# Older Magic Chef oven won't stay stay fully lit after being ignited



## 1victorianfarmhouse (Dec 28, 2018)

I have an older Magic Chef oven, Model 3468XTW.  The oven and stove generally work fine, but now the oven has developed an issue where in the Bake setting, the igniter will ignite the gas, and the entire tube will emit flame as it's supposed to, then it will die out to just the igniter flame.  I replaced the igniter with a new one, and it makes no difference; after the initial igniting on the Bake setting, the flame will still shrink back to the igniter.  The Broil option works fine on the top of the oven.  Any comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Vince


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## jeffmattero76 (Dec 28, 2018)

I am not sure I understand your question. Do you have an igniter that glows to light the gas, or do you have a pilot flame.

My confusion is when you say "igniter flame"

Do you have a flame sensor? Typically that would be a thin piece of metal that projects into the flame and  generates a small current that keeps the gas valve open. If you have one, you can sometimes clean it by lightly rubbing it with sandpaper.

You may want to go to repairclinic.com and enter your model number. They have diagnostic steps to take.


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## 1victorianfarmhouse (Dec 30, 2018)

Jeff, thanks for the reply!  I have an igniter that glows to light the gas for the lower part of the oven (Bake).  The igniter initially lights the flame at the back of the oven where the igniter is, and within a few seconds the flame travels toward the front of the oven.  Then in another few seconds, the flame retreats back to the igniter, and the oven doesn't get hot enough to really cook anything.  I've tried to chat with a tech on repairclinic, but he disappeared.


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## jeffmattero76 (Dec 30, 2018)

The chat people at repair clinic are really just parts sales people, for the most part. They used to have a "Repair Guru" who you could email, but they no longer have that.

Have you put your model number in, and then looked through the videos that come up? I am not an expert, but I do repairs at my rental properties, and it sounds to me like there is an issue with your gas valve. Does the same thing happen when you broil rather than bake?


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## nealtw (Dec 30, 2018)

It likely has a thermocouple that indicates heat and if it not reading the heat, it shuts the gas off.


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## jeffmattero76 (Dec 30, 2018)

nealtw said:


> It likely has a thermocouple that indicates heat and if it not reading the heat, it shuts the gas off.


Neal - that and/or a flame sensor occurred to me also. However, if that were the issue, wouldn't they cause the gas valve to close and thereby shut the flame down entirely? The OP stated that the flame retreats, but stays lit.


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## nealtw (Dec 30, 2018)

jeffmattero76 said:


> Neal - that and/or a flame sensor occurred to me also. However, if that were the issue, wouldn't they cause the gas valve to close and thereby shut the flame down entirely? The OP stated that the flame retreats, but stays lit.


Not if the pilot has it's own.
Here 12 pages of parts, and they offer to help while you are at their site.
https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-F...del-3468XTW-Magic-Chef-Range-Stove-Oven-Parts


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## jeffmattero76 (Dec 30, 2018)

nealtw said:


> Not if the pilot has it's own.
> Here 12 pages of parts, and they offer to help while you are at their site.
> https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-F...del-3468XTW-Magic-Chef-Range-Stove-Oven-Parts


A pilot AND an igniter??? I have never seen that.


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## 1victorianfarmhouse (Dec 30, 2018)

Hey, thanks, guys!  I did get a reply from the chat guy, but it opened in a window that was behind the other windows so I didn't get to see it right away.    The Broil function works fine, and he also mentioned it being a possible problem with the gas supply.   I have attached a picture of the flame when it is full, a few seconds later the blue flame will recede back towards the igniter at the back of the picture.  The hottest the oven will get in the Bake format is about 150, even if it's set at 350.


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## jeffmattero76 (Dec 30, 2018)

Agaun, not an expert, but, if the broil function works normally, that would seem to rule out a problem with the gas valve. 

Just as a test, try running the bake function at its highest temperature setting and see if it still does the same thing. I am beginning to suspect a problem with your thermostat.


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## 1victorianfarmhouse (Dec 30, 2018)

Thanks, Jeff.  I'll try that tomorrow and see how hot it gets.  I did try it a couple of times with the new igniter and both times Bake never got above 150 even with the dial at 350.


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## maxdad118 (Dec 31, 2018)

There’s no flame sensor with that setup. Is that igniter the same part #? Not sure if there are different values between dryer, furnace and oven/broiler igniters but if it doesn’t produce enough mAmps it may not open the valve? Do you smell gas? Does the burner valve open and light within 30-60 seconds? You can try swapping igniters with the broiler to check also and it doesn’t cost you anything. Be careful not to touch the ceramic portion that glows.


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## 1victorianfarmhouse (Feb 1, 2019)

Been meaning to find this thread and reply to maxdad's questions.  But just tonight another problem raised it's head, and it's similar.  So now I'm really anxious to track it down and fix it.  Before, the lower gas tube (Bake) would ignite and and the flame would spread down the tube like it's supposed to after a few seconds.  But, within a minute, the flame fades back to just the igniter and stays that way.

Now, the upper gas tube (Broil) is having the same exact problem.  

So, does that narrow down the possible components that may be malfunctioning?

Thanks!


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## maxdad118 (Feb 5, 2019)

Is the range the only gas appliance with issues? All other gas appliances working?


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## maxdad118 (Feb 5, 2019)

May have a control valve issue?


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## 1victorianfarmhouse (Feb 15, 2019)

Thanks!  Sorry to not reply sooner. The range is the only appliance having any issues with irregular gas supply.  The burners on top work just fine.  Something is causing the gas supply after the igniters start and the flame expands to shut off on an irregular basis, usually within a minute or so.  This started originally with the lower burner (bake), but has now affected the upper burner (broil).


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## nealtw (Feb 16, 2019)




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## 1victorianfarmhouse (Dec 6, 2021)

Ahh, for the love of a microwave....it's been a long time since I tried to do anything else on this oven.  Recently, I got to talking with a retired appliance guy about how I had an oven that wouldn't heat up like it's supposed to.  He asked if I had replaced the igniter and I told him it still has the problem even with a new igniter installed.  Sometimes it will ignite but not get very warm, other times it won't even ignite.  He then did some checking on his own and had me check the clock.  The clock works intermittently, which indicates there is a problem within the clock assembly itself, as that is where the power for the igniter comes from.  Apparently the clock is the "brains" of this oven.   So, after some checking, it appears that a replacement clock isn't that easy to find.    It is basically a Magic Chef oven,  model 3468xtw.  Problem is, the clock is also older and he isn't able to take it apart, and install a replacement.  And new burner or clock  clock isn't easy, either.  I've tried Sears Parts Direct, but they weren't able to help with finding the correct parts.    So, anybody got any great ideas short of buying a cheap new oven?

Thanks, Vince


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## sadavis80 (Dec 7, 2021)

There seems to be no such thing as a CHEAP new oven these days.  I'm astounded at the price tags hanging off those things.  However, MANY of the newer microwave ovens also include a CONVECTION OVEN for actual HEAT cooking.  I have one in my motorhome and it seemed to work quite well, the ONE time we used it several years ago.  I imagine you could find one like that that would come close to fitting in the space that your current oven occupies.
Steve


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## 1victorianfarmhouse (Dec 7, 2021)

Thanks, Steve.  I already have two microwaves in the house.  Sadly, they are far too small to cook a turkey or roast in.  Or a full size pizza.  I too am amazed at the prices they are charging for a new oven that doesn't seem as well made as the older ones.  That is why I would rather try to find the parts needed (or have the original ones repaired) to fix the existing oven which I've always kept nice and clean.


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## sadavis80 (Dec 7, 2021)

OK.. after going back and looking at the entire thread.. *I* think you just have a failed thermocouple on your oven.  When the oven calls for heat, the igniter activates and heats up to whatever temp it's going to get to.. after that temp is reached, the gas valve opens and allows the burner to ignite .. and thusly heat up the igniter .. (which is also a thermocouple) .. to tell the oven that the burner is .. BURNING.  If that thermocouple (Igniter) fails (or the wiring to it fails) or the INPUT (as opposed to the OUTPUT) back to the gas valve isn't right, then the flow to the burner shuts back off and the igniter goes off with it.  Then.. depending on exactly how it works, .. after a time.. it MIGHT restart the procedure based on the setting on the oven temp - allowing you to get SOME heat in the oven.. but not much.

SO... if you've already replaced the igniter, I'd go with the gas valve next (however, I'm more like you.. NOT an "expert", just 'pretty knowledgeable about all things in the universe (yeah, RIGHT   ) . Before hand, you should, of course, inspect the wire connection between the igniter and gas valve.. but you've probably already seen that pretty well. The igniter would normally come with a wire set preattached.. and that would plug into the gas valve .. or into the control board (if it has one). Assuming that wire looks good, your next step would be the gas valve... or the control board. Valve being probably MUCH easier to find than a replacement BOARD.. if it has such. Last step would be the control board.. My experience on this is more on a gas HEATER, since I haven't owned a gas oven in over 40 years - but that's the way my house and shop gas heaters work THEY both have control boards, but your oven might be simpler depending on just HOW OLD it is. The picture you posted indicates the the burner and igniter are working "properly" (for the most part). The only thing that's missing is the part that keeps the burner ON until the oven temp setting tells it to turn off.

Step at a time..


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## Guzzle (Dec 11, 2021)

1victorianfarmhouse said:


> 1. amazed at the prices they are charging for a new oven that doesn't seem as well made as the older ones.
> 
> 2. I would rather try to find the parts needed (or have the original ones repaired) to fix the existing oven which I've always kept nice and clean.


1. Supply & demand, even tho poorer quality.

2. Good strategy, cut your losses by not buying a computer-designed appliance designed to break one day after the warranty expires. 

When persons designed appliances they put in safety factors, but computers do not suffer from a lack of confidence.


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