# Determining a load bearing wall



## sonofamike

Is there a way to determine if a wall is load bearing with out calling in the experts first?

Thanks,

first timer...


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## ToolGuy

The load bearing wall(s) can be determined by the layout of your house. In most cases the load bearing wall runs through the center of the house, dividing the house into 2 halves.


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## cheesefood

If the wall extends to another floor, it's load bearing.


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## sonofamike

Cheesefood,

You mean a a wall that has a matching wall below it or above it?


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## inspectorD

We have covered this sooooo many times. You need someone with experience to determine if you have a load bearing wall. Period. 
Read through the old posts in the walls sections. You will understand why.
Sorry but this is not a place to explain to the new DIY folks what to understand without being there. I have built to many homes with strange bearing points, and seen to many just built wrong to begin with. Then to go on and disturb another load point only to have a waterbed above. 

Just have a contractor come look at the job and give you some advice, some is free. 

Just like you call a plumber for propane.


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## cheesefood

inspectorD said:


> We have covered this sooooo many times. You need someone with experience to determine if you have a load bearing wall. Period.
> Read through the old posts in the walls sections. You will understand why.
> Sorry but this is not a place to explain to the new DIY folks what to understand without being there. I have built to many homes with strange bearing points, and seen to many just built wrong to begin with. Then to go on and disturb another load point only to have a waterbed above.
> 
> Just have a contractor come look at the job and give you some advice, some is free.
> 
> Just like you call a plumber for propane.



n008 H8r.


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## ToolGuy

Look at what's above the wall. If there's a load, such as another wall, it's a load bearing wall.


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## inspectorD

A hater of what? I guess I'm just not an abreviation guy. 
Toolguy ,I wish it was that simple , and in in some homes it is. The issue is to find out.


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## Daryl in Nanoose

inspectorD said:


> A hater of what? I guess I'm just not an abreviation guy.
> Toolguy ,I wish it was that simple , and in in some homes it is. The issue is to find out.



 Exactly, this is why experience in these kind of matters are so important.
 Lets not forget that joists on the second floor usually have a join somewhere and is not necessarily in the center of the home so again experience people in these matters is a must. As mentioned calling a pro would probably cost nothing or very little to know for sure.
By the way sonofamike what are you up to if I might ask?


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## sonofamike

Daryl in Nanoose said:


> By the way sonofamike what are you up to if I might ask?



First let me say that I would never begin a project without first taking in consideration the need for a pro.

In 'spirited' discussion with some neighbors this past holiday season the comment was made that in the homes in our 'hood' all the walls are load bearing, which is why the homes are basically the same floor/room layout from basement to the top floor. And that these walls cant be removed due in large part to the ceiling/floor joist that we have. (manufactured wood trusses)

I said hogwash, but I'd look into it. I thought the trusses were an engineering plus to the house and that load disbursement is what's required for the removal of the LBW, how else can 'they' make huge open rooms in buildings, the weight is distributed out.

Anyway, I have no plans for removing any walls let alone a LBW. I just thought I'd ask.

This a great forum!


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## Daryl in Nanoose

Thats what this forum is all about "helping people" and that asking about something is the best way to go. Gladd we could help


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## jet1952

I had a car port and I closed it in. I took down the outside wall and left a small portion that was a exterior door way. I decided removed the wall (sheet rock ) from existing door way . There is a frame wood for the door way , there are two 2x4,posts back to back    from floor to ceiling then an additional 2x4 that is part of the door frame.The original wall ran north to south the rafters in my attic run east to west. The peak of my roof is directly under the under the spot wherethe pole is located. Sorry I am a woman trying to do repairs and  this is the best I know how to explain . Is this a load bearing support. Or can I remove it.


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## CallMeVilla

Hey Jet ... you are asking a smart question.  It would really help if you could post some pictures but your "word picture" is very helpful.  

If that wall framing is open for you to see, that "post" probbaly goes from the floor to the peak of the roof.  It IS a supporting member.  That does not mean it cannot be resupported in a different manner.  However, just removing it outright is NOT the thing to do without more input from professionals in this forum.

Patience.

Send pics and we can help you in the process.  OK?  In the meantime, here is a graphic that explains the terms for framing.  It will help you explain your situation better.


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## BridgeMan

Jet, there is no need to apologize for being a woman doing home repairs.  We all had to start somewhere, learning how to do things without the place falling down around us.  With some decent instructions on sites like this, a few good references, and perseverance, you'll eventually be able to do a typical job as good as, if not better than, most men.


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## Snoonyb

If you have a basement with a center support beam and this wall occurs above above that beam, either parallel or perpendicular with the floor joists, it could be load bearing.

If your house is single story, in the attic, if the ceiling joists continue over it, end over it, are spliced over it, or you have roof bracing landing on it, It's a bearing wall. If the ceiling joist are parallel with the wall and you have roof bracing landing on it, It's a bearing wall.

If there is a 2nd floor above the wall, you have two options. You can remove a section of ceiling on both sides of the wall to determine if the 2nd floor, floor joists, cross it or end over it. If so, Its load bearing. Or you can use a stud finder to determine the location and direction of the joists.

Here is a link that should be of assistance;
http://www.awc.org/pdf/WCD1-300.pdf


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## C51089

I have had 4 contractors, 2 said yes, 2 said no,  if this is a load bearing wall!! Our living room, dining roomis a vaulted ceiling!!!
The wall I want down is between the dining room and the kitchen and hallway!!! They both have pass thrus!!! It's the cornersI want taken down so it will be a open counter!!!It is a one story dwelling!!!
Can I cut the corners???


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## oldognewtrick

C51089 said:


> I have had 4 contractors, 2 said yes, 2 said no,  if this is a load bearing wall!! Our living room, dining roomis a vaulted ceiling!!!
> The wall I want down is between the dining room and the kitchen and hallway!!! They both have pass thrus!!! It's the cornersI want taken down so it will be a open counter!!!



Really have to say I have no clue what you want to do. If you have a question, it's best to start a new thread and not piggy back on an existing thread, it gets confusing. Post pics and be a little more specific about your particle situation. And, if you are modifying structure, getting the opinion of contractors, in my opinion, is probably not your best course of action. Contact a structural engineer and get their opinion about what is and what is not load bearing.

Oh yeah,  to House Repair Talk!


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## Snoonyb

Off hand I would say that it is bering, however. a single line drawing ID'ing the rooms and the slope of the vault would be helpful.


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