# Whole house fan issues



## CouchTater (Mar 16, 2016)

My whole house attic fan suddenly stopped working. I went to turn it on and nothing. Checked the breaker and it was not tripped. Went into the attic, which is more of a crawl space and very difficult to maneuver, checked the motor and not even a hum. I replaced the switch with no success and then replaced the belt and motor still not so much as a hum.At this point I am assuming it is not getting power for some reason. Any possible ideas what could be the issue? Do I need an electrician or would I call an HVAC tech? This fan is invaluable for keeping the house cool and I really need it working. Thanks in advance!


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## Snoonyb (Mar 16, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> My whole house attic fan suddenly stopped working. I went to turn it on and nothing. Checked the breaker and it was not tripped. Went into the attic, which is more of a crawl space and very difficult to maneuver, checked the motor and not even a hum. I replaced the switch with no success and then replaced the belt and motor still not so much as a hum.At this point I am assuming it is not getting power for some reason. Any possible ideas what could be the issue? Do I need an electrician or would I call an HVAC tech? This fan is invaluable for keeping the house cool and I really need it working. Thanks in advance!



So to clarify; There are attic fans which operate from a "set" thermostatic control and are mounted in the attic.

There are also "whole house fans" which mount in the ceiling and via a selective speed control, force air into the attic, and out the attic vents, thereby cooling the attic and the house.

Assuming you have the latter, before you changed the switch, did you check for the presence of voltage?

If you do not have an inexpensive voltage tester, you might invest in one.


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## DFBonnett (Mar 16, 2016)

Did you.... 
...check the power going to the switch? 
...use the correct replacement switch?
...check the output side of the switch to verify function?


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## CouchTater (Mar 16, 2016)

This is a ceiling mounted fan that operates off a two speed switch with an additional timer no thermostat. I did use an identical switch and replaced the wiring identically to the old connections. I have not tested for voltage and do not have a voltage tester. I'm afraid my electrical know how is limited. Thanks!


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## Snoonyb (Mar 16, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> This is a ceiling mounted fan that operates off a two speed switch with an additional timer no thermostat. I did use an identical switch and replaced the wiring identically to the old connections. I have not tested for voltage and do not have a voltage tester. I'm afraid my electrical know how is limited. Thanks!



Thanks for the clarification, to the benefit of others.

Because you have a timer, it may be the culprit and there is a simple way to eliminate it.

Shut the breaker off, loosen and pull both the switch and timer out of the box, one of the two wires on the timer the should be connected to a black wire and the other too the switch. Disconnect both wires for the timer and set it aside. connect the black wire previously connected to the timer, to the switch, turn the breaker back on and try the fan. 

If you wish to venture in further, we can guide you or you can call an electrician.

However, at an electricians rate of service it may be that if the motor has failed it would be prudent to simply replace the unit.


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## CouchTater (Mar 16, 2016)

I am going to get a voltage meter and give it a try and at least try to identify the problem before calling anyone in. I replaced the motor with a new one so I think that the problem must lie somewhere in the electrical system.


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## nealtw (Mar 16, 2016)

Check the motor for a reset button, may have overheated.


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## CouchTater (Mar 16, 2016)

Ok here's what I've found. Breaker has power. The timer and switch are separate. The switch has 5 poles. There is a black wire connected to the timer which is showing hot. There is also a white wire which is connected to the switch leading from the same bundle with the black hot wire. There is a red wire which leads from the timer to the switch. There is additional black, white and red wires which are connected to the switch which I assume lead to the motor. I am registering no power from the timer to the switch. Is there a way to bypass the timer? The timer switch combos I have found online are all just 4 wire.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 16, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> Ok here's what I've found. Breaker has power. The timer and switch are separate. The switch has 5 poles. There is a black wire connected to the timer which is showing hot. There is also a white wire which is connected to the switch leading from the same bundle with the black hot wire. There is a red wire which leads from the timer to the switch. There is additional black, white and red wires which are connected to the switch which I assume lead to the motor. I am registering no power from the timer to the switch. Is there a way to bypass the timer? The timer switch combos I have found online are all just 4 wire.



Yes. 
As described in msg. #5.


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## CouchTater (Mar 16, 2016)

Ok Did that connected the black wire where the red  from the timer was previously. There was a loud pop at the breaker and the breaker tripped.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 16, 2016)

The black connected to the timer and the white also connected to the timer, from the same piece of cable, is the "hot pair" and although not noted may have a bare copper grnd. conductor.

The red from the timer connected to the switch is switched power and with the timer in an on position should read a voltage value similar to the black wire connected to the other side of the timer from the hot pair.

If it does not, the timer is faulty and yes they do wear out.

The black, red and whit leaving the switch are the switch leg and will only be hot, if the timer is in the circuit and on, or when the switch is on without the timer in the circuit.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 16, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> Ok Did that connected the black wire where the red  from the timer was previously. There was a loud pop at the breaker and the breaker tripped.



Disconnect the black, white and red conductors from the switch that go to the fan and try the breaker again.

t's a process of elimination.


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## CouchTater (Mar 16, 2016)

Sounds like a project to continue tomorrow. Thanks for your help. Will update tomorrow!


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## Snoonyb (Mar 16, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> Sounds like a project to continue tomorrow. Thanks for your help. Will update tomorrow!



Was the noise in the background, your couch feeling neglected???


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## nealtw (Mar 16, 2016)

Since the breaker didn't pop the first time it does sound like something is wired wrong, don't forget that the motor might have to be reset.
http://inspectapedia.com/electric/Motor_Reset_Button.php


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## CouchTater (Mar 16, 2016)

Brand new motor installed since the power stopped working. No reset switch but appreciate the suggestion.


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## nealtw (Mar 16, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> Brand new motor installed since the power stopped working. No reset switch but appreciate the suggestion.



So the new motor may have a different wiring pattern???????


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## CouchTater (Mar 17, 2016)

There was a slightly different wiring configuration but it was wired correctly. Current status. Was able to get it running but new motor needs reversing. There is nothing in the instructions on how to reverse directions. Inside the casing there is a red wire and black wire which slip onto posts. These are separate from the wires coming from the switch. I tried reversing those but then the motor stopped running. This is the replacement motor for that fan so I know there is probably a simple way to do it but it escapes me. No one at the company I bought the motor from has a clue. Thanks again!


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## nealtw (Mar 17, 2016)

Let's google the name and model number for that motor.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 17, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> There was a slightly different wiring configuration but it was wired correctly. Current status. Was able to get it running but new motor needs reversing. There is nothing in the instructions on how to reverse directions. Inside the casing there is a red wire and black wire which slip onto posts. These are separate from the wires coming from the switch. I tried reversing those but then the motor stopped running. This is the replacement motor for that fan so I know there is probably a simple way to do it but it escapes me. No one at the company I bought the motor from has a clue. Thanks again!



Have you tried turning the fan blades over?


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## CouchTater (Mar 17, 2016)

This is a ceiling mounted belt driven unit. I'm not sure they can be turned over without ripping everything out of the ceiling. The motor is reversible just need to figure out how.


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## nealtw (Mar 17, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR8JZ_nnLr4[/ame]


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## Snoonyb (Mar 17, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> This is a ceiling mounted belt driven unit. I'm not sure they can be turned over without ripping everything out of the ceiling. The motor is reversible just need to figure out how.



I've accomplished the task on both your design as well as direct drive, which is the most common.


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## CouchTater (Mar 17, 2016)

I'll certainly look at that as a possibility if I'm unable to reverse the motor. Unfortunately when they mounted it they put it over the stair well which makes access difficult. We just bought this house a few months ago and naturally it worked fine then. Finding replacement parts are difficult as well as anyone in the area that works on them. Thanks for all your help.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 17, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> I'll certainly look at that as a possibility if I'm unable to reverse the motor. Unfortunately when they mounted it they put it over the stair well which makes access difficult. We just bought this house a few months ago and naturally it worked fine then. Finding replacement parts are difficult as well as anyone in the area that works on them. Thanks for all your help.



Often they were installed when there was scaffold aplenty.

A film of dirt and lint on the fan can shorten the motor life.

When you are able to return the appliance to full operation, could you provide a synopsis of what parts had failed and a general oversight of your process?


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## CouchTater (Mar 17, 2016)

I certainly will.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 17, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> I certainly will.



Thanks.

It helps to simplify the efforts of those who follow.


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## CouchTater (Mar 17, 2016)

Update: I was able to reverse the motor. I had originally swapped the red and black wires I referred to earlier without results but I went back pulled them off and put them back on and it worked. It is now moving counter clockwise and the dampers are opening as they should. I'm still not sure where the problem originated but I installed a new motor and belt as I'm sure they were the original. It is quite a bit noisier than before but I'm not going to complain. I will have to baby it as I'm told the timer and switch for this unit are no longer available. Hoping I don't have to crawl back into that attic again anytime soon. Thanks for everyone's help!


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## Snoonyb (Mar 17, 2016)

CouchTater said:


> Update: I was able to reverse the motor. I had originally swapped the red and black wires I referred to earlier without results but I went back pulled them off and put them back on and it worked. It is now moving counter clockwise and the dampers are opening as they should. I'm still not sure where the problem originated but I installed a new motor and belt as I'm sure they were the original. It is quite a bit noisier than before but I'm not going to complain. I will have to baby it as I'm told the timer and switch for this unit are no longer available. Hoping I don't have to crawl back into that attic again anytime soon. Thanks for everyone's help!



Any Hunter fan step switch and selective duration timer which can be housed in a dual gang box will work, as long as it will handle the current draw for the motor.

Almost any Hdwr. store will have them.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 12, 2016)

kanook SSSSSSSPPPPPPPAAAAAAMMMMMMMMEEERRR


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