# PVC fitting leaks



## Raindem (Sep 4, 2016)

We have a buried PVC line going to the garden.  One of the "T" fittings has started to leak where one of the lines enters the fitting.  It's not a geyser, just a steady fast drip.  But it's enough to pool the water above ground.

If I understand it correctly, to replace this fitting would require cutting all 3 lines a couple feet back from the T, then installing those expanding unions on each line, and then fitting in the replacement T.

Is there any other way?  Is there a product that can be applied to the exterior of the leaking joint?  Some kind of special wrap?  Is there a way to cut out just the line that is leaking and somehow get the glued part out of the fitting?

It's not that I'm trying to avoid the work (well, OK, maybe just a little), but it seems crazy to create 3 more places for future leakage just to fix one.

Eager to hear the opinion of the experts.  Thanks.

Curt


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## beachguy005 (Sep 4, 2016)

Make sure that the joints were actually cemented when they were installed.  You could also try just slopping on more pvc cement on the dry joint, that may fix it.  I wouldn't use expansion joints if you end up replacing the fitting, just use regular couplings.  You'll just have to dig back a bit on 2 of the connections to have flex to get them installed.


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## havasu (Sep 4, 2016)

Most PVC breaks occur at the elbows, and nothing short of a replacement is going to work for a pipe under pressure. Here is one of my elbows that broke and I have to demo out an entire concrete patio, then replace, at a cost of $6k


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## Raindem (Sep 4, 2016)

beachguy005 said:


> Make sure that the joints were actually cemented when they were installed.  You could also try just slopping on more pvc cement on the dry joint, that may fix it.  I wouldn't use expansion joints if you end up replacing the fitting, just use regular couplings.  You'll just have to dig back a bit on 2 of the connections to have flex to get them installed.



Yes, it was cemented.  It was installed about 4 years ago and just started leaking within the last week.


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## Raindem (Sep 4, 2016)

havasu said:


> Most PVC breaks occur at the elbows, and nothing short of a replacement is going to work for a pipe under pressure. Here is one of my elbows that broke and I have to demo out an entire concrete patio, then replace, at a cost of $6k



$6K.  Ouch! Fortunately mine is more accessible.


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## Mastercarpenty (Sep 7, 2016)

Use "slip couplings" to put the pipe back together and you won't need to flex anything. They're the same as regular PVC couplings but lack he ridge halfway into the coupling so you can slide it into place over both pipes. Get the 'tee' from a plumbing supply house if you can, they usually carry a better grade of fittings than the big-box stores do. 

Phil


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## Raindem (Sep 7, 2016)

Fittings are usually a pretty tight fit.  I'm having a hard time imagining sliding those slip couplings back and forth in order to glue them.


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## joecaption (Sep 7, 2016)

There also called repair couplings, I premark the pipe with a pencil where the fitting should end up on the pipe to makes sure to get the most contact.
Once the couplings covering the ends of the cut pipe as you slide it in place you can not tell where they cuts are without a mark.
Make sure to deburr the cuts so the coupling slides on better.
Your not going to be able to drain all the water out of the lines so I'd be using a Wet Set glue.
http://www.oatey.com/brands/harvey/...ts/pvc-wet-set-wet-conditions-hot-blue-cement


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## Raindem (Sep 7, 2016)

How far back from the T should I cut the pipes?  

Is there a way to ream out the old fitting so I only have to replace 1 pipe (the one that's leaking)?  I'm thinking like a drill attachment that will clean out the old pipe without damaging the wall of the T fitting.  Someone should invent one.

Thanks

Curt


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## JoeD (Sep 7, 2016)

They do make a reamer. It might not be practical money wise for a DIY.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvTZHp8cF7c[/ame]


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## frodo (Sep 7, 2016)

Raindem said:


> How far back from the T should I cut the pipes?
> 
> Is there a way to ream out the old fitting so I only have to replace 1 pipe (the one that's leaking)?  I'm thinking like a drill attachment that will clean out the old pipe without damaging the wall of the T fitting.  Someone should invent one.
> 
> ...



mine was on sale when i bought it for $65.00  it does 1''
another $65   for the 3/4  i was not on sale

i have 3/4,1'', 1 1/2'  2''   3''  and 4''


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## beachguy005 (Sep 7, 2016)

Forget trying to ream it out.  When pvc is cemented it's basically becomes fused together.  Trying to take it apart is a waste of time.  Did you try adding more cement to the area that leaks?
If that doesn't work just use leak seal tape.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...mance/specialty-products/Leak-Seal-Tape#tab-1


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## Raindem (Sep 7, 2016)

I've tried adding extra glue, RTV silicone, and the flex seal tape.  None of them worked.  And it's not a bad leak.  Just a drip, drip, drip.

Guess I'll just suck it up and replace the fitting.


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## frodo (Sep 7, 2016)

that is the only way to repair it,,


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## Chris (Sep 7, 2016)

If you do not have a lot of room. Cut all three lines and put 90 bends facing up on all three. Build your new tee with stubs and all three have 90 bends facing down. Then you connect the 90 to 90. I only recommend this when there is no other way because it adds several fittings.


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## Raindem (Sep 8, 2016)

I should be OK for room as long as I can use those slip couplers that were mentioned.


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## Chris (Sep 8, 2016)

I don't personally trust those slip couplings. My employees love them.


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## havasu (Sep 8, 2016)

Chris said:


> If you do not have a lot of room. Cut all three lines and put 90 bends facing up on all three. Build your new tee with stubs and all three have 90 bends facing down. Then you connect the 90 to 90. I only recommend this when there is no other way because it adds several fittings.



I did a similar a few weeks ago when I discovered a broken tee under my sidewalk. We placed 90 degree elbows and aimed them sideways to a place where we could easily work on them.


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## nealtw (Sep 8, 2016)

There is a slip joint repair fitting that would also be an expansion joint that should be used for long runs. That would save the corners and a lot of work


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## nealtw (Sep 8, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so9XZS0aD1s[/ame]


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## frodo (Sep 8, 2016)

.............................


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## Chris (Sep 8, 2016)

Yes Frodo that is what I was talking about


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## slownsteady (Sep 8, 2016)

Curious about what size the lines are that we're talking about. A 1/2 inch pvc pipe is really not that hard to flex into place, but a 2 inch pipe would be impossible.

Also curious: did you turn off the water and relieve any pressure in the pipe before you tried the extra cement? Did you try that on clean pvc or after the silicone and tape?


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## Raindem (Sep 9, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> Curious about what size the lines are that we're talking about. A 1/2 inch pvc pipe is really not that hard to flex into place, but a 2 inch pipe would be impossible.
> 
> Also curious: did you turn off the water and relieve any pressure in the pipe before you tried the extra cement? Did you try that on clean pvc or after the silicone and tape?



Yes, water was turned off.

First I tried the silicone.  When I saw it didn't work it peeled right off.  Then I tried the cement.  But I didn't know about the wet set stuff.  There were some droplets at the fitting and I think it messed with the cement.  The tape was last.  The package claimed to be applicable over wet pipes.  I still tried to get it dry and clean.


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## frodo (Sep 9, 2016)

Chris said:


> Yes Frodo that is what I was talking about




i'm a visual kind of guy,  rather than verbal

good to know great minds think alike


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## Mastercarpenty (Sep 10, 2016)

Best practice is to use the minimum number of fittings possible, as most leaks and failures occur at the fittings. There are times when there is no other way, but one should not abandon good practice simply because another way is easier or cheaper. In a concrete slab, perhaps that would be OK but in soil, you just dig a little further each way so that you can gain the movement needed to do the repair without adding more potential failure points than you have to. 

Phil


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## Raindem (Sep 11, 2016)

Mastercarpenty said:


> Best practice is to use the minimum number of fittings possible, as most leaks and failures occur at the fittings. There are times when there is no other way, but one should not abandon good practice simply because another way is easier or cheaper. In a concrete slab, perhaps that would be OK but in soil, you just dig a little further each way so that you can gain the movement needed to do the repair without adding more potential failure points than you have to.
> 
> Phil



Yes.  That was the crux of my question.  I'm going to be adding 3 fittings in order to repair 1.  Just wanted to see if there was another way.


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## WyrTwister (Sep 12, 2016)

If I understand correctly , just cut it out & fix it .  This is not rocket science .  And I am not even a plumber .

     If your shut off valve leaks a little & you can not completely stop the drips , use the bread trick .

God bless
Wyr


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