# replacing exterior wood siding



## starrider (Jul 31, 2006)

Hello Guys!

Question: What is the correct way...dos or don't in replacing patching or replacing old siding (1x10 cove redwood).

I have heard from a pro that the finger jointed stuff in some cases may have issues.

Its a 1920s house with some of the siding dry rot...

I understand that you shoud preferably start and begin at a vertical stud. However if that is not possible...how do you attach/join the new siding with the old (where there is no vertical stud that they meet)?

Leaking...i assume their should be tar paper under the siding...and patches of paper should be stapled if need where the old wood is replace???

Since the house is old...is better to use galvanized screws rather than nails...as the studs/ framing wood is old?

Thanks Starrider


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## Square Eye (Jul 31, 2006)

starrider said:
			
		

> I understand that you shoud preferably start and begin at a vertical stud. However if that is not possible...how do you attach the join the new siding with the old?



While you have the siding off, cut a piece of plywood to fit just a little loose between the studs and about 2 to 3 times the height of the patch. You can hold the plywood in place with a screw that is not tightened all of the way down. A claw hammer is a great handle in this situation. Slip the claws under the screw and you wil be able to hold the plywood against the siding while you screw it in place.
Use the galvanized screws to attach the plywood to the surrounding siding, then screw the patch to the plywood. Predrilling the siding for the screws will help prevent splitting. Stainless or ceramic coated screws may be a better choice for the screws that are exposed. 
Tar paper under the patch will help.


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## starrider (Jul 31, 2006)

Thanks Square Eyes!!!...2-3 times vertically...so if the plank is 10 in. wide...does that mean the plywood should extend 2-3 planks below and above?

Thanks again

Starrider


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## Square Eye (Jul 31, 2006)

No.
Just up one and down one. (3 times)

Maybe up 1/2 and down 1/2. (2 times)

Make it kind of small, if moisture gets behind it, the smaller patch will not make as big a mess.

psst,, don't be repeating all of my secrets.


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## starrider (Aug 1, 2006)

Square eyes...well that a terrific one...and i have lots of left over plywood from sheering the lower garage studs for earth quake along with foundationg bolting.....

That's what i always look for...guys that know what they are doing...thanks!

Starrider


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## Square Eye (Aug 1, 2006)

If you've got the plywood, then it's a cheap fix. 
Everybody loves a cheap fix!
Glad I could help.

Tom


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## starrider (Aug 4, 2006)

Update...i went down and picked up about 4 sixteen foot solid redwood cove planks...asked the lumber guy to get me the choice pieces. Now we will prime it with an oil base primer...then a coat of latex (kellymore) that is matched to the color of the house...This way i figure the house won't look so bad with patches of primer painted spots...while i find the painter to the whole wall properly...

Btw...they are rated 1x10 cove redwood siding...however the one sure looks like 1/2 inch...the lumber guy say...yep that's how it is...

Another question: galvanize screws...Is two inches too long or is 1.5 inches enough for length of screw...

Also what precautions should be taken not to hit any electrical or water pipes if any?

Thanks in advance... the contractor or his guy is suppose to come out and do the job...just want to be informed enough so as no wrong shortcuts are taken...

Thanks in advance...Starrider


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## Square Eye (Aug 4, 2006)

1 1/2" screws are barely adequate. 2" are good. Before the patch goes on, before the cut is made, set the saw only as deep as it needs to be to cut through the siding.After the cut is made, look for wire and waterline, gas, etc. Mark these on the face of the surrounding siding, you're going to paint it anyway. If the walls have plywood or diagonal T&G behind the siding, check it for rot or mold. I've seen houses with and without. This would solve your end joint support problem for the patches if the underlying wood is in good shape. 

If you countersink the screwheads into the wood and fill over them with a caulking, the galvanized screws will be well protected. 

If the siding is not as thick as what you have on the house now, you will be able to see the joints from a mile away. You may be able to build up the back with folded tar paper, or you may have to shim it out.

I thought you were doing this?


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## starrider (Aug 4, 2006)

Thanks Square Eyes again! You are a good teacher...Since the original termmite guys missed this prior to buying the house...they have agreed to do the job for a minimal cost..."thought i was doing this"...well i will probably will help do it...and armed with your info ...it will be done right!

For example...the service writer...said nails would be adequate...when i asked whether screws should be used...

If this was just on the ground level...i know i could do it...from what you have taught me...however these planks are on the third story...and on a extention ladder three stories up...we'll let the other guy do it...lol!

Thanks a bunch! Starrider


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## starrider (Aug 24, 2006)

Hi Guys...update

Well...finally got about 36 feet of old plank changed out. The planks are redwood cove...ship lap 10x1. I went down to the lumber yard and picked out good solid pieces and oil primed base with kelly more exterior latex ...painted the boards before the install.

Question...although i had the guy staple tar paper where each section was replace...is it good to have the boards caulked along the horizontal  edges where they overlap the each other...this was not done...just caulked and painted where the cuts were made and join with the old planks...

Its is a three story house or wall...and so far i have painted up to second floor window ledge...lol...need a taller ladder...as i only have a 16 foot one. Oh and i got the three planks down from the top from the roof and reaching over and painting with a brush...I don't really want to buy a 32 foot ladder...thinkng of using a roller on a 10 foot pole...and rolling the paint on the remaining areas...only if the area doesn't need a sanding and prep work...  Your advice apreciated!

Thanks Starrider...


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## Square Eye (Aug 24, 2006)

Caulking the horizontal joints will not really help.
The natural expansion and contracting of the wood will break any seal you get from caulking.
Sealing the ends of the cuts is good. This will prevent the wood from wicking up moisture in the end grain. 
It sounds good to me!
Thanks for keeping us posted!
Tom


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## inspectorD (Aug 24, 2006)

You mean like stacked one on top of the other verticaly I'm guessing?

I always install a piece of tar paper like a head flashing and paint all cuts.
Almost like Z flashing is for Texture 1-11 siding. 

About the 10 foot pole.....never mind.


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## starrider (Aug 28, 2006)

Thanks Square Eyes and InspectorD...

I really appreciate your professional advice. Well the update is i got more of the three story west wall painted...of course using a taller 22 foot ladder borrow from my neighbor.

So using a spatula which has a thin flexible blade...help to get rid of the loose flaking paint. I then used a disc sander with 40 grit sand paper to attempt to feather the rough edges some... Then lightly over with quick dry primer in a spray can on the bare wood...And finally brush the Kelly more matched paint on...whew! Oh yes and caulked where it was needed.

Got up to three planks above the second story window...will need a 32 ft ladder to get the remaining 8-10 feet of the third story...

Thanks again! Square Eyes and InspectorD...

Starrider


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## starrider (Oct 5, 2006)

Update on the wall...

Well thanks for your help guys...got two guys with two 32 foot ladders and changed out about 30 feet of plank...InspectorD...i like the idea about the tar paper z sealing...

After the planks were replace and although they had been prepainted with oil base prime and kelly more matched exterior paint...i painted repainted the whole wall my self with my neighbor's 22 foot ladder...using a putty knive...i got all the loose paint off and then used a disc sander to take the edges down...sprayed prime out of a can the bare wood and then brushed on the final coat all in one step.

Since the house is three stories up...what i could'nt get with the a brush..i used a long extention pole with a roller and rolled the sections hard to reach...standing on the two neighbors roofs whose houses are built side by side to my corner house...

Now i am on another problem ...of course with this house...

Thanks again for your expert advice guys!

Starider


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## inspectorD (Oct 6, 2006)

Sounds like you are almost done?
Everyone here is glad to help out....it's our pleasure. 

As for new problems.....your on your own, only on question per year. 

 Darn...I was supposed to use my inside voice ,sorry.


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