# Load Bearing Wall Removal Advice (point load?)



## stringer9 (Oct 16, 2010)

Hi there
New to this thread but wanted to get some advice from anyone out there.  Im removing a load bearing wall from the first floor of a 1939 tudor style house in Denver.  The load that I am working with is under the hip-roof portion of the house.  The wall that I am removing runs in the same direction as the ceiling joists however in the attic there is a beam (I believe its called a Purlon?) that runs midway along the roof joists around the hip roof section.  To hold the beam up, supports (3 2x4's forming a "V" shape) bring the load from that beam down to a few walls in the house.  Because there are no ceiling joists resting on this wall, I just need to deal with either relocating or resupporting the "V" elsewhere.  What would you recommend?  Is this normal framing for a hip roof or is this just additional support for a snow load?  Pictures attached.
Thanks in advance!


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## oldognewtrick (Oct 16, 2010)

Stringer, what type of roof surface is on your house?


...and welcome to House Repair Talk.


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## stringer9 (Oct 16, 2010)

Thanks!
Its the original 1x8 planks covered with a layer of OSB board, felt and dimensional asphault shingles (just one brand new layer).


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## GBR (Oct 16, 2010)

Hard to make a ruling as we don't know the rafter size, span, or spacing. The rafters could be over-spanned and the purlins and struts added at installation to compensate. Very hard to re-locate the struts as they are where they belong to handle normal loads and additional snow loads. You could possibly install a beam in the attic running from other bearing walls, carrying that load, to compensate, but the bearing to the ground below would be a real pain to accomplish. Could you add a new beam in the attic directly above the existing wall? Remember when you remove a section of wall from below it affects the shear flow from the roof above. What would be removed below? Does this wall run to the outside wall?

Gary


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## inspectorD (Oct 17, 2010)

I know you already know this, however,you could follow the advice of strangers and end up with a serious problem costing thousands of dollars.
Or you can call in an engineer for $300 and have a piece of paper to go along with the right way to do it. 
I would just hate to hear you have cracked ceilings and sagging joists that go along with the roof leaks this winter.

Bottom line is, there will be a beam in the attic to span the load, but where the posts go to carry that load, or if it will even fit are the answers we guess at.
Hope this helps, and good luck.


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## stringer9 (Oct 17, 2010)

Thanks for the fast responses!
I was thinking about doing exactly that- replacing it with a beam (maybe two 2x12's) which would carry the load back to the exterior wall and an internal load bearing wall (which I was going to beef up to handle the new load).  In the basement the load is transferred through the floor but there is no wall underneath the wall Im removing.  this makes me think the struts and beam are just there for supplemental support then I see that the rafter spacing is 24 inches which leads me to believe the beam and struts are there for more than just supplemental support?  Maybe time for an engineer....


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## oldognewtrick (Oct 17, 2010)

stringer9 said:


> Maybe time for an engineer....



Yep. Time for an engineer.


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## superJon (Oct 20, 2010)

From the sounds of it this is a pretty complex project. Have you considered reaching out to any of the local universities to see if you can get some AE help? As an engineering student, we'd love the opportunity to "consult" on something like this. I know my professors would be all over the real-world opportunity. 

(Not sure how insurance and all that good stuff works, but seems like a great opportunity. Just as long as we've got some hardhats we'd be set)

Good luck - 

A


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## stringer9 (Oct 25, 2010)

Great Idea! Ill look into that.  Thanks


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