# How do I prepare this area for toilet installation?



## farmerjohn1324 (Mar 22, 2018)

Or is it ready right now?


----------



## JoeD (Mar 22, 2018)

looks like the flange is broken. Start by cleaning up all the debris around it and then if the flange is broken get a repair flange and install it.


----------



## Gary (Mar 22, 2018)

Along with a new wax ring. Don't forget new flange bolts. By the looks of the photo the flange bolts probably didn't survive.


----------



## Snoonyb (Mar 22, 2018)

Here are some alternatives for you;

https://www.homedepot.com/s/toilet%20flange%20repair%20kit?NCNI-5

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-HydroSeat-Toilet-Flange-Repair-10672X/204403879

https://www.homedepot.com/s/flange%2520Extension%2520Ring?NCNI-5


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Mar 23, 2018)

JoeD said:


> looks like the flange is broken. Start by cleaning up all the debris around it and then if the flange is broken get a repair flange and install it.



This flange is intact. Do I need to chip the tile back to expose all the 4 corners of the flange?

I think the bolts are intact also. Do they look long enough?


----------



## JoeD (Mar 23, 2018)

The flange does not need to be exposed. The bolts need to be good and then you apply a wax ring for the seal.


----------



## billshack (Mar 24, 2018)

I would straight out the lead stub . and remove old flange, solder on a repair lead, fill in the area that is low around the lead with cement or grout or quick plug  . the install new flange , hammer down the lead stub .


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Mar 24, 2018)

Which of these do you recommend around a toilet? I have heard terrible things about silicone on this forum, so I'm guessing not that one? Would it be a bad idea to use Painter's caulk around a toilet.


----------



## JoeD (Mar 25, 2018)

Neither. there is no need to caulk the toilet to the floor.


----------



## Gary (Mar 26, 2018)

2X on the no caulk. That way in the event the wax ring does fail at some point down the road, you'll know about it, maybe, before it damages the floor.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Mar 26, 2018)

Gary said:


> 2X on the no caulk. That way in the event the wax ring does fail at some point down the road, you'll know about it, maybe, before it damages the floor.



I was told to leave the back uncaulked for that purpose.

Does that change your opinion?


----------



## Gary (Mar 26, 2018)

Nope, I've never caulked a toilet.


----------



## nealtw (Mar 28, 2018)

JoeD said:


> Neither. there is no need to caulk the toilet to the floor.


I said that a few years ago and Frodo corrected me. It is actually in the code to caulk the toilet and the base of a pedestal sink, who knew, I have ever seen it.


----------



## JoeD (Mar 28, 2018)

How would you ever know if the toilet seal was leaking when you caulk the toilet to the floor. It will keep all the water under the toilet and rot your flooring.


----------



## nealtw (Mar 28, 2018)

JoeD said:


> How would you ever know if the toilet seal was leaking when you caulk the toilet to the floor. It will keep all the water under the toilet and rot your flooring.


They leave an inch in the back unsealed.  But the leak usually shows up in the lower ceiling even with out caulk.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Mar 31, 2018)

JoeD said:


> How would you ever know if the toilet seal was leaking when you caulk the toilet to the floor. It will keep all the water under the toilet and rot your flooring.



Leave the back uncaulked.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Mar 31, 2018)

The instructions said I need a "plastic retainer washer" that is not included. This goes over the toilet bolts and on top of the flange. The purpose is to help keep the bolt vertical for installation. I cannot buy these individually at Lowe's (haven't tried HD yet), but the employee at Lowe's told me they are unnecessary, and I've been reading the same thing online.

So should I skip these plastic retainer washers?


----------



## JoeD (Mar 31, 2018)

If you can get the bolts to stand up you don't need them. It is just to get the bolts to align with the holes in the toilet. Usually the wax ring does that job.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 1, 2018)

JoeD said:


> If you can get the bolts to stand up you don't need them. It is just to get the bolts to align with the holes in the toilet. Usually the wax ring does that job.



I found it extremely irritating that they wouldn't even include that part in the box if it was necessary. But now I know for next time so I won't get held up.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 3, 2018)

What went wrong here?

I put the wax ring (included with toilet) on the toilet while it was upside down. Then, I lowered it onto the bolts.

The bolts (new bolts that came with toilet) weren't long enough to get through the holes in the toilet, so I couldn't put washers, etc. on them. I have longer bolts that I bought separately.

I picked the toilet back up, expecting the wax ring to be flattened, but it wasn't. Does this mean that no seal was ever made? Should I put the wax ring on the ground and then lower the toilet over it, or put it on the toilet, then lower the toilet onto the ground? The instructions said the second one.

Also, what do you think of waxless rings?


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 3, 2018)

I think this is my answer...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chief-1-4-in-Flange-Extension-Ring-886-RQ/203176248


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 5, 2018)

Is there still part of an iron flange I need to remove? I removed one iron flange that you can see the pieces of. Was that an extension flange?

When I put the new plastic flange down the pipe, do I screw it into the existing metal? Or do I need to expose concrete? In which case, I would have to pour new concrete. Is there any adhesive I need to use between plastic flange and iron pipe.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 7, 2018)

This is a different toilet. The tank lever blocks the adjustment rod from floating to the top of the water, causing it to run constantly.

Any idea how I can fix this?


----------



## tuffy (Apr 8, 2018)

Turn your valve a 1/4 turn or so that it's not hitting your flush lever is my opinion .


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 11, 2018)

tuffy said:


> Turn your valve a 1/4 turn or so that it's not hitting your flush lever is my opinion .



It worked.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 11, 2018)

For anyone who cares...

This couldn't have turned out any better. I filled in underneath the cast iron flange with concrete, drilled through the cast iron +concrete, and Tapconned the new flange in the ground.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 13, 2018)

How do I take the water supply line off? When I try to spin the nut, the fill valve spins with it. Even when I hold the fill valve, the base of the fill valve spins with the supply line.


----------



## farmerjohn1324 (Apr 14, 2018)

I started cutting it with a hacksaw. I can't imagine this is how it's supposed to be done. It still isn't off, and I'm worried about accidentally cutting the fill valve.


----------

