# ceiling wood plank installation question



## tonester (Oct 21, 2015)

Hi all, I just signed up in this board hoping to learn something and get some answers to my problem.

I am looking to replace the ceiling in my family room from the popcorn look to a wood plank ceiling. This room has a flat ceiling. It does not have an attic space.  My initial plan is to keep the exposed ceiling rafters and install the 4" wood planks perpendicular to the ceiling rafters. I started scraping off the popcorn ceiling and it looks like they were sprayed onto some type of acoustic boards rather than drywall when they were initially installed. So my plan of using liquid nails on the wood planks and gluing them directly onto the drywall is dashed. Does anyone have any suggestions as how I can can install the wood planks onto the ceiling?













thanks


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## nealtw (Oct 21, 2015)

Welcome to the site.
Just want to clarrify a few details.
Is this an outside addittion? Is there insuation or is there some needed? How big are the joists or rafters, 2x4 or 2x6 or?


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## beachguy005 (Oct 21, 2015)

I don't know that I would of trusted glue holding a board overhead on the sheetrock.  I would either install something like 1x1 strapping in the top of the joist against the ceiling, running the length of the inside of the bay on both sides.  That would give you something solid to nail the boards on to.
Or I would run the strapping or even a piece of molding 2" down from the ceiling and just lay the boards in like ceiling tiles.  I think the second option is better because you will support the boards and trim it out at the same time so as not to see the cut ends of the boards.
Frankly, if you're going to be painting it, you could just use white aluminum L channel used for installing ceiling tiles.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 21, 2015)

tonester said:


> Hi all, I just signed up in this board hoping to learn something and get some answers to my problem.
> 
> I am looking to replace the ceiling in my family room from the popcorn look to a wood plank ceiling. This room has a flat ceiling. It does not have an attic space.  My initial plan is to keep the exposed ceiling rafters and install the 4" wood planks perpendicular to the ceiling rafters. I started scraping off the popcorn ceiling and it looks like they were sprayed onto some type of acoustic boards rather than drywall when they were initially installed. So my plan of using liquid nails on the wood planks and gluing them directly onto the drywall is dashed. Does anyone have any suggestions as how I can can install the wood planks onto the ceiling?



The material is likely cellotex which is an insulation material used in your roof configuration.

Any material you use will need an additional molding attached to the rafters to keep it in place, so your plan is not lost, you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8"
drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex.


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## tonester (Oct 22, 2015)

nealtw said:


> Welcome to the site.
> Just want to clarrify a few details.
> Is this an outside addittion? Is there insuation or is there some needed? How big are the joists or rafters, 2x4 or 2x6 or?



This space is an addition. This used to be a breezeway between my garage and the main house. There are currently no insulation. The existing joists are 3x4. The spacing between each rafters are 30" on center.

based on some of the responses here, is this what you guys mean?


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## nealtw (Oct 22, 2015)

That is waht the are talking about, why wouldn't you just cover everything with the wood attached with real nails.


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## beachguy005 (Oct 22, 2015)

Your sketch is the right idea but as I noted earlier, my second option would be about 2" lower and instead of strapping I would use 3/4" cove molding or shoe mold and just set the boards in place.  That would give you support for the boards and trimmed to cover the cut ends of those boards. Nail on the molding and no nailing needed for the boards.


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## nealtw (Oct 22, 2015)

beachguy005 said:


> Your sketch is the right idea but as I noted earlier, my second option would be about 2" lower and instead of strapping I would use 3/4" cove molding or shoe mold and just set the boards in place.  That would give you support for the boards and trimmed to cover the cut ends of those boards. Nail on the molding and no nailing needed for the boards.



The area likely isn't big enough to work a board in after the molding is in.


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## bud16415 (Oct 22, 2015)

I like the idea of beachguyoo5 but I would figure out a way to hold them up a little until I put the molding on. Actually a combination of both plans is what I might do because of the lumpy surface and needing to hold them up until you get the trim on. 1x1 strip down both sides, cut the wood 1/16 short and pin nail it up, then the trim. If that&#8217;s the look you are going for. 

If it was mine I like the look Neal&#8217;s idea would produce better. I think a ceiling like that is going to look too busy with the joists and wood and trim. Not sure if you are painting the new ceiling but if you don&#8217;t with the white joists it will look real busy. Going over it you could leave it wood grain if you wanted.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 22, 2015)

tonester said:


> This space is an addition. This used to be a breezeway between my garage and the main house. There are currently no insulation. The existing joists are 3x4. The spacing between each rafters are 30" on center.
> 
> based on some of the responses here, is this what you guys mean?



That is one method, however I would question the wisdom of creating a void, that were there to be a roof leak, how long would it continue before detection and what would be growing, in there, in the mean time.


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## bud16415 (Oct 22, 2015)

With wood planks I think a roof leak would show up pretty fast.


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## beachguy005 (Oct 22, 2015)

nealtw said:


> The area likely isn't big enough to work a board in after the molding is in.




Depending on the thickness of the boards he's using you would just need enough area to tilt them up into the space. As if installing a tile in a t-bar ceiling. 
Alternately he leave an opening at one end and just slide the plank pieces into place.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 22, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> With wood planks I think a roof leak would show up pretty fast.



And the OP has said only "wood planks", and has not clarified the material beyond that generalization.

Wood planks shrink and leave spaces, T&G mitigates that affect and would prolong the the time.


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## tonester (Oct 22, 2015)

I'm using pine T&G wood planks that are about 1/4" thick.

you guys have a point about leaving a void between the planks and the cellotex board. Are there anything I can get from my local home depot to fill in that void?


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## beachguy005 (Oct 22, 2015)

Why would you either want to, or need to, fill the void above the planks?


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## nealtw (Oct 22, 2015)

beachguy005 said:


> Why would you either want to, or need to, fill the void above the planks?



More insulation is always a good idea, what about filling the space with a foam board.


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## beachguy005 (Oct 22, 2015)

nealtw said:


> More insulation is always a good idea, what about filling the space with a foam board.



  I understand the value of insulation... but the OP was going to just glue up drywall and never mentioned wanting to, or needing to, add insulation.  If you do need insulation, just fill them with fiberglass and sheetrock over the entire ceiling.  Given that they're 30" OC, you're going to want to cross strap it at 12 or 16 OC to prevent sag.


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## tonester (Oct 22, 2015)

I wasn't planning on gluing any drywall over the cellotex boards. I don't think it's possible to glue anything onto these cellotex boards. I'm not against the idea of adding insulation in the void between the wood planks and cellotex. 

so is foam board insulation the way to go? or use fiberglass insulation?


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## nealtw (Oct 22, 2015)

If you are going to add 1x2 to the sides of the rafters, that would give that space to add insulation. That is not a lot but if you are interested this would be the time to at least think about it. I think spliting fiberglass to be 1 1/2 inch thick and try to keep it place while you work on the boards. Foam could be cut to fit snug and it will stay in place and it comes in the thicknesses that you might work. You will have to consider cost and R value and how you can make it work and whether it would be worth it.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 22, 2015)

tonester said:


> I'm using pine T&G wood planks that are about 1/4" thick.
> 
> you guys have a point about leaving a void between the planks and the cellotex board. Are there anything I can get from my local home depot to fill in that void?



CAN WE ALL SLOW THIS DOWN AND GET BACK TO THE ORIGINAL QUESTION?

This was my original response which went BALLISTIC FROM THERE;"The material is likely cellotex which is an insulation material used in your roof configuration.

Any material you use will need an additional molding attached to the rafters to keep it in place, so your plan is not lost, you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8"
drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex."

T&G is not 1/4" material but is 3/4" material and can successfully be placed over a drywall or not based upon if it is 1X6 T&G which will bridge the seams in the cellotex without difficulty resulting is an appropriate finished product, however you have to address the whole story from the get-go.


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## tonester (Oct 22, 2015)

Snoonyb: i'm using this stuff from Lowes. I plan to paint it after they are installed.

"_you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8" drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex_"

can you briefly explain how do I do this? Sorry, this is the first time i'm tackling something like this.


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## beachguy005 (Oct 22, 2015)

Snoonyb said:


> CAN WE ALL SLOW THIS DOWN AND GET BACK TO THE ORIGINAL QUESTION?
> 
> This was my original response which went BALLISTIC FROM THERE;&quot;The material is likely cellotex which is an insulation material used in your roof configuration.
> 
> ...



  You feeling left out there Pookie?  Frankly, much like the OP, I didn't understand what you were talking about....bridging the whaat?   As for t&g not coming in 1/4"...you're wrong there.  I believe he's talking about bead board planks which are 1/4" and are t&g.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 22, 2015)

beachguy005 said:


> You feeling left out there Pookie?  Frankly, much like the OP, I didn't understand what you were talking about....bridging the whaat?   As for t&g not coming in 1/4"...you're wrong there.  I believe he's talking about bead board planks which are 1/4" and are t&g.



I'll explain it to you, when you, if you can, get away from editing the quotes.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 22, 2015)

tonester said:


> Snoonyb: i'm using this stuff from Lowes. I plan to paint it after they are installed.
> 
> "_you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8" drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex_"
> 
> can you briefly explain how do I do this? Sorry, this is the first time i'm tackling something like this.



What stuff from LOWES?


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## tonester (Oct 23, 2015)

sorry i forgot the link earlier. I'm using these wood planks that I got from Lowes

http://www.lowes.com/pd_304510-17587-PNVG0802_1z0ufh0__?productId=3056263&pl=1


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## beachguy005 (Oct 23, 2015)

Snoonyb said:


> I'll explain it to you, when you, if you can, get away from editing the quotes.



  Hmmm, another thing you're saying I don't understand.  How was I "editing the quotes"?


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## Snoonyb (Oct 23, 2015)

beachguy005 said:


> Hmmm, another thing you're saying I don't understand.  How was I "editing the quotes"?



Please take note of the "





> ", which appears before and after a QUOTE, when a comment is QUOTED, and not cut and pasted, which is in effect, editing.
> 
> Here's another;
> 
> ...


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## Snoonyb (Oct 23, 2015)

tonester said:


> sorry i forgot the link earlier. I'm using these wood planks that I got from Lowes
> 
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_304510-17587-PNVG0802_1z0ufh0__?productId=3056263&pl=1



Thank you, that clears it up.

Regarding applying 1/4" or 3/8" drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex.
This is a method of bridging inherent deformities in the surface of the cellotex which can occur in cellotex, naturally from aging or from the removal of the acoustic material.

However, if you feel, and you are there, that the surface is stable and that the seams can successfully be bridged without some minor filling, than proceed.

Some steps are prudent for aesthetics and some are not necessary and simply time consuming.


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## nealtw (Oct 23, 2015)

I see a couple problems here, 3x4 rafters are pretty light for carrying much more weight.
At 30 on center anything light weight may sag.
Glueing to this insulation board dosn't sound like an option as it would likely fail if too much weight was added to it.
Perhaps unvented soffet should be looked at, light weight eazy to install and white already.


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## beachguy005 (Oct 23, 2015)

Snoonyb said:


> Please take note of the "
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## tonester (Oct 23, 2015)

nealtw said:


> I see a couple problems here, 3x4 rafters are pretty light for carrying much more weight.
> At 30 on center anything light weight may sag.
> Glueing to this insulation board dosn't sound like an option as it would likely fail if too much weight was added to it.
> Perhaps unvented soffet should be looked at, light weight eazy to install and white already.



I never heard of unvented soffits before. They do look like something that might work. I already have all the wood plank materials purchased and delivered and unfortunately I might be stuck with the wood plank options.

I see your concern about the 3x4 rafters being not strong enough to carry the extra weights. My room is about 20x20. The 3x4 rafters spans the entire room but they are also supported midway by a giant 6x11. Is there a creative solution to add some perpendicular spans between the new furring strips so the wood planks can have something to attach to at their midpoints?

this is a photo of the giant 6x11 piece of lumber that is supporting the 3x4 in the middle of the room.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 23, 2015)

tonester said:


> I never heard of unvented soffits before. They do look like something that might work. I already have all the wood plank materials purchased and delivered and unfortunately I might be stuck with the wood plank options.
> 
> I see your concern about the 3x4 rafters being not strong enough to carry the extra weights. My room is about 20x20. The 3x4 rafters spans the entire room but they are also supported midway by a giant 6x11. Is there a creative solution to add some perpendicular spans between the new furring strips so the wood planks can have something to attach to at their midpoints?



I wouldn't be concerned with that little amount of additional weight, in part because the acoustic material you are removing will amt. to about 20%, by volume, of what you are adding.

The packaged material should have their weight listed on the PKG., total the weight, divide by 400sq.ft. and the result will be the weight you are adding per square ft.

Structurally, it's defined as dead load.


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## nealtw (Oct 23, 2015)

tonester said:


> I never heard of unvented soffits before. They do look like something that might work. I already have all the wood plank materials purchased and delivered and unfortunately I might be stuck with the wood plank options.
> 
> I see your concern about the 3x4 rafters being not strong enough to carry the extra weights. My room is about 20x20. The 3x4 rafters spans the entire room but they are also supported midway by a giant 6x11. Is there a creative solution to add some perpendicular spans between the new furring strips so the wood planks can have something to attach to at their midpoints?
> 
> this is a photo of the giant 6x11 piece of lumber that is supporting the 3x4 in the middle of the room.


The beam is great news. You have the product now, cut a peice that would fit in the biggest space set it on blocks simulating how it will be installed and see just how stiff it is, you will have to be the judge to whether it can work.


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## oldognewtrick (Oct 24, 2015)

If you have something constructive to add to this thread, please do. If you are intent on bickering, please use the private message system. We're here to offer help not discourage folks trying to solve problems.

The thread has been edited.

Thank-you 

Tom


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## Snoonyb (Oct 24, 2015)

oldognewtrick said:


> If you have something constructive to add to this thread, please do. If you are intent on bickering, please use the private message system. We're here to offer help not discourage folks trying to solve problems.
> 
> The thread has been edited.
> 
> ...



Thanks, however, the private message system appears to be a secret.

On pg. 3 you'll find the origination.


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## oldognewtrick (Oct 24, 2015)

If you wish to send a private message, simply click on the members name you wish to message. Follow the prompts.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 24, 2015)

oldognewtrick said:


> If you wish to send a private message, simply click on the members name you wish to message. Follow the prompts.



Thank again.

Although I'll more than likely not respond, because I take responsibility for my actions, at face value, in public and fear not.


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## slownsteady (Oct 26, 2015)

Fair enough. On with the show.


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