# Installing a laminate countertop against wall with a subtle bow in it



## DIYer2015 (Jan 7, 2015)

Hello everyone,

I am remodeling our laundry room for my wife, and I have cut a laminate countertop to the dimension of the south wall, but when I butt the splashboard against the wall, it became apparent to me that there is a subtle bow in the wall (into the room) that prevents the full length of the splashboard from resting flush against the wall.  The bow is in the center of the wall, roughly.  The bow is not noticeable just looking at it, but holding a rigid level against the wall confirms that the bow is in the wall and not the laminate.

My question is how to close the gap between the splashboard and the wall, bearing in mind that the gap at each end is about 1/4".  The portion of the splashboard that butts up against the portion of the wall that bows is the only part that butts nicely.  On each end, the gap tapers out to 1/4".  It seems to wide of a gap to simply caulk.  The laminate is pearl colored and the wall is dark purple.

Any ideas are appreciated.  Hopefully, it's something a novice can tackle.


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## nealtw (Jan 7, 2015)

Wecome to the site.
Scribe and cut to fit.
Place the counter top in place and by mesuring from the front of the counter to the front of the cupboard below you can prove you have it straight with the cupboard.
Measure the widest gap you have and find a spacer to hold against the wall so your pencil wil just touch the edge of the backsplash. With your pencil and spacer draw a line the full legth of the unit.
And that is your cut line.
http://www.mal-o-sen.com/scribing.htm


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## bud16415 (Jan 8, 2015)

Is your counter top the type with the back splash built in? Curved up to about 5 inches. That type is pretty hard to scribe in and I would glue a ½ strip to the top of the splash and scribe and cut that then paint or caulk.


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## DIYer2015 (Jan 8, 2015)

Thank you Neal and Bud,

The countertop does have a built-in splashboard, so while scribing it to fit would probably give me the best results (if done right!), it would be an expensive mistake if I botched it.  It is approximately an 8' length of laminate.

Maybe I've seen a 1/2 strip before, but I do not know what it is by name.  Is there another name for a 1/2 strip so I can picture what Bud suggested? I'm picturing something like chair rail.


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## nealtw (Jan 8, 2015)

A couple more thoughts, if you are going to tile above this you only need to be close like with in 1/4 Inch or so maybe a little less. If not maybe just add a small corner cove molding to hide the gap.
And the last choice would be to set it in place and run a knife along the drywall and remove some drywall below that line so the top can slide in.


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## bud16415 (Jan 8, 2015)

Im trying to think what you could use per my suggestion. The Home improvement stores have all kinds of trim and I think they sell .5x1 clear pine as trim. But if not just buy a piece of any kind of trim like a baseboard or something and cut the bottom 1 off and glue it on upside down. Scribe it as Neal suggests and leave about .25 at the thinnest point or more if the extra overhang is alright. 

I think you said this is just a laundry room. So I would paint the sliver to match the walls after caulking. 

Neals idea of a molding is good too if that is a look you would be ok with. 

One more suggestion that comes to mind. Snug the backsplash up tight and attach it with the gap. Then cover the top edge with painters masking tape and a strip also on the wall more if you are messy like me. Go to the auto parts store and get a small can of auto body filler (Bondo) mix some up and fill the gap. After it starts to get hard about 5 minutes take a knife into the corner and lightly cut any that got on the wall tape. Remove tape and paint.


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## bud16415 (Jan 8, 2015)

Old age made me post things twice. Old age made me post things twice. Old age made me post things twice. Old age made me post things twice.


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## nealtw (Jan 8, 2015)

Bud: repeating yourself is a sign of old age.:banana:


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## bud16415 (Jan 8, 2015)

nealtw said:


> Bud: repeating yourself is a sign of old age.:banana:




 Politicians say things over and over and pretty soon everyone thinks its true.  
  :hide:


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## DIYer2015 (Jan 8, 2015)

A small (3/8" or thereabouts) strip of cove molding seems like it would do the trick.  I just have to wait until the roads are a bit safer to justify a trip to town.  I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## mako1 (Jan 8, 2015)

Go get a compass at the local big box store.https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...AcKZd_QpfG43wpNbd5-hrTW-hh9JF-rA4Jy_ppLxr-1Hq
 Set your counter in place so the ends are square with the walls.Scribe a mark with the compass setting it to the deepest point from the wall  and then remove the material with a belt sander or what ever you have cut to tthe line


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## beachguy005 (Jan 8, 2015)

Putting a piece of molding on top will cover the gap but then you'll have a bent piece of molding that's not even with the top of the back splash.  Scribing and using a belt sander is one way but another option, given that it's too large a gap for caulking, is to use plaster or joint compound.
Set the counter and and then use the compound to fill the gap and feather it out to about a foot above the counter.  Bud mentions Bondo but that sets up and hardens so quickly you might find it unworkable. You'll just have to repaint that wall after.


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## nealtw (Jan 8, 2015)

mako1 said:


> Go get a compass at the local big box store.https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...AcKZd_QpfG43wpNbd5-hrTW-hh9JF-rA4Jy_ppLxr-1Hq
> Set your counter in place so the ends are square with the walls.Scribe a mark with the compass setting it to the deepest point from the wall  and then remove the material with a belt sander or what ever you have cut to tthe line



Is it safe to assume that you do not read what has been discussed before you post your suggestions?:beer:


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## mako1 (Jan 10, 2015)

Don't know what got your panties in a bunch.I was simply giving another technique for the same thing.A compass comes in handy and a piece of wood just the proper thickness is not always around.


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## DIYer2015 (Jan 27, 2015)

I finally got around to finishing this project.  I had fun with it.  The tips are appreciated.  I used a strip of molding to cover the gap between the backsplash and the drywall.  On either end of the laminate, I caulked and painted.  I posted pictures so you can see how it turned out.  (In the future, being aware of how common it is for drywall to be uneven, I would take measurements at several spans between walls, since I ended up having a perfect cut at the front of the counter and a 1/4" gap at both ends near the back.)


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## oldognewtrick (Jan 27, 2015)

Good job, turned out nice and thanks for the follow up!


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## nealtw (Jan 27, 2015)

That looks good, they also sell an end caps but you need more tools for that and you didn't hae a lot of room beside the sink.


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## bud16415 (Jan 27, 2015)

Great looking job! I love it when folks follow up with photos. 
:
What&#8217;s your next project?


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## DIYer2015 (Jan 28, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> Great looking job! I love it when folks follow up with photos.
> :
> Whats your next project?



Either my drafty garage door or making a compost tumbler for the garden.  Thanks for the kind words.


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## bud16415 (Jan 28, 2015)

DIYer2015 said:


> Either my drafty garage door or making a compost tumbler for the garden.  Thanks for the kind words.


  I hope you do the compost project. We recycle at the local recycle bins in our town and we are left with just the organic stuff to try and figure out what to do with. She has been talking about doing a composter for about 6 months now. I also need a better way to store and transport the recycles tossing them in the back of her car isnt working out real well.


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## DIYer2015 (Jan 29, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> I hope you do the compost project. We recycle at the local recycle bins in our town and we are left with just the organic stuff to try and figure out what to do with. She has been talking about doing a composter for about 6 months now. I also need a better way to store and transport the recycles tossing them in the back of her car isnt working out real well.



I will definitely have the composter built come spring.  Right now, all the kitchen scraps are going in a heap out back behind the garden.  Not really doing anything in the dead of winter, so I am putting the tumbler together.  The one's they sell in stores are just too expensive for me to justify.  Besides, I'm trying to live by "If you can learn to make it yourself, make it.  If you can learn to fix it yourself, fix it."  The enclosed plastic drum I have is about $20 at Rural King, I had a 4' length of PVC, and just some basic 2x4 will do for the X-frame.  I bought a 2" hole saw bit, a couple hinges, and a latch for the door I'll cut out.  It's ready to be built, but the winds out here are brutal and are motivating me to fix the drafty garage first (and plant a windbreak in the spring!).

This spring, I also want to put up a chicken coup and get some layers.  They will likely deal with most of the kitchen scraps anyway, but the tumbler will be a good backup for whatever they reject.

Like you, I've been taking the plastics to a nearby recycling plant.  The best thing you can do if it is not a convenient trip is to reduce the amount of plastic you use, or find ways to reuse it.  Depending on where you live, you might have a neighbor that has a recycling service, if you're willing to chip in a little to help pay his bill.  I know some of my fellow neighbors just burn all their trash, but I can't do that in good conscience.  Despite being a rustic fellow, I also have a chemistry background, and I'm aware of the byproducts of heating plastic...makes cigarette smoke seem like a health food.  I have no problem burning the tree-based refuse, but plastics and such are a different story.  This summer, I'd like to put in a wood stove, so that tree-based refuse can be used to heat my home, not the back yard.


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## bud16415 (Jan 30, 2015)

DIYer2015 said:


> I will definitely have the composter built come spring.  Right now, all the kitchen scraps are going in a heap out back behind the garden.  Not really doing anything in the dead of winter, so I am putting the tumbler together.  The one's they sell in stores are just too expensive for me to justify.  Besides, I'm trying to live by "If you can learn to make it yourself, make it.  If you can learn to fix it yourself, fix it."  The enclosed plastic drum I have is about $20 at Rural King, I had a 4' length of PVC, and just some basic 2x4 will do for the X-frame.  I bought a 2" hole saw bit, a couple hinges, and a latch for the door I'll cut out.  It's ready to be built, but the winds out here are brutal and are motivating me to fix the drafty garage first (and plant a windbreak in the spring!).
> 
> This spring, I also want to put up a chicken coup and get some layers.  They will likely deal with most of the kitchen scraps anyway, but the tumbler will be a good backup for whatever they reject.
> 
> Like you, I've been taking the plastics to a nearby recycling plant.  The best thing you can do if it is not a convenient trip is to reduce the amount of plastic you use, or find ways to reuse it.  Depending on where you live, you might have a neighbor that has a recycling service, if you're willing to chip in a little to help pay his bill.  I know some of my fellow neighbors just burn all their trash, but I can't do that in good conscience.  Despite being a rustic fellow, I also have a chemistry background, and I'm aware of the byproducts of heating plastic...makes cigarette smoke seem like a health food.  I have no problem burning the tree-based refuse, but plastics and such are a different story.  This summer, I'd like to put in a wood stove, so that tree-based refuse can be used to heat my home, not the back yard.



 We sound quite similar in wanting to get rid of our waste in the most logical way. My girls father has a dairy farm and he has saved up 100s of those 55 gallon white plastic poly drums, I have cut the tops out of quite a few and added rope handles to use for waste cans. I could see making some composters out of some of them also. Hmm you got me thinking. They seem to stand up to UV quite well. Maybe I see a cottage industry popping up here.


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