# Small roof leak



## maxdad118 (Feb 12, 2017)

I will try and post pictures tomorrow but I finally narrowed down a small leak on my addition roof. It has NO attic but 2x12 rafters, insulation. It's been raining a lot lately so between rains I've been going up on it and going over every possible point of entry with wet patch. It's a rolled coosition roof with flashing transitioning to old roof. I narrowed it down to about a 6x8' section of the roof at the transition and valley. Any helpful hints or tips?? I discovered it by sectioning off and spraying the roof down with a spray from the hose. The original roof is comp shingles as well as the new master addition where the valley is created. Old roof is 5 yrs old. Rolled roof about 3 yrs old. I know pictures will help, I have some on my phone I'll try to upload. Just want this fixed! Help please!!


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## maxdad118 (Feb 12, 2017)

Here's a few...


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## nealtw (Feb 12, 2017)

maxdad118 said:


> I will try and post pictures tomorrow but I finally narrowed down a small leak on my addition roof. It has NO attic but 2x12 rafters, insulation. It's been raining a lot lately so between rains I've been going up on it and going over every possible point of entry with wet patch. It's a rolled coosition roof with flashing transitioning to old roof. I narrowed it down to about a 6x8' section of the roof at the transition and valley. Any helpful hints or tips?? I discovered it by sectioning off and spraying the roof down with a spray from the hose. The original roof is comp shingles as well as the new master addition where the valley is created. Old roof is 5 yrs old. Rolled roof about 3 yrs old. I know pictures will help, I have some on my phone I'll try to upload. Just want this fixed! Help please!!



How far does the rolled roofing go up under the flashing?


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## Mastercarpenty (Feb 12, 2017)

I'm just as concerned about how far the flashing goes up under the shingles. With all the low roof pitches involved here it wouldn't take much wind to drive the water quite a ways uphill. Add in the slow run-off in the valley area and you can see where anything less than perfect will be a problem sooner or later.

And is it just me or is that crown molding upside-down? :rofl:

Phil


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## oldognewtrick (Feb 12, 2017)

There appears to be a vent at the top left of the pic, check around it to see if there's any source of water intrusion there. What is the transition flashing material?


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## Snoonyb (Feb 12, 2017)

Do you know if the architectural comp. was placed over another comp. shingle, or was the roof stripped and the architectural comp. placed over the sheating?

Have you lifted the architectural comp. enough to be able to determine if the flashing was fitted under the felt base?

Judging from the photos of the patched areas and the drywall bulge, it appears the area of the leak corresponds with the seam in the 90lb. rolled comp. Have you lifted the flashing and attempted to mastic farther up that seam?

When you lift the flashing you need to be very carful not to deform it.

Unfortunately your precipitation forecast thur. too thur. does not favor lengthy repairs.


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## joecaption (Feb 12, 2017)

Last thing I would have done is trying and "fix" it with mastic.
Just going to make it more involved to fix it right.
Did they run a starter row of shingles before installing the shingles?


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## maxdad118 (Feb 12, 2017)

nealtw said:


> How far does the rolled roofing go up under the flashing?



At least 3-4 inches, maybe more!


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## maxdad118 (Feb 12, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Do you know if the architectural comp. was placed over another comp. shingle, or was the roof stripped and the architectural comp. placed over the sheating?
> 
> Have you lifted the architectural comp. enough to be able to determine if the flashing was fitted under the felt base?
> 
> ...



I have determined that the leak is coming from the 6x8'(roughly)area near the valley and transition somewhere? The rolled comp was installed over shearing I believe, no comp shingles underneath. My father in law, retired general contractor, installed it so not 100% sure on details? Is there a better way to transition that will be a better solution. The edge of the flashing that contacts the rolled roofing has no "seal" due to it being downhill...Not sure if it can weep thru and travel uphill? I'm obviously not a roofer&#128512; The vent stack up hill on the roof was not sprayed and I still got the leak so pretty sure that's not where its coming from.


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## nealtw (Feb 12, 2017)

maxdad118 said:


> At least 3-4 inches, maybe more!



How much snow did you have sitting on the roof. Rain pooled up there?
Or melt sitting up there?


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## maxdad118 (Feb 12, 2017)

nealtw said:


> How much snow did you have sitting on the roof. Rain pooled up there?
> Or melt sitting up there?



I don't get any snow just rain. Lots of it this year. I must say the underside of the flashing was wet when I lifted it up. The trailing edge.


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## nealtw (Feb 12, 2017)

maxdad118 said:


> I don't get any snow just rain. Lots of it this year. I must say the underside of the flashing was wet when I lifted it up. The trailing edge.



Is that not snow on the other side of the house with the red roof?


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## maxdad118 (Feb 12, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Is that not snow on the other side of the house with the red roof?



Haha, it sure does look like snow? I'm not sure what the heck that is?? We don't get any snow here.


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## nealtw (Feb 12, 2017)

maxdad118 said:


> Haha, it sure does look like snow? I'm not sure what the heck that is?? We don't get any snow here.


How much water wouold have to be up there in a down pour to back up under the flashing?
So beside the roof leak you need to get the wet insulation out of the ceiling.
Before you get mold growth.

House insurance may cover the damaged caused but not the roof leak it self.


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## maxdad118 (Feb 12, 2017)

I'm not sure but I was up there for about 15 minutes spraying the section with a hose sprayer and about about 10 minutes later it started dripping below.


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## nealtw (Feb 12, 2017)

maxdad118 said:


> I'm not sure but I was up there for about 15 minutes spraying the section with a hose sprayer and about about 10 minutes later it started dripping below.



The trouble with water is it will exit anywhere it wants to may not be anywhere close to the entry point.

I would get into the ceiling about a foot away from the wall and take a foot wide strip out and pull the insulation. Then you might be able to see something from below.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 12, 2017)

maxdad118 said:


> I have determined that the leak is coming from the 6x8'(roughly)area near the valley and transition somewhere? The rolled comp was installed over shearing I believe, no comp shingles underneath. My father in law, retired general contractor, installed it so not 100% sure on details? Is there a better way to transition that will be a better solution. The edge of the flashing that contacts the rolled roofing has no "seal" due to it being downhill...Not sure if it can weep thru and travel uphill? I'm obviously not a roofer&#128512; The vent stack up hill on the roof was not sprayed and I still got the leak so pretty sure that's not where its coming from.



Thanks.
Then the new should have 2 15lb or 1 30lb base sheet depending on the reroof ordinance there, under the new comp.

What you can do is use a cheap plastic tarp, and insert it under the comp. shingles a few rows up, over the area you believe the leak is and use a few bricks or stones or a 2x4 to hold it down.

The permanent repair will take some time and you may not have that much daylight before thur. when the next rain is forecast.


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## maxdad118 (Oct 1, 2017)

Obviously this has been on hold as I had other projects going on. I'm at a point where I will be tackling this leak. I did have a 'really good referral ' but he didn't have any good info or advice and personally, I don't think he wanted the job. Whatever..so that leaves it to me. My wife has been on my back about the unfinished projects in the house so I gotta get this done before the rain comes. If I get the widest possible flashing roll, can I lift the comp shingles up and slide it under the comp shingles a good 12" and have it overlap the existing? Do/should I do the full width of the roof? And should this be nailed down under the shingles? I guess I wanting some kind of steps to go by. I have determined it's up by the transition. Thank you!


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## Snoonyb (Oct 1, 2017)

Your comp is only 12" wide and will be fastened at about 8" above the bottom and the next row will overlap the fasteners about 2".

The benefit of architectural comp is there are not "frogs" every 11-7/8".

Of para. 2 of post #17, you can move that higher on the roof to encompass the valley, as a process of eliminating a large area. You than can move it to fine tun your elimination process.


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## maxdad118 (Jan 24, 2018)

The original post is almost a year old and we still haven&#8217;t fixed the roof. I know it&#8217;s going to be taken care of in the spring(or sooner). What is this rubber(?) roofing I am seeing on commercial rooftops ? Would this be a better, long term replacement? It appears it&#8217;s glued on. I&#8217;ve seen it on YouTube videos.


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## Snoonyb (Jan 24, 2018)

If you are using it for the flat portion it will work, however you'll want it in a white to reflect heat.

The sloped portion, where the leak probably originates, were it I, would remain architecturally conforming.


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## Mastercarpenty (Jan 24, 2018)

maxdad118 said:


> What is this rubber(?) roofing I am seeing on commercial rooftops ? Would this be a better, long term replacement? It appears its glued on. Ive seen it on YouTube videos.



http://www.epdmroofs.org/what-is-epdm

EPDM is a very good roofing but requires a special substrate underneath- you can't just apply it to the wood roof sheathing. It can be DIY though I'd highly recommend using a commercial roofer for this to get a warranty. The material itself is good for 50 years or more but seams and edges must be done properly to avoid leaks. I'm not certain how it would interface with shingles or other roofing materials as I've not seen that done, The use of ballasting (gravel) in top is falling out of favor here as walking in that sometimes pierces the membrane. If you choose to go that way be sire to use rounded river stone for less chance of this.

Phil


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## oldognewtrick (Jan 24, 2018)

No mfgs of rubber roofing warranty their membrane on residential applications. All seams are mechanical, that means, glued. Look at TPO's or modified bitumen base and cap sheet similar to GAF Liberty system. TPOs seam are heat welded, glued seams will delaminate from pounding water.


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## maxdad118 (Jan 24, 2018)

I guess I&#8217;ll get quotes and input on both(if it&#8217;s an option)? I&#8217;m thinking just getting it redone with a similar roof. Thinking the rubber will be costly?


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## oldognewtrick (Jan 24, 2018)

Most of the systems IF, installed correctly, will be comparable in pricing. There are a lot of shortcuts that can be done that will adversely effect the lifecycle of the system.


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## Snoonyb (Jan 25, 2018)

maxdad118 said:


> I guess Ill get quotes and input on both(if its an option)? Im thinking just getting it redone with a similar roof. Thinking the rubber will be costly?



Ask them to address the leak as well.


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