# Chemically-strip or Wet-sand/scrap?



## bh_homeowner (Feb 19, 2017)

I have about 20 sets of exterior window trim I'd like to patch up (minor termite damage/dry rot) and refinish. I've already confirmed lead-based paint. Initially, I was thinking about wet-sanding/scraping just the problem areas, re-prime, seal, then re-paint. But now, I'm considering stripping all of the lead trim paint with a chemical stripper, instead of just scraping away the problem areas.

What would you all suggest? And if it's the chemical stripper, would I be fine with a HEPA respirator, googles, gloves and a disposable body suit?

Thanks!


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## bud16415 (Feb 20, 2017)

I have had all old (100 plus) homes and done a lot of work on lead painted trim inside and out. I never saw the need to take outside painted trim down to bare wood to repair. I always just scraped and pressure washed / prime and paint. Striping paint is a lot of work and before I did that I would just pull the old trim off and replace it. I think it would be cheaper than all the supplies to strip it. Inside where you might have custom hardwoods and such it might pay to have things stripped. 

I could be wrong.


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## joecaption (Feb 20, 2017)

There's lots of safe paint strippers available.
There's Soy, Citrus, Another good one is Peel Away.


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## Sparky617 (Feb 20, 2017)

A heat gun is a way to soften and remove the paint.  They are pretty effective on oil based paints.


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## bud16415 (Feb 20, 2017)

20 sets of windows working from a ladder each window having at least 5 pieces to be stripped some of them being painted on 3 sides That would be 100 X the time to strip and sand one board, say 20 minutes and I know it would be higher. That&#8217;s 33 hours on the ladder min with a heat gun or a paint brush and a can of stripper and scrapper. Call it a working week of 8 hour days. 

I think a heat gun would work good outside I did a few homes with them inside and out. I try and not think about all the lead paint fumes I inhaled working inside doing this as it burns and bubbles off. Outside I would feel safe in doing it today with air movement. 

These kinds of projects tend to wear you down .


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## bh_homeowner (Feb 21, 2017)

Thanks for the tips all!

I actually wasn't planning on tackling all of the windows straight through. I was going to try to take care of one window at a time, say, one per weekend kind of thing.

Reading the responses, it seems silly to actually remove all of the paint, versus scraping just the problem areas and covering with a fresh layer.

I do have one question...do I have to worry about the debris and dust that comes off when I scrape and wash? Obviously, I'll wear a respirator, but do I need worry any about contaminating the exterior area of my house/yard with lead?


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## nealtw (Feb 21, 2017)

I would use drop clothes outside so you can get rid of it


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## Sparky617 (Feb 21, 2017)

bud16415 said:


> 20 sets of windows working from a ladder each window having at least 5 pieces to be stripped some of them being painted on 3 sides That would be 100 X the time to strip and sand one board, say 20 minutes and I know it would be higher. Thats 33 hours on the ladder min with a heat gun or a paint brush and a can of stripper and scrapper. Call it a working week of 8 hour days.
> 
> I think a heat gun would work good outside I did a few homes with them inside and out. I try and not think about all the lead paint fumes I inhaled working inside doing this as it burns and bubbles off. Outside I would feel safe in doing it today with air movement.
> 
> These kinds of projects tend to wear you down .



Remove the sash and do it on the ground.


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## bh_homeowner (Feb 21, 2017)

A little more info...

The window sashes themselves are actually all metal-framed, so all sliding areas are metal against metal, and there is no rubbing of painted wood against wood.

I'm literally just addressing the painted wood trim outlining of all of the windows.


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