# 1950s bathroom remodel with concrete floors



## holidaygirl (Jan 7, 2011)

We're remodeling my mother's 1950s bathroom in a basement. A few years ago the hot water heater leaked and approx. 3" of water covered the basement floor popping the original tiles. The tiles were removed leaving the black tile adhesive (?) on the concrete floor. My mom decided to paint over the black. She simply used a paint color she liked from a DIY home store. She did not put on a sealer and I think she just put on a couple of coats of paint. I'm fairly confident it was not a concrete paint. It looked alright for a couple of years but now there are scratches on the floor and the black adhesive is showing through. I would like to leave the floors a painted concrete becuase they are so easy to take care of but I'm not sure if there is a say to repaint them so they'll continue to look good. Any suggestions?


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## HDwetPaint (Jan 12, 2011)

Whats up holidaygirl, since all the tiles are already lifted and the paint is beginning to peel it shouldnt be a very difficult job at all. That black tar like adhesive your mother had painted over is black mastic, before anything take caution when dealing with it because in the past they would combine the adhesive with asbestos as well as the tiles theyd lie on top. That being said to best way to remove the old paint and adhesive all in one step would be to get yourself a good thick scraper or floor scraper and some flooring stripper. The flooring adhesive stripper will need to be brushed on with a natural bristle brush and left for ~15-30min as it dissolves/breaksdown the paint and adhesive. Once the time is up scrape up all that old stuff and get the floor as clean as possible, you will then brush or roll out a concrete etcher again this can be some nasty stuff so take caution when using it. Once the floor is stripped, etched, and almost ready for paint you will want to apply a concrete primer, these are usually clear in color and thinner than most paints but they will ensure a long lasting perfectly bonded top coat for your next step. Lastly you need to pick out you color choice and sheen and its time to paint. Apply it like you would any other paint be sure to follow instructions as some require two light coats others may just want one coat, and there you go you will not have to worry about that paint chipping or peeling for a long long time. If you have any questions post em up and well do our best to assist you.


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## joecaption (Jan 12, 2011)

Please do not do what Jeff from Home Depot suggested. Etching takes a strong acid trying to do it in an enclosed basement just might kill you. Try this product instead.
http://www.soysolvents.com/Merchant...ore_Code=S&Product_Code=BMR&Category_Code=MAR
Trying to get anything to stick to that floors going to be a challange until you get all the old stuff off of there and redo it correctly.


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## holidaygirl (Jan 13, 2011)

My mom's house has much of its original '50s style and so I'm trying to recreate that style in the basement bathroom. The removal of paint  and black mastic from the floor sounds somewhat difficult. Do you have other flooring options. Or would the floor still need to be stripped of the paint and mastic for other flooring to adhere and hold?


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## holidaygirl (Jan 13, 2011)

I went out to the soy stripper site. Have you used this product before? Will the stripper that removes the mastic also remove the paint on the top or would I need to use the paint stripper first and then the mastic stripper?


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## Rusty (Jan 13, 2011)

The use of solvents is a bad idea. They can prevent the next floor covering from adhering. Most pros reccommend that you don't use them.


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## HDwetPaint (Jan 17, 2011)

Regardless of how dangerous it is it is a required step when refinishing concrete, just be sure to wear a mask and give the room some adequate ventilation. the product you had posted is just a coating stripper and in order to properly prep the concrete for your new coat of paint it is necessary to etch the concrete afterwards.


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## Rusty (Jan 17, 2011)

Solvents can soak into the concrete and prevent any other floor covering from adhering. That is why professional installers don't use them.
Sorry I don't know you but I have seen big box stores give so much bad advice that I would be careful.





"Flooring Installer for 40 years"


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## HDwetPaint (Jan 17, 2011)

Acid etchers do the complete opposite of what you suggested, they are designed to open the pores and create a surface profile that promotes greater adhesion of the basecoat.
This is up to you when you decide to do your floors, as a professional I have yet to have an issue when the proper prep work is taken into account, which in this case cleaning, etching, priming, and painting.


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## holidaygirl (Jan 18, 2011)

Thanks for all the info. I will do a little more research on the subject. It's cold here right now so it's not the best idea to open all the windows and doors and since ventilation is so very important no matter what I decide to do I will start this project in the spring. Thanks again.


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## nealtw (Jan 31, 2011)

You will be dissapointed now matter what you try, If you were happy before, just paint it again with a deck paint.


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## holidaygirl (Feb 2, 2011)

Why do you think I'll be disappointed no matter what I do? Do you have any suggestions for something I should do differently so I'm not disappointed.


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## nealtw (Feb 2, 2011)

No one can tell you where to spend you money and time and make a garrentee that the plan will work for sure. You were happy with the painted floor and it sounds like for the most part it is still a good base for the next paint job.


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