# Wet Block Wall



## andrea&tom (Jun 2, 2008)

We recently bought our home in FL.  When we had it inspected we were told that one of the exterior block walls had "100%" moisture... UH OH!  The drywall inside is 30% we were told is ok.  He told us we needed to dry it with some type of dryer, caulk it and repaint it...  What type of dryer and where do I get it?  Can I rent one?  Any ideas?  We want to get it taken care of before rainy/hurricane season really starts...  June 1st was yesturday AHH!!  Thanks!  Andrea and Tom


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## BimmerJon (Jun 2, 2008)

You'd better rip out some drywall and check for mold.

Also, the correct way to fix it, is not from the inside, its from the outside.

Dig up the ground and tar and seal the outside wall, plus install some sort of drainage system..

I doubt any inside drylock product painted on the wall is going to help you.


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## CyFree (Jun 27, 2008)

Is this wall above or below grade? Where is this moisture coming from? Is there any slope in the terrain? You said just ONE of the walls is soaked?

I figure you need to find out how did the water get to soak that wall, if it is an above grade wall. If it is a below, or partially below grade wall, my bet is, you will need to check your gutters, rain spouts, grading and anything that might be pouring water or causing it to puddle around that wall.

If you do not eliminate the source of moisture, and properly waterproof that wall, you will be drying it over and over.
And yes, if there is drywall on the inside, check for mold behind it. Mold tends to breed in organic materials (drywall) and moist conditions.


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## mudmixer (Jun 27, 2008)

Your inspector probably had a cheap, amateur moisture meter that reads averge moisture at or near the surface.

To find out the real moisture, a meter with pentrating probes should be used. These can also be calibrated for different materials.

A good moisture intrustion expert can accurately pinpoint moisture and possible entry area with just afew probes.

Cy is right about finding the source of the moisture and eliminating it before a major tear-out.


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## 2 old 4 this (Jan 18, 2009)

Thank you for making this forum possible,this is my first post and hope someone here will have some good advice for me.
I have a over 50 yr old house,partial cinderblock,which is the laundry room and bathroom. I live in Oregon..rain,rain,rain. 
In the bathroom behind the toilet the walls have moisture from leaking pipes(fixed now)but black mold has been growing ,the plaster is falling off . There are cracks and holes. 
I'm 61 female with very limited income,so thats whats going on here. I am chipping off the loose plaster and using a mildew root penetrator & remover. I was going to use going to use  water stop cement to fill in on the inside. I could really use some advice.
Thank you
really 2 old 4 this


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## yesitsconcrete (Jan 23, 2009)

1st advise's don't waste $ on hydraulic cement as wtr'll just find another weak spot,,, IF you're lucky, you can stop it outside - other'n that, sumps & pumps're the most reliable repair method.

no matter what happens, this isn't an easy/inexpensive fix to someone 61,,, gender aside, its strenuous work best left to youth  

i'm 66 & have to do an exterior catch drain & drain piping tuesday,,, i hired out the labor    that's why we HAVE machines & young people, isn't it ? ? ?


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## 2 old 4 this (Feb 15, 2009)

Thanks yesitsconcrete,surely not the answer I was hoping for. 
I've been searching and finding more info.
 I dont have gutters on that side of the house,so that, and someone suggested better drainage. 
I dont think there is enough water for a sipon or pump. 
I had to chuckle about the " machines and young people ". No kids mowing lawns and doing chores for us old ladies in my area. 
Good luck with your catch drain project.
And thanks so much for you tips.

Jean


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