# How do I repair lifting at corner beads?



## golem (Feb 15, 2015)

Curious as to what is the recommended way to repair drywall outside corners where, due simply to age, the joint compound has lost adhesion to the corner bead producing a hairline crack that is ever so slightly lifting. Noticing this on almost all beaded corners in this 50 year old home.

I'm getting ready to paint and assuming best practice would be to score out the non-adhering compound (most likely full width of the corner bead itself) and re-compound it?  If it were a gap and not simply a hairline crack I'd almost be tempted to let the primer/paint work it's way in and act as a binder.


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## bud16415 (Feb 16, 2015)

I run mesh tape down each side over the corner bead and I have never got those cracks. 

I don&#8217;t know what you could do short of taking it out and tape and recoat it that wouldn&#8217;t let them come back. I know anytime I have painted a crack out it always came back.


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## golem (Feb 16, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> I run mesh tape down each side over the corner bead and I have never got those cracks.
> 
> I dont know what you could do short of taking it out and tape and recoat it that wouldnt let them come back. I know anytime I have painted a crack out it always came back.


Much appreciate the reply!


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## kok328 (Feb 16, 2015)

painters caulk in the crack ?


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## Drywallinfo (Feb 16, 2015)

I am assuming this is a metal corner bead, as these were used mostly in years past (and still a great corner bead too). If so, simply chip off any loose material and skim over the top. All-purpose USG mud works fine but it shrinks in. So recoat a few times after the shrinkage. Knock off any bumps or ridges between coats and after the final coat with your taping knife. See http://www.drywallinfo.com/outsidecorners.html for tips on coating an outside corner. Then very lightly sand to finish with 200 grit (do not take off compound!). Prime and paint. 

If the corner is deformed (metal bead bent), you must straighten it out as best you can. If you are lucky, you can simply straighten it out. Otherwise, you must remove the entire bead top to bottom, turning a simple job into a much bigger job.


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## golem (Feb 17, 2015)

Drywallinfo said:


> I am assuming this is a metal corner bead, as these were used mostly in years past (and still a great corner bead too). If so, simply chip off any loose material and skim over the top. [SNIP] See http://www.drywallinfo.com/outsidecorners.html for tips on coating an outside corner. Then very lightly sand to finish with 200 grit (do not take off compound!). Prime and paint. [SNIP]


Much appreciate the reply and link!

Yes, metal beads all around. It's looking like the offending corners are needing to be chipped back 1/2"-1" before finding adhesion. One thing I'm finding really odd is a few of the "beads" are recessed. By this I mean if you were to place a straight-edge horizontally along the wall, extending it beyond the corner, some of the corner beads are in-set, think bowed walls but only near the corners. This makes it impossible to draw a knife along the bead and perform a nice gradual transition with mud into the wall. Just a small annoyance, not really a visual standout. 

Thanks for the link! Lots of great info there. Not much I don't do when it comes to the full scope of home repair/remodeling but for some strange reason drywall finishing skills escape me. I can get the job done and it usually looks fine in the end but the journey is almost always many miles longer than it need be.


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## nealtw (Feb 17, 2015)

When you are just learning it is easy to get the beads stretched a bit and get that effect. Really easy to do if the guy stud the sheets up with the factory edge at the corner.


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## golem (Feb 17, 2015)

nealtw said:


> When you are just learning it is easy to get the beads stretched a bit and get that effect. Really easy to do if the guy stud the sheets up with the factory edge at the corner.


Appreciate the hint!

I've not yet had to install a corner bead with any of my projects but it's good insight in allowing the bead to lay a strain-less 90° when being affixed. I can also envision how a sheet's rounded factory edge could induce the novice installer to inadvertently suck the corner bead in.


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## Drywallinfo (Feb 18, 2015)

If your corner is recessed, you might be able to go over the top with another bead. If after the new bead is fastened you can pass a 10" wide taping knife with one edge over the corner of the bead and the other edge over your wall and not touch any screws or metal of your corner bead, then you will be able to finish this new corner over the top. Outside corners are easy to finish - just keep skimming coats using the corner as a guide until there is no more shrinkage in.


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