# Automatic Gate Openers ?



## zannej (Jul 18, 2016)

So, this is my front gate from the outside:






Well, part of it. I think it is 12 to 16ft and is hollow tube style. It seems fairly heavy, but I think it is under 200lbs. 

Currently  it is a pain to open and close (the anchor post needs to be replaced).  The current locking mechanism is a chain that wraps around a post.

I  need to be able to keep my gate closed so my cows don't get out and  opening and closing the gate in the rain or extreme heat is very  inconvenient-- to the point that my brother refuses to close the gate  behind him.

I want a solar powered unit so I don't have to worry  about failure during power outages or having to run long runs of  electricity from the house out to the gate since it is quite a distance.

Here  is a small section of my yard (I have over 30 acres) from google maps.  You can't really see the gate because it is under trees. The security  light pole is over 100ft away from the gate.





I  was thinking of mounting the solar panel on the light pole because it  is the closest spot out from under the trees. Alternatively, I could try  to mount it on the car port, but that would be a lot farther and part  of the car port needs to be replaced because it was smashed. I'm not  sure just how to mount the panel though or in which direction to aim it  for the best sun reception.

When I was looking for gate openers,  there didn't seem to be much of a selection. The brand that had the  least sucky reviews was Mighty Mule. So, I'm making a list of things I  would need, but I'm also open to suggestions that might help keep costs  down or would make it more efficient.

Here is the list of necessary items (that I know of so far):


Mighty Mule FM200 gate opener $252.50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FA0BYY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
GTO Rb741 remote control 3pck $51.07 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030KE84G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (individual remotes are $19.88)
Casil CA1290 12v 9ah battery $17.75 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013CX23JM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (I'm open to alternative suggestions on this one)
Camco  55373 Large Battery Box $7.80 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOX2OKS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (or a  box someone recommends if they think there is something better)
Solar Panel for Mighty Mule Gate opener 20w 12v $69.99
Some sort of cables to connect the battery to the gate's power? Not sure what to get for this.
Wires to go from solar panel to battery. Also not sure what to get.
Optional items:


Mighty  Mule Keypad FM137 $38.89 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YP96Y/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 OR  Wireless Intercom & Keypad system FM136 $168.35  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QGNXJI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Automatic Gate lock FM143  $117.95 (unlocks when remote is clicked to open/close gate)  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SS13Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (would love to find a cheaper  solution that works the same way)
Wired push button control FM132 $5.55 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SNXZM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (range 1,000ft-- would love a wireless version)
Adjustable  10" gate wheel $54.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AX6WG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 or Shepherd  Hardware 9785 4-inch gate wheel $12.67  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1A8H6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (or something better that someone  recommends)
Mighty Mule Gate Opener Replacement Transformer  RB570 $15.47 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015RY4OA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (just in case I need  to replace it if something goes awry)
Does anyone here have  one of these or have experience with them? Will it damage the mechanism  of the opener if someone pushes the gate manually without using the  remote to open or close it?


I'm trying to figure out  the best solution for dealing with package delivery. Unlike other people  in my area, my gate is right at the very beginning of my property  instead of being set back, so I can't really put anything out in front  of the gate on the outside without it being in the way of the power  company & timber company. Currently with the gate open, FedEx and  UPS drivers can just drive right in. I would say I could put my phone  number up and have them call me to be let in, but most of them can't get  cell signal to be able to call from there. I thought about a "honk to  be let in" thing, but I hate when people drive up and honk (usually only  Jehova's Witnesses do it)... Maybe I could set up some sort of sensor  that makes a noise in the house? 



I would love to  have an intercom so people could talk to us inside, but I'm not sure  where the best place to put the internal unit would be.


I  still have absolutely no clue what cables/wires to get for the solar  panel. I know it will have to be more than 100ft to reach the battery  (unless I see if I can put the panel on top of one of the old dog houses  out front)-- and it will require digging to put wires underground. So I  will need conduit to put it in.


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## nealtw (Jul 19, 2016)

Cattle grid. can be made out of 4x4s laying on the ground.


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## slownsteady (Jul 19, 2016)

I was going to suggest the same thing. It makes the gate less important. 
Or build a roof over the gate. Not sure which will be cheaper (roof or gate opener), but the roof will have less headaches for sure.
Option 3: move the gate closer.
Do you know if the solar panel is sized for the energy need of the auto gate? How about the batteries...do they hold charge long enough? Seems like a trickier project than it's worth. Better to put the money in to the bathroom project :2cents:


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## zannej (Jul 19, 2016)

I used to have a cattle guard, but the former tenants filled it in. Even when we had it, the cows would jump over it. My older cow is so dumb, I'm afraid she'd break her leg on it. I actually tripped on the cattle guard a few times when I was younger. I don't have fond memories of it. LOL.

Plus, I do want to keep trespassers out. The guy down the street from me is a drug dealer. And sometimes asshats like to ride their 4-wheelers into my yard and over my lawn. And 4-wheelers are loud enough that they can't hear me as I shake my fist and yell "Get off my lawn!" while doing my best Clint Eastwood impression. 

The solar panel that was sold with one of the gate kits was 5watts but people who bought it were saying it really required a 15watt to work properly. I found the 20watt one was actually about the same price as some of the 10watt ones. The solar panel I picked says it is specifically for the Mighty Mule gate openers.

I forgot to include the other option for a gate lock, but I think it requires a separate remote. It allows a cable or chain to attach to hold it in place.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUMWAM4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
It's only $50
Unfortunately, the way it appears I think it would require getting out of the vehicle to put the chain or whatever back into the lock and I don't know if it would unlock when the gate button is pressed.

This one is $74.99 and unlocks when the lock opener is triggered, but I don't know if it works the FM200 model (still waiting to hear back on that).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005V1FMCE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I do need to work on that bathroom. Yeesh. I'm a horrible procrastinator. No joke, I downloaded a Youtube video thing a few months ago that was supposed to help stop procrastination, but I haven't watched it yet.

I forgot to comment on the roof thing-- the gate is completely covered by trees so adding a roof for a solar panel right over it would not do much good. I need to measure the distance to the dog house though and see if it is far enough away from little trees. It might be less than 100ft. Although I found some cable that I think *might* work with it, but I need to learn more about wiring and stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIV85WS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I suppose if push comes to shove, I could probably just erect something to put the solar panel on that is closer but out of danger from trees. I just need to figure out the optimum position to catch the most sun.


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## bud16415 (Jul 19, 2016)

The size of the solar panel and output doesn&#8217;t have to match the power requirement of the gate. The gate will have to be powered off a battery and the battery recharged by the sun. Short burst of greater power being replaced by a trickle of power over a long period. The size of the panel will be determined by first off how much sunlight you get per day and secondly how many times per day will the gate be used and the current draw per usage. 

You have to set it up based on the winter sun assuming usage will be the same summer and winter. High tech solar will track the sun but panels fix mounted will have to be aimed at noon day sun and then won&#8217;t be as efficient at other times. It has to all be factored in to the design. 

Another way to do it would be to have several batteries charging and at the gate and have a quick change method of switching them when required. 

Or rent a ditch witch and put in a wire and a line for a cam and two way talk system so you can see who is at your gate and talk to them before you open it. Overhead wires also work if you can set some poles.


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## nealtw (Jul 19, 2016)

You can run low voltage from the house 1000ft or from your light post.
The gate post has to be well planted so everything  stays straight and level.
These guys do the math for you.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/know-how_farm-ranch_fencing_automatic-gate-opener-buying-guide


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## zannej (Jul 19, 2016)

Thanks Neal and Bud!

The solar panel I was looking at is 9.9 x 15.3 x 2.9 inches and says it puts out 20w. I get a lot of sun in my yard-- even more so now that the tree in the middle died. I just looked out at the dog house (when I first posted it was too dark to see) and it is under a tree. 

I do still have some old satellite dishes (Hughesnet and Dishnetwork) lying around and I might have some of the other hardware for them. I wonder if I could rig something from those parts to make a panel that turns with the sun. I might be able to re-use a pole from the original Hughesnet satellite. I would have to raise it up more though-- I need to have it high enough to avoid cow horns. Maybe I could get an inexpensive little shed to set up over near where the tree used to be and let it serve as a dog house (or make something for the dogs) and then use the roof for the solar panel. Or I could just erect a pole and hang a solar powered LED mosquito lamp on it as well as the panel. I think I still have part of a little lean-to that my father built for something. I could check it's condition and see if I could prop it up and maybe add the pole to it or something..

So many ideas. I hope I'm not losing you guys. LOL.

To organize my thoughts more, my ideas for mounting the solar panel(s)
a) Recycle old satellite pole and/or old metal fence posts to mount panel in a sunny spot near the remains of the oak tree.
b) Recycle old satellites somehow (this is like underpants gnomes idea from South Park-- step one steal underpants-- but in this case it is get old satellite dishes laying around)
c) Buy or build a cheap shed that can double as a shelter for the dogs and mount solar panel on top of it.
d) See if old lean-to cover for something my dad built years ago is still in good enough shape to set up use it to put the panel on (it might need to be raised up in height).
e) Combine a and d and use the pole on the lean-to.

I want to have it serve more than one purpose and I'm trying to figure out what would be the most effective but also the easiest to do.

Too bad I can't train my dogs to dig trenches for me-- I can't even get them to fetch.

If I do the new doghouse idea, I could repair the waterline near the tree stump and have an automatic waterer set up for them there.

I'm probably sounding like a loon now. LOL.

Edit: saw this on google but can't load it until after midnight. Does it look any good?
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJTZl-SGGHg[/ame]


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## slownsteady (Jul 19, 2016)

I'm not sure if you caught my meaning about the roof over the gate: that's to keep you dry as you (or your asshat brother) open and close the gate.


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## zannej (Jul 19, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> I'm not sure if you caught my meaning about the roof over the gate: that's to keep you dry as you (or your asshat brother) open and close the gate.



Ohhh! I thought about it, but sometimes large/tall trucks have to come through so it would be in the way-- unless it was extremely high.

Even then, I still don't think the asshat would close the gate behind himself. He can't even be bothered to close the frickin' bathroom cabinet door, or any kitchen cabinet doors, or to actually put trash in the trash can instead of leaving it on the counter.

I think the idea of a shed is out, but I could probably set up a pole and see if I can use something from the old satellite setup to prop up a solar panel. I just need to figure out the best spot and the best way to run the wire to it. I think the nearest spot out from under trees is over 50ft from the gate, but I'll have to measure. We've actually been wanting one for years. Maybe if I do that I can power some mosquito zappers at the gate too.


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## bud16415 (Jul 20, 2016)

I think the idea of the shed is great for your brother. It sounds like a trip to the wood shed would go a long way to solving a bunch of problems.


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## oldognewtrick (Jul 20, 2016)

Is his truck running?


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## nealtw (Jul 20, 2016)

zannej, I think you have a sit com show, a diary might be worth a fortune.:thbup:


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## zannej (Jul 23, 2016)

His truck has still not been fixed as far as I know. Or if it is, he hasn't made an effort to get it.


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## zannej (Nov 27, 2017)

So, we ordered the Tractor Supply Mighty Mule 360 with 5w solar panel bc it was on sale. Comes with 3 remotes. I've heard the mounting screws strip easily (so I'll find some sturdy galvanized ones instead), but that the rest of it is good. It will hold 550lbs/16ft gate.

I think think the most difficult part will be digging the trench for the underground wire to reach the solar panel-- I found a spot about 20 to 30ft away that gets good sunlight. Still need to either re-set/stabilize the existing post the gate hangs on or replace it. One of my friends who was going to help just lost his father, but the guy who's been cutting the trees is up for helping and the man who bought our tractor is also willing to help. We will probably get the automatic locking mechanism to keep trespassers from pushing the gate and breaking the opener.

My truck has a "homelink" thingamabob on the ceiling that can be programmed as a remote gate/garage door opener. Will just have to figure out how to deal with unexpected visitors and package deliveries. The house is over 200ft from the gate and the range for the intercom/keypad is 50ft.

One of the few things not included in the gate package was a 12v battery and box for the battery. So, I'm trying to pick a good combo. We want something reliable that will last but that won't be too expensive. The Mighty Mule brand batteries are not compatible with this gate opener. Any recommendations/suggestions?


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## nealtw (Nov 27, 2017)

zannej said:


> So, we ordered the Tractor Supply Mighty Mule 360 with 5w solar panel bc it was on sale. Comes with 3 remotes. I've heard the mounting screws strip easily (so I'll find some sturdy galvanized ones instead), but that the rest of it is good. It will hold 550lbs/16ft gate.
> 
> I think think the most difficult part will be digging the trench for the underground wire to reach the solar panel-- I found a spot about 20 to 30ft away that gets good sunlight. Still need to either re-set/stabilize the existing post the gate hangs on or replace it. One of my friends who was going to help just lost his father, but the guy who's been cutting the trees is up for helping and the man who bought our tractor is also willing to help. We will probably get the automatic locking mechanism to keep trespassers from pushing the gate and breaking the opener.
> 
> ...



https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.low-volt-lanscape-wire-142-100-feet.1000794705.html

:thbup:


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## zannej (Nov 27, 2017)

nealtw said:


> https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.low-volt-lanscape-wire-142-100-feet.1000794705.html
> 
> :thbup:


Link didn't seem to work-- or rather, didn't have any of the batteries or wire. I found the wire actually-- 100ft of it. Just need appropriate conduit and the right box and battery.

There's this UPG 40790 Marine Smart Box for around $30
Or MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center box for around $50

So, the batteries would have to fit inside those. I think someone said the batteries can't have the terminals in the center or they interfere with closing or something like that.

Granted, I could get a simpler/cheaper box that has holes on the sides for wires to run up into, but that would risk critters and bugs getting in too.

Amazon keeps recommending MinnKota 12v 35AH Light Trolling Motor Battery that is about $64.


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## nealtw (Nov 27, 2017)

zannej said:


> Link didn't seem to work-- or rather, didn't have any of the batteries or wire. I found the wire actually-- 100ft of it. Just need appropriate conduit and the right box and battery.
> 
> There's this UPG 40790 Marine Smart Box for around $30
> Or MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center box for around $50
> ...



With camper we always used deep discharge but those are pricey and there are new batteries now. So, don't know.


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## zannej (Nov 27, 2017)

nealtw said:


> With camper we always used deep discharge but those are pricey and there are new batteries now. So, don't know.


I should probably google search and find discussions of what other people use. Some said they used cheap batteries from Walmart. Others said they got marine batteries. Since I'm in a very humid area with a lot of rain, I will need water protection. Might throw in some of those moisture absorber baggies that come inside medicine bottles and stuff inside the box.

One thing that is slightly throwing me is that the boxes say they fit x sized batteries and I'm having a hard time finding descriptions that give the battery sizes for some of them.


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## Chris (Nov 27, 2017)

Any 12 volt battery will work. Their little battery will open your gate for a couple weeks before it needs a charge so it will take little maintenance. I never had a battery box I built a wood platform to keep it off the ground since that is not good for batteries and made a wood cap to cover it. I have installed a few of those and had one at my house for a year. Let me know if you need any other advice


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## Chris (Nov 27, 2017)

No need to keep the battery completely dry. It shouldn't effect it


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## zannej (Nov 28, 2017)

Chris said:


> No need to keep the battery completely dry. It shouldn't effect it


Thank you!
I just want to make sure it doesn't get saturated because we get so much rain here. Of course, there is also the concern that a plastic box might lock moisture in, but hopefully that won't bug it too much-- sort of like how my truck's battery lasts ok.
I think just buying a pre-made box would be easier for me than building a wooden box. There is a high spot right next to the gate that I can set the box on. I'm debating between the boxes with the exterior terminals I can hook to, or one that has a wire running out (meant for a camera) or one with holes in the sides. I'm sort of leaning toward marine grade battery just because of the humidity/rain in this area.

I do have some questions:
1. Did you use the default screws that came with it or did you buy other ones? 
2. Would automotive conduit work for protecting the wire underground or would I need something else?
3. How deep should I bury the wire? (It will be going under the dirt driveway
4. Any suggestions/recommendations on how to deal with delivery trucks or unannounced guests? 
5. Have you ever set up any of the keypads/intercom systems? If so, are they worth it? 
6. Have you ever installed it with the locking mechanism? Any tips or advice on that (things to avoid doing, etc).

My goal is to make it so delivery people can bring stuff in. Kinda wishing there was some sort of buzzer doorbell option that could be heard throughout the house and we could look out to see who is there and let them in. I also want to allow a couple of friends to be able to enter and leave on their own. I've ruled out a ground sensor for departing because my fat cows would probably trigger it.

Editing to add: If the included wire for the system isn't long enough, I'm thinking of getting this Mighty Mule 100' 16 gauge wire.


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## nealtw (Nov 28, 2017)

If you will have remotes then you should be able to have wired in keypads too.


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## Chris (Nov 28, 2017)

zannej said:


> Thank you!
> I just want to make sure it doesn't get saturated because we get so much rain here. Of course, there is also the concern that a plastic box might lock moisture in, but hopefully that won't bug it too much-- sort of like how my truck's battery lasts ok.
> I think just buying a pre-made box would be easier for me than building a wooden box. There is a high spot right next to the gate that I can set the box on. I'm debating between the boxes with the exterior terminals I can hook to, or one that has a wire running out (meant for a camera) or one with holes in the sides. I'm sort of leaning toward marine grade battery just because of the humidity/rain in this area.
> 
> ...



With the keypad you can set several codes for friends and also set temporary codes for if you are gone for the weekend or only want someone to come in once. If you don't want to spend the money on the wand for the exit you can just mount a push button on a post like a keypad or a second keypad inside. I liked the wand but it took some setting up to get it to work proper. All in all their stuff is not commercial quality but I never had much of an issue with it and my neighbor had theirs for many years trouble free. I cut the annoying beeper wire that beeps every time it closes as a warning.


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## Chris (Nov 28, 2017)

As for the wire it is the same as thermostat wire for a home but they charge three times the cost. I pay about 12 cents a foot for my wire at true value.


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## zannej (Nov 28, 2017)

Thanks, Chris. I just read that the wire I wanted to use says it can be buried underground as-is, but I would definitely want to put PVC around it where it is exposed. Mighty Mule got back to me on the battery and said "Any 12-Volt Automotive or Marine Type Battery that produces a minimum of 250 cold cranking amps (CCA) placed in a battery box". I'm not sure how to find the cold cranking amps listing, but I'll look at Walmart when I go to the automotive section to get my tires today.

Do you have a link to any particular wire? 

GTO brand? Ok. I'll have to look up that stuff. I wonder if I could have something in multiple rooms in the house that would make a noise when someone is at the gate requesting entry. Never sure which room someone will be in and want to make sure it is heard. 

I really like the idea of a keypad on the outside and a button (that isn't easy to reach for potential trespassers on the outside) on the inside to let friends out. I can probably give a remote to my best friend. My mother is unlikely to need the keyfob remote since I can set up the Homelink for it. (Posting the link in case I lose it and need to find it again).

The ground closest to the gate on the side where the opener will be is a clay and sandy loam mix. Driveway is rather sandy/soft, so I will probably go deeper under the driveway.

I wonder if there is a hand tool with long handle that is good for digging that type of trench-- Since it will be narrow, no need for a huge wide hole. I'll check the garden center at Walmart later as well. Might even hit up Tractor Supply if Walmart doesn't have anything.


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## Chris (Nov 28, 2017)

Any car battery will have at least 250 cranking amps


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## zannej (Nov 29, 2017)

Chris said:


> Any car battery will have at least 250 cranking amps


Yeah, I was checking out the selection at Walmart today- they had a bunch of overpriced ones. But, the nice thing was, the CCA and size were on the side of the batteries in very large font. They had a cheap battery box but it had holes in the top for venting and no holes for wires. I'm hoping to find one with no vents on top and that has room for wires on the side. 
Saw a tool for digging at Walmart but handle really sucked. I'm going to Alexandria tomorrow to take my friend up to find some clothes for his father's funeral and am hoping to hit the walmart up there bc they have a larger selection. Didn't get to go to Tractor Supply.

Another thing I just thought of is that I should have some sort of lighting at the gate for people to read the keypad at night. I think a simple LED that can run off the battery and maybe be turned on with a sensor or timer might be ok. Although, I wonder if that would drain the battery too much?


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## zannej (Dec 1, 2017)

My buddy told me that his workplace (O'Reilly's) has batteries and boxes in stock-- but he's not planning to show his face there for a few days since he's on bereavement leave.

I realized that in one of my earlier posts there was a battery for about $13 but I don't know the CCA on it or if it would work with this particular opener. Waiting to get a response on it.

I was reading reviews of the FM137 keypad and people were saying you can wire it for signal but not for power and it would still need 3 AA batteries. I want to wire it for power, so I'm trying to find out if that can be done.

I believe the wire I need is 16/2. HD sells it for 0.36¢ per foot and if I bring Mom I get 10% military discount. I do need to measure the distance to where I want to put in the panel and then factor in extra feet for going up the pole. I believe it's more than 50ft from the gate, but not sure by how much. I'm thinking 100ft to be safe. Amazon sells a pre-packaged 100ft one. But the HD stuff would come in a little cheaper.

When I looked for thermostat wire I just got stuff that was really expensive in the list. So I figured landscaping wire would work.

I have some old metal railroad ties/I-beams and I could put one under the gate (buried in the ground) covering the wire to the keypad/button if I can find one that can work while wired for power.

The gate opener was delivered last night. Now we just need to get the rest of the stuff to make it work. I need to examine that main gate post and see if it can be stabilized rather than replaced. Would make things a lot easier that way.


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## nealtw (Dec 1, 2017)

Our key pad has worked for 9 years, still on the same batteries.


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## zannej (Dec 1, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Our key pad has worked for 9 years, still on the same batteries.


Is it the FM137 one? And is it backlit? I've just had some bad experiences with batteries going south quickly around here. It takes 3AA ones-- Is that what yours used?

If the batteries will last, I suppose I won't need to run wires to the FM137.

On the inside I can have this button (which I will probably put under some sort of cover to keep it out of the rain) and I will have it in a spot that people can't just reach around and press from the outside.

Edit: Just had an epiphany of sorts. Since Fedex/UPS drivers normally get out on the right, I could mount the keypad on the right and maybe I could program it with temporary keypad code or one specifically for deliveries and leave that code with delivery instructions for UPS and FedEx. That way, I wouldn't have to run the wire under the gate. Also, I could mount the cheap doorbell type button on a post inside the yard where someone could reach out their window and push it and then have the gate open inward and they could drive out. I'll have to program it to shut automatically after x number of seconds.

Wonder if it would be a pita to have some sort of chime/sound play inside the house whenever someone opens the gate... If I had something wireless with long range it might work.


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## nealtw (Dec 1, 2017)

Don't know what ours has but it is not backlit. The GF has a back lit one but it has a 9 volt. I changed that once. They are door openers but same thing, most can open either or .
Key fobs will open both but you need special ones for older garage lifts.
If you hard wire it, even to just power it, it will look like the wire could be jumped so you may be asking for damage 
The exit button, put that on a post that the driver can reach with out getting out
You can look at wireless door bells too. 
https://www.amazon.ca/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...argid=kwd-298093171103&ref=pd_sl_2gwtkt5aza_b


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## zannej (Dec 1, 2017)

Thanks, Neal! 
I'm now thinking I should go with a wireless button (on the inside to let people out) mounted on a post or something like this would be good-- I could play around with height to make sure people could reach it from taller vehicles and shorter ones. The reason for wireless is because I can set up the gate lock and opener to operate on the same frequency and it would be less hassle than trying to wire it. Would be less wire and digging.

I like the doorbell idea. I could put it under the keypad. If I could get one set up in the kitchen that rings loudly enough to be heard in the entire house, it would be great. Or maybe I could have small speakers in each room of the house wirelessly linked to the central one. I wonder if my ASUS RT-N66U router could boost signal for the doorbell.

This one looks pretty good. 1300ft range is not bad.


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## nealtw (Dec 1, 2017)

Opening the gate is one thing, expecting people to close it might be stretch.


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## zannej (Dec 1, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Opening the gate is one thing, expecting people to close it might be stretch.


That's why I want to rig it to close after x number of seconds-- say 30 or 45.
Then I could use this Automatic Gate Closes in 30 Seconds sign.
And Automatic Gate Do Not Push Or Climb On Gate sign.

I may be able to make my own out of decent paper (print it out) and laminate it though.


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## nealtw (Dec 1, 2017)

zannej said:


> That's why I want to rig it to close after x number of seconds-- say 30 or 45.
> Then I could use this Automatic Gate Closes in 30 Seconds sign.
> And Automatic Gate Do Not Push Or Climb On Gate sign.
> 
> I may be able to make my own out of decent paper (print it out) and laminate it though.



I have seen closers but the were 120 volt,
I found these instruction. If you are using this on wire fence you will have to put a safety something over the connection to the gate. 
Simple to pull a cotter and clevis pins.
https://www.mightymule.com/wp-content/uploads/FM200-Mighty-Mule-gate-opener.pdf


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## zannej (Dec 1, 2017)

The description of the one I got says it can be programmed to close itself after a specific time period-- it can also be told to only open a certain distance.

Install instructions for the MM360: https://www.mightymule.com/wp-content/uploads/Mighty-Mule-MM360-Single-Gate-Operator-Manual.pdf

And this is the manual for the lock https://www.mightymule.com/wp-content/uploads/FM143-Mighty-Mule-Automatic-Gate-Lock.pdf

Gate is metal tube with some chickenwire on it.


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## zannej (Dec 1, 2017)

My revised but crappy sketch. 






I noticed that neither manual seems to account for mounting to a very thick wood post (like the kind used for power poles) so I'll have to make sure I secure it all properly.

Read that mfr recommends 10w solar panel for the gate lock in conjunction with the opener, but the kit came with 5w. Since the wattage of the panel doesn't directly affect it, I hope the 5w will be sufficient. So long as the battery stores enough juice and re-charges at a decent rate, it should be ok. I hope.


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## nealtw (Dec 1, 2017)

Brackets will work on a post, just change out the bolts for lags.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Fasteners-Bolts-Lag-Bolts/5-16-in/N-5yc1vZc2haZ1z0sfzu


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## zannej (Dec 1, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Brackets will work on a post, just change out the bolts for lags.
> https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Fasteners-Bolts-Lag-Bolts/5-16-in/N-5yc1vZc2haZ1z0sfzu


Thanks! I'm thinking of using 6 of them total (along with washers) in the slots to make sure it's very secure.
I hope the pole being rounded doesn't create problems. I might need to add shims of some sort behind to make it flat.

Would zinc plated be ok or should I go for a different metal?

I'm thinking 6 of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-5-...ant-Coating-Lag-Screw-4571820801007/202041045

or a pack of these that are zinc-plated and 5" long https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-16-in-x-5-in-Zinc-Lag-Screw-25-Pack-801500/204282508


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## zannej (Dec 3, 2017)

Since Mighty Mule recommended a 10w solar panel, I'm thinking of getting an inexpensive 10w panel and using the 5w for lighting (or linking them together) if possible.

Amazon had this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W80N8TA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And it recommended also getting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VLMRP2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

But I don't know if that is necessary. MightyMule said the control panel prevents the battery from overcharging.


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## Chris (Dec 4, 2017)

Mighty mule gate opener auto close and have the safety feature to open back up if something touches the gate while moving. Everything is adjustable including how far it opens and closes


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## zannej (Dec 5, 2017)

Chris said:


> Mighty mule gate opener auto close and have the safety feature to open back up if something touches the gate while moving. Everything is adjustable including how far it opens and closes


yeah, I saw you can control how much force the obstacle must exert before it stops. And I think it opens to like 110 degrees max. I'll have to play around with settings. 

For the solar panel, do you think it needs the overcharge protector thingy?


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## zannej (Dec 13, 2017)

My mother ordered the battery, box, and wire for the gate opener. What do you think I will need to connect the 16/2 wire to it? I got the box that has the ports to connect it on the outside (so the box can remain closed and not have holes). This box. I couldn't find any other boxes that already had holes on the sides for wires or that didn't have vents on the top that would let rain in.

We ordered the 10w solar panel for $25 as well. Since Mighty Mule said the control panel would prevent overcharging, we didn't get the overcharge protection thing.

I am also looking for a good light. Someone on another forum recommended this light but reviews say it is not entirely waterproof and the sensor needs to be sealed up somehow. Not sure how to do that. I asked how to connect it and was told "Connect the light directly to the battery posts using the fuse in the positive line for protection." only I'm woefully ignorant and don't know exactly how I would connect it. LOL. And I wonder if I need little rubber caps for where it connects on the outside or some sort of water protection. I will get some protection being under trees, but I want to make sure it doesn't get shorted out.

I'm hoping 100' of wire will be sufficient. I think the distance is about 75' give or take 10'. I haven't actually measured and am having to guess.


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## MrMiz (Dec 18, 2017)

I had a Mighty Mule on solar about 800ft from my house. I hated it. It worked most of the time when the sun was out and it was nice, but on those miserable days with rain, or snow it only made it about half a day. The gate got pretty heavy use. If it was cloudy outside for more than a day it was down the whole time, and it if snowed it covered the panel so you had to make sure you cleared it. Then one day it just stopped working. Check the solar and was getting output, check the battery, and it was the same. So I took it apart and the actuator blew the main aluminum bracket that held everything together. At that time I didn't know how to weld aluminum ( which sent to me enroll in welding in the local community college.). I decided I wanted to run a hard line all the way to the gate. At first it freaked me out cuz I thought copper was the only option, but then I found out you can still get large gauge aluminum. It was still an investment but now that it's done it was worth it. I did have to trench 800ft as well. I also put a weather proof outlet and a yard light at the gate and both have served me incredibly well over the last 2 years. I upgraded the gate openers too after watching some tear downs of the Liftmaster gear online. I would do the hard run again in a heart beat.



zannej said:


> So, this is my front gate from the outside:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## zannej (Dec 18, 2017)

Thanks, MrMiz. Trenching and running line would be problematic due to the trees and  waterlines-- it would intersect some. I tend to get a lot of sun and the gate would be used maybe two to four times a day-- generally only two and on some days zero. I'm hoping the battery will hold enough of a charge from all of the sunny days that it won't be an issue.


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## Chris (Dec 19, 2017)

zannej said:


> Thanks, MrMiz. Trenching and running line would be problematic due to the trees and  waterlines-- it would intersect some. I tend to get a lot of sun and the gate would be used maybe two to four times a day-- generally only two and on some days zero. I'm hoping the battery will hold enough of a charge from all of the sunny days that it won't be an issue.



I never had an issue with mine in a fairly sunny area.


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## zannej (Dec 20, 2017)

My one concern is that if there are several days of rain the panel might not get enough power. But, worst case scenario, I can always remove the pins to allow the gate to be opened manually if it won't open electrically. And I believe I have a battery charging thing somewhere that I could use to connect to the battery to charge it.

I now have all of the essential things except for the lag bolts (which I plan to get in at HD). I will be going up to Alexandria tomorrow when I pick up my sister from the airport. I've been trying to power through getting things cleaned before she gets here. My brother didn't come home until 5am so he's probably going to sleep all day and refuse to help.

Other than the lag bolts, I still need to either stabilize or replace the gate posts. The guy who was supposed to help on that front hasn't come out in awhile bc his girlfriend was in the ICU with diabetic ketoacidosis. He was supposed to come out today, but it rained really hard last night so I'm not expecting him to come.

While I'm thinking on the gate post, if I do have to set a new one, any tips? In the past my father used treated lumber ones and poured some concrete around them-- but they all seem to have rotted. Should I spray the lower part with some sort of rubberized stuff like flex seal (or a generic version) so that any part touching concrete will be protected from moisture? The part where the gate locks is treated timber and the one it hangs from is an old utility creosote pole.

Unfortunately, I might not be able to get around to the install until February (unless I work on it while my sister is visiting).


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## MrMiz (Dec 20, 2017)

I know I'm beating a dead horse here, but I swear that my solar gate ONLY worked when it was nice outside. Ever single time there was bad weather we had to manually operate it. I guess I'm just one of those lucky exceptions, but it drove me mad. I think it only took me a little less than a day to use a backhoe and dig an 800ft trench and roll out the aluminum line. The hook up took me a lot longer because I can only do my projects on the weekend, but it all worked out good.


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## zannej (Dec 20, 2017)

MrMiz said:


> I know I'm beating a dead horse here, but I swear that my solar gate ONLY worked when it was nice outside. Ever single time there was bad weather we had to manually operate it. I guess I'm just one of those lucky exceptions, but it drove me mad. I think it only took me a little less than a day to use a backhoe and dig an 800ft trench and roll out the aluminum line. The hook up took me a lot longer because I can only do my projects on the weekend, but it all worked out good.


I'm getting a high efficiency solar panel. Maybe solar panels have just improved over the years? I know some can charge with less sunlight than they used to require. I'm hoping that I won't have any problems.
I don't have a backhoe. That reminds me though, I'll need to get a tool for trenching.


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## MrMiz (Dec 20, 2017)

If I remember right the solar panel was pumping out a constant 12v or 24v DC (can't remember now which one) as long as there was good sun. So the likely culprit in my situation was the battery. However I did change it out for a new one so I don't think that much has changed in the last 2/3 years with batteries in this application. However if it has it might be worth your dime to upgrade your battery to the new "hotness". That might keep you from running into what I had.
You can rent those 18" or 32" ditch witches from Home Depot now(at least in my area and we are somewhat rural). You still have to hand dig where you have existing lines but manual trenching is for the birds. I crossed a phone line, water line, and gas line with my trench. Though now that I think about it my water line was 6'+ down so I never crossed it I just dug down to confirm and didn't go down any farther then my test holes. I called the locator service had them come out then hand dug to find and confirm. Then I stopped my trenching at about 2ft from my lines and hand dug from the trench to the line. It's easier to hand dig when you have a trench already dug within 2 ft. The ground in my area is rock hard about 6" to 10" so getting under it and chipping into the trench makes it way easier.
Anyway I should stop trying to convince you to run a hard line! But I guess if your solar does make you nuts then you can always come back here  for this info.


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## nealtw (Dec 20, 2017)

MrMiz said:


> If I remember right the solar panel was pumping out a constant 12v or 24v DC (can't remember now which one) as long as there was good sun. So the likely culprit in my situation was the battery. However I did change it out for a new one so I don't think that much has changed in the last 2/3 years with batteries in this application. However if it has it might be worth your dime to upgrade your battery to the new "hotness". That might keep you from running into what I had.
> You can rent those 18" or 32" ditch witches from Home Depot now(at least in my area and we are somewhat rural). You still have to hand dig where you have existing lines but manual trenching is for the birds. I crossed a phone line, water line, and gas line with my trench. Though now that I think about it my water line was 6'+ down so I never crossed it I just dug down to confirm and didn't go down any farther then my test holes. I called the locator service had them come out then hand dug to find and confirm. Then I stopped my trenching at about 2ft from my lines and hand dug from the trench to the line. It's easier to hand dig when you have a trench already dug within 2 ft. The ground in my area is rock hard about 6" to 10" so getting under it and chipping into the trench makes it way easier.
> Anyway I should stop trying to convince you to run a hard line! But I guess if your solar does make you nuts then you can always come back here  for this info.



Depending on the  experience from the first installation, she could add another battery or another panel if needed. If that was still easier or cheaper than hard wiring.


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## zannej (Dec 20, 2017)

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it.

I'm not sure where my phonelines run or how deep they are. That is something to consider. My waterlines are not all that deep. My soil is sandy loam and clay with an abundance of tree roots. Basically, most of the state I live in used to be a delta. I don't plan to dig too deep. How deep are phonelines usually buried?

I'm really hoping that my friends will have time to get a lot of stuff done before they have to leave (I think one of them has to work at 4pm) tomorrow. They were going to test some of the wiring and also check on the gate posts to see if they can be reinforced. My sister's flight comes in a little after 6pm so I'll probably have to leave around 4, run the truck through the car wash, and so forth.

I have to say that I'm very pleased with the new LED shop lights. Only put up 3 out of the 4 because the outlets or wiring in the shop is not getting power where I wanted to plug in the 4th one. Old lights were fluorescent and dim. New ones are very bright and just 2 lights made a huge difference.


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## zannej (Dec 22, 2017)

Just went and got the lag bolts today. They have a "washerhead"-- built in washer. We couldn't find them at first so I pulled out my phone and looked up the bolts on homedepot's website (I forgot to write down the aisle and bay number beforehand). Found the ones on the list and then started searching. They were in a bin on the very bottom shelf. My back hates me today so it let out a big Grumpy Cat "Nope" on bending down to get it. Fortunately, my mother was with me in a riding cart so she could reach it.

So, now we have what we need to make it function (aside from the post stabilizing/replacement).

Will I need special connectors for the battery though?


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## MrMiz (Dec 22, 2017)

depends on the battery. Mine had the crimp type you push on the terminal. I'm going through past comments to see if you posted what battery you got. I attached a picture of what mine looked like from google. If your battery is in a weather proof enclosure those should work fine. If not you might want to wrap them or buy some kind of exterior grade ones.



zannej said:


> Just went and got the lag bolts today. They have a "washerhead"-- built in washer. We couldn't find them at first so I pulled out my phone and looked up the bolts on homedepot's website (I forgot to write down the aisle and bay number beforehand). Found the ones on the list and then started searching. They were in a bin on the very bottom shelf. My back hates me today so it let out a big Grumpy Cat "Nope" on bending down to get it. Fortunately, my mother was with me in a riding cart so she could reach it.
> 
> So, now we have what we need to make it function (aside from the post stabilizing/replacement).
> 
> Will I need special connectors for the battery though?


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## MrMiz (Dec 22, 2017)

I couldn't find if you posted which battery you ordered. So you might have to wait till it shows up, or post a link in here and I'll try to get back to you.


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## zannej (Dec 22, 2017)

MrMiz said:


> depends on the battery. Mine had the crimp type you push on the terminal. I'm going through past comments to see if you posted what battery you got. I attached a picture of what mine looked like from google. If your battery is in a weather proof enclosure those should work fine. If not you might want to wrap them or buy some kind of exterior grade ones.





MrMiz said:


> I couldn't find if you posted which battery you ordered. So you might have to wait till it shows up, or post a link in here and I'll try to get back to you.


Thank you!
What are those things called? (I'm woefully ignorant when it comes to this sort of thing).

I got this battery: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QGLAHWS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And this box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BMCL4M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 with 2 external 12 VDC auxiliary plugs


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## zannej (Mar 11, 2018)

I have pretty much everything needed to make it function now-- just need to stabilize/replace the posts & get some help with the labor. Haven't heard from the tractor guy but I know he must be busy. My friend who lost his father has also been very busy. Other guy who was cutting trees for $ never came back to finish the work and hasn't spoken to me since he asked to borrow a lot of money and we declined-- he's now in another state for the next 6 months doing some high-paying manual labor job. When my ankles heal enough that I can get back on my feet again, I'm going to do some measurements and check the posts to see if they are rotted (if not, I will try to stabilize them).

In terms of stuff that would just be nice to have for the gate, I was thinking this intercom might work. It can operate up to 1500 ft away, operates at 462MHz, the transmitter can be mounted outdoors, and the chimes for the doorbell like part can be changed. It went up in price since I last looked, so I might wait for it to go down again. I'm considering this light for the gate post to illuminate the intercom & keypad.

I'm also thinking of getting some things to make it look like there are cameras (out of reach for people on the outside of the yard) and signs saying it is being monitored by video to discourage creeps from trying to steal the intercom or keypad.


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## zannej (Mar 28, 2018)

While AT&T was out repairing my phoneline (was a bad line in their box) the technician was kind enough to track and mark where my phonelines were buried underground. Fortunately, it is nowhere near where I need to dig for the solar panel wire. I need to make sure they give him credit because he was getting chewed up by mosquitoes and was very polite the whole time. As an aside, I made the customer service lady laugh pretty hard when I told her that the tech should worry about the cow instead of the dog. I said if the cow was out he needed to honk his horn so I could go out there and make sure she left him alone. So, I heard the honk and went out. She behaved though-- just watched him a bit while she was grazing and didn't try to get up in his face like she did with people from the power company. She was actually afraid of his sensor thingy that detected where the wire was.

When I'm able to check whether or not my gate posts are rotted or if the concrete was just too small to hold them securely to keep them from tipping, I will know if I need to replace the posts or just shore them up. I saw an interesting technique where a person used some pressure treated 2x4s rated for ground contact. He dug a hole about a foot wide, dug a little deeper just the size of the post. Set it in, leveled it, tamped the ground around it to make sure it was sturdy and compacted, then screwed a 2x4 to the side of the post flat against the ground to prevent it from tipping forward. Then used another 2x4 perpendicular to it that jutted out on both sides to keep it from tipping side to side, then buried the boards and filled in a few inches above. I'll need to see what depths he was working with and figure out if I can do something similar, but the concrete my father used might get in the way a bit, but hopefully I can figure something out.


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## tuffy (Mar 29, 2018)

Your smart with this kinda stuff you'll  figure it out i have faith in you


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## zannej (Mar 29, 2018)

tuffy said:


> Your smart with this kinda stuff you'll  figure it out i have faith in you


Thanks, Tuffy. I'm not as handy or strong as my father was, but I did help him put up fences, gate posts, etc years ago. We would work on projects together and sometimes I would come up with ideas to make things work a little better and he had the skill to implement it. I was told that he always had very strong hands/arms-- even as a toddler. Apparently as a toddler he pulled his playpen apart with his bare hands so he could get out. The anniversary of his death was last weekend so I've been thinking about him a lot.

Btw, this was the guide I read about how to make a gate post stable. I didn't get the details right on the stabilizing. They used boards at different heights and then filled it in.

The post I'm working with is rounded instead of square. I haven't even seen ones like it for sale anywhere in years. It's pretty much like the posts on the fence in this video (only darker in color).


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## nealtw (Mar 29, 2018)

before we used concrete to set posts we did that with stones and pounded them down to tighten the post to the sides of the hole but wire fence corner or end should have angle braces.


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## zannej (Mar 30, 2018)

Thanks, Neal.  We have that on a corner post to the gate for the back 13 acres but the front gate that will have the opener is not a corner. It's just on a long run of fencing across the front. I think it's about an 800 foot run, but I could be mistaken. I used the satellite images to guesstimate the lengths and wrote the notes somewhere...
We did anchor ours in concrete but many of those posts are now tipping. Some have already fallen over. Others rotted because they weren't rated for ground contact. I may be able to add a brace like that on the inside of the gate (just out of the way of the swing) but I will probably have to do some underground bracing to keep the main post from tipping to the right (which would make the gate sag when almost closed).


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## Mastercarpenty (Apr 19, 2018)

It's sad but today's ACQ treated lumber just doesn't hold up- especially underground. Nobody here sells A/G treated anymore due to excessive warranty returns, everything is U/G rated. If you want it to last U/G you have to resort to home-done treatments that are no longer legal. With enough people doing that the pollution problem of CCA treated will look puny in comparison. Not all Government regulations are smart!

Phil


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## zannej (Mar 14, 2021)

Update. Never got this installed, but it's probably a good thing because we got hit with 2 hurricanes last year & it took the gate out. Fortunately, it only took down one gate post and the other one is sort of ok. I need to dig to adjust it, but the phoneline runs right near it so I will have to be careful. 
I did find a wireless backlit keypad with a cover though.


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## zannej (Mar 15, 2021)

I recently watched this video:


There was another one I saw that linked to that one where the guy had a large tortoise named Coco. It wandered up while he was doing the video, he casually says "Hey, Coco" and continues his spiel.

I like the idea of using the 2x4s to reduce leaning. He mentioned 2x6s for gate posts so I will have to price out the 2x6s and find the appropriate paint/sealant to cover over. I'm debating whether I should pre-attach the 2x6s and dig out to fit around them and then hammer them in. Or would it work if I dug a larger hole big enough for the 2x6s and the post and filled with Quickrete?


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## MrMiz (Mar 15, 2021)

Those cracked out neighbors of yours need to go to trade school so they can weld you a metal gate and post and set it in concreate. With the price of lumber so high metal is an super attractive option. Course maybe metal in your area has gone up too? There is still a big oil boom going on in my area so it seems like the metal supply yard is loaded for dirt cheap and they always have drops from the oil field for even cheaper.
I just looked it up I got a 4x4x just under 8' for $20. They had a stack of them bigger than my truck in the "bone yard". Apparently they got a big order to cut down the 20' to size and they didn't want to haul the drop. So when I pulled up and grabbed one out of the huge stack the guy looked at me and I swear he contemplated not even charging me, but only for a sec.



zannej said:


> I recently watched this video:
> 
> 
> There was another one I saw that linked to that one where the guy had a large tortoise named Coco. It wandered up while he was doing the video, he casually says "Hey, Coco" and continues his spiel.
> ...


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## MrMiz (Mar 15, 2021)

I also forgot to mention I used the method in that video regularly around here and it works great in sandy loam with clay soil. If you've got enough clay mixed in there it makes it set like concrete. I haven't put a gate on it but it works good when your pulling wire fencing tight. Normally it would tilt and lift the post out of the ground but with that support it keeps it pretty straight up. Till grandma hit's it with the tractor. 



zannej said:


> I recently watched this video:
> 
> 
> There was another one I saw that linked to that one where the guy had a large tortoise named Coco. It wandered up while he was doing the video, he casually says "Hey, Coco" and continues his spiel.
> ...


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## Fireguy5674 (Mar 16, 2021)

In my neck of the woods, I just go pick out a hedge tree and cut the post I want from Hedge.  It will out last a treated post by about 20 years.  I realize you probably don't have that option.

If you are going to pull a fairly long run of fence, another option is a brace post.  Set your corner post, then about 6' to 8' away set another post.  Close to the top of both posts, place a bar or heavy piece of wood parallel to the ground and secure to the posts.  Then run a loop of #9 or heavier wire from the bottom of corner post diagonally to the horizontal bar at the brace post. Secure where it goes around both posts.  Now place a 2 x 4, a short heavy stick or a piece of pipe through the wire loop. Twist the wire until everything is tight.  You have now built a system that has two triangles and should not be able to move.  The key system the video refers to could be incorporated into this as well.  If you are going to run fence another direction from this corner repeat in that direction.  If you want to put a gate in, use this on both sides of the gate.  I would also find 9' posts and bury 4' at corners and gates.  Obviously that gives your posts more support.  Fences built this way are more work and expense, but will be there for decades with no issue.

If grandma hits that with the tractor it might be hard on the tractor.


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## zannej (Mar 17, 2021)

Thanks for the replies.
To clarify: I have fencing run but it has been damaged in several spots because trees on the other side were uprooted and the roots pulled some of the posts up and tore the fence. There are large pits underneath-- I'd say some are at least 5' deep if not deeper. The post itself got snapped off just above grand level. The other post is wobbly.

Metal in my area did go up and is harder to find (also harder to drill through). 

I wish my cracked out neighbors would help, but then, they'd feel they are owed something so it's best that they don't. Considering I suspect they poisoned two of my dogs, I'm not wanting them anywhere near my home.

I watched a helpful video on how to mount the Mighty Mule gate opener. I believe I have an old flattened rectangular metal plate a late elderly friend gave me, so I may be able to use it to mount hardware. I will need to get still images from my videos to show the current state of the gate and fence posts-- as well as the huge uprooted trees. Too bad we don't have those guys from TV who are looking for logs. They would love these trees-- big oaks with lots of wood.


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