# Deadbolt handle cannot be turned from inside



## albertkao9 (Mar 3, 2017)

My door deadbolt handle cannot be turned from inside so the door cannot be opened.   Please see attached photo.
How to fix this problem?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 3, 2017)

Remove the screws and the cover and unless the door has an excess of tension you should be able to twist the blade and open the door.


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## kok328 (Mar 4, 2017)

To be clear; knob won't turn or knob turns but, won't retract the bolt?


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## Mastercarpenty (Mar 4, 2017)

Many of these have a thin, narrow flat shaft which is easily bent making operation difficult or impossible when someone has tried to force a mis-adjusted lock closed or open. Remove the interior plate and you'll see how it works and whether anything is bent. Bent parts can be made straight but the lock plunger has to operate freely or it will happen again. If the plunger doesn't operate freely with the door open you probably need a new lock. If it binds only with the door closed, the strike on the door jamb needs to be reset to eliminate the binding. 

Phil


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## albertkao9 (Mar 4, 2017)

The deadbolt handle is hard to turn even the door is opened.
This problem only occurred yesterday suddenly.
The left screw was loose.  I tightened it but this hard-to-turn problem occurred so I posted this question.


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## joecaption (Mar 4, 2017)

Time for a new deadbolt.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 4, 2017)

See post #2, apply WD-40 or PB Blaster.


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## slownsteady (Mar 4, 2017)

If you loosen that screw just a bit, does it make the bolt easier to move? It may be binding from overtightening.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 4, 2017)

Which happens when the lock is improperly installed or the door has not been correctly bored.


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## albertkao9 (Mar 4, 2017)

slownsteady said:


> If you loosen that screw just a bit, does it make the bolt easier to move? It may be binding from overtightening.



If I loosen that screw just a bit, it make the bolt easier to move.
Currently I discover the optimum tightness of the screws - not too loose nor too tight  and push on the door from inside.
I also put some Graphite Lubricant in the keyhole and the door key is easier to turn now.
What else can be done?


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## albertkao9 (Mar 5, 2017)

I remove the two screws on the deadbolt handle cover. 
Please see the second photo in the shared album https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=RVJPQkoza0Y4V0xmUXZWaDB1SWpZQVVRUmRZVkx3 .

Is the gold plate on backwards or not?


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## havasu (Mar 5, 2017)

Yes, it looks like it was installed backwards.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 5, 2017)

It appears correct.

Somewhere on this lock, and usually on the latch plate, will be stamped the brand name, from which you can pull up a PDF of the installation instructions.


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## havasu (Mar 5, 2017)

Take a look at the attached PDF. Then look at step # 3. That plate appears to be installed backwards.


http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/content/BDHHI/5026889


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## Snoonyb (Mar 5, 2017)

havasu said:


> Take a look at the attached PDF. Then look at step # 3. That plate appears to be installed backwards.
> 
> 
> http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/content/BDHHI/5026889



Look at the hole pattern of both B & C, and this is clearly not the PDF for the OP's lock, but more resembles that of a KWICKSET.


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## havasu (Mar 5, 2017)

Yep, that was a quickset set. I just googled as many as I could until I found a similar set up. If I remember correctly, the cone in that support plate goes inward, so more "meat" as there to grab on the horizontal key pin.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 6, 2017)

The OP's lock has some of the properties of the older SCHLAG that used an 1-1/2" boring, but not even they used a wood screw to secure it in place.

Sure would be handy if the OP could Identify the product.


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## Mastercarpenty (Mar 6, 2017)

The plate is set correctly. These locks were meant to be used with either a 2 1/8" single bore or smaller holes and you turn the plate accordingly. The 2 inner screws attach to the cylinder on the other side. Loosen those screws a bit and see if that helps. If it does then you tighten then somewhat while checking function- you may need to move the plate or cylinder slightly to obtain good functioning, it's a trial and error operation. One it's good tighten the screws well and reinstall the thumb lever plate. 

These kinds of locksets are prone to getting misaligned like this since everything 'floats' and there's only clamping pressure from those 2 inner screws to hold it all in place. I'd recommend boring the door to the 2 1/8" standard, then flipping the plate(s) over so nothing moves around even if the screws loosen slightly, then this won't happen again.

Phil


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## nealtw (Mar 6, 2017)

Mastercarpenty said:


> These kinds of locksets are prone to getting misaligned like this since everything 'floats' and there's only clamping pressure from those 2 inner screws to hold it all in place. I'd recommend boring the door to the 2 1/8" standard, then flipping the plate(s) over so nothing moves around even if the screws loosen slightly, then this won't happen again.
> 
> Phil



You do have to explain your trick for over drilling a 1 1/2" to 2 1/8" hole.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 6, 2017)

2-1/8" is now pretty much the standard boring, while SCHLAG in the 40's and 50's were the pioneer of the residential deadbolt lock industry, were you to install one of their original locks in a 2-1/8" boring, the only thing keeping it from flying through the hole would be the bolt.


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## Mastercarpenty (Mar 7, 2017)

nealtw said:


> You do have to explain your trick for over drilling a 1 1/2" to 2 1/8" hole.



Heh heh heh. It's simple really but it might take you a few years to learn how 
The guy who got me started into trim carpentry did it with a jigsaw, said it couldn't be done any other way- Slow, messy, and a PITA. Someone else showed me how to rough-cut a block to fit the hole so the center-drill had something to bite into- Faster, cleaner, but still a PITA especially if the block moved or popped out. Someone else used a section of broomstick through the plunger hole- best so far but those holes come in 2 sizes and broomsticks vary too, plus it's hard to sweep with a 2-foot long broom handle. Enter the lockset drilling jig, king of the job. Screw the jig to the door where the plunger holes are and now your holesaw or forstner bit has something to keep it aligned until it's in far enough to align itself. Works best with gentle pressure and by 'walking' the bit around off-axis till you've got depth all round, then you align squarely and drill away- Fast, accurate, easy, works on every door, and doesn't hinder the sweeping-up at the end of the day :trophy: 

I use a plastic jig so that it doesn't dull my tools. And as I work mostly on old houses it sees frequent use. I've seen every method and manner of lockset hole-making imaginable on these, including one apparently done entirely with only a 1/2" chisel! Ditto locksets; I've likely seen them all by now. I installed a fancy one once which had 15 holes that needed drilling- that lock and door cost more than I make in 2 months time. Talk about nervous stress, doing that one was almost scary. And since I started this life in commercial and industrial work I got to see and learn those babies too. Coordinators, panic bars, multiple types of closers mounted several different ways, electric strikes, openers, magnetic hold-opens, storefront doors, ball-bearing hinges, sprung hinges, riser hinges, bathroom partition doors, roll-up doors, sliding doors of every sort, bifolds, accordion doors, you name it and I've done it including jailhouse door locks too. Doors and locks are my specialty and not to be boastful but I've never seen or heard of anyone better simply because of the vastness and diversity of the different ones I've done. 

When you get down to the brass tacks of them, doors are simply your 6th grade geometry lessons being put to use and their hardware is mostly common-sense thinking and observation of how the parts fit together and work together. The tricks and shortcuts will make themselves known to you after you've fixed enough of them simply by thinking and paying attention to what caused the problem you're dealing with in the first place. I'm not that smart but I'll never understand why so many guys have such trouble doing doors and locks well- tain't nuthin to it a'tall 

Phil


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## Snoonyb (Mar 7, 2017)

It also helps, to be smarter than what you are working on.


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## nealtw (Mar 7, 2017)

Mastercarpenty said:


> Heh heh heh. It's simple really but it might take you a few years to learn how
> The guy who got me started into trim carpentry did it with a jigsaw, said it couldn't be done any other way- Slow, messy, and a PITA. Someone else showed me how to rough-cut a block to fit the hole so the center-drill had something to bite into- Faster, cleaner, but still a PITA especially if the block moved or popped out. Someone else used a section of broomstick through the plunger hole- best so far but those holes come in 2 sizes and broomsticks vary too, plus it's hard to sweep with a 2-foot long broom handle. Enter the lockset drilling jig, king of the job. Screw the jig to the door where the plunger holes are and now your holesaw or forstner bit has something to keep it aligned until it's in far enough to align itself. Works best with gentle pressure and by 'walking' the bit around off-axis till you've got depth all round, then you align squarely and drill away- Fast, accurate, easy, works on every door, and doesn't hinder the sweeping-up at the end of the day :trophy:
> 
> I use a plastic jig so that it doesn't dull my tools. And as I work mostly on old houses it sees frequent use. I've seen every method and manner of lockset hole-making imaginable on these, including one apparently done entirely with only a 1/2" chisel! Ditto locksets; I've likely seen them all by now. I installed a fancy one once which had 15 holes that needed drilling- that lock and door cost more than I make in 2 months time. Talk about nervous stress, doing that one was almost scary. And since I started this life in commercial and industrial work I got to see and learn those babies too. Coordinators, panic bars, multiple types of closers mounted several different ways, electric strikes, openers, magnetic hold-opens, storefront doors, ball-bearing hinges, sprung hinges, riser hinges, bathroom partition doors, roll-up doors, sliding doors of every sort, bifolds, accordion doors, you name it and I've done it including jailhouse door locks too. Doors and locks are my specialty and not to be boastful but I've never seen or heard of anyone better simply because of the vastness and diversity of the different ones I've done.
> ...



Get yourself a 2 1/8 hole saw, saw a hole in a piece of plywood.
Clamp the plywood over the hole centering over the smaller hole.
Drill the bigger hole let the plywood be your guide.

Or

https://www.blackrocktools.com/samo...!!g!!&ef_id=WD8eFgAAAHha-3Tf:20170307144115:s


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## Mastercarpenty (Mar 7, 2017)

You can misalign a wood jig but using the purpose-made drilling jig screwed in at the plunger gets you perfect every time, and the plastic holds up better than you might imagine. Even though I'm careful, I prefer 'idiot-proof' because every now and then I resemble that remark! 

There are no insurmountable problems with woodworking, only as-yet unfound solutions 

Phil


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