# Install flashing after the fact...



## pstew96 (Jul 26, 2016)

I have no headwall flashing that I can see, the contractor installed the cedar siding all the way down to the shingle, the roof isn't that old and now I am getting water which seems to be coming from that area of the roof all the way down to the gutter.  I had another contractor look at it while he was there doing a different job and he had his guys put a tar membrane coated with tar along the headwall.  That didn't fix it, I also have a skylight about 2ft lower at that spot in the roof, but the sheet rock is pealing a good 6-10 inches above it which is why I suspect the headwall flashing.  I had another roofing guy look at it and he wanted 10K to fix it, thats alot of cash I can't part with! Can I put some aluminum flashing along that headwall without taking off the cedar siding?  Thanks in advance!


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## bud16415 (Jul 26, 2016)

I had a situation like that once and I am just a home owner and not a roofing contractor but we have some of them here who should chime in. 

What I did was snap a line about 6&#8221; up and cut the siding to the line. I then installed a big flashing up under the siding. I filled the gap then with a piece of 5/4 PT wood to look like a freeze board and before I slipped the wood in I made a Z flashing and slipped it up under the siding also. 

That&#8217;s my suggestion let&#8217;s wait and see what the pros say.  

Welcome to the forum wish it could be under better circumstances.


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## nealtw (Jul 26, 2016)

Bud has the right idea. Some pictures would be good.


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## pstew96 (Jul 27, 2016)

Yes Buds solution sounds really good, I wonder if I could cut 6" of the tongue and groove, take it out and insert the flashing then replace it. Be a tough job as I would have 48' of wall to cut.


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## bud16415 (Jul 27, 2016)

Some photos would help as Neal said. 

The distance isn&#8217;t a problem if you could cut one foot it would just take 48 times as long.  I have a contractor&#8217;s grade saw and a cheap plastic and tin saw also. Sometimes I grab that cheap saw because it hardly weighs nothing and it works better for a long cut like this. 

Plan on hitting a few nails along the way.


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## pstew96 (Aug 8, 2016)

Pictures, the indoor pics shows sheet rock seams coming apart above skylight and below it which makes me think it isn't the skylight or it would only come apart next to or below the skylight, I think..


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## nealtw (Aug 8, 2016)

The flashing should go behind the siding and behind the house wrap, I looks like there is a flashing under there. 
If you had a leak before adding that stuff it may have been behind the siding and now the water has nowhere to go.
Nail a 1x2 level on the wall for the saw to track on and cut the plywood and remove it. That will allow you to see the condition of the wood behind and may dictate other repairs, then you could add a Z flashing at that cut and a new roof flashing and a new painted 1x? to replace the missing siding.


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## pstew96 (Aug 8, 2016)

Yes, there was no flashing that I could see, the tongue and grove went all the way down to the roof shingles, what was there before the newer roof was installed I cant say, but your solution makes the most sense,  Thanks so much!


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## nealtw (Aug 8, 2016)

pstew96 said:


> Yes, there was no flashing that I could see, the tongue and grove went all the way down to the roof shingles, what was there before the newer roof was installed I cant say, but your solution makes the most sense,  Thanks so much!



the drywall will have to go too it will be growing mold.


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## joecaption (Aug 8, 2016)

That siding never should have been that close to the shingles.
Use 1 X 6 PVC lumber not wood or you'll be back there again at some point.
Install it with trim head screws so it can be later removed if needed.
Is that a crack in that plastic cover on that sky light?
If I was replacing the the roof I would have also replaced that inexpensive skylight and installed one with double pane glass with a curb.
https://www.google.com/search?q=hea...MAKHcAMBFwQsAQIGw&dpr=1#imgrc=nO9kYOfQUftPpM:


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## GBR (Aug 8, 2016)

Your skylight is flashed wrong, as is the wall, as said. Should not be ANY tar on either one. Except on the exposed nail heads of the roof to wall. Appears you are missing the window head flash as well. Since your T1-11 siding is in such good shape just above the tar on the wall, IMO, just cut/flash without the intermediate board for the minimal splash back you are getting- non-weather side, or an overhang above... code requires 2" minimum gap. I'd replace the shingles with the tabs missing also.

      The drywall MAY be mold free as the paint seal broke to allow water through, easy to check with a mechanics 1" mirror/flashlight, before cutting a big section out to repair.

Gary


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## pstew96 (Aug 9, 2016)

So Home Depot sells flashing in a 4"x4"x8" pieces, are these ok to use? I would overlap about 1/2 inch? I don't have the ability to run and crease longer pieces.

That plastic dome is cracked, there is another dome under that one, its 30 years old and I will have to replace it.


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## bud16415 (Aug 9, 2016)

pstew96 said:


> So Home Depot sells flashing in a 4"x4"x8" pieces, are these ok to use? I would overlap about 1/2 inch? I don't have the ability to run and crease longer pieces.
> 
> That plastic dome is cracked, there is another dome under that one, its 30 years old and I will have to replace it.



I would buy it in a roll and figure out how to make the bend. I don&#8217;t know the pitch of your roof to figure the angle you need to bend. The short ones I think are made for step flashing where you weave them in with the rows of shingles. 

To make the long bend without a bender I would clamp it between a couple 2x4&#8217;s and slowly work it down with a wood block and a hammer. That&#8217;s my method the pros might have a better trick. The Z bend you could do the same. The suggestion of making the freeze board from PVC lumber i like.


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## nealtw (Aug 9, 2016)

8 ft pieces are fine just make the over lap more like 6 or 8 inches.


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## GBR (Aug 10, 2016)

No, the 8 INCH pieces are for step flashing a rake wall as said. You need the 4"x4"x10' (foot) metal, lay a 2x on it to change from a 90* to a little steeper than your roof. Tuck it under the WRB and nail (roofing nails-- 3/4" into sheathing) it down 12" apart at the very bottom edge only- about 3/4" up from exposed roof shingles on the flash. http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newjersey/nj_residential/pdfs/nj_res_chapter9.pdf  I use roof tar in caulking gun between the overlap ends of flashing to stop any wind-blown water through that joint. The step flashing is for the sides of your skylight, cutting the tops to fit below curb. A wide one goes at the head, some 4x4 across the sill/foot/bottom. Some Z-flash over the window, bent at 110* with a gap and end dams-*pp.8/21*;  http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

Gary

Gary


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