# Adding a 2nd Outlet



## glouie (Oct 31, 2016)

Hi,

I apologize if this is a double post.. I tried posting this once before, but it seems like it got lost when I hit the submit thread button..

I want to add a GFCI outlet below the Master Bath toilet to power a  Heated Toilet Seat / Bidet (5.5 Amp) for my wife.   The only accessible source of power is an existing circuit wired for the Master Bedroom TV on the opposite side of the common wall.      

The house was built new in 1997, and there was an existing electrical outlet about a foot above the floor.  I tapped into that outlet a few years ago to add an outlet about 5 feet up the wall to mount the flat screen TV. 

Is it okay to tap into the that same circuit to add an outlet on the reverse side of the wall, to power the the bidet heater.  

Is it safe to do this?   What's the potential if there's too much power draw?  Popping the circuit breaker?    

thanks in advance for any advice.

-George


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## slownsteady (Oct 31, 2016)

The answer lies in the specs on how much power the new stuff will draw. My instinct is not very much, but it also depends on what else is on the circuit.
Yes the breaker should trip if you draw too much power, but what a PITA that would be whenever it happened.


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## nealtw (Oct 31, 2016)

Everything in the bathroom should be on the same circuit I think. But that wouldn't stop me from doing it. You do want to know what else is on the circuit and add up all the uses to see if it can handle it.
I would put the gfci on the bedroom side, might get tested more often.


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## KULTULZ (Nov 1, 2016)

nealtw said:


> Everything in the bathroom should be on the same circuit I think. But that wouldn't stop me from doing it. You do want to know what else is on the circuit and add up all the uses to see if it can handle it.
> 
> I would put the gfci on the bedroom side, might get tested more often.



Usually, the bathroom has to have at the minimum one dedicated 20A circuit (GFCI). The lighting circuit is usually separate (15A) (may have be GFCI).

You would have to perform a circuit map on the TV circuit to find out how much wattage draw you have. Is the circuit 15 or 20A? 

New generation GFCI receptacles are self-testing.

Either that or turn off the TV when you use the John... :rofl:

(The above is subject to verification by a licensed electrician who knows what he is talking about. I know just enough to be dangerous... :hide


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## bud16415 (Nov 1, 2016)

I personally would do just what you have suggested cut your outlet hole in the bathroom wall for what they call an old work box. That is one that has clamps built into it to secure it to the wall. pull the outlet out in the bedroom after killing the power to it and fish a wire between the new location and the old box. Join the wires with a pigtail there with wire nuts. Secure the box in the bathroom and attach the GFIC to the line screws only nothing to load. 

You should have no problem with the extra load and if it did draw too much power with the tv etc it would trip the breaker is all. I doubt you will even get close to that though. 

I would want the GFCI in the bathroom and the only thing it controls is the seat myself. 

The pros should be along soon and tell you what code has to say about it.


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## afjes_2016 (Nov 1, 2016)

Well, the bathroom should be a self contained dedicated circuit for either that bathroom alone or only to another bathroom so is it a no-no according to code :nono:  but I won't tell if no one else on this board snitches :rofl:

As suggested many times and I am just chiming in with my own two cents yes, use a GFCI receptacle and put it in the box in the bathroom, not the bedroom for convenience if it trips. Nothing like getting off the hopper to go reset a GFCI 

The use of an old work box would be best, just be sure that the wall depth will accomodate it as the GFCI receptacles are deep and take up quite a bit of room in the box. Be sure you use the proper wire gauge going from the bedroom box to the new box.

But do check what is on the existing circuit first before you go through all that work. Heaters normally take a lot of watts to run, it may not trip the GFCI but will trip the breaker.


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## nealtw (Nov 1, 2016)

afjes_2016 said:


> Well, the bathroom should be a self contained dedicated circuit for either that bathroom alone or only to another bathroom so is it a no-no according to code :nono: but I won't tell if no one else on this board snitches :rofl:
> 
> As suggested many times and I am just chiming in with my own two cents yes, use a GFCI receptacle and put it in the box in the bathroom, not the bedroom for convenience if it trips. Nothing like getting off the hopper to go reset a GFCI
> 
> ...


I did say put it in the bedroom for convenience but I was also thinking of the size of the box might be better there.
I doubt anyone is going to get off the toilet to reset it and get back on the toilet, and personally I don't like hugging toilets that much.
What problem would be indicated if it did trip, not likely to reset. 
:trophy:


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## Snoonyb (Nov 1, 2016)

Since this is a Bidet, is it switched, timed or always on?


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## glouie (Nov 2, 2016)

Thanks everyone for the responses!  I think I'm going to try this out.   Would it be best to run the wire from the newer TV outlet, or the old original installed other?   Or does it even matter?  For what it's worth, the new outlet would be inches from the original outlet, and a few feet from the TV outlet.

  I guess if it consistently tripping the breaker, well just uninstall the bidet and leave the new outlet unused.



> Since this is a Bidet, is it switched, timed or always on?



It's a always on, but I think it only draws power when you sit on it.  The seat is heated, and the water is only heated when you use it.


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## KULTULZ (Nov 2, 2016)

bud16415 said:


> You should have no problem with the extra load and if it did draw too much power with the tv etc it would trip the breaker is all. I doubt you will even get close to that though.
> 
> I would want the GFCI in the bathroom and the only thing it controls is the seat myself.



It all depends on the total load on the bedroom circuit. TV, cable box, DVD, sound system? A booster box to watch porno... 

An overload will trip the breaker not the GFCI.


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## afjes_2016 (Nov 2, 2016)

glouie said:


> ...Would it be best to run the wire from the newer TV outlet, or the old original installed other?   Or does it even matter?  For what it's worth, the new outlet would be inches from the original outlet, and a few feet from the TV outlet...



Either outlet, it does not matter whether you add an additional outlet from one or the other. However, please check the conductor count in the outlet you are running the new line from. You can not have an overloaded outlet box. Making it simple, if using 12 gauge wire there should only be no more than 2 romex cables in the box. If 14 gauge you can have up to 3. Here is a chart for future reference that helps you calculate the number of conductors allowed in a given size box.

Only inches from; be sure though when you plan where you will put the new outlet box on the other side of the wall you have sufficient space. Meaning, don't put the boxes back to back in error or you will not be able to put the new box in the wall as it will hit the back of the other box on the other side of the wall. Also when planning where to put the new outlet box because it is not right up against a stud. Leave about 4 inches from the stub to the new placement. When cutting the hole for the new outlet box be sure to cut it evenly and not damage the sheet rock near the cuts. It is important that the sheet rock is in tact by the cut edge so that the clamps on the old work box has something to grip to or the box will never be able to be tightened enough to stay in the wall. Since you said the house was built in 1997 I would assume it is only sheet rock on the wall studs (if there is tile on the bathroom wall where the new box will go be sure you figure that thickness) along with the thickness of the sheet rock). If so you should be ok. The clamps on the old work box will only open so far. If the wall material is too thick you won't be able to open the clamps enough to get a grip on the wall without the clamp falling off the screw holding it.

If you will be using an "old work box" (this is a 20 cubic inch box, it will hold the GFCI receptalce nicely, be sure though that the depth of the wall cavity can handle it; you can also use the 14 inch which is not quite as deep but will take more to get the GFCI receptacle in it) be sure that you cut the hole for the box carefully. Don't make the hole too large or the clamps will not be able to do their job and the box will pull through the new cut in the wall. Do not use this particular old work box as it will not be able to fit the GFCI receptacle in it.


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## bud16415 (Nov 2, 2016)

KULTULZ said:


> It all depends on the total load on the bedroom circuit. TV, cable box, DVD, sound system? A booster box to watch porno...
> 
> An overload will trip the breaker not the GFCI.



I know that. The reason I would place the GFCI in the bath room and not the bedroom is first I think they should be located in the area where they are most likely to be tripped. Secondly in a bedroom someone will place a dresser in front of it. I dont know the first thing about a seat warmer or why anyone would want one, but if you are mixing 120v with twisting wires and salty water and bare feet and poor aim, I know I would want one.


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## Snoonyb (Nov 2, 2016)

glouie said:


> I guess if it consistently tripping the breaker, well just uninstall the bidet and leave the new outlet unused.
> 
> It's a always on, but I think it only draws power when you sit on it.  The seat is heated, and the water is only heated when you use it.



A GFCI will also trip when there is an instant high demand, so if there is a method of testing using an existing GFCI, you might consider that.


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## KULTULZ (Nov 2, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> A GFCI will also trip when there is an instant high demand, so if there is a method of testing using an existing GFCI, you might consider that.





> *Operation*
> 
> A  GFCI works by measuring the current leaving one side of a power source  (the so-called "live" or "hot wire"), and comparing it to current  returning on the other (the "neutral" side). If they are not equal, then  some of the current must be leaking in an unwanted way, and the GFCI  shuts the power off.


*SOURCE* - https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/GFCI


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## KULTULZ (Nov 2, 2016)

bud16415 said:


> The reason I would place the GFCI in the bath room and not the bedroom is first I think they should be located in the area where they are most likely to be tripped.



I would take it one step further. I would put a blank face GFCI above the tank to easily reset it (the actual receptacle behind the toilet - away from any possible free-fire zone) and with a duplex one can also energize their _bidet spray_... :rofl:


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## glouie (Nov 2, 2016)

afjes_2016 said:


> Either outlet, it does not matter whether you add an additional outlet from one or the other. However, please check the conductor count in the outlet you are running the new line from. You can not have an overloaded outlet box. Making it simple, if using 12 gauge wire there should only be no more than 2 romex cables in the box. If 14 gauge you can have up to 3. Here is a chart for future reference that helps you calculate the number of conductors allowed in a given size box.
> 
> Only inches from; be sure though when you plan where you will put the new outlet box on the other side of the wall you have sufficient space. Meaning, don't put the boxes back to back in error or you will not be able to put the new box in the wall as it will hit the back of the other box on the other side of the wall. Also when planning where to put the new outlet box because it is not right up against a stud. Leave about 4 inches from the stub to the new placement. When cutting the hole for the new outlet box be sure to cut it evenly and not damage the sheet rock near the cuts. It is important that the sheet rock is in tact by the cut edge so that the clamps on the old work box has something to grip to or the box will never be able to be tightened enough to stay in the wall. Since you said the house was built in 1997 I would assume it is only sheet rock on the wall studs (if there is tile on the bathroom wall where the new box will go be sure you figure that thickness) along with the thickness of the sheet rock). If so you should be ok. The clamps on the old work box will only open so far. If the wall material is too thick you won't be able to open the clamps enough to get a grip on the wall without the clamp falling off the screw holding it.
> 
> If you will be using an "old work box" (this is a 20 cubic inch box, it will hold the GFCI receptalce nicely, be sure though that the depth of the wall cavity can handle it; you can also use the 14 inch which is not quite as deep but will take more to get the GFCI receptacle in it) be sure that you cut the hole for the box carefully. Don't make the hole too large or the clamps will not be able to do their job and the box will pull through the new cut in the wall. Do not use this particular old work box as it will not be able to fit the GFCI receptacle in it.


 
Yes..   thanks for the tips..  :thbup:

Would temporarily running a heavy duty extension cable from the bedroom outlet to the bathroom to plug the toilet seat in, be a fair test to see if installing will trip the circuit breaker?


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## Snoonyb (Nov 2, 2016)

glouie said:


> Yes..   thanks for the tips..  :thbup:
> 
> Would temporarily running a heavy duty extension cable from the bedroom outlet to the bathroom to plug the toilet seat in, be a fair test to see if installing will trip the circuit breaker?



Only if the recep. is powered by an AFCI protected breaker. Both GFCI and AFCI are sensitive to instant differences, while standard breakers will fail, they are less sensitive. And you are only pulling 5+amps.


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## glouie (Nov 2, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Only if the recep. is powered by an AFCI protected breaker. Both GFCI and AFCI are sensitive to instant differences, while standard breakers will fail, they are less sensitive. And you are only pulling 5+amps.


 
what is AFCI?

I'm not as concerned about the GFCI tripping, as I'm reasonably sure it should hold, since this is a pretty standard item for some bathrooms.   I'm concerned about the increased load on the circuit overall causing the stander breaker in the breaker box to trip.


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## nealtw (Nov 2, 2016)

AFCI breaker will trip when there is an arc that might not trip a regular breaker


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## Snoonyb (Nov 2, 2016)

glouie said:


> what is AFCI?



Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter and is current code, where it has been adopted, for bedrooms, laundry rooms and additional areas as adopted. 



glouie said:


> I'm not as concerned about the GFCI tripping, as I'm reasonably sure it should hold, since this is a pretty standard item for some bathrooms.   I'm concerned about the increased load on the circuit overall causing the stander breaker in the breaker box to trip.



A GFCI is a Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor and in your case, is the safety device for the recep. your seat warmer will be powered from.

If you are just concerned about the breaker that controls the circuit you are adding the GFCI too, then just test from that circuit.


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## KULTULZ (Nov 2, 2016)

glouie said:


> I'm not as concerned about the GFCI tripping, as I'm reasonably sure it should hold, since this is a pretty standard item for some bathrooms.



:down:

I wonder how many have said the same before they were lit up? 



> I'm concerned about the increased load on the circuit overall causing the stander breaker in the breaker box to trip.


I think I have read more than one advisement that a circuit load calculation should be performed.


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## glouie (Nov 2, 2016)

KULTULZ said:


> :down:
> 
> I wonder how many have said the same before they were lit up?
> 
> I think I have read more than one advisement that a circuit load calculation should be performed.



I don't understand what you mean by "lit up".  Isn't the point behind the gfci to prevent shock?    Thinking that the gfci won't trip in s independent if whether the circuit load is too much. 

As for the load calculation, I have no problem doing it, just thinking of other ways to do a practical test of the circuit prior to cutting into the drywall.


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## nealtw (Nov 2, 2016)

Run the extension cord and plug it in turn it on, turn on anything else on the same circuit, test done.
GFCI read when power goes to ground and trips. Circuit breaker trips when the load is to much.

So if you are touching something live and also touch ground the GFCI will trip. If it didn't trip and the load you were providing was more than the breaker can handle it would trip.


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## KULTULZ (Nov 3, 2016)

...sigh... :hide:


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## afjes_2016 (Nov 3, 2016)

glouie: I just want to clarify some things here. You may know it but may not but figured I would chime in.

GFCI and AFCI responses are not the same.
GFCI is "ground fault protection"
AFCI is "arc fault protection"

Ground fault protection: In the case of a GFCI receptacle (or breaker), the electronics monitor the current coming in on the hot and measures the current returning through the neutral. If there is more of a difference than 4 to 6 miliamps it will trip. This protection is mainly for personal protection against shock.

Arc fault protection: This breaker/outlet monitors arc faults. Normally it is referred to as a combination arc fault interruptor (CAFCI). Many lay people confuse this with thinking it protects both ground faults (like GFCI) and arc faults; this is not true, combination in this sense means it protects arc faults that are either in series or in parallel. So in this case it protects mainly to prevent a fire from wires arcing. 

As far as the use of an extension cord to test the draw on the unit as to how much it pulls or if it will trip the breaker is (ok), and I use OK with caution. Reason, we don't know how much the unit pulls in amps. If you are going to use an extension cord for testing then I would suggest that you use a high quality extension cord with at least 12 gauge conductors, don't use a cheap cord that you would use for a table lamp etc. Also make the you use one that is as short as possible just to reach from the receptacle you will plug it in to (which is the one you will tap from) to the bathroom to reach the unit plug. This keeps any voltage drop to a minimum. Be careful with the extension cord in the bathroom as it is not GFCI protected so don't lay the end on the floor where it may get wet.

This test is only a fair test to say the least. Meaning, let's say you leave it plugged into the extension cord for a week and it does not trip the breaker. You decide you are ok and install the new receptacle. Then several days later it trips the breaker; why, because your wife just ran the vacuum cleaner and it was plugged into a receptacle at the moment that is on the same circuit.

Keep in mind it is best to run a dedicated circuit for the unit. Although this may not be practical or within your budget at this point. So we go with you intentions. It is a matter of what ends up being plugged into that circuit any time in the future that may draw more power than the circuit can handle and trips the breaker. It is the same thing as having a space heater plugged into a receptacle that is on the same circuit as a vacuum cleaner. _If the two pull for power at the same time_ and the power consumption is greater than that of the breaker it will trip.

A possible way to determine what is on that breaker is a simple test that may take about 20 minutes to 30. Shut off all the breakers in the house except for the one that you will be tapping into. Then go around with a lamp or radio and plug it into all the receptacles and see which ones remain live. These are the ones on that circuit. Then test your lights to see which ones still light. Now see what is normally on those live receptacles that you use on a daily basis and see what their draws are. If they are small draws in total then you should be ok. Keep in mind which ones are on that circuit and avoid plugging in any high power consuming devices on those receptacles such as a vacuum cleaner, space heater etc. This should hold you over pretty well then.


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## afjes_2016 (Nov 3, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Only if the recep. is powered by an AFCI protected breaker. Both GFCI and AFCI are sensitive to instant differences, while standard breakers will fail, they are less sensitive. And you are only pulling 5+amps.



In this case it does not matter if the breaker is an AFCI breaker. An AFCI breaker monitors to see if there is an arc fault. If the unit is not faulty and there are no arc faults anywhere else on the circuit the breaker will not trip.

It is not the fact that the GFCI and AFCI breakers are sensitive to instant differences they are sensitive to their applications for two totally different types of protection. Also standard breakers are not less sensitive. Standard breakers do not test for faults that GFCI and AFCI test for. Standard breakers are sensitive for what they monitor, dead shorts and over loads.

It is not the case that a standard breaker will fail it is the case that a standard breaker does not contain the same electronics testing for such faults. A standard breaker will (should) only trip with an over load on the circuit (being higher than the breaker amp) or a dead short.

5 amps has nothing to do with this in this case. Even if the unit pulls only 2 amps and there is a arc fault the AFCI breaker will trip. Even if the unit pulls only 2 amps and the GFCI receptacle trips there is a ground fault. Amps have nothing to do with the protection factors of these two devices except for the circuit total pull itself rated by the breaker either 15 or 20 amps. If you pull more than 15 amps on a 15 amp breaker it will trip, whether it is a AFCI, GFCI or standard breaker (respectively the same for a 20 amp breaker).


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## Snoonyb (Nov 3, 2016)

Thanks for making my point.


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## afjes_2016 (Nov 3, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> A GFCI will also trip when there is an instant high demand, so if there is a method of testing using an existing GFCI, you might consider that.



This is not correct. A GFCI will not trip because there is an instant high demand. Whether a breaker or receptacle does not matter. Again, the GFCI receptacle will trip because it sense a ground fault, not because there is an instant high demand. If a GFCI receptacle and something is plugged in that pulls 2 amps and then you plug something else in that pulls 5 amps the receptacle will not trip because there is an instant high demand. It will trip if there is a ground fault. The same goes for a GFCI breaker. If a device is turned on that pulls 2 amps and then at the same time a device is turned on that pulls 5 amps it will not trip unless it sense a ground fault in one of the devices that was just turned on not because of the sudden higher demand; again of course if it does not exceed the rating amp 15 of 20 of the breaker.


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## Snoonyb (Nov 3, 2016)

afjes_2016 said:


> This is not correct. A GFCI will not trip because there is an instant high demand. Whether a breaker or receptacle does not matter. Again, the GFCI receptacle will trip because it sense a ground fault, not because there is an instant high demand. If a GFCI receptacle and something is plugged in that pulls 2 amps and then you plug something else in that pulls 5 amps the receptacle will not trip because there is an instant high demand. It will trip if there is a ground fault. The same goes for a GFCI breaker. If a device is turned on that pulls 2 amps and then at the same time a device is turned on that pulls 5 amps it will not trip unless it sense a ground fault in one of the devices that was just turned on not because of the sudden higher demand; again of course if it does not exceed the rating amp 15 of 20 of the breaker.



This is my personal experience with 3 non capacitor start compressors and a 15Amp saw, out of the box, on a 20amp GFCI dedicated circuit.

So, you can quote all the theory you want, but I've learned not to power field operated tools from either GFCI or AFCI circuits.


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## afjes_2016 (Nov 3, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> This is my personal experience with 3 non capacitor start compressors and a 15Amp saw, out of the box, on a 20amp GFCI dedicated circuit.
> 
> So, you can quote all the theory you want, but I've learned not to power field operated tools from either GFCI or AFCI circuits.



Sounds like the circuit was overloaded.

It is not that I am quoting "theory" it is that I am explaining to a "lay person" the OP what the AFCI and GFCI theories are compared to a standard breaker. It is important that lay persons understand the basic concepts of the devices and the purposes they serve for thier better understanding of their individual and unique applications for protection factors. Under normal standard residential application for house hold devices the breakers, receptacles function as theory goes.


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## KULTULZ (Nov 3, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> This is my personal experience with 3 non capacitor start compressors and a 15Amp saw, out of the box, on a 20amp GFCI dedicated circuit.
> 
> So, *you can quote all the theory you want*, but I've learned not to power field operated tools from either GFCI or AFCI circuits.



What the gentleman has stated is fact, not theory. It bears listening to.

Even on a work site, their are GFCI provisions.

You might want to measure the start amps of your CHI-COM compressors and saw.


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## Snoonyb (Nov 3, 2016)

afjes_2016 said:


> Sounds like the circuit was overloaded.



"20amp GFCI dedicated circuit", with nothing but my equip. being powered from it.




afjes_2016 said:


> It is not that I am quoting "theory" it is that I am explaining to a "lay person" the OP what the AFCI and GFCI theories are compared to a standard breaker. It is important that lay persons understand the basic concepts of the devices and the purposes they serve for thier better understanding of their individual and unique applications for protection factors. Under normal standard residential application for house hold devices the breakers, receptacles function as theory goes.



I used to "get off into the weeds", as well, but stopped when peoples eyes glazed over.


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## Snoonyb (Nov 3, 2016)

KULTULZ said:


> What the gentleman has stated is fact, not theory. It bears listening to.
> 
> Even on a work site, their are GFCI provisions.
> 
> You might want to measure the start amps of your CHI-COM compressors and saw.



Since you have ***-umed you know  my tool purchasing habits so well, which of my total collection of american made tools are "CHI-COM?

Like I said, my personal experience.


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## KULTULZ (Nov 3, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Since you have ***-umed you know  my tool purchasing habits so well, which of my total collection of american made tools are "CHI-COM?



AMERICAN MADE TOOLS... 

Which America, Mexico (North America), Central or Southern America?

Or your tools must be fifty years old and the motors need to be rebuilt to lessen initial amperage draw.


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## Snoonyb (Nov 3, 2016)

Can't name the "alleged" Chi-Com?


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## KULTULZ (Nov 3, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Can't name the "alleged" Chi-Com?



No, 

Cleo left the Psychotic Hotline a few years back and ever since my crystal ball has been out of focus.


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## nealtw (Nov 3, 2016)

I have a little experience working tools in the rain, given a choice I would not use a GFCI. When a saw is running and you touch the metal frame you will get a tingle just like you always have and the gfci just laughs at you.
But it will pick up every nick and scratch in the cord on a wet day when it was never enough to pop a breaker.


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## afjes_2016 (Nov 3, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> "20amp GFCI dedicated circuit", with nothing but my equip. being powered from it.


This statement really says "nothing" as stated " as is". Sorry. Nothing but your "equipment" being powered? What is the draw of your equipment then on the 20amp circuit; if it does not state on the equipment the watt draw then figure the standard formula; can you? What is the total watt draw of your equipment? Does it exceed the total allowed by the dedicated circuit? OHM's Law, have we applied it to this point. I don't think so. Run two vacuum cleaners on the same 15 or 20amp residential circuit and more than likely it will trip the breaker; GFCI, AFCI, standard does not matter. "Overload"!



Snoonyb said:


> I used to "get off into the weeds", as well, but stopped when peoples eyes glazed over.



Ok, now what is this supposed to mean? Is this statement contributing to the forum's purpose of extending help, field experience, knowledge and assistance to DIYselfer's that ask for help from us? I don't think so. Really??

Does not matter who manufacturers the tools; OHMs law will always prevail!!!!!!!

I am starting to see that almost every thread turns out to be a debate or a "challenge of the heads". We are here to assist home owner's. If we have a difference of opinion other than "fact" then let's please state it with respect!!


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## Snoonyb (Nov 3, 2016)

It means that I used to indulge in the type of lengthy explanations of functionality, until I repeatedly saw peoples eyes glaze over, exactly like the statement said. So, instead of just speaking, because I was of the assumption what I said was a display of my impornt, and to hear the sound of my own voice.

I simplified, the KISS principal, and got the point across and got paid and, don't do any warranty recalls, yet.


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## glouie (Nov 4, 2016)

okay.. back on topic..  

based on this website.. http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/measuring_circuit_amps.html    the total load on my circuit is:

TV:  2.5 Amps
Ceiling Fan:   .8 Amps   (not sure if the fan is on the same circuit, will check later)
Roku:   .06 Amps  (6 watts @ 120V)
Lamp:  .83 Amps
Toilet Seat:  5.5 Amps

Total:  ~10 amps on a 15 Amp Circuit

I realize the website has estimated power requirements.. I'll check the actual devices.. but for now, I think I should be good to go..


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## bud16415 (Nov 4, 2016)

glouie said:


> okay.. back on topic..
> 
> based on this website..  the total load on my circuit is:
> 
> ...



:thbup::thbup::thbup:


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