# basement replacement window 32"x24" slider



## LMHmedchem (Aug 21, 2012)

I need an ~32"x24" replacement window for my basement. This in not in a window well, but it is a masonry foundation, so I have limited flexibility with the size. I have looked at home depot and lowes and they have nothing in that size they call a basement window. They have hopper windows in that size, but I want a sliding window.

The only thing I could find in that size it this one,
http://www.homedepot.com/Doors-Windows-Windows-Slider-Windows/h_d1/N-5yc1vZar7zZ1z0xvswZ1z0xuugZ1z0xuwjZ1z0xv96Z1z0xv00Z1z0xvmx/R-202207817/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

but this is not labeled as a "basement window". I have no idea what the difference is and if this will work or not. Can someone please advise if this window will work, and if not, where I might get a proper window.

*LMHmedchem*


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## nealtw (Aug 21, 2012)

I have never herd of a special window for a basement, unless you are worried about someone falling into it. Then you would just order it with safety glass, more $$.


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## LMHmedchem (Aug 21, 2012)

nealtw said:


> I have never herd of a special window for a basement, unless you are worried about someone falling into it. Then you would just order it with safety glass, more $$.


I am just surprised that lowes and hd have a category called "basement windows", and the one I linked to was not in it. I suppose there could be something different about the flanges, since the exterior ones are going to meet up with mortar. It may be of note that I will need to replace the window frame and will not be sliding a replacement window into an existing frame, which is just a screw and caulking operation. I will have to build some kind of frame to attach this into, trim it, and fill with mortar.

Below is a picture of the existing window from the inside. Tomorrow I will get a picture of the exterior if that would help.

*LMHmedchem*


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## nealtw (Aug 21, 2012)

Yup, that,s ugle enough. I have no experience with that foundation, but I would guess that they set the window in place and put rock around it. I think you will want new rough in with treated lumber and then order a window to fit. Find a real window supplier, that doesn't have special order. They just make them to your measurements.


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## LMHmedchem (Aug 21, 2012)

nealtw said:


> Yup, that,s ugle enough. I have no experience with that foundation, but I would guess that they set the window in place and put rock around it. I think you will want new rough in with treated lumber and then order a window to fit. Find a real window supplier, that doesn't have special order. They just make them to your measurements.



You are correct about the construction, they nailed the window frame to the underside of the sill ledger and then used granite tailings to shim the sides of the frame to the large granite blocks that make up the opening. These shims were just mortared in place. You can see this on the first attached picture. They used nicely dressed stones under the window, but nothing like an actual sill. These stones don't run all the way the full width of the foundation, so on the inside, they just made a rubble pile from what ever was handy and covered it with mortar.

I was going to pull all of this out and make a new window frame out of 2x6 or 2x8 pressure treated squared off on the table saw. I was going to make the verticals almost twice as long as they are now and run them down through the rubble pile to the large granite blocks lower down and then bury the bottom of the verticals in concrete. I'm a bit unsure how to trim the outside. You can see in the second picture that the old mortar was just run up to the wood on the old window frame. I could wrap the pressure treated and run the mortar up to the flashing, or I could run the mortar up to the pressure treated and then trim the outside with azak.

Since this is a replacement window, would run the trim over a bit as a stop? Would I be overdoing it with 2x stock instead of just using 1x?

I think I more or less know what to do, but it is always more complicated when you get down to it. Of course, the current construction could hardly be more crude and has held up for more than 120 years.

*LMHmedchem*


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## nealtw (Aug 21, 2012)

I wouldn't dig into the foundation. I would just build the frame and set it in there and fill the gaps with morter. Leave the 2x8 far enough out so the rock won't intefer with trim and fill behind that with caulk or morter. With that over hang above you shouldn't need flashing above. Use a peel and stick to seal the window to the frame before you trim.
But keep in mind I have no experience with stone foundation.


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## LMHmedchem (Aug 21, 2012)

nealtw said:


> I wouldn't dig into the foundation. I would just build the frame and set it in there and fill the gaps with morter. Leave the 2x8 far enough out so the rock won't intefer with trim and fill behind that with caulk or morter. With that over hang above you shouldn't need flashing above. Use a peel and stick to seal the window to the frame before you trim.
> But keep in mind I have no experience with stone foundation.


Which peel and stick would you recommend? I haven't used that before.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Precision Home Services (Aug 23, 2012)

I would recommend going to a roofing/vinyl siding/window supplier that sells to contractors and order vinyl slider replacement windows.   They can be made to any size and should be made 1/4" less than actual opening.   They would be screwed through the side jambs into a wood frame.  As Nealtw had suggested build a treated wood frame to fit within the stone and fill in gaps around outside with mortar.  You would add insulation to the gap between the vinyl and the wood box and caulk to seal.  The outside can be trimmed off with Azek if you want.  They may have them available with an outside nailing flange that would attach to the outside of the wood box.  Usually new construction windows have the nailing flanges and come in standard sizes.   I am not sure where you are located but, I have included the following website for Atrium windows which has a lot of information about replacement windows.  Other brands are available but, I would suggest choosing one that has been around awhile.     http://www.atrium.com/product.asp?region=e


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## nealtw (Aug 24, 2012)

Where ever you buy the window should sell a peel and stick of windows, they should also sell a spray primer that will make it stick to anything. We have used several brands and all seem to be the same stuff.


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## LMHmedchem (Aug 24, 2012)

I found a Pella dealer around here who will sell me a custom built  window. I have used Pella windows and some door before and they seem to  be a good manufacturer. The cost of the window will range from $135-$235  depending the line I pick. The most expensive line has a fiberglass  case and not vinyl. I will have to wait until I get the window framed in  before I know the final size, but it will probably not be standard.

I can get either the nail flange, or the kind the screws into the frame. Is there a preferable option for this? The only windows I have installed are the kind without the nailing flange. I just overlapped the outside trim 1/2" to create a stop and caulked the seams. Is there some reason to go 1/4" short of the box size? Do you want that much spray foam around the window? It seems that centering the window in the opening would take a little playing around with the screws.

nealtw, do you mean the Protecto Wrap, or something else. I know there is a tack adhesive spray that is also by Protecto. I can't quite visualize where this would go. The only places I have seen this stuff is between the nailing flange and the  exterior wall, under the siding. Do you mean to put it around the inside of the wood box under where the window will screw in? If you could post a link to a picture or tutorial, that would be a big help.

*LMHmedchem*


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## nealtw (Aug 24, 2012)

Where I live, water around windows is like death and taxes. So along with sealing out the water on the top and the sides we give it a path to get out from under the windows.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2VOrk1MuWY[/ame]
Our window supplier sends 1/4" shims to set the window on and 1/8" shims to put behind the bottom flange. The insulators follow this up with a 1/4" foam cord and caulk around the inside edge of the window, no foam or insulation in the 1/4" gap around the window. We only do windows with out a flange when we don't want to pull all the siding apart on a repacement, but we find so much rot we have given up on that. 
Depending on where you live all this may not be code where you live.


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## LMHmedchem (Sep 26, 2012)

Thanks for the video link. I am actually getting close to replacing the window, meaning I have all of the foundation repaired up the that level and I have the window frame built. Tomorrow I will order the new window and will install it when it arrives.

I have the protecto wrap to put on as you suggested, but I'm not sure how to apply it given that my window frame does not have wood siding on either side. In the video, they showed how to wrap the rain screen from the window frame around and over the tar paper they had on the plywod that runs up to the window frame. In my case, the window frame is surrounded by masonry. I can start the protecto wrap on the inside, wrap it across the front of the frame, and then back around the sides of the frame. Otherwise, I'm not sure what I' supposed to do with it.

*LMHmedchem*


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## nealtw (Sep 26, 2012)

The idea whith this is to allow water that has gotton around the window a path out and not let it back in. I am thinking that you will be puting a trim around this window on the outside. If that is the case, with the primer you can get for your product it will stick to concrete. Just wrap enough  that will be covered by the trim. You will caulk the sides and top between trim and concrete but don't caulk that joint accross the bottom.


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## LMHmedchem (Oct 18, 2012)

I have my replacement window here now and am getting ready to put it in. It does fit nicely.

The window case sticks out further past the nail fin than I was expecting, I expect this is to allow for the thickness of the house wrap and siding, j-channel, etc.  I'm not installing this where there will be siding around it, so that creates an issue. The case sticks out 1" past the fin, so I will need azek trim that is 1" thick (not 3/4"), or this is going to look really funny with the window case sticking out 1/4" past the trim. For this application, I probably would have preferred a nail fin that was all the way at the front of the case, like a sliding door would be. I could use something like brick mold, but I want something around 2.5" wide and 1" (full) thick.

Any recommendations? I would think that there would be dozens of azek style trim kits available for different styles.

Also, do I put a bead of sealant on the back of the nail fin, or is the protecto wrap enough? If so, what do I use for sealant?

*
LMHmedchem*


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## nealtw (Oct 18, 2012)

Around here will leave the bottom unsealed so water can find it's way out. You kinda have to decide between water getting out and bugs getting in. And yes you have to play with the trim until you find something that works for. We mostly start with 1x6 primed,combed facia an go from there and leaving the plastic 1/4 prowd is what I have.
Makes it easy to caulk.


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