# How do I re-grout marble tile shower walls?



## o2284200 (Jan 4, 2015)

Small areas under the shower head need re-grout on marble walls.  How would you re-grout and what would you use to re-grout marble tile shower walls?


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## frodo (Jan 4, 2015)

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=youtube+regrout&FORM=VIRE1#view=detail&mid=0758F797D12F351CD7C70758F797D12F351CD7C7


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## o2284200 (Jan 4, 2015)

Thanks!
With all due respect, we wouldn't need forums like this, if that's the extent of the feedback.  
I'm just sayin'!


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## nealtw (Jan 4, 2015)

o2284200 said:


> Thanks!
> With all due respect, we wouldn't need forums like this, if that's the extent of the feedback.
> I'm just sayin'!



Good point, I think alot of us have been guilty of that a few times, maybe more than a few.


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## frodo (Jan 4, 2015)

my feelings are hurt,  i am laying in my bed with the cover's over my head.

singing a song my sister used to torment me with.

nobody likes me
everybody hates me
i'm gonna eat some worms


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## CallMeVilla (Jan 4, 2015)

The folks who come here for help range from rank newbie to experienced remodelers ...  It is good to start with the basics then ramp up to more detail as needed.  In this case, I would have used a carbide grout saw to speed up the process instead of the 3-4 hours he took with a razor knife (?)  ...  Instead of cheese cloth, I have used ordinary paper towels after misting the surface with a spray bottle ... wipe clean and toss the paper towel.  Yu go thru a bunch but it goes faster and cleaner.

His additive is a nice touch.  I wonder if that precludes using a grout sealer when you are done?

Post some pics of your before and after ... Would like to see your tile work!


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## o2284200 (Jan 19, 2015)

CallMeVilla said:


> ...   In this case, I would have used a carbide grout saw to speed up the process instead of the 3-4 hours he took with a razor knife (?)  ...  Instead of cheese cloth, I have used ordinary paper towels after misting the surface with a spray bottle ... wipe clean and toss the paper towel.  Yu go thru a bunch but it goes faster and cleaner.
> 
> His additive is a nice touch.  I wonder if that precludes using a grout sealer when you are done?
> 
> Post some pics of your before and after ... Would like to see your tile work!


Thanks! 
And again, with all due respect, I'm not sure who this part of your reply was meant for but I'm still seeking helpful thoughts and direction on this project, thanks!


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## nealtw (Jan 19, 2015)

o2284200 said:


> Thanks!
> And again, with all due respect, I'm not sure who this part of your reply was meant for but I'm still seeking helpful thoughts and direction on this project, thanks!



Have you removed the old grout or is that part of the problem? How big are the grout lines?


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## o2284200 (Jan 19, 2015)

I have cleaned and removed anything old & loose on the shower wall areas in question...The grout line is 1/8th".

FWIW,  I'm looking at *Polyblend #381 Bright White 1 lb. Non-Sanded Grout* (http://tinyurl.com/kg4lkot) but not sure what else I need to apply & seal, if necassary


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## nealtw (Jan 19, 2015)

There isn't anymore sealing you do before grout.
You will need a rubber trowel for putting it on and spange for clean up as welll as a couple 5 gal pails of water.
Holding the trowel on angle and pushing across the grout lines at about 45 degrees will fill the lines. Scrape off the access with the trowel.
The tricky part is the clean up. You want to leave it long enough the the lines start to harden up but left to long and it can get so hard you can't clean it off the tile with water and sponge.
Others here will have a better knowledge of sealing just the grout or all the stone but latter.
Sponge and rubber trowel will be sold in the tile dept. in any store.
http://homerenovations.about.com/od/bathrooms/qt/grouttips.htm


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## o2284200 (Jan 19, 2015)

Thanks!


			
				nealtw said:
			
		

> There isn't anymore sealing you do before grout...


I was thinking the grout might need to be sealed afterwards   The "marble guy" at HD Flooring dept. recommended the following: 
*StainBlocker 12 oz. Additive for Grout* http://tinyurl.com/ko38zxt, which he said I add the to grout prior to applying.



			
				nealtw said:
			
		

> You will need a rubber trowel for putting it on and spange for clean up...


The same guy at HD recommended the following: 
*4 in. x 9-1/2 in. Molded Rubber Grout Float with Non-Stick Gum Rubber* http://tinyurl.com/l6m6bs8  for application.   However, after I told him I'd also have a much  larger 18" porcelain tile flooring job in the near future, he  recommended *4 in. x 12 in. Oversized Gum Rubber Grout Float* http://tinyurl.com/mqqw8os for both jobs.

*Grout sponge.*  Got it. 
*5 Gallon bucket*.  Got it. 

Thoughts?


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## nealtw (Jan 19, 2015)

The smaller one will work fine for both and I don't know about marble sealing so others will chime in I am sure.


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## plumbermike (Feb 5, 2015)

Be careful of scratching and chipping your marble with the grout blade. I suggest getting a grout saw to help you remove the current grout. Be really patient and careful to not destroy your marble.


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## joecaption (Feb 5, 2015)

Need a new tool that has tons of uses and will make this job ten times faster?
Go buy an oscillating saw, I like my Rockwell Multi Crafter so much I went back and bought another one, Main reason everyone was borrowing mine.
Blows through grout super fast with the carbide blade.
Cuts holes in paneling or sheetrock for outlets and switches like hot butter.
Put on the sanding attachment and it cuts into tight corners.
Under cutting jambs for flooring, cutting out a section of hardwood flooring, and the list goes on.


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## joecaption (Feb 5, 2015)

Think about it, what difference would it make how wide the tile is? All your trying to do is fill the grout line, not skim coat the tiles.
Do not make the classic mistake of not cleaning off the tiles as you go.
Or your next post will be how do I get off the haze on the tiles.


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## o2284200 (Feb 2, 2016)

Here are pics...
Can anyone tell me what kind of marble tile this is?






The horizontal seam under the valve has old grout (no caulk),  which is cracking and disappearing, while the rest of the horizontal  seam between the marble tiles to the right, appears to have caulk on top of old  grout.    How would you deal with this caulk on top of old grout?





I also noticed a couple of small surface scratches in the area under the shower valve, how would you deal with these?





FWIW, Yes, caulk appears to have been used on the vertical seams in the corners of the  marble tiles as well as on the horizontal seam between the marble tiles and  the vinyl shower pan.


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## nealtw (Feb 2, 2016)

Home Depot has a saw for removing grout
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....NUD0GLK9ub5jm33iv_eBOh9anZgmzatTyUaAul18P8HAQ
Or this blade fits a sawsall 
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000059RSV/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Or there is the saw that Joe suggested with the right blade.
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009K1H38W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Where things flex like the corners and at the base it always a good idea leave out the grout and use bathroom caulk.
Use a rubber trowel to do the grout work, scratches can be removed, but if you look into that you will likely decide that you can live with them.


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## o2284200 (Feb 2, 2016)

nealtw said:
			
		

> Home Depot has a saw for removing grout
> https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.p...TyUaAul18P8HAQ


Thanks!
For me, I believe taking my time with the hand held tools worked best.  I used my utility knife along with one of these grout saws.  With that said, I've gotten most of the grout out that isn't covered with caulk.  How would handle the old grout that's covered with caulk?


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## nealtw (Feb 2, 2016)

I have always sold the house before the caulk had to be replaced 
Utility knife off what you can and pick at it until you can get to the grout. If they left the tile shot of the corners, you won't be able to get it all out. I think with proper cleaning you can caulk over old caulk, but some one will correct me on that maybe.


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## nealtw (Feb 2, 2016)

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infcau.html


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## o2284200 (Feb 3, 2016)

Here's a pic of an area that has caulk over old grout.  See how the  caulk is outside of the seam on the marble face.   Although, my utility knife worked best for me removing the old grout from inside the seams, I'm not too keen on using the knife to remove the caulk on the marble face.  With that said, what can I use to remove  the caulk from these areas, without damaging the marble face?


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## nealtw (Feb 3, 2016)

If that is the inside corner, I would leave it there and when you are done with the new grout cover this with caulk.


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## o2284200 (Feb 3, 2016)

No, it's not the inside corner...
It's part of the horizontal seam on the wall.


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## nealtw (Feb 3, 2016)

There might be things I would try, but I can't say anything will work with out scratching.


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## o2284200 (Feb 3, 2016)

What things might you try?


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## nealtw (Feb 3, 2016)

I might try a wood chisel that the blade is straight so there no edges that would dig into the tile. I would work toward the grout line so any damage would be limited to the area where the grout is now.


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## o2284200 (Feb 3, 2016)

Thanks!
If you mean a wood chisel with a metal blade, I'm not too confident in my ability to use a tool like that on marble.  I was thinking of trying to McGyver it using like an old credit card.   Thoughts?


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## nealtw (Feb 3, 2016)

Go buy a tile, just like you have and buy some grout, you need it anyway, mix up a little and make a mess on the new tile and let it dry for a few days and you can try what ever you can think of.


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## o2284200 (Feb 3, 2016)

How do I determine what kind of marble this is?


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## nealtw (Feb 3, 2016)

Other than color I don't know.


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## slownsteady (Feb 3, 2016)

A single edge razor blade is sharp and flat enough to get under caulk on a flat smooth surface. There are some tools available to mount the blade or you can just use your hand (remember, it's a single edge blade  ). The tool is usually called a paint scraper and can be found in the paint section. I've seen other variations on it but it basically is just a handy holder for a single edge blade.


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## o2284200 (Feb 4, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> A single edge razor blade is sharp and flat enough to get under caulk on a flat smooth surface. There are some tools available to mount the blade or you can just use your hand (remember, it's a single edge blade  ). The tool is usually called a paint scraper and can be found in the paint section. I've seen other variations on it but it basically is just a handy holder for a single edge blade.


Thanks!
I have to remove adhesive from the face of ceramic tile on a separate  project, and I'm considering using a "window scraper", which has a single edge  razor blade but I'm not too confident in using it on the marble face.  I don't want to use anything that I might scratch the marble with such as metal  scrapers (remember, it's a single edge blade  ).     How about some kind of good stiff plastic or wood scraper for this marble project?


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## slownsteady (Feb 4, 2016)

the problem with plastic is that it loses strength as it gets thinner, so if it is thin enough to get under the caulk-or adhesive- it will lose its edge very quickly. The window scraper works much better. remember to hold it at a low angle. Just like shaving doesn't rip up your face (or legs?), the blade won't dig in to the marble unless you force it.


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## nealtw (Feb 4, 2016)

People on other sites say to sharpen a piece of hard wood. 1x2 maple sharpened like a chisel.


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## o2284200 (Feb 5, 2016)

Thanks!
Makes sense as far as helping not to scratch the marble.

As far as the adhesive on the ceramic, some have recommended Zylene or  paint thinner prior to scraping, while others have mentioned a heat  gun...Thoughts?


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## nealtw (Feb 5, 2016)

For the glue , razor blade, brass wire brush.???


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## o2284200 (Feb 5, 2016)

Zylene, paint thinner, or a heat  gun prior?


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## slownsteady (Feb 5, 2016)

A product called "OOPS" or "GOO GONE" or "Goof Off"(i think that's the name) available in most big box stores in the paint aisle.


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## o2284200 (Feb 5, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> A product called "OOPS" or "GOO GONE" or "Goof Off"(i think that's the name) available in most big box stores in the paint aisle.


Thanks...
All great names!


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## o2284200 (Feb 5, 2016)

A quick search suggests Goo Gone might be better than Goof Off (aka Paint Off to some) on the ceramic tile, if I want to keep the existing paint on the tile.


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## nealtw (Feb 5, 2016)

paint on tile. You might try softening the glue with vinegar


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## slownsteady (Feb 5, 2016)

You may get additional info from the Liquid Nails people about removing their stuff.


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## o2284200 (Feb 5, 2016)

nealtw said:


> paint on tile. You might try softening the glue with vinegar


Thanks!
I've got plenty of white vinegar, on hand that I use for cleaning.  This will soften the adhesive and not ruin the existing paint?


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## o2284200 (Feb 5, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> You may get additional info from the Liquid Nails people about removing their stuff.


Great idea, thanks!


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## nealtw (Feb 8, 2016)

o2284200 said:


> Great idea, thanks!



You were asking about taking the scratches out of marble.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEoOrWaMH9M[/ame]


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## o2284200 (Feb 18, 2016)

nealtw said:


> You were asking about taking the scratches out of marble.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEoOrWaMH9M


Great, thanks!


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## o2284200 (Feb 18, 2016)

nealtw said:


> paint on tile. You might try softening the glue with vinegar


FWIW,  the yellow paint pattern is not on the tile but rather appears to be baked into it.


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## o2284200 (Feb 18, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> You may get additional info from the Liquid Nails people about removing their stuff.


UPDATE: Here's what the "Liquid Nails Expert" wrote back to me: "...all you could possibly do is coat it in  petroleum jelly for ~12 hours than use a plastic scrapper and a mineral  spirit rag to try and get it off.".


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## slownsteady (Feb 18, 2016)

o2284200 said:


> UPDATE: Here's what the "Liquid Nails Expert" wrote back to me: "...all you could possibly do is coat it in  petroleum jelly for ~12 hours than use a plastic scrapper and a mineral  spirit rag to try and get it off.".



Not very encouraging, but at least they offered some advice. Petroleum jelly, hmmmm. At least you don't have to go the drug store for a quart of KY:


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## o2284200 (Feb 23, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> Not very encouraging, but at least they offered some advice. Petroleum jelly, hmmmm. At least you don't have to go the drug store for a quart of KY:


So true, so true...
:agree:


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## o2284200 (Feb 23, 2016)

How would you fix these areas?

The shower corners appear to be caulked from top to bottom.  I removed existing caulk, where there's some minor mold, at bottom.   





The wall to base joints, however appear to have been grouted originally  then caulked over.  I removed the caulk and scored the grout lines.


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## nealtw (Feb 23, 2016)

Once you have all the mold out clean those areas with denatured alcohol and caulk them. If you are re grouting the rest of the joints, do that first.


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## o2284200 (Mar 1, 2016)

Thanks!
Correct me, if I'm wrong but the wall to base joint should've been done with caulk just like the corners.  If that's the case, what should be done at the wall to base joints?   Again, it appears to have been grouted originally   then caulked over but I removed the caulk and scored the grout lines.


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## nealtw (Mar 1, 2016)

Just caulk over the grout.


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## o2284200 (Mar 12, 2016)

Thanks!
Some say applying caulk over a grouted joint is not a good plan.  Remove what grout is there, clean, allow to dry well, then caulk. Thoughts?

Or how about this stuff?
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awgapRjOShY[/ame]


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## frodo (Mar 13, 2016)

that appears to be cultured marble,  not marble.

if that is the case.  caulk it with silicone


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## nealtw (Mar 13, 2016)

Caulking over the grout is fine, it just gets a better grip if the grout isn't there.


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