# Dryer vent



## Blair1955 (Apr 22, 2007)

Any ideas about how to run the duct from the back of a dryer to the outside vent to allow me to move the dryer back further towards the wall? I know that if I replace the ridged duct it will give me about another inch and a half.  But I still need another inch at least. 


*Thanks to all Blair...*


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## glennjanie (Apr 22, 2007)

When I put our new dryer in I marked the hole's location on the inside wall and drilled to the outside, set the dryer in place and stuck the metal pipe in from the outside wall and onto the dryer. Of course, if the dryer is backing up to a basement wall and the vent comes out some other place that big idea will not work.
If that is the case you can use "wall stack" metal duct. It measures 3" X 10" and you will need enough to run just past the vent on the dryer and a couple of inches or so past the opening to the outside (it comes in 2' lengths so it should work out somewhere near the locations. Cap both ends, cut a 4" hole near one  end to slide onto the dryer and another 4" hole on the back side of the duct at the vent opening in your wall, run a piece of 4" pipe into the duct there but don't protude into the duct (make cuts around that end of the pipe 1/2" deep and 1/2" apart), bend some of the tabs out, stick the rest of them into the duct, reach through the pipe and bend the others out inside the duct to lock it in place. This will allow you to place the dryer only 3" from the back wall; hope that is enough.
Glenn


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## asbestos (Apr 22, 2007)

they make a thing that fits into the studs and allows you to hook up a dryer vent so as not to kink it.


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## Blair1955 (Apr 22, 2007)

Thanks guys, I typed wall stack metal duct into Google and came up with Dryer Vent Tite Fit, 2 x 6 at http://heating-and-cooling.hardwarestore.com/33-166-duct-pipe/dryer-vent-tite-fit-652262.aspx . Only $15.49 not bad deal at all. They say that the dryer can be pushed back as close at 3 inches from the wall. My dryer is now 7 inches from the wall. 

I had thought about running the duct straight out from the dryer to the outside. But I dont know if all dryer exhaust vents are the same height from the floor? If not the next time I buy a dryer I would have to repeat the same process all over. The laundry room is in an area where I could do this, as I dont have a basement, wish I did though.

*thanks again, Blair*


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## glennjanie (Apr 23, 2007)

Hey Blair:
Since you are in a position to cut the hole straight through the wall; I would go for it (as a matter of fact, I did) we can talk about a new dryer when the time comes. The hole is usually the same distance from the floor; its just that some are centered, some left and some right.
With a straight through opening you can get right up against the wall unless there is a baseboard and base shoe or a window aporn holding you off; as mine has.
Glenn


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## inspectorD (Apr 29, 2007)

I think what Asbestos was thinking of is called the www.dryerbox.com. I have never used one but it looks like it may do the trick.


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## asbestos (Apr 29, 2007)

yep. that's the one, seemed to work OK.
 If you could run ridged duct straight through the wall, that is A-1  no hose, no kinks, 100% flow


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## Blair1955 (Apr 30, 2007)

*Ill take a serious look into running the dryer vent straight out of the back. At the same time though the dryerbox looks like a good idea. Either way though the first thing I have to do is replace the sub floor under the washer and dryer in the laundry room.

*


*Blair*


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## rander (May 5, 2007)

You may be interested in a product called the DryerBox. It is installed in the wall between the studs and allows the dryer to sit almost flush against the wall.  They make several different models to suit most needs They make a retro-fit model for use after the walls have been closed. I included their web line below. Hope this is helpful

http://www.dryerbox.com/specifications.htm

Rander


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## glennjanie (May 6, 2007)

Hey Blair:
When you tear out the old floor, be sure you check the floor joists too. They may need some strenghening. I would use the new underlayment grade tounge and groove, oriented strand board, glued and screwed to the joists. Also use blocking in between the joists where the old and new underlayment joins, glued and screwed (2 X 4 blocks would be sufficient). Any loose, unsupported joints will squeak and break through in time.
Glenn


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