# Best Quality Shingles



## tbayav8er (Nov 25, 2016)

Hi Everyone,

I am in the process of trying to find the best shingles, and I will be replacing the shingles on my house and garage in the Spring. What would everyone suggest as the best make and model of shingles to go with? I plan on owning this house for a very long time, so durability is very important to me. I'm not interested in steel roofing. 

Thanks a lot!


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## oldognewtrick (Nov 25, 2016)

to House Repair Talk!

I'd suggest sticking with GAF or Certainteed.


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## Snoonyb (Nov 25, 2016)

As a general rule, 2 ply architectural have a longer warranty.


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## kok328 (Nov 26, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> As a general rule, 2 ply architectural have a longer warranty.



Isn't "Lifetime Warranty" or "Limited Lifetime Warranty" the latest standard?


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## Snoonyb (Nov 26, 2016)

Yet still the Mfg. warranty has a lot of disclaimers.

Then there is each state's contractor warranty.

Warranties are generally as good as the business issuing them.

All of us here are, or have been, exposed to building dating from the 1800's. However, for real-estate appraisal purposes, 50yrs. is a dwelling actuarial life expectancy.

Go figure.


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## joecaption (Nov 26, 2016)

At least 95% of the time on this and any DIY the reasons for issues with with a shingled roof is how it was installed not with the shingles
Clauses in the contract like "replace flashing as needed" to me is a red flag.
Way to many times I've seen new roofs installed without even replacing the sewer vent stack flashings (roof jacks).
Without proper roof venting the shingles are just not going to last as long.
No location in your profile so I'm sure there other suggestions that would make for a better install with it included such as if your in a snow area there needs to be Storm and Ice Shield at least above the house heated envelope.
I will not even install a roof in less they allow me to install a drip cap on all the outside edges, not just on the lower edge.


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## tbayav8er (Nov 27, 2016)

Thanks for the advice! I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. It gets as cold as -40 C/F and as hot as +40 C/104 F. We get pretty intense winters, with strong wind etc. So I will be doing the whole deal with ice guard etc. 

I won't be hiring a contractor, and will be doing the job myself with some buddies. My roof is pretty simple (just a simple gable style). I will be doing the garage as well. I'll be spending lots of time looking things up on this forum, as I plan on revamping the house's ventilation system as well.


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## oldognewtrick (Nov 27, 2016)

The biggest thing to remember if you are doing the work yourself is, proper length fasteners, proper nail placement and proper number of fasteners. All the MFG's have a website with the directions of how to apply shingles. Read them and make your helpers read the instructions.


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## tbayav8er (Nov 28, 2016)

Yes, that's absolutely true. If the job isn't done well, it doesn't matter how good your shingles are. So I will basically strip all of the current shingles off (there are currently 2 layers). I will replace some of the plywood (I can see some dips in the roof where the plywood is starting to bend). I will replace the flashing around the current vents, install some new vents, make sure all the bathroom/kitchen ventilation is routed properly etc. I'll replace the fascia boards, install new flashing, drip edges and gutters. Then, I'll install ice-guard along the edges of the roof, put down some underlayment and start shingling. 

The more advice I can get from all of you folks, the better!


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## nealtw (Nov 28, 2016)

The H clips between the sheets are to help the sheets flex together under load. If you are replacing sheets, you can't get them at both top and bottom. 2x4 blocks behind the 2 sheets will do the same job. Block does not have to be attached to the trusses or rafters, but you need one in every bay where the span is over 16"


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