# ge profile refrigerator warm bottom freezer



## mls

I am the lucking owner of a ge profile bottom freezer refrigerator, bought in 2005. Every summer the temperature in the freezer warms up to 15-25degrees. In 2007, the refrigerator failed totally. A repair tech replaced the motherboard as has worked ok during the winter. However the summer months the refrig. runs constantly. The temp still runs warm in the freezer. I have looked at the compressor. The coils are clean, compressor is hot. No frost build up. The cooling fan is running, but seems at a very slow, lazy speed. Enough so I could stop it with my finger. 

Does the cooling fan normally run this slow. Or is this the nature of ge profile?


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## Nestor_Kelebay

mls said:


> I have looked at the compressor. The coils are clean, compressor is hot. No frost build up. The cooling fan is running, but seems at a very slow, lazy speed. Enough so I could stop it with my finger.
> 
> Does the cooling fan normally run this slow. Or is this the nature of ge profile?



When you say "no frost build-up", you're probably looking at the wrong coils.
The coils you're probably looking at are the condensor coils in front of that slow cooling fan.  You should never see frost on those.  It's the EVAPORATOR coils in front of the evaporator fan (and I don't know where it is on your fridge) that SHOULD have a uniform coating of frost over their entire length.
If you don't see frost forming over the whole length of the evaporator coils while the fridge compressor is operating, then you've got a serious problem.


It seems to me to be only common sense that a cooling fan isn't doing it's job if it's not turning fast enough to get a strong blow of air over those condensor coils.  I would suspect that would be a big hunk of the problem if the condensor coils aren't being sufficiently cooled.

If you don't get any further help here. Go to the websites called

Appliance411 - Appliance Purchasing, Appliance Service and Appliance Repair Parts Information Center for Major Home Appliances

or

Appliance repairs, Appliancehelp, Appliances, repairs to dryers washers dishwashers fridges repairs microwaves ge maytag kenmore frigidaire westinghouse inglis, appliance how to take apart information, purchasing an appliance help, model number help,

Those web sites are owned and operated by D. O. and J.W. respectively, both of whom are appliance repair technicians, both of whom will have already forgotten more about your particular model of fridge than I'll ever know, and both of whom operate an appliance repair Q&A forum on their respective websites.  (I've known J. W. for about 10 years now as we used to answer questions on the same DIY'er websites.)


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## Quattro

Condenser fan should be moving quite a bit of air. My guess is, the replacement motherboard was incorrect, or also defective. This is a very common issue with GE fridges. It happened to mine too. Do a search on this forum for GE refrigerator, and you'll find the threads.

But in order to check out the evap coils, you need to remove the plastic panel in the back of the freezer (inside the freezer). Then you can check on the two-speed evap fan as well. There is also a flap between the freezer and fridge sections that opens when the fridge needs cooling. If that's stuck open (which is also fairly common), the freezer won't stay cold enough. 

To test if your condenser fan is not moving fast enough, pull the fridge out a few feet and place a box fan behind it. Turn it on, and wait a few hours. If the temps in the fridge/freezer come back to "normal" (0 in freezer, 37 in fridge), I'd say the problem is either with your condenser fan, or the fan controller on the motherboard. If nothing changes, I'd suspect the issue is on the evap side of things.

Good luck!


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## mls

The result of my freezer problem was a bad circuit board controller card The freezer has been running around 15 to 25 degrees, depending on the air temperature. The condenser fan was moving very slowly and the condenser and condenser coils were hot. I put a box fan behind the refrigerator to cool the condenser coils and the temperature dropped to 0 degrees in the about 4-5 hours. I thought it must be the condenser motor. But after some on line research ,including this site, and talking to service companies most problems occur in the controller board. I have already replaced the board about 2 years ago and was not confident that this was the problem again. But I discovered it is not uncommon to replace a board more than once. Replaced board and everything is cool. Thanks for your advise.


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