangers. As the wood drys the nails can come loose and the floor joist and floor joist can try to twist, The hangers keep the floor joist attached to the rim joist.


----------



## CallMeVilla

I just built a 18' shed and chose NOT to use T-111, even though it is cheaper.  My elevation from ground level was not high enough so I chose 5/8" CDX primed and painted inside, bottom edge, and out with a 2 5/8" overhang.  Ground is another 2" lower.

Since I live and work in San Diego, the weather is temperate and rainfall is <9" a year.  The shed sits on pressure treated skids plus a floor frame of 2x4s 16" oc) and a 5/8" subfloor screwed with 1 5/8" outdoor deck screws.  Wall sheathing is 5/8" CDX as is the roof sheathing.  Trusses are 2x4 at 24" oc with 2X4 collar ties for strength using double trusses at each end for agged strength and roof geometry at the rakes.  Some will quibble a the truss design but the weather allows for no rafter tails, so I built accordingly.  A local shed manufacturer has a similar design.


----------



## vikasintl

joecaption said:


> Far better to also have joist hangers. As the wood drys the nails can come loose and the floor joist and floor joist can try to twist, The hangers keep the floor joist attached to the rim joist.




Well I did not know I am suppose to use joist hangers but good thing is 2x6 treated lumber I used is at least 5 years old so can I assume its already dry so nails will not come loose???

also I used galvanized spiral 16d nails ...

can I relax that its ok if I did not use floor joist?


----------



## vikasintl

CallMeVilla said:


> I just built a 18' shed and chose NOT to use T-111, even though it is cheaper.  My elevation from ground level was not high enough so I chose 5/8" CDX primed and painted inside, bottom edge, and out with a 2 5/8" overhang.  Ground is another 2" lower.
> 
> Since I live and work in San Diego, the weather is temperate and rainfall is <9" a year.  The shed sits on pressure treated skids plus a floor frame of 2x4s 16" oc) and a 5/8" subfloor screwed with 1 5/8" outdoor deck screws.  Wall sheathing is 5/8" CDX as is the roof sheathing.  Trusses are 2x4 at 24" oc with 2X4 collar ties for strength using double trusses at each end for agged strength and roof geometry at the rakes.  Some will quibble a the truss design but the weather allows for no rafter tails, so I built accordingly.  A local shed manufacturer has a similar design.



Thanks for valuable information and picture....


----------



## kok328

vikasintl said:


> Well I did not know I am suppose to use joist hangers but good thing is 2x6 treated lumber I used is at least 5 years old so can I assume its already dry so nails will not come loose???
> 
> also I used galvanized spiral 16d nails ...
> 
> can I relax that its ok if I did not use floor joist?



If the wood was 5 years old then it has dried out then the shrink, twist and warping has already occurred if it is going to.  This may be your saving grace.


----------



## vikasintl

lol thanks


----------



## vikasintl

Now I have question for roof and wall sheathing..

1. When we put plywood or osb(we are not sure what we will use?)
on roof rafter..what nails we should use ...should we use 8d vinyl coated or cement coated sinkers or just 8d bright common ?

2. What size and type of nails we should use when we put felt paper and roll roofing over this low slope flat roof?

3. we are putting t1-11 for siding what type of nails we should use for this?
we were told galvanized 8d spirals or ring shank is that correct? or we should use 8d vinyl coated sinkers?


----------



## asbestos

in general and nail that is either A, may get wet or B in pressure treated lumber should be galvanized (or stainless for that matter) 
The felt paper can be stapled on to the roof sheeting. You can go all out and get one of the synthetic roof underlayments  if you are worried about leaks. 
Roll roofing is not really ideal, no one seems to like it, but it works and will last a while if put on right. I would recommend 3 tab though it won't cost much more and is not that much harder to put on. 
You can use almost anything to put the t111 on as long as it is an exterior fastener. Stainless siding nails,Galvanized nails, exterior screws work fine too 
  Keep the t-111 up and away from the ground, *get the Z flashing for any horizontal seams* it will be fine. There are 1000's of structures around here (western WA) that have T111 siding that are doing just fine.  (Same goes for joist hangers)I am sitting in a 60 year old house with out joist hangers.


----------

