# Repairing Termite Damage



## Gaurick

Moved into a house recently that I knew had some termite damage, so it wasn't a surprise. However, what was a surprise was how much. I punched out plaster and uncovered some heavily damaged 2x4's on a load bearing wall. It used to be an external wall, but an addition to the house has made it more of a center/interior wall. Now to the damage: 5 out of 6 2x4's are chewed up - so much to the point to where if I put drywall up I'm afraid standard screws won't catch. I've come to the conclusion that they either need replacing, or reinforcement, but I'm not sure which is the smarter course of action. Should I replace the 2x4's one by one? Or just sister the 2x4's with a second one right next to it? Thanks in advance!


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## inspectorD

I would support the sections and replace. You never know who survived the pesticide. It is also easier when you do further work to make sure there is nothing hiding. I have removed studs and found the top and bottom plates decayed in sections also.
Good luck, and folks around here love pictures .


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## Gaurick

Here are some pictures of what I am up against. I never really got into heavy contracting or framing houses, so this will be the largest scale project I've done. While we're waiting on Asbestos answers, I figured I'd take advantage of the time and do some homework.

One is by far the worst spot above the door frame.
The other is currently the largest wall that needs work. Everywhere you see blue tape is a beam that is pretty much hollowed out.

My fear is that I'll damage part of the house if I don't do it just right, as we found out the previous owners damaged a rooms wall because they knocked out a bathroom wall to reframe it without properly supporting it as they went. I was given the suggestion of framing up beams next to the ones I'm going to remove. We agreed it would be a bit of an issue with the dry wall as our studs would be off though. Any suggestions on how to go about replacing them?


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## inspectorD

That looks like some serious damage. As you take areas apart, do it in sections. Take out what is damaged and then move to the next area. 
Getting a professional out to give advice is also an option.


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## Gaurick

I spoke with a contractor I used to work for, and he suggested knocking out the fire blocks, setting up 2x4's right next to the existing damaged ones, and leaving the damaged ones in as what IS left of them can still add to the support - and it would help solve any problems that might come up from removing any. The house was tented about 5 years ago or so, and I've found zero evidence of live termites.


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## Gemini

Hello All,
This is my first post ever to a forum so I hope you forgive me for perhaps putting it in the wrong place....
I am selling my house (built in 1944) in South Carolina - after only two days on the market we had a good offer.  All was well until the termite inspection, which shows no active termites, but "inactive termite damage to subfloor...repair needed." "inactive water damage to substructure at HVAC...repairs needed." "Water damage to foundation sill and subfloor....repairs needed."  "water damage to subfloor and floor joist at hall bath tub step-out...repairs needed."
We had thought the we could fix some things and maybe leave the rest for the buyer - but it seems that the lender's mortgage company will not make the loan unless we have a "clear" report - meaning all repairs done I guess. (Realtors being very vague here). We had a guy come out and say that the hall bath repair would involve not only going under the house but also coming down from on top, ripping up the tile, jackhammering the apparent small concrete slab there, etc.... this sounds like way too much damage-inducing repair.  Comments?


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