# Door Trim Meets Base Board Problem



## macatc123

Hi everyone, I have a problem with the way my tile guys installed the baseboard in my bathroom.  The problem is that I planned on continuing the baseboard (5" height) around the door, but they only left room for 2 inch trim.  They installed the tile after the baseboards so the grout goes right up to it.  Other, than trying to carve the baseboard out of the tile, and replacing it with the correct length, can you guys see and way around this?  Thanks for you help!!!

First picture is me holding the door trim to show you how I would like it, obviously without that gap.


----------



## nealtw

Ye planning would have helped here, you will have to cut the base molding back. Have you seen advertizements on the new saw that just vibrates so you can cut staight in.
Some one will help out with a name for it. Perhaps you can rent one.


----------



## havasu

What you are holding is not normally used for door trim.


----------



## joecaption

Total hack job. The casing should have gone all the way to the floor then the base bord come up to the casing. If the base is wider then the casing just the tip of if it gets cut back at a 45% angle.
Baseboard never ever runs all the way to the jams.
The casing is now trash and replaced with new that runs to the floor and the base needs to be removed and recut.
This was a trim 101 job.
[ame]http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=4&oq=how+to+install+casing&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4ADFA_en___US413&q=how+to+install+casing+door#q=how+to+install+casing+door&hl=en&rlz=1T4ADFA_en___US413&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbs=vid:1&tbo=u&ei=qsNMTfbMNMjZgQed7YXgDw&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CCcQqwQwAQ&fp=3b15e1a9e1579b3b[/ame]


----------



## macatc123

Sorry, but how is the casing trash? I agree that it should go all the way to the floor. But the only problem with it is cosmetic.


----------



## macatc123

Thanks guys for the advice on the tool. I ordered one and it looks pretty useful. On the other hand, I feel like I'm getting more criticism than help on this issue and it's pretty disappointing.


----------



## inspectorD

Just to save you some $$ and have it still look ok, you could install a plinth block at the bottom.


----------



## havasu

Ok, lets all get on track here. What one person here was referring to was an Ocillating Multi-function power tool, which can be used to make a straight plunge cut into the existing baseboard to cut it back to accept the wider door casing. I use a Dremel Tool as a cutter and it works just fine. You could also remove the last piece of baseboard, and cut it to the appropriate length using a saw, then reinstall it. 

It seems to me that when your flooring was installed, they ran the baseboard to the same length to accept the same width of door casing as was there previously. If you still plan on using the wider baseboard as a door casing, more power to you. You will just need to cut back the existing baseboard a few inches so it joins up properly.


----------



## LHall

The casing would only be trash if the top miter had already been cut with the bottom cut as you were temporarily holding it.  Obviously this is not the case, so you're good.  

Last post is right - cut the baseboard back to allow the casing or remove it, install the casing to the floor and then replace the baseboard running it to the casing.


----------



## inspectorD

joecaption said:


> Total hack job. The casing should have gone all the way to the floor then the base bord come up to the casing. If the base is wider then the casing just the tip of if it gets cut back at a 45% angle.
> Baseboard never ever runs all the way to the jams.
> The casing is now trash and replaced with new that runs to the floor and the base needs to be removed and recut.
> This was a trim 101 job.
> how to install casing door - Google Search



Joe, 
I think you may have misread the post.. and upset the apple cart. The piece of casing that looks to short is actully a piece the person posting is holding up there.Not a piece that was installed. 
All that needs to be done, is the baseboard needs to be cut back to accept whatever trim detail they use for a casing.
I did the same thing when I recommended  a block...he doesn't need it. I guess the block  goes with my head.

Sorry Mac if you felt hassled by us,we take our jobs seriously even when they are not ours. And the tile looks nice! Post some pics of the new job if you can!!


----------



## havasu

I'll be honest. I myself was also focused on that floor, and even showed it to my wife. We both really like it!


----------



## macatc123

Thanks Havasu/LHall/Inspector!  I appreciate the help.  I think I'll try the plinth block.  They seem pretty cheap.  I am a brand new home owner and I totally understand that I will be making mistakes, all I need is advice on the matter and I felt I was getting more of a lynching! Ha anyway, I appreciate the help and complements.  You have renewed my faith in this site!

-Mac


----------



## joecaption

He's right I did think someone had left you with it looking like that. (I've seen it before)
The trouble your going to run into with trying to use base for a casing is casing is thicker then baseboard. The reason for that is so when the two piece come together there's no need to try and have the two pieces laying flush with each other. By being thicker they just have to butt up tight.
If you were using real wood base they could be sanded flush or bisket joints could be added to hold them flush, with MDF base like your using it can not be sanded, so the right angle corners may not line up on the face.


----------



## inspectorD

And one more thing.
Since the baseboard is set into the tile. I would prime that cut you make before you install the baseboard or the block. 
Because the next time you wash the floor ,it may absorb some water if you don't.
Have fun with your new multimaster tool.


----------



## designer-fixit

you may have to tear out the base and replace it with a longer peice, seems like an easy fix just a hassle to tear it out once its in. on the other hand you could just go to the base supplier and ask for a sample piece ....cut it down to size and there you go, you have a filler 

good luck


----------



## BrianKiernan

Very simple fix with the right tool. An oscillating tool like suggested is the way to go (i.e. fein tool or dremel multi-max)

Just hold the casing in place mark a line with a pencil cut back the base and then install your casing and wala done.


----------

