# Garage door opener installation (I-Joists)



## albanello (May 26, 2010)

Hi

I have just installer 11 7/8 I-Joist 16" OC so I can hang drywall in my garage. Could someone please tell me the best way to mount the garage door opener and tracks to the ceiling. I don't think a lag bolt into the bottom of the I-Joist is a good idea.

I have some ideas but am looking for the best method.

Thanks
albanello


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## havasu (May 26, 2010)

I understand your concern. Those wood I beams are delicate on the edges, but if the weight was evenly distributed, should handle the load. Your two other options would be to use steel brackets to a solid structure above the I beams, or make a plywood plate for the opener to secure to, but would not be fire code rated. 


Would it be possible to just include a solid 2 x 12 board where the track would run? It might be expensive, but would give the needed stability.


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## albanello (May 26, 2010)

havasu

Thank you for your reply. 

My idea is to screw a 2x4 to the top of the top flang of the I-Joist, fasten two plywood plates to the sides of the 2x4, fasten the two plywood plates to a 2x4 fastened between the bottom flang of the I-Joist, drywall then lag bolt the garage hardware to the bottom 2x4.

That should put all the load on the top of the I-Joist and not require any modification of the bottom of the I-joist. What do you think ?

Thanks
albanello


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## havasu (May 26, 2010)

That is a good idea. Just for curiosity, what is the span of your I beams?


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## albanello (May 26, 2010)

21 feet, this is at the outer limit but there will be no storage above *No head room). So I hope it will be OK. The lumber yard ran a program to verify this would work. the only load will be drywall. Carpenter said he would be hanging 1/2" drywall.

Thanks
Albanello


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## havasu (May 27, 2010)

I had a similar situation, but chose to lower my ceiling to accomodate a small attic area. Since the I beams are not designed to be used that way, it solved your problem for you. Good luck and make sure to post pics before, during and after the build!


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## albanello (May 27, 2010)

I raised the ceiling as high as possible so I can store a 4x8 trailer on its end against the back wall.

I'm curious, what did you mean by your statement "Since the I beams are not designed to be used that way". I don't understand, the I beams are designed for floor/ceiling joists....aren't they ?

I will get my pictures and post them tonight.

Thanks
albanello


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## havasu (May 27, 2010)

With a 16" on center, spanning 21+ feet, the I beams would be too weak to accommodate any load above it, unless they were double strung. I'm sure it could be done, but you would have too much flex causing your drywall to crack without additional structure support. If you wanted storage above, you would need to go 12" on center, minimum...from what I understand.


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## albanello (May 30, 2010)

havasu

Ok you asked for them. the pictures of "Before" and "During". I'll have to post the "After" once I get the drywall up.

Sorry it took so long.

albanello 

View attachment P1000148.JPG


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## havasu (May 30, 2010)

Great job so far! My only thought is hanging the drywall around the angle iron is going to be a bugger and with the flexing of it, you will need to allow a gap between the iron and the drywall. Why not cut in a 2 x 4 flat across the I Beams, directly where the opener is going to hang, and complete your drywall. Afterwards, you could hang the angle iron below the drywall, and it would not flex, nor would you need to allow an air gap between the iron and drywall?


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## albanello (May 30, 2010)

Hi havasu

I'm not clear on what you are suggesting when you say "cut in a 2 x 4 flat across the I Beams". Are you saying across the Top of the I-Beam (My post #3) or across the bottom, screwed to the bottom of the I-Beam ?

Thanks it's coming along slowly right now I'm doing some electrical rewiring and finishing the insulation. Hopefully I will be able to get the drywall up in the next three or four weeks, if not sooner.

Have a good holiday.
albanello


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## havasu (May 30, 2010)

I was referring to securing the 2 x 4 on the bottom portion, allowing you to hang the drywall with no obstructions. Then, once the angle iron is mounted, it will itself be secured to the 2 x 4, with drywall sandwiched (between the 2 x 4 and angle iron) as a solid fire break.

 The reason for this is with that much angle iron suspended from well above the joists, you will get quite a bit of flexation when activating the door opener. Everytime it flexes, it will chip away at your drywall, look unsightly, and probably not pass fire code.


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## albanello (May 31, 2010)

Wow

That is contrary to everything I have been reading about I-Joists. It is my understanding I-Joists are constructed to deal with loads pushing down from above not pulling on them from below. My idea in post #3 pushes down from above.

Just a note the pictures are existing garage hardware installation it still needs to be moved.

I agree the angle iron, as is, threw drywall would be a bad idea.

Thanks for your response
albanello


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## havasu (May 31, 2010)

No, you are correct. These I Joists are designed to carry the load from above, where the joined wood can work together similar to a solid piece of wood, but with the light weight of the opener, could easily handle this load, provided it is attached to a solid base. The bottom of the joist (or beam) is not designed to be used as a lag point, so this is where the cross member 2 x 4 is utilized, provided it is secured through the vertical portion of the I Joist.


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## albanello (May 31, 2010)

havasu

I'm sorry but I can be a little dense at times. You are confusing me. Does my post #3 satisfy the, as you put it "provided it is secured through the vertical portion of the I Joist" or are you proposing a different solution. 

albanello


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## havasu (May 31, 2010)

Similar to # 3, but an easier solution using a lap jointed 2 x 4...I hope you can see the dumb diagram.....


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## albanello (Jun 1, 2010)

havasu

Thanks for the diagram. I understand what you are talking about now. (One picture worth 1000 words). BUT this puts ALL the force pulling on the bottom flange  of the I-Joist. Which by my understanding is what has to be avoided. My solution (Post #3) gets the same end result as you are trying to do "drywall sandwiched (between the 2 x 4 and angle iron) as a solid fire break." but the force is push down on the top of the I-Joist.

albanello


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## havasu (Jun 1, 2010)

You'll be good to go either way. Keep the pics coming as you complete the job!


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## albanello (Jun 3, 2010)

FYI

Here are two links to pdf the I-joist manufacture sent me in response to me asking the recommended method of mounting Garage Hardware to I-joist. It talks about a sprinkler system mounting but I guess it could be used for garage door hardware also.

http://www.ilevel.com/literature/COM-1000.pdf
http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TB-808.pdf

Hope this can help somebody

albanello


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## havasu (Jun 3, 2010)

Good stuff, thanks!


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## albanello (Aug 18, 2010)

Got garage door hardware done and drywall up. Need to take pictures and post. Don't let me forget


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