# Replacing sheathing on a roof



## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

I may be buying a house that needs a new roof. I am fine with the cost and the work needed to do it. I am good with tools.

My problem is the layout and condition of the roof.

Picture the roof: The house is rectangular, with a loft in the middle. The 2 outer roofs slope to the long ends of the rectangle, the middle, upper part, slops to the shorter ends of the rectangle. Confused yet?
The roof is a low sloping roof, likely 4:12

The upper roof is bowing. I can clearly see where the rafters are while standing on the ground.
I know I need to replace the entire roof. I know that where the bowing is, the sheathing must be replaced.

How the heck do I do it? I do not think I can access the attic and push the sheathing out.

I have time, and, given the damage, I have the money to do it myself. 
http://www.realtor.ca/propertyDetails.aspx?PropertyId=14852046 First picture shows the layout of the roof, but not the damage.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## joecaption (Apr 29, 2015)

Going to need some better pictures then that.
Is it the ridge beam that's sagging in the middle?


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## nealtw (Apr 29, 2015)

Use a cat's paw to pull the nails from above.
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/15-claw-nail-puller/983282


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

joecaption said:


> Going to need some better pictures then that.
> Is it the ridge beam that's sagging in the middle?



Nope, just the sheathing. The beams and rafters look fine. It looks as though the last roof job was done without any care to the sheathing.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

nealtw said:


> Use a cat's paw to pull the nails from above.
> http://www.homedepot.ca/product/15-claw-nail-puller/983282




Ok, but how do I get on it and be safe? I think that the sheathing has lost all strength and am worried that I will fall through.


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## bud16415 (Apr 29, 2015)

How good of a deal is the house compared to the market around it? Is it significantly low priced to cover the cost having it professionally replaced even if you DIY. Are there other major issues to factor in to the low pricing. 

A project like this is a fairly big deal as a DIY and depending on equipment you have would make a big difference. If I was replacing that sheathing I would remove and replace as I went I think starting at the bottom and going up using the new as staging for the higher work. You may still need to set up or build some scaffolding to position yourself to do the work from the lower roofs. Doing the project this way you would have less open to the weather as you go along. 

A pro would have a much different approach as he would blow thru the job in a day or two.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> How good of a deal is the house compared to the market around it? Is it significantly low priced to cover the cost having it professionally replaced even if you DIY. Are there other major issues to factor in to the low pricing.
> 
> A project like this is a fairly big deal as a DIY and depending on equipment you have would make a big difference. If I was replacing that sheathing I would remove and replace as I went I think starting at the bottom and going up using the new as staging for the higher work. You may still need to set up or build some scaffolding to position yourself to do the work from the lower roofs. Doing the project this way you would have less open to the weather as you go along.
> 
> A pro would have a much different approach as he would blow thru the job in a day or two.




If the roof and the other work I am going to do were done, the house would easily sell for $150k. I am getting it for under $50k.

Can you put scaffolding on the lower roof? How?


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## bud16415 (Apr 29, 2015)

You would have to protect the lower roof from damage first with some padding. And something to spread out the load. Plywood maybe. You could frame up some sort of support to work off of that would sit and straddle the ridge of the lower roof. Again a pro would have the equipment but the DIYer would have to rent or improvise. Renting equipment for a short time period is a great deal but renting for a long time period can soon get you to the point of buying it. 

Sounds like you have a lot of upside potential with your house and as long as the numbers look good and you can do the work then I would go for it.


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## bud16415 (Apr 29, 2015)

Here are some ideas. 
https://riversonghousewright.wordpress.com/about/17-improvised-scaffolding-cranes/


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## Sparky617 (Apr 29, 2015)

How old is the house?  If it is less than 35 years old the roof sheathing is very likely 7/16" OSB.  If the joists are 24" OC (more common with trusses) the OSB will tend to dip between joists.  Plywood doesn't do this as much.  Structurally the OSB is fine but it does look bad.  Using an architectural shingle will do a better job of disguising the waves on the new roof.  Using plywood or thicker OSB will reduce/eliminate the wave.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> You would have to protect the lower roof from damage first with some padding. And something to spread out the load. Plywood maybe. You could frame up some sort of support to work off of that would sit and straddle the ridge of the lower roof. Again a pro would have the equipment but the DIYer would have to rent or improvise. Renting equipment for a short time period is a great deal but renting for a long time period can soon get you to the point of buying it.
> 
> Sounds like you have a lot of upside potential with your house and as long as the numbers look good and you can do the work then I would go for it.



I am replacing the entire roof, so, as long as I do not damage the sheathing, if it is still good, on the lower roof, I am not overly concerned about the shingles. I plan on doing the upper part first, then the lower parts.

I figure I should be able to do it in a week or less. Locally, weekly rentals are cheap.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> Here are some ideas.
> https://riversonghousewright.wordpress.com/about/17-improvised-scaffolding-cranes/




I like it!  About half way down I see what I will end up building.

Thank you


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

Sparky617 said:


> How old is the house?  If it is less than 35 years old the roof sheathing is very likely 7/16" OSB.  If the joists are 24" OC (more common with trusses) the OSB will tend to dip between joists.  Plywood doesn't do this as much.  Structurally the OSB is fine but it does look bad.  Using an architectural shingle will do a better job of disguising the waves on the new roof.  Using plywood or thicker OSB will reduce/eliminate the wave.



House is from 1955. Garage is from 1995, and it looks like the roofs of both are the same.


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## nealtw (Apr 29, 2015)

swimmer_spe said:


> Ok, but how do I get on it and be safe? I think that the sheathing has lost all strength and am worried that I will fall through.



The only reason you would fall thru is rot or a lot of water damage likely not enough venting, rafter too would be in bad shape, reomove some drywall and and inspect from below.. Built in the fifties, I would expect to find 3/4" shiplap.


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## Sparky617 (Apr 29, 2015)

nealtw said:


> The only reason you would fall thru is rot or a lot of water damage likely not enough venting, rafter too would be in bad shape, reomove some drywall and and inspect from below.. Built in the fifties, I would expect to find 3/4" shiplap.




Built in the 50's likely plaster and plaster board, not drywall.  Roof could be plywood or T&G as Neal mentions.  My dad built my childhood home in 1954 and there wasn't any plywood in it, roof sheathing and sub floor was T&G.


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## nealtw (Apr 29, 2015)

Sparky617 said:


> Built in the 50's likely plaster and plaster board, not drywall.  Roof could be plywood or T&G as Neal mentions.  My dad built my childhood home in 1954 and there wasn't any plywood in it, roof sheathing and sub floor was T&G.



If the sheeting is rotten, the rafters are rotten , plaster is gone anyway. 
Second floor loft may be an addition, anything may be found, but most often not enough venting. Better safe than sorry, cut some holes in the ceiling and see what you have.


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## slownsteady (Apr 29, 2015)

If the house is a fixer-upper, you will have plenty to keep you busy. You may want to save your strength - and time -  for the projects you are familiar with. Get a couple of bids from the pros, see what they have to say, and then decide if the roof is DIY.


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## slownsteady (Apr 29, 2015)

You haven't bought the house yet, so cutting holes in the ceiling isn't an option, I would think. There must be access to the attic someplace in the house, so get up there next visit. If the loft doesn't have it's own access from the living space, it may have an opening from the attic.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

slownsteady said:


> You haven't bought the house yet, so cutting holes in the ceiling isn't an option, I would think. There must be access to the attic someplace in the house, so get up there next visit. If the loft doesn't have it's own access from the living space, it may have an opening from the attic.



I did see a small access door on the other side that would allow me access to the underside of the roof. Tomorrow is when the Home inspector does his inspection. I will ask him to open it to look in.

If nothing is black or wet, why would the roof sag like that?


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## slownsteady (Apr 29, 2015)

read post 10 again. The inspector should have more specifics for you, if he's any good.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

slownsteady said:


> read post 10 again. The inspector should have more specifics for you, if he's any good.



So,it may be structurally fine?


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## nealtw (Apr 29, 2015)

swimmer_spe said:


> So,it may be structurally fine?



Did he inspect the structure from within? Did he walk on the roof?

He was limited to what he could see, you are not limited on what you can look at.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

nealtw said:


> Did he inspect the structure from within? Did he walk on the roof?
> 
> He was limited to what he could see, you are not limited on what you can look at.



The home inspector? That is tomorrow. Then, I will know what I am really in for.


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## slownsteady (Apr 29, 2015)

swimmer_spe said:


> The home inspector? That is tomorrow. Then, I will know what I am really in for.



Bingo!

I hope the inspector was hired by you instead of the seller or the realtor. Worst mistake I ever made was using the realtor's recommended inspector. Everything was just glossed over in his report. I'm still discovering the truth.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 29, 2015)

slownsteady said:


> Bingo!
> 
> I hope the inspector was hired by you instead of the seller or the realtor. Worst mistake I ever made was using the realtor's recommended inspector. Everything was just glossed over in his report. I'm still discovering the truth.



I found him myself.

I know to ask key questions and watch where he goes and what he does.

If it does not go well, he does not get paid.


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## slownsteady (Apr 30, 2015)

Stick right by his side. And don't just ask key questions, ask any question.


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## nealtw (Apr 30, 2015)

If there are big questions that can not be answered by the inspector, you can always ask for some distructive inspection as part of the offer. I didn't beleive a sell that insisted the basement was finished with studs and insulation.
They excepted my offer to inspect and I found drywall glued to concrete and knocked a bunch off the price.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 30, 2015)

I will ask lots of questions, including my "key" questions.
I will be at his side. Where he goes, I go. What he looks at, so do I.

If I cannot get the questions answered, I will find a way to get it answered, or, I walk. I would rather walk from a house I do not know about than buy it and have nightmare.


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## nealtw (Apr 30, 2015)

If the roof is the only problem, it sounds like a good deal. Good luck with the inspection.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 30, 2015)

nealtw said:


> If the roof is the only problem, it sounds like a good deal. Good luck with the inspection.



I also need to do the flooring. The parquet is starting to pop up. I will be finding out why they came up.

I figure I am spending $10k for the roof and flooring and paint.


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## nealtw (Apr 30, 2015)

moisture is the ussual problem when the floors start popping.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 30, 2015)

nealtw said:


> moisture is the ussual problem when the floors start popping.



... That will be for another thread.


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## buffalo (Apr 30, 2015)

I know around here home inspectors take a short class and thier certified. So it can be pretty hit and miss when your looking for a competent one. I talked to a couple , they knew nothing about anything I asked,  and a little bit about what I knew. So I passed On them . 

Since then I have alot going on found that PPE engineers can be hired to do inspections. Thier more expensive but they with do a through job.


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## swimmer_spe (Apr 30, 2015)

I jut got the inspection done.

I am likely not getting it.

The roof is the least of my worries. The foundation is a bigger issue.


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## slownsteady (Apr 30, 2015)

good to know. You can either use that as ammo to lower the price, or....pass if it's just too bad


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