# 1st post, Tile on Plaster Lath



## ISUzj (Oct 12, 2010)

HI,
  New to forum... blah blah blah... be nice to me please.

I searched but did not find a really good answer, My Wife and I bought a 1939 cape-cod style house that has wiring probably done in the late 50's and obviously plaster lath almost everywhere. 

We tore out the tile off of the walls in the bathroom, and we took the floor down to the original wood (going to do tile). But as for the walls, there are 4 holes in the plaster (which looks like the gypsum board plaster stuff, not the lath, and we would like to do tile surrounding the tub. 

Now the Question: can we tile over the plaster, or would I be better off taking it all down, and putting green drywall up and cement board up in the place around the tub?

I know the advantages/ disadvantages of doing this sound and cost wise, just looking for the most reasonable answer.


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## inspectorD (Oct 13, 2010)

Welcome and we are always pleasant around here, no need to worry.

Sounds like you are on the right track as far as I would be concerned. Remove what is there and start with a good base. Add some blocking if you need to for future handicap grab bars now. Insulate any exterior walls. And the cement board under tile is the way to go, but should be sealed with a product like "redguard". It keeps the water from migrating through the grout over time. If you do use redguard it creates a vapor barrier on an exterior wall, so remove any vapor barrier (like plastic or craft faced paper) from your insulation.

Good luck and keep us posted, we like pictures too.


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## ISUzj (Oct 14, 2010)

Thanks,  Now, I have one other question, I was at menards the other week and this stuff called GREENE Board was on sale for 5.65 a panel vs the normal 11.79 a panel. They told me that it can be used both vertically on walls and on the floor. It is 1/4" thick.

Has anyone heard of it and would I be okay using it around the shower? I think since it is 1/4" I may consider putting a sheet of plywood up behind it first, unless there are other suggestions.

Also can I pick up the redgaurd at any home improvement place?

I will put some pictures up as we go. we bought the house and are re-doing the kitchen and bathroom for sure and little here and theres as well.

Thanks


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## inspectorD (Oct 14, 2010)

I would just use durarock for the floors and wall tile areas. It works. And use moisture resistant drywall, it helps to keep condensation out of the walls. 
Make sure your new bath fan exits to the exterior of the house, not the attic.
And any tile supply house is actually a better place to get your materials. I actually spend less when I use the tile store than when I buy at the Box stores.
Durarock last week at Lowes, $11
Tile America store $9
Always look around, and you get better answers from the pro stores.
Good luck.


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## DrHicks (Oct 14, 2010)

InspectorD is spot on with everything he has said.

When you're talking about 1/2 inch cement board, you're looking at about $10 per 3'x5' sheet.  In the big scheme of things, it's well worth it to do the job right.  Spend a few extra dollars and do the job right.


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## ISUzj (Oct 15, 2010)

K well then I am going to go pick up some sheets of Cement board for the surround. As for the floor, I am going to try this Greene Board, they gave pretty good ratings on it, and it is a thin cement board.

Green E-Board : A green alternative for underlayment and backer board

Not to mention it is Green friendly, Fireproof and at the time... cheaper than C-Board. I just have to be certain on the installation process.

My wife and I are trying to remodel the whole house and not throw more than 2 Cu Yards of waste...call it a fun challenge for us.


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## handyguys (Oct 15, 2010)

I wouldn't use the green e-board. There is nothing environmentally un-friendly about plain ole cement board, it too is fireproof and isn't expensive. Use something tried and true. The thicker durock is better for floors in my opinion. Use it for the surround too. No drywall in wet areas, just the durock as inspectorD said.


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