# Install a vanity cabinet with filler panel



## rokosz (Mar 8, 2015)

Same bathroom as my other recent post, different task.

I found a how-to for the cabinet:
1) "hi-speed"? bit to get through the cabinet.  Does that mean drill a hole with a typical Dewalt drill equipped with a wood bit?
2) masonry bit to get through the tile and then anchor

Couple ?s here:
Is it necessary to find studs to drive into?  These are 120+yo studs so and I've had middling success with screws getting enough bite
If I don't would I then use something like lag anchor?

The part I've got no information on:
a 3" filler panel to go between the cabinet and the wall
Here's the panel (one end).  I don't understand why that pre-drill is there. To go in the floor (again tile)? or into the counter top (hah! its granite)?






Here it is in  position:




Top-down view.
Any suggestions on attaching it to cabinet and wall (or floor?) besides PL premium?  I thought maybe Lbrackets. But how do you attach _both_ sides of te panel?  Aaahh, try and get at it from inside the cabinet?   Its not likely to be kicked, given its location but you never know.  I'd be happier if it was attached.

thanks!


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## nealtw (Mar 8, 2015)

A high speed bit is normal steel drilling bit
http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/drill-bits/metal-twist-drill-bits/high-speed-steel-drill-bits
Normaly you can just drive screws thru the cupboard into the filler peice. For bigger peices of filler you can place a 2x4 behind it and screw that in place to
Pre drilling into the studs with a drill bit just a little smaller than the screw and maybe a little wax on the screw will help get them in.


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## Big Red (Mar 9, 2015)

OK----when you can't nail or screw something like this because of no stud or a secure place to nail to, then it's time to forget the PL and get out the Power Grab.  I've used a TON of Power Grab and I guarantee it will work.  It totally replaces nails.  You can even install wainscotting with it and never use ONE nail.  Every Big Box store carries it, either in a squeeze tube or a caulking tube.  For most installs, you don't need clamps, altho  I usually use clamps with it when gluing casement moldings in place.  This product gets you out of many problem situations when you don't have a stud to nail to.  Everyone should have a tube of this stuff around.  I like the squeeze tube the best, as it lasts longer than in a caulking tube.


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## joecaption (Mar 10, 2015)

The spacers only need to be attached to the stiles of the cabinet, not the wall.
If it is not predrill you'll likely split the wood.
I use trim head screws for this one.
Only place you need to be attaching the cabinet to is the back of the cabinet where the backer strip is to the wall.
No glue needed any place.
Yes it would be best to attach to the studs in the wall.
Can't find a stud then use toggle bolts, any type of anchor is not going to hold.


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## rokosz (Mar 10, 2015)

Thanks folks! I appreciate the collective wisdom.
So, to summarize, I've got three errr "planes" to (af)fix.
1) cabinet to back wall: find a stud, screw (after being sure drill-through tile is clean (and large enough).  No good stud(s)? bigger holes for toggle bolts.  Now I wish I'd sistered 2/4s onto the 120yo studs before closing the wall.

2) filler to cabinet: pre-drill filler, screw through inside of cabinet into filler. beware of clearance between screw heads and drawer rails.

3) filler to wall: Got a choice: do nothing here, or glue.  I like things securely fastened, leaving one side of a tall narrow piece of wood loose bugs me. Not a likely place for abuse -- but I can imagine the head of a vacuum cleaner knocking it once too often -- maybe the glue will allow that to three or four times too often. Besides I was impressed with PL when I found out about it 8 years ago.  Power Grab piques my interest.  Better building through chemistry!  Wonder if there are any ASTM(?) comparatives or test results out there...


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## nealtw (Mar 10, 2015)

http://www.zorocanada.com/i/G289385...ZuniBrX_ZAMhZY3S4ko14ZKox-JiPYQClQaAij68P8HAQ

You can countersink the screws to insure they will not interfear with drawer
If you install a 2x4 to the cupboard right behind the filler you can insure it won't get pushed out of place


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