# Electric Baseboard issue



## ciaran

Just replaced my analogue thermostat (double pole). When I first replaced the baseboards would stay on until you manually turn off. That went on for about 1 day. Now it will stay on for a period of time and then trip the breaker. I'm thinking it's a problem with the actual baseboard itself but can't see much wrong there. Anyone any ideas?


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## nealtw

Take the stat out and run the heater and see if it trips the breaker.


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## afjes_2016

Try what Neal says first.
But if the baseboards ran fine with the old thermostat then is would be my thought that since the only thing that is new now is the thermostat so it may be faulty or you may not have wired it correctly.

Can you post a link to the thermostat or give us a model number and make. Also what are the stats on the baseboard heaters. Voltage, watts, how many etc.

When you say they would stay on for a period of time about how long? Also, what is the rating on the breaker?


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## ciaran

Ok so removed the stat and baseboard is running fine for the  last 20 minutes. So this would lead me to believe the stat is the problem. Just an FYI I have already swapped out the stat twice thinking it may have been a fault with the first replacement but was still getting the same result with the second. The base boards are old so no spec sheet on them but one is 6 ft long and the other is 5ft so from my search i'm thinking 2500 watt and a 1500 watt. The stat I have used is 5280 watt/ 240 volt.  the model is a Dimplex TD322W. I habe the hot hooked up to the red wires and the heater to the black. Just incase I swapped the reds to different hot and likewise with the heater to black but still same result. The breaker is a 20 amp. Last thing I can think of is possible a faulty breaker?????


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## nealtw

If I understand what you did , you did it wrong 
The wiring starts at 100
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hha1OhAlsSA[/ame]


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## ciaran

Actually breaker did just trip, 27 minutes going.


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## ciaran

double checked everything again. I think I'm right. Supply went on the "Line" and heater went on the "Load".


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## nealtw

So you know 240 volts both wires are hot, I think I misunderstood what you meant.

You said they are older, sometimes it's easier to just replace them, but it could be the breaker too.
The info on watts should be inside one of the end caps and when you figure the watts to see if the breaker is the right size. 
https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/Troubleshooting-an-Electric-Baseboard-Heater


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## ciaran

All I wanted to do was replace a stat... LOL... So there's G10 wiring in place. Is there any wisdom in replacing the 20 amp breaker with 30 amp? This still wouldn't explain why I wasn't having this issue before though.... Are you simply allowed to do that? Don't wanna go messing around and breach a code or something silly like that.....


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## ciaran

OR could I use my multimeter, determine one baseboard circuit and run one board to keep the wattage down?


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## nealtw

ciaran said:


> All I wanted to do was replace a stat... LOL... So there's G10 wiring in place. Is there any wisdom in replacing the 20 amp breaker with 30 amp? This still wouldn't explain why I wasn't having this issue before though.... Are you simply allowed to do that? Don't wanna go messing around and breach a code or something silly like that.....



No, if it ran on 20 before it would run on twenty again, 
If you have a problem with the heater and not the breaker do you really want to give it more power? No

You could have a bad wire in a wall somewhere if it heats up and causes resistance, the breaker will pop.
Add a bigger breaker, that bad spot would become the fuse and when that goes you could have a fire.


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## ciaran

good call. what about determining one board circuit with a multimeter and just running one heater to keep the wattage down?


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## nealtw

Running one at a time with out a problem would say you don't have a problem with a heater.
Have you checked for loose connections in the heaters and at the breaker?


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## ciaran

not at the breaker. Funny you should say tat the breaker switch itself seems a bit loose compared to the rest. The cover on the breaker board was replace too. Maybe something got jarred and moved a bit.


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## nealtw

ciaran said:


> not at the breaker. Funny you should say tat the breaker switch itself seems a bit loose compared to the rest. The cover on the breaker board was replace too. Maybe something got jarred and moved a bit.



You can check it for loose screws but you could pull it and inspect it for burn marks too.


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## ciaran

I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks for all your help Nealtw. I will likely be back.


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## nealtw

ciaran said:


> I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks for all your help Nealtw. I will likely be back.



But if there is a small short in one heater, it will be running on a breaker that is bigger than needed so may not show up.

You may want to get a multi-meter and someone  here with more knowledge will be along to help you out.


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## bud16415

First off never up the size of a breaker or fuse because it is tripping. The wire that is connected is sized to always handle the current that the device will open at. Going from a 20a to a 30a now the wire in your walls will become the fuse. The idea of breakers and fuses is to open before anything else in the circuit. 

Sounds a lot like your breaker is tripping prematurely if it is loose and such as you described. That&#8217;s what I would be looking at first. You most likely don&#8217;t have an amp meter that clips around the wire but you could measure current and see at how many amps the breaker trips. If it is under 20 then you need to replace. If it trips at 20 then your heaters are drawing to much current .


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## ciaran

ok so I was wrong last night. the breaker did not in fact trip when the stat is removed. I checked the breaker anyways just incase but all seemed ok. Heaters keep on running no problem so it is definitely the stat that is the issue. I am certain the wiring is right. So the only thing I can think of is that I need a higher limit stat. As I said the current stat I have is a 5280 watt/240 volt. I'm beginning to think I may get an electrician to have a look at it. Anyone have any other ideas before I make the call.


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## kok328

You probably need a lower wattage stat. The one you have can pull up to 22 amps.


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## JoeD

kok328 said:


> You probably need a lower wattage stat. The one you have can pull up to 22 amps.


Your not serious, I hope. A stat is only a switch. It does not draw power.


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## WyrTwister

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...VT9dNGI8w&sig2=9MmiHJYgnUsQEnJhYe42ZQ&cad=rja

     PDF for the tstat .

     What was wrong with the old tstat ?

     For a 20 amp Circuit Breaker on 240 VAC single phase , your tstat has sufficient capacity .

     By the way , for 3 hour or more duration of the load , you are only allowed 80% current draw for a CB or fuse .  So the load , continuous , on a 20 amp CB , should be no more than 16 amps .

God bless
Wyr


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## kok328

JoeD said:


> Your not serious, I hope. A stat is only a switch. It does not draw power.



5280 watts @ 240 volts = 22 amps


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## kok328

Sorry I haven't been myself. 
After further help from members indicating that I may have finally lost it, I realize now that the rating for the thermostat is 22 amps and is not the cause of the problem. 
Amp readings may reveal a failing heating element.


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## WyrTwister

Yes ,  5280 amp rating for the tstat is what it is rated to turn off & on , successfully , for what is hoped / expected to be , years .

     You might tie 1 heater in & see if it trips the CB .  Then try the other .

God bless
Wyr


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## nealtw

WyrTwister said:


> Yes ,  5280 amp rating for the tstat is what it is rated to turn off & on , successfully , for what is hoped / expected to be , years .
> 
> You might tie 1 heater in & see if it trips the CB .  Then try the other .
> 
> God bless
> Wyr



Maybe not, if one draws to much it still may not trip the breaker.
He would have to change the breaker to one that was the right size to run one unit, to be sure to find the bad one.

I think he needs a meter to read draw at the unit just before the breaker trips.


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## nealtw

Open the heaters and check for loose connections.


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## kok328

You might start with the manufacturers reistance rating for the heating coils and check them.


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## WyrTwister

http://www.transcat.com/fluke-t5-60...ll7t8HGGll6ilKSefEfKZppp69ZXURVp5saAgEE8P8HAQ

     I routinely use a T5 .

     The OP could probably get buy with one of these ;

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=clamp+on+meter

God bless
Wyr


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