# Shed Exterior T-111



## CallMeVilla (Mar 31, 2012)

Planning a shed and wanted some input.  I want to use T-111 siding as the exterior wall (we are in Southern CA).  My question is about the bottom edge.

Leaving the bottom edge raw (stained) might not shed the water when it rains.  My worry is rot can start there.  Is there a metal drip edge I can apply along the bottom edge of the T-111 to divert the runoff and prevent it from soaking into the bottom of the siding?

Or, should I use a trim board along the bottom?  I could run a 45 degree cut along the top of the trim then caulk the you-know-what out of the upper edge.

Thoughts?  How do you handle this is bad weather locations?


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## oldognewtrick (Mar 31, 2012)

Why do you want to use T-111?


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## CallMeVilla (Mar 31, 2012)

Because I can?  We use it all the time in CA. Plain T-111 is rated for sheathing. Biggest negative is that it drinks paint and has to be primed.  Shed will be wrapped first and T-111 nailed directly to the studs.

NOW, can you address my basic question?


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## oldognewtrick (Apr 1, 2012)

CMV, first, where ever you have a cut, prime and paint all cut edges before installation with a quality outdoor paint and primmer. At the top edge you should have a "Z" flashing that runs down the stud, turns out over the top of the siding, then turns down over the top, outside edge of the siding. I personally would stay away from trim boards on T-111. Caulking the edges of the trim board will only let moisture get behind and rot the siding when the caulking fails. Keep the bottom of the shed the farthest away from the ground as possible to prevent water from splashing up on the sides. Maintain the paint and hope for the best.


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## CallMeVilla (Apr 2, 2012)

Found this writeup and it helps too:
_Galvanized Z-flashing, so-called because of its Z-shaped profile, is used to keep water from getting through the horizontal joints between sheets of plywood siding. You set the flashing on the top edge of each piece of plywood on a fat bead of caulk and hold it in place with just the heads of roofing nails driven into the sheathing. Don't nail through the flashing itself or it will eventually leak. Overlap the ends of the flashing by at least 2 inches and run a bead of caulk between the pieces at the overlap. And just before the plywood goes on, caulk along the top edge of the metal as extra protection against water. 

Before installing a new plywood section, seal its edges to prevent them from soaking up moisture. Use either a primer, if you plan to paint it, or a water-repellent preservative, if you plan to use stain. Also, as you fasten the plywood in place, make sure its bottom edge is 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the flashing's horizontal leg so water can drain away easily from the joint. Finally, unless you like the look of weathered plywood, apply the first coat of finish within two weeks of installing it, before sunlight and water start to degrade the wood surface. _


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## joecaption (Apr 5, 2012)

There's many better options then T-111 that would be far less maintance in the long run, that's what the other poster was implying.
Vinyl, James Hardee just to name a few.
There is no need to wrap the studs before the T-111 goes on, in fact it may do more harm then good.

If you do use the T-111 the key is to not have it within 12" of the ground, and seal it on the bottom and up the back side with primer and paint or better yet solid stain before it's installed.


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## mabloodhound (Apr 10, 2012)

Joe's right on the last snetence, but as for other siding that he mentions, you'll pay a lot of money to cover that shed.   Your original idea is OK, but I would use 3/4"  1x6 AZEK or a similar PVC trim around the base and then the T-111 above that.   You can use the "Z" flashing regular 3/4" window flashing on top of that and eliminate the 45 angle cut.   You are right to be concerned about the water getting sucked up into the T-111 but it can be doe just fine.


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