# Advice on circular saw please



## zani (Aug 28, 2011)

Hello! I'm a bit of a tool novice, bought a 'skil' circular saw a couple months ago to cut fence panels etc. It worked great at first but now it is cutting very slowly and I find I have to push it to get through (which I understand you are not supposed to do generally). Could the blade be dull already? It is a corded model so it's not a battery problem. I accidentally cut into some rubbery material with it once (long story) could this have damaged or gummed-up the blade somehow? I think I have the blade tightened correctly because I don't get any problems with slipping, etc but maybe I'm wrong about this. One more thing, I bought a very small tooth blade for it because I hear they make 'neater' cuts (less splintering), do these wear out easier? I know the smaller teeth will cut slower in general but it was much faster when I first used the blade than it is now. Advice greatly appreciated!


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## oldognewtrick (Aug 28, 2011)

Try putting a new balde on, they are not that expensive. You shouldn't have to force the cut, the saw should be able to cut without to much pressure.


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## Johnboy555 (Sep 9, 2011)

I don't use my circular saw every day but this is the blade that I have been the most happy with.  7-1/4 in. x 24 Tooth Carbide Circular Saw Blade-D0724R at The Home Depot
 It has a very thin kerf and just flys through the lumber. Pine or MDF... makes no difference.


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## kok328 (Sep 9, 2011)

Did you happen to put the blade on backwards?


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## circleR (Sep 19, 2011)

The small teeth will wear out more quickly, especially if they are not carbide.  Get the blade appropriate for the job... A neater cut doesn't make framing any better, or mdf requires finer teeth than cdx plywood, for example.  Also, be aware that saw blades have a "break in" period.  Use 1/3 to 1/2 of normal force for the first handful of cuts, then cut as usual.


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## EZHangDoor (Oct 9, 2011)

Most blades that come with a new saw aren't the best quality. Change the blade with a new carbide tip teeth. You'll be surprised.


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## BridgeMan (Oct 10, 2011)

zani said:


> Hello! I'm a bit of a tool novice, . . . . I accidentally cut into some rubbery material with it once (long story) could this have damaged or gummed-up the blade somehow? . . . .



Rubber-coated teeth can be problematic.  Try giving them a vigorous scrub using an old toothbrush and lacquer thinner.  And once clean, look them over carefully under a bright light.  If the point and edges of each tooth are not "crisp," consider having it professionally sharpened.  Around here the going rate is $0.25 per tooth, so a 40-tooth blade will cost $10.  If it's a cheapo blade, don't waste your $$$ on sharpening, just invest in a higher-quality blade (and stay away from old tires with it!).


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## tinalin (Oct 19, 2011)

oldog/newtrick said:


> Try putting a new balde on, they are not that expensive. You shouldn't have to force the cut, the saw should be able to cut without to much pressure.



I agree with you. Just try a new blade.


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## KerryAll (Oct 23, 2011)

...and make sure, like earlier mentioned, make sure the blade rotation is correct. The blade should have an arrow on it. Oh, and read the manual! You'd be surprsied what a little knowledge can do...


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## thegogetter222 (Oct 24, 2011)

new blade.  

try Harbor Freight if you don't want to spend a ton of money on guessing... JMO


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## klfconstruction (Oct 24, 2011)

New, sharp, blades are much safer to use, they will not have a tendancy to kick back on you. Please always wear eye protection; and dust mask when cutting ACQ or MDF. I have learned the hard, stubborn way.


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## siriuschaos (Nov 2, 2011)

Slow speed could also be caused by too long an extension cord or too light a gauge of cord.  Something to think about.


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## joecaption (Nov 2, 2011)

A new Marathon or Fierd 40 tooth blade is under $10.00. The writing on a blade faces out when you change one.
Trying to run a ciruler saw on a tiny gauge extention cord will not only slow it down it will burn up the saw after awhile.
Go buy a 12 gauge extention cord while you picking up that saw blade.
I'd also never buy a cheap blade at Harbor Freight. Save money and buy a brand name blade.


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## KerryAll (Nov 17, 2011)

Hey, Melissa,
Can you give us a link for those tipped blades?


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## joecaption (Nov 17, 2011)

I think she was trying to say carbide tipped blade. I have no clue what a toothless saw blade would look like. My guess is she meant a steel plywood blade.
Less teeth courcer but faster cut, fine tooth,  slower cut but less tear out.


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## elbo (Nov 28, 2011)

A fine blade will fill up the tooth gullets quickly, especially on pine boards, I would go with a coarse bladed blade that has deep gullets to throw off the sawdust. The rubbery stuff is the pitch from the wood, to get rid of it from the blade , remove the blade from the saw and soak the blade in oven cleaner for a few hours or better, overnight. rinse, dry, and go back to work. Dont force the cut, it will dull the blade, let the saw do the work. and , yes, a carbide blade is best


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## duallydondon (Mar 5, 2013)

I would double check to see if your saw takes the blades with the round or the diamond hole,,,and of course check that the blade is mounted properly


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## CallMeVilla (Mar 6, 2013)

Sometimes, pieces of stuff will get jammed between the blade and the housing.  Always check because that has happened to me even with by "big boy" Skil Red Magnesium.  Also make sure your blade is not just on properly but the bolt is torqued tight enough.

NEVER use the standard steel blades.  Toss them.  Get carbide tipped blades.  Diablo is reasonably priced at most Home Depot stores.


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## nealtw (Mar 6, 2013)

I think he has it figured by now.


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