# Garage Ceiling installation



## SoFaKingCity (May 4, 2007)

Hi all!  I'm trying to install ceiling for my garage, and I don't know where to begin with .  I don't know whether to go sheetrock, drywall or suspended ceiling??  

People at the Lowes recommended sheetrock, but I think I am going to have some problem screwing them down since the frame is 47in far apart. Or how do you screw them down anyway??  Can I go with drywall on the ceiling instead of sheetrock?


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## SoFaKingCity (May 4, 2007)

More pics


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## glennjanie (May 4, 2007)

Hello SofaKingCity and welcome to the forum:
Your ceiling joists are spaced on 48" centers and that will not support drywall, Sheet rock  or any other kind of gypsum wallbaord. The maximum span is 2' centers and that will sometimes show sags after the first year.
I recommend a suspended tile ceiling (with the metal rails) and I would use a fiberglass tile because it is more resistant to moisture.
Glenn


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## SoFaKingCity (May 4, 2007)

glennjanie said:


> Hello SofaKingCity and welcome to the forum:
> Your ceiling joists are spaced on 48" centers and that will not support drywall, Sheet rock  or any other kind of gypsum wallbaord. The maximum span is 2' centers and that will sometimes show sags after the first year.
> I recommend a suspended tile ceiling (with the metal rails) and I would use a fiberglass tile because it is more resistant to moisture.
> Glenn



Thanks Glenn, another question concerning suspended ceiling, there is moving garage door and garage door brain box is sitting in the middle. How can I get around to it?? thanks


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## glennjanie (May 4, 2007)

Suspend the ceiling 2" below the joists (the minum working space), then your only obstruction to work around is the vertical angle that holds the opener motor up.
Glenn


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## glennjanie (May 4, 2007)

Here's another method to hold the ceiling up. You see how they used strips on the rafters to strengthen the metal (probably 2 X 4s). You can do the same to the bottom of the joists and then use the gypsum wallboard if it is that critical to you. It is a lot of extra expense and trouble though; hope you have a 16d nail gun.
Glenn


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## SoFaKingCity (May 4, 2007)

glennjanie said:


> Suspend the ceiling 2" below the joists (the minum working space), then your only obstruction to work around is the vertical angle that holds the opener motor up.
> Glenn



The problem is that the middle garage door roller rail isn't level like the sides. I cant work below it because ceiling will meet moving garage door, and I cant work above it since you need 2" space.


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## Square Eye (May 5, 2007)

You need need more ceiling joists for any ceiling to work properly. Add a ceiling joist in between the ones you have now. Then attach them to the rafters with 2x4s A Drywall ceiling is going to be heavy. Make sure you have a good attachment between the rafters and the ceiling joists.

Just a thought, since it is a garage.. 

You could install a foam board ceiling. Some of it will accept paint. Nothing any more lightweight out there. Easy to cut, light enough and stiff enough to handle.


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## glennjanie (May 5, 2007)

Sorry, I thought it looked like more space between the door and the ceiling joists. The foam board mentioned by Square Eye sounds like a good alternative; ridgid an light weight. If that wold still cramp the garage door or works, you might consider raising one or two sections to clear it.
Glenn


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## inspectorD (May 6, 2007)

One issue with foam board is its flammability....sometimes it needs a non-flammable coating or sheetrock over it. Sounds like adding some joists is the best solution...then sheetrock.


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## SoFaKingCity (May 7, 2007)

this is going to be a lot harder than I thought it will be.


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## glennjanie (May 7, 2007)

Good Morning, SoFaKingCity:
I am going to have to agree with Inspector D and Square Eye. Put another joist in between each 4' space, suspend it with 5 2 X 4s on each one to stabilize it and use gypsum wallboard for the ceiling. If your garage door would interfere with that ceiling; you may want to consider raising a section of ceiling to clear the door.
It will take some extra work but it is not hard work, just time consuming.
Glenn


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## JOYCEHORAN (Aug 23, 2011)

What about using 3/8 plywood for garage ceiling?  Would 24" rafters support that weight.


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## squirly (Apr 25, 2013)

hi all: i"ve recently insulated my garage ceiling with r20 insulation inbetween the rafters and then covered it with plastic just wondering now if this o.k I live in central ontario canada. Then wondering if this don"t rote out my roof.


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## nealtw (Apr 25, 2013)

Welcome squily: In the future start a new thread intead of pulling up an old one. 
No; the insulation wants to breath on the open side, if you are heating the garage the poly should be under the insulation. If you really want to cover the insulation, I can't think of a good reason, but you would use house wrap. It would protect it from wind and rain but still allow moisture to evaporate thru it.


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