# New Deck Question



## cibula11 (Feb 22, 2007)

With spring around the corner I am going to start a deck and fence project for my back yard.  The current deck is just a simple 12x16 deck.  I am adding a fence and tearing out the deck and adding a new one.  What is the BEST material to use?  I know there are varying opinions on the topic.  This is probably not a house we will live in forever, but at least several more years.  I am thinking cedar so that I can use the same material for both fence and deck.  Any other options or things to consider?


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## Kerrylib (Feb 22, 2007)

cibula

This question is bound to get the full range of answers.  Everyone has their own opinion of what is BEST.  Far too many things to consider to call any one choice BEST.

I will say my preference for a deck would be to use composite decking.  It runs about 2x the cost of cedar/redwood decking but no finishing and annual restaining.  For cost considerations think about if you will be there for five more years, what is the cost of restaining it probably 3x?  Of course you will do a new stain job right before you put the house up to sell.  That one you are not going to get to "enjoy" like any of the other times.

I like cedar fencing.  Just what I am used to.  See lots of vinyl fences going up on new housing and I have to say it definately looks like plastic.  Now to some I'll bet they like the look and think cedar looks run down and junky because of the way it fades and changes as it ages.  (Gotta maintain it at least a little bit)

Cedar framing for the deck is probably good.  That or treated lumber.


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## cibula11 (Feb 22, 2007)

I figured I'd hit a nerve with "BEST", but I need some feedback.  With compostite decking I have heard there is a tendancy for the boards to bow between joists.  Is this true? Any ROUGH estimates of the cost of a 12x16 deck with PT, Composite, Cedar?


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## Kerrylib (Feb 22, 2007)

stick with 16" centers for the composite decking.

Check out the big box retailers.  They often show decks in their sales adds.  usually something like a 10x12 ft deck for the price listed.  I'm sure these prices vary quite significantly regionally due to material prices.


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## asbestos (Feb 22, 2007)

well "Best"  I like Ipe (e-pay)    it will knock your socks off. Use brass/bronze screws to put it over the top. I think this is flat out the best looking stuff.


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## cibula11 (Feb 23, 2007)

Okay, so what about a standard 12x16 deck on a budget.  My home would not get back anything too extreme.  It is in a pretty modest neighborhood.  (I don't want my deck to be better looking then my house


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## asbestos (Feb 24, 2007)

Ipe  is on a budget-  just a big one. 
Composite may still be a good choice long term, just price it out and remember that it needs almost no upkeep.


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## cibula11 (Feb 24, 2007)

what about a pressure treated sub structure and composite or cedar floor and post/rails?   Does this work and look okay?


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## Square Eye (Feb 25, 2007)

For your money, Composite can cost up to 3 times, (even more) than treated wood. Composite is prone to mildew and rust staining. Also, to keep the manufacturer's warranty, you will need to use their recommended cleaner. NO pressure washing!! Pressure washing can eject fibers and make the surface even more pourous, making it even harder to clean!

On a budget? Treated, treated and treated.. Framing, floors and rails.


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## cibula11 (Feb 26, 2007)

Thanks. After thinking about, I will go with pressure treated.  I guess cedar looks nicer, but does age like any other wood in freezing rain and a foot of snow.  I figure if I put the time in, I can keep a pressure treated deck looking nice.....and nice on my checkbook.


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## Daryl in Nanoose (Feb 26, 2007)

I think you will find it looks great. By the way do not forget to use screws and predrill all the ends that way it won't crack at the ends. Just thought I would mention that.


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## cibula11 (Feb 27, 2007)

Has anyone seen or installed a horizontal deck railing using steel rods?  There's a house in the area that has rods/poles used as a railing.  They are run horizontally and give the deck a contemporary look.  I would like to look into this, but have no clue where to look or where to find them.  Also would want to check price.  Anyone have any ideas?


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## glennjanie (Feb 28, 2007)

Yes, you can use 1-1/4" pipe or square tube and get a nice looking effect. Just prepare yourself for a very high price; somewhere around 4 or 5 times as much as wood railing.
Glenn


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## Kerrylib (Feb 28, 2007)

There are lots of options you can use for this.  Probably even painted PVC pipe might work.  Don't know what strenght is required for these types of railings.

I have seen tensioned cable used as horizontal members in a railing system.  This gives a unique look as well as very minimal visual obstruction.  Of course this requires some stout corner posts to withstand the tension in the cables.


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## cibula11 (Feb 28, 2007)

Do I buy a set or system to do this, or do I just get any old rod and use that?
I guess I'm looking for some names to look for or brands.


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## cibula11 (Feb 28, 2007)

This is not the house that I was refering to, but very similar.  The only difference I see is that the house in my area uses black tube, not steel like this one.


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## Daryl in Nanoose (Feb 28, 2007)

What a great looking railing, some thoughts come to mind like checking out your local scrap yard or recycle depot for Steel, Iron, or Aluminum just to see what kind of prices you can get and sit down and do some calculating to see if it is feasible. It wouldn't be that difficult to construct.


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## asbestos (Mar 1, 2007)

around here stainless steel wire rope is a popular choice,  some come as kits, Google it.


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## Kerrylib (Mar 1, 2007)

Try getting some rigid conduit.  Have it powder coated to the color you want.

1/2" rebar, interesting industrial look.

scrap yard is a good suggestion, get creative you might find something really interesting.


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## cibula11 (Mar 1, 2007)

Any thoughts on whether ths would conflict with code?  I know I will check first before buying, but I just wasn't sure if this would even be allowed.  I don't think our building code is super picky.


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## Daryl in Nanoose (Mar 6, 2007)

So long as your spacing meets code I can not imagine why it would not pass.


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## inspectorD (Mar 6, 2007)

You guy's don't have kids I hope....these are refered to as ladders and are not up to current industry standards(I hate to use that 4 letter word).
So if you are not concerned about little folks..do what you gatta do....but it won't pass if you get an inspection. 

That picture looks like the deck is so high you could use it for base jumping...right off the railing.


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## cibula11 (Mar 6, 2007)

I understand the whole climbing thing, but I see houses in newer developments with this kind of look.  And, they too are very high off the ground.  How do they get away with this?


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## cibula11 (May 7, 2007)

I was wondering if I got some steel pipe 1 or 1 1/2 if it would rust?  I saw some that would be fairly cheap but didn't know if it would rust.  

Also on inspection.....if I have several houses in the area with these railings, could I assume it has passed inspection or is okay to do on mine?


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## glennjanie (May 7, 2007)

Hey Cibula:
The steel pipe will not rust if you prepare it and keep it painted. Forget the PVC pipe, it will sag like crazy unless it is supported every 4'. Rigid conduit is galvanized on the outside only which will call for more preperation.
Back in the day, we were required to have a 36" top rail, an 18" knee rail and a toe rail. Somewhere along the way came the requirement of no more than 4" between rails (so a child's head will not fit through it).
Finally, your comment about everyone else having it; Have you ever been picked out of a group of cars going 80 mph and you were the only one who got the radar check? No, the others don't make it legal.
Glenn


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## mudmixer (May 7, 2007)

I have seen the same post and picture on several different forums. The same thing applies to strung cables.

For a CODE inspection, depending on the inspector, it MAY pass code (minimum acceptable) if you point out other applications.

The old story - "You are never wrong if you meet the minimum code, but you may not be right".

For a SALE inspection, the main criteria is for the safety of the purchaser's family. Someting can meet code, but it can be pointed out as a safety problem.

You may get a permit for construction, but you can have a problem ($$) when it is a safety hazard that should be corrected before a sale.

Some people think the 4" maximum is crazy and stupid, but many children do die or are paralyzed every year. You certainly could not a hand rail system like that around a pool and sleep at night.


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## cibula11 (May 8, 2007)

THanks for the insight.  In my situation the deck is actually a little less than 3 ft from the ground.  In the picture shown, I could see why that would be dangerous.  I will check with my inspector before pursuing.  I also may do vertical pipe instead of horizontal.  Same effect, but safer.


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## Mephistopheles (May 19, 2007)

I've probably inspected 7000+ wood decks...and it has fully convinced me the best wood deck is concrete.

BTW these not so new sawdust and plastic extruded deck planks..they stain easy, they crumble from UV they burn they are expensive and heavy.
Guarantee, the first time you BBQ on one, it will stain all over.

If you must have wood, OIL OIL OIL every piece of wood BEFORE you fasten another piece to it.  Don't use spar varnish or anything that becomes remotely hard.


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## asbestos (May 20, 2007)

Remember to put solution on all cuts you make.


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## erikdane (Aug 16, 2007)

We just recently finished having an Ipe deck built and would highly recommend it to anyone thinking of building a new deck.  Although more expensive than some alternatives, it actually came out not too much more expensive than some of the composites.  

I've put together a little page that describes the project along with a number of pictures.  

Here's the address 

http://www.freestategolf.com/ipe.htm


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