# How to replace drop ceiling with drywall?



## o2284200 (Jan 4, 2015)

I was hoping to be able to raise the ceiling a bit but due to plumbing  and air ducts, it appears not.  That said, after I remove the light,  duct vent, drop ceiling panels and metal frame.  Correct me, if I'm wrong but I assume my next steps  are to:

1) Plan out lights & electrical.
2) Make a new wood frame for the new drywall ceiling like this guy, who sounds like he's using 2x3s...What would you use? [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_QmhB5aDGI[/ame]


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## CallMeVilla (Jan 4, 2015)

The challenge is span and sagging.  I would use 2x4 lumber as a bare minimum for that reason depending on the span to be covered.  This is not a structural consideration but a support problem.  You can also use light weight drywall BUT 16"oc is absolutely necessary or you might experience sagging anyway ... don't skimp on framing.


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## nealtw (Jan 4, 2015)

Almost, you could get away with 2x3, we usually use 2x4, we put pressure blocks between every other joist at the wall so you have more nailing (now mostly metal hangers) as 2x4 or 2x3 don't have enough span load for drywall, where he put the piece on top you add struts up to the floor joists above. This allows you to cut the span by half or thirds.


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## o2284200 (Jan 5, 2015)

Thanks!
FWIW...The room is  22' 3" x 14' 7"


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## nealtw (Jan 5, 2015)

With the 2x4s 14+ft you want to hang them from the floor above in the center. so line them up with joists above so you can just nail a short block on the side.


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## o2284200 (Jan 29, 2015)

CallMeVilla said:


> The challenge is span and sagging.  I would use 2x4 lumber as a bare minimum for that reason depending on the span to be covered.  This is not a structural consideration but a support problem.  You can also use light weight drywall BUT 16"oc is absolutely necessary or you might experience sagging anyway ... don't skimp on framing.


Thanks!  
Hopefully I won't skimp on framing or anything else, for that matter with all of the help!  :beer:  
As to drywall...This kitchen ceiling has HVAC duct work, plumbing pipes, lighting & 2nd floor living area above it.   That said, what type of drywall would ya'll use in this situation?


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## slownsteady (Jan 29, 2015)

> As to drywall...This kitchen ceiling has HVAC duct work, plumbing pipes, lighting & 2nd floor living area above it. ........



Is all that stuff hanging down below the joists in the ceiling? Very often, a contractor (or homeowner) will not bother to tuck things away if he knows there will be a drop ceiling to cover it. Or do you have another reason to be putting the new ceiling below the drop ceiling? My instinct is to remove the old drop ceiling and see how much height you can keep. With a few adjustments, you may be able to do a traditional drywall ceiling without having to frame out like in the video above.

BTW. the guy in the video is using the metric system.


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## nealtw (Jan 29, 2015)

Yes you could build boxes to cover the hvac, not quit like this guy but you will get the idea.

Drywall, make sure you are not hiding any gas fittings, electrical junction boxes, plumbing valves or cleanouts. In new construction they use fire rated 5/8 drywall. Have you considered insulation or anything for sound proofing.


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## mako1 (Jan 29, 2015)

Are you running the joists for the drywall the 14'7" direction?Either way a 2X2 won't get it.You have been given some good info already but as always,Pics would help.


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## o2284200 (Jan 30, 2015)

Here you go...






This light is to the left of the fridge & desk leading to laundry room & garage.


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## o2284200 (Jan 30, 2015)

Here's a couple of shots above panels...The lighting up here is messed up!  There are some of those tubes just lying on panels and groups of lights hanging near one another like this...


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## o2284200 (Jan 30, 2015)

slownsteady said:


> Is all that stuff hanging down below the joists in the ceiling? Very often, a contractor (or homeowner) will not bother to tuck things away if he knows there will be a drop ceiling to cover it. Or do you have another reason to be putting the new ceiling below the drop ceiling? My instinct is to remove the old drop ceiling and see how much height you can keep. With a few adjustments, you may be able to do a traditional drywall ceiling without having to frame out like in the video above.
> 
> BTW. the guy in the video is using the metric system.


I will be removing the old drop ceiling but as far as getting much height, don't let the above panel pics fool you...I am limited unless I'm ready to move HVAC ducts and cast iron plumbing, which I'm not...I'll be happy, if I can keep the same height.


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## o2284200 (Jan 30, 2015)

nealtw said:


> Yes you could build boxes to cover the hvac, not quit like this guy but you will get the idea...


 Yes, I might be able to do this in some areas and gain some height.


nealtw said:


> Drywall, make sure you are not hiding any gas fittings, electrical junction boxes, plumbing valves or cleanouts. In new construction they use fire rated 5/8 drywall. Have you considered insulation or anything for sound proofing.


There is insulation in between the 1.5"x12" joists.


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## o2284200 (Jan 30, 2015)

mako1 said:


> Are you running the joists for the drywall the 14'7" direction?Either way a 2X2 won't get it.You have been given some good info already but as always,Pics would help.


Have not figured out what direction, yet...
But that being said, if you were also planning to re-face the cabinets, which would you do first...
Replace the drop ceiling or reface the cabinets?


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## nealtw (Jan 30, 2015)

Where is the duct and how big is it?


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## o2284200 (Jan 30, 2015)

nealtw said:


> Where is the duct and how big is it?


First pic shows a vent in middle of ceiling...
It's a good size..there are a couple of different runs.


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## beachguy005 (Jan 30, 2015)

While I can understand your desire to remove a drop ceiling, I'm curious as to your rational for doing it in this instance, especially since you won't be gaining any height.


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## o2284200 (Jan 30, 2015)

beachguy005 said:


> While I can understand your desire to remove a drop ceiling, I'm curious as to your rational for doing it in this instance, especially since you won't be gaining any height.


Remodeling/upgrading kitchen.


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## beachguy005 (Jan 30, 2015)

I get that.  My point is, are you doing it just for cosmetics?  You said you weren't getting any more height and there were things like plumbing and hvac that you need to box in.  I'm questioning if that effort is worth the probable result. Are you better off using the existing framework but just upgrade it.
New more attractive fixtures and tiles. Getting rid of those fluorescent fixtures and lenses and tiles, using a new tile that's more contemporary and small aperture recessed lights.
I'm just pointing out options.  While I generally dislike dropped ceilings, there are some that look pretty nice.


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## slownsteady (Jan 30, 2015)

Beachguy has a good point. If you're not gaining anything, you might just be creating work for yourself. Pop out the panels, clean up the mess, and put new tiles in. Before you decide, take a trip to the store and see what's available.

All that being said, and after see the pics, you probably want the ceiling to be the same height it is now. Your cabinets etc. are sized for that ceiling.


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## o2284200 (Feb 3, 2015)

slownsteady said:


> Beachguy has a good point. If you're not gaining anything, you might just be creating work for yourself. Pop out the panels, clean up the mess, and put new tiles in. Before you decide, take a trip to the store and see what's available.
> 
> All that being said, and after see the pics, you probably want the ceiling to be the same height it is now. Your cabinets etc. are sized for that ceiling.


Yes, I can just pop out and replace the panels but I feel when it comes time to sell, having a dry wall ceiling will add more resale value to the kitchen.   So, other than esthetics...I'd say more added resale value is what I'd be gaining, if not height.  

Besides, the entire frame trim is gold and the rest of the kitchen will be SS, grey, white & black but even if I can change that trim color in a cost effective manor, I don't feel I'll gain the same added resale value as having a dry wall ceiling but that may require another thread?


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## beachguy005 (Feb 3, 2015)

Painting the gold to flat white wouldn't be an issue.  If you can't get any more ceiling height you still have to attach sheetrock to some type of ceiling joist and those have to be perfectly level.  You'll also need to get them over the cabinets, unless you're planning on soffits.
see some ceiling tile options here....

http://www.armstrong.com/residentia.../drop-ceiling-tilespanels/_/N-1z141rfZ1z141qy


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## mmb617 (Feb 22, 2015)

Armstrong makes a system called drywall grid which is metal framing similar to what you'd use for a regular drop ceiling but strong enough to screw drywall to it. It's fairly new and we sold it where I used to work. There is a bit of a learning curve to understanding how it all goes together but it's pretty slick once you get the hang of it. Seems like it would be ideal for what you're wanting to do here.

http://www.armstrong.com/commceilingsna/products/drywall-grid-systems/_/N-l


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## fredcapo (Feb 22, 2015)

There is a similar system made by Chicago Metal.


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