# Loosing water for 10-20 seconds.



## tooltime (Jun 20, 2006)

Hello, 
I am having an issue with my water, the water will shut off for roughly 10-20 seconds on its own and restart. It happens both in the bath and kitchen, so its not something in the line in my opinion.
I am on a well system,  and I am thinking that my well pump is  not doing to well. I think  the one time I ran the water upstairs and ran down to watch the pump, it didnt kick on  until like 10 psi. It does work, but from looking at the pressure gauge it is reading around 20-30 psi on average. The pump is connected to a small 20 gallon or so tank , guessing its the pressure /water holding tank.

Is it my well pump? 
Any troubleshooting I can do to? 
If it is my well pump, any recommendations for a new one?

At this point, I don't want to call a pro, and be told  I need ot purchase soemthing unneccessary. 
If I left out any needed info, jsut ask and I will do my best to give an accurate respose  
Thank you for your assistance.


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## glennjanie (Jun 20, 2006)

Hello ToolTime:
Yes, it does sound like the pump is on the fritz. However, most well pumps have an adjusting screw to set the pressure; you could jack it up a little more. The expansion tank also may have an air valve on it (looks just like the ones on your tires) and the air pressure may need to be adjusted. This air is held in a rubber bladder in the tank and helps to even out the pressure while the pump cycles. You could push the valve stem and make sure it is air rather than water that comes out; sometimes the bladder deteriorates with age and leaks. If the pump is downhill from the house it adds pressure on the pump making it quite a strain to pump water to the second story especially.
Let us know how you come out.
Glenn


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## tooltime (Jun 20, 2006)

Thank you glennjanie! 
The pump sits in a  small room underneath my front porch in the basement.

According to this pdf instuction manual my pump is a J5(S), GB.  There is a chart on pg 8 of the PDF for PSI settings, but  its not  clear to me how to adjust the PSI to begin with.
My pump set up is different from the  images in the manual.
Nor do I see  a valve   as it says in the manual After the pump is primed and flowing water at a steady pressure you should open a few faucets and adjust the pressure control valve to the pressure listed in the chart. To increase pressure close the valve, AV5 or AV22, or turn the AV2screw clockwise. See Chart 1. 

Some images to see what Im working with:
















Goulds J Plus
Model No. HQ243921
Motor- A.O. Smith
Model C48A93A06

Hope this helps you, help me


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## manhattan42 (Jun 20, 2006)

The symptoms you describe can also be caused by nothing related to the pressure tank.

You could have a ruptured water service line from or in the well that is causing air to infiltrate the system and lower the pressure.

A typical symptom of a ruptured water service line is to have a full flow of water an then suddenly nothing..followed by air spurting and a returned flow of water.

Unfortunatley a ruptured water service line of well line needs professional attention.


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## Square Eye (Jun 20, 2006)

Hey Manhattan!

Would that be kind of like having a hole in a straw? I hate that when I'm drinking and driving and I get down to a hole in a straw.


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## inspectorD (Jun 20, 2006)

Soda pop right Square Eye? 
I have also seen where the line that shoots the water down the well has a loose clamp which lets the air in. Look for a small leak in any lines as Manhattan stated.
What is all that staining on the wall in your picture?


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## tooltime (Jun 20, 2006)

inspectorD said:
			
		

> What is all that staining on the wall in your picture?


I'm guessing one of the lines coming from the well broke/leaked. I could ask the original owner and see how long ago it happened, but I know it  has been a very long time.
The small rust stain fromt he first and second picture was fromteh  clamps holdign the original wiring..  they kinda rusted away. I took pt 2x4 and ran new, heavier 10guage wiring, and secured to that rather than back to the bare masonry wall.

There is no leakign that I can find in the room from the well system, but I guess I could try and take the  fitting with the hoses off the floor and peer down in there.


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## glennjanie (Jun 21, 2006)

Hello ToolTime:
The pressure switch is usually in the electrical junction box on the side of the pump. Take the cover off and it will probably be a slotted screw right in the middle. It appears to be a Jet pump which pumps water down one line to force it up the other line and Goulds is a good brand that has been around all my life. I still say there is an air filled bladder in the storage tank; look in the center of the top of the tank (or center of the bottom). The other guys also have some good points that bear checking out. I hope one of us has been of some help.
Glenn


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## tooltime (Jun 26, 2006)

Helllo all, it's been a couple days and things have gone from annoying to  no water at all! The pump does not turn on what so ever. The pressure guage reads zero. The breaker is fine, and yes even the wall switch is on  
I did try to test the pressure tank, there is soemthing that almost looks like an air fitting, but when I tried to press the seated abll on top, nothing would happen. I dont think it moved at all.
I do  know where the junction box is, I ran some good wiring to it (10 guage) which is supposed to have less resistance=logner motor life on the pump. unfortunately, with the pump apparently seeming to be dead, it is pretty pointless for me to  look/adjust the pressure screw. 
I had called the company we got our Iron Filter through to pirice out a well pump... but they dont deal with any of that. They suggested I call a well service company. I have a well service fellow coming out tomorrow. Hope I don't get shafted on price


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## glennjanie (Jun 26, 2006)

Hello Tooltime:
It appears your trouble all the time was the pump shutting off and restarting. I have used a jet pump in the past and didn't get very good service from it. It could pump from deeper depths, just with less pressure and volume. That is the trade off with jet pumps. 
When the well service man comes out I would suggest checking on a new submersible pump with new pipe (it will also take some additional wire to reach the pump). I think you would be much happpier with the preformance.
Glenn


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## tooltime (Jun 27, 2006)

I am not sure what to think, just have to see what this fellow says tomorrow(today). I was  in there today wiring up a plug outlet in the room for the Iron Filter (which was ran out of the room and plugged in). In the process of tacking the  Iron Filter cord, I had to raise up on the  copper pipe coming from the pressure tank. When that was all done, I went and turned the breaker back on, went ino the room to  make sure the Iron Filter was ticking (timer)  and the well pump turned on!  When it stopped the guage was reading 50 PSI which is the highest I have seen it to date. Wierdness. Ok,  I'll keep ya posted when I get something figured out.  
Oh yah, before I forget this time... Thank you all for the support


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## tooltime (Jun 27, 2006)

The well servie guy, Greg, fixed the problem today! He replaced the switch, and  now it will turn itself on at 30psi, pump up to 50 psi. He told me it should never  go below 20 before turning on, and yet it was dropping to 0  as of late. He informed me there was a diaphram in the swith,  and it had water in it so he figured it had a leak and  that's what was causing my problems. And to top it off it cost me $84 ($59 for the service call, $26 for the switch). So all in all, I am happy that this  situtation if finally resolved... _so far as I know_, and thank you all for your suggestions.


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