# Bad honeywell valve?



## skid2964

I have a Tempstar heating/AC unit in my home ... (with Honeywell valve model SV9500m-2682).

When I turn on the heat, the only thing that runs is the induction fan(or whatever it is called), it just stays running all the time, nothing else ever happens. BUT, the unit for no apparent reason WILL run properly every once in a while.

I checked the induction fan vaccuum diaphram and switch and determined both items are working. When the fan comes on, the switch closes.  

Do I have a bad honeywell valve or is a bad igniter a more likely culprit?

What is the procedure to troubleshoot? is there a way to manually check the igniter?

opinions?


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## glennjanie

Welcome Skid:
If the igniter is visible during the cycle it should be glowing red. If it is not visivle, a continuity test with your ohm meter should tell. They are notorious for getting a crack in them and not working, but then it would not ever work. Also, you could check for a crack or hole in the heat exchanger.
Glenn


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## wienerwater

When the fan is running, such as it does before firing up, gently give the wires a  wiggle/bump, going into the control valve. The Heil furnaces (not sure all the models, but same basic units) had this issue a few years ago, and it was the main tiny circuit board in the control valve, where the wires connected inside.I changed my vacuum switch etc, and found a position if the wires were tied up at the perfect angle, the furnace would fire everytime, yet not a reliable fix if planning to go away for a period of time. There was a recall for these valves that the manufacturer sent a memo to EVERY dealer to change them out, and were reimbursed an hours labour as well, yet many would try and get the service call and charge for the valve at retail cost, even though it cost them nothing. I got into a pissing match with the local clown here, since he got one service call and fixed nothing. I contacted the manufacturer and got the scoop from them.They ended up sending me the new valve directly and a freind/gas fitter installed it and worked fine since.


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## Blueforester

Wow!  I ran across this forum while searching for a replacement circuit board for the Honeywell SV9500M Gas Control Valve.  A new Gas control valve is about $200.  Mr. Wienerwater is dead on w/ his diagnosis.  I have been tying up my harness up over and over.  It has got to the point now that adjusting the wire harness will not work for long.

Mr. Wienerwater - do you have any additional information about the recall?  Recall #, phone number etc.?

This looks like a great forum!


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## wienerwater

Sent you a PM, Blueforester.I ended up calling a dealer about 400 miles away, since he knows it won't hurt his business locally sharing info so far away and got the contact numbers. I know the valve came from Tennessee I think it was, not 100% if it was Heil/Tempstar, or Honeywell, but will try searching who is where should give me an idea.

UPDATE!!

Try this link, it's for ICP (makers of Tempstar, Heil etc) out of Tennesee
http://www.icpusa.com/ or call 800-649-4706 Bottom left of the page has a Product Safety Recall button, which will open a page with contact numbers as well. Hope this helps anyone.


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## Blueforester

Thanks for the reply.  I have alerady tried the link you posted.  The HVAC unit installed is a Heil.  The heat exchanger was made by Intercity Products, which has since changed names.  I have tried to talk to Honeywell but the refer me to the furnace manufactor.  ICPUSA recall will not give me any info and refers me to there distributors.  The distributor and some of there contractors I have called are aware of the problems with this gas valve but have never heard of the recall for this gas valve.  It looks like I'm going to have to purchase one myself and have it installed.


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## skid2964

That is EXACTLY what is happening to mine. When it stops working I wiggle the wires till I see the igniter start to glow.

I guess I will see if Honeywell will send me a one. 



wienerwater said:


> When the fan is running, such as it does before firing up, gently give the wires a  wiggle/bump, going into the control valve. The Heil furnaces (not sure all the models, but same basic units) had this issue a few years ago, and it was the main tiny circuit board in the control valve, where the wires connected inside.I changed my vacuum switch etc, and found a position if the wires were tied up at the perfect angle, the furnace would fire everytime, yet not a reliable fix if planning to go away for a period of time. There was a recall for these valves that the manufacturer sent a memo to EVERY dealer to change them out, and were reimbursed an hours labour as well, yet many would try and get the service call and charge for the valve at retail cost, even though it cost them nothing. I got into a pissing match with the local clown here, since he got one service call and fixed nothing. I contacted the manufacturer and got the scoop from them.They ended up sending me the new valve directly and a freind/gas fitter installed it and worked fine since.


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## Check It

Have the same issue.  Does anyone have further information on this?  I checked the link above and the CPSC web site (search for Honeywell, Heil, and model number) but nothing comes up.  

I would be surprised if it was a "recall" as it doesn't seem safety related but more comfort/annoyance issue.  

So far, I have a call into the distributor and it is checking on the status of anything with the valve number, but have not heard back as of yet.


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## RocketMan's Dad

I have the same unit/problem. A friend who is a HVAC Sales/Installer person showed me that if I gently "push" the connector into the valve (on a horizontal plane; not down into the unit), the ignitor would light and the glow would occur and then the furnace would heat.  I have a continuous fan blowing right now, just no heated air.

Problem is that this has occured for about 6-8 months and the temporary remedy doesn't work at all anymore. I am very green to all of this so can anyone tell me what to expect the replacement costs of this Honeywell smart valve to be so I do not get taken advantage of? Thanks!


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## ruftags

I had the same problem as you guys starting about 18months ago. The same remedy of jiggling the wires worked for along time. Finally it quit working. One year ago I took the plastic housing off to find that the solder joints holding the socket marked control had come loose. I took it to the maint. man I work with and he re-soldered it for me. About a month ago I started having the same issue again, intermitantly. Well today it's dead and I am gonna take it back to the maint. guy I work with. If that doesn't work then I will have to replace it. I have seen a couple different forums and this seems to be a very common occurence with this unit.


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## geo fan

this can be one that will leave a pro scratching his head connected to the inducer fan moter and sometime a second hose to the heat exchanger will be some rubber hoses hooked to barb fitting disconnect from the motor and heat exchanger depending which one the other end will be connected to a 2 inch round pressure switch blow into or suck on the hose going to the switch if you hear a quite click its ok just make sure nothing is lodged in the barbs by sticking a staightened out paper clip in that should be it


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## KSabol3868

I'm Having the Same problem except the red light indicates the pressure valve is stuck open. Any ideas


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## bruz1111

Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out !  I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done.   time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha..  replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew  sv9500m-2682  was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part !  In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.


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## berg

bruz1111 said:


> Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out !  I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done.   time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha..  replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew  sv9500m-2682  was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part !  In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.



I have a 9502H-1792  smart valve which does the same thing,,,,
The 4 pin contact will only work for a time. I watched the smart valve vibrate as the fan and induction blower comes on. The valve is sort of hanging out there vibrating so I positioned as small piece of conduit down thru the burner tray up to the valve making it more rigid. I think the vibration was adding to the 4 pin losing contact after a while...So far so good...another solution might be to go ridid pipe  all the way instead of the flex...anyway just my observation on part of the solution.
*I'd like to see the pics **bruz1111* can you post or want to e-mail them to me?  
[email protected]


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## brainchild

Does the gas need to be shut off before accessing the valve housing?


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## JimD

I am having a problem with an Armstrong furnace with a Honeywell smart gas valve Sv9501M-2682 The Pilot light is working or lit but when the thermostat callsm for gas nothing happens,I've cleared the induction tube for debris looks ok,after spending $130 for aservice call,he,cleaned sensor at pilot light,the same thing happened the next day,I've found that if you turn thermostat down so it isn't calling for heat and leave off for 30min. turn themostat back up,pilot lite fires up and the burners fire up also and everything works for while,then have to repeat process.Does Honeywell have arecall on these" smart" valves.


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## Skyking

After 2.5 years and 3 different professional Hvac service companies coming to my house, I now have the answer.  I wish I would have stumbled over this website years ago.  I would have saved time and money.  The thing is everytime the "Professionals" were here it worked fine according to them. I have a Quatro Furnace/ Consolidated Ind/Honeywell gas valve SV9500M8600 This year I was finally able to narrow it down to the gas valve.  The thing is everytime the "Professionals" were here it worked fine according to them. 

I suspected a bad harness.  When I moved the 4 pin connector the furnace would light off everytime.  Gradually, all kinds of movement was necessary to get the furnace to light. Today, I was moving the igniter connector and the furnace lit off. Sounds like a gas valve.

I plan to call Honeywell as soon as I post this reply.  Hope to return with some kind of answer.


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## portillos

wow, incredible.  Just started having this problem on my heil furnace with a honeywell valve and found this site.  Right now I have a piece of plastic lodged in the side of the 4-pin connector to make the thing light.  I'm going to open up the valve and re-solder the connections.


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## w geeslin

My Tempstar furnace is about 14 years old. We've experienced problems with the solder connections on the control unit for the Honeywell SV9500 for years now. I fastened a tie wrap around the connector and the on/off knob and that worked for a long time. Now it has stopped working. Infuriating to know that the problem is only some fractured solder joints inside the plastic housing on the PCB. My question is this. How do you get the plastic housing off? I see two screws on top of the value that appear hold the entire plastic housing on..but they have secure type screws that would require some special tool to remove them. Any help on this issue available?


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## lidel651

Those are likely torx TR screws or Torx Tamper Resistant. There are special Torx bits and screwdrivers that will remove them. As to exactly how or if that will remove the plastic housing, I don't know.


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## w geeslin

Well, the job is done and it cost me $1.50 for a T15 Torx Tamper Proof Bit to remove the two screws holding the platic cowling on. After we got the housing off, under illuminated magnifcation on the work bench I found a burned and fractured joint on the PCB where the relay coil gets power. I cleaned the joint with alcohol and then reflowed the solder...checked for any other bad joints..found none. Carefully reassembled the PCB to the housing and back onto the valve using the T15 Torx bit....restored power, turned up the thermostat and we were back in business. Wish I done this years ago...would have saved a lot of anxiety and cold nights as well.


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## dmwli

George, what was the build date on the gas valve?  (Four 1/4" high numbers ink-stamped on the bottom edge of the main casting. First two are the year and the last two are week in that year.)


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## portillos

Well, I was able to bring a standard torx bit into work (where we have a model shop) and I had a guy burn a hole in the middle of the bit so that it would fit the screw on the valve housing.  I didn't even bother checking hardware stores for the part; it looked too specialized.

Anyway I pulled the circuit board out and found 4 bad solder joints!  3 on the ignitor connector (probably at least partly from my habit of sticking something in there to get it to fire up) and one on a relay on the opposite end of the pcb.  The broken connector joints had pulled the copper rings away from the board, so I had to cut & strip the wires, and hard-wire to an adjacent location on the pcb.

Put everything back together and it's been working for about 3 weeks now.  btw, when the furnace fires up, now there is no loud "click."  I think it must have been arcing inside from those intermittent connections.  Glad I was able to save some serious money!


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## MikeInPDX

I've evidently got the same problem. I've got the cover off the valve, but I'm not sure how the PCB can be removed easily. It looks like it's attached to the solenoids below. How did you do it?

As an FYI, I just used some solvent to clean the contacts and the board (it was extremely dirty) and it seems to be working fine. At least for now. I noticed that the board is supposed to be coated, but the coating is really inconsistent. I'd still like to pull the board out and check the solder connections, but I'm not ready to cause a major gas leak trying to figure it out.


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## lgdatsme2

We just purchased this unit. It will not ignite. First problem is that it was rigged for LP gas. I am not certain what that entails. It would make sense to me if the gas volume were higher with the Propane, and the spark lower in density. If I have that backwards please enlighten me. Secondly if the conversion WAS made would I need to completely change out the entire structure from feeds to igniter. Need help would appreciate a post.


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## jeffjeep

Great thread guys and thanks to you all , my Keeprite furnace 12 years old would not stat up  yesterday after coming home from work . Found these posts , pulled out board and dropped a little solder on the bad area and now shes back pumping out the BTU's . Wife and kids are warm again


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## Leddy

The PCB slides out of the housing once the cover is removed and the connections are unplugged.  I just removed mine a few minutes ago.  This is an awesome site.


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## shailupreti

Thanks man, this was amazing, in fact I'm riding in the same cab as everyone else. Would love to see the smart valve pics you have talked about. I would want to go for repairing it myself,,,,,please send them at [email protected]


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## rogden

I had to puzzle a bit to figure out how to remove the circuit board, too.  On my SV9500 valve, the board itself does not slide out--the board and the remainder of the attached housing all slide out together.  As I am facing the valve with the igniter knob towards me, I push the board and housing away from me toward the furnace.  It should easily slide out of the metal supporting frame.

I couldn't find the tamper resistant T-15 torx screwdriver at Lowes or Home Depot or my local Ace Hardware, but AutoZone had a set of tamper resistant torx bits for $10.

When I pulled out my circuit board, it was obvious that the four solder connections for the igniter harness were cracked.  What I didn't see right away was another failed solder at another spot on the board.  Once I re-soldered that fifth one, the furnace lit up like a charm.  Makes sense to check all the solder points and touch them up as necessary.

After 3 days of 55 degrees in the home, this warm air sure feels great!  Thanks for the help!


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## rcashon

Great site and information: 
I also have fought with my valve for over 2 years. I have soldered mine many times. Has anyone found a replacement board? Or has anyone just changed the valve out? If so , did you use the same type or a different valve. I would love to have a schematic on the valve.


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## stibbits

I have had the same problem on my Comfortmaker gas furnace.  After re-soldering the bad connection on the board relay pin, the furnace works good.  However, I am sure the problem will re-emerge at some point, but thanks to all who made this repair a possibility.  I found a replacement valve on this website: https://keithspecialty.com/k/67-394.htm for $155.  If anyone tries it please post your narrative here so I can see if I should replace my valve.


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## jimbo_97

I too am having the same problem with my pilot not lighting. I tested the electrical wiring. I am getting the 24V into the gas valve and I am getting roughly 20V going out to my ignitor but the ignitor still will not fire up. Is it likely that I still have a problem with the circuit board even though I am getting voltage to the terminals?


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## lw39042

I too have had problems with my SV9500M for about 3 years. The ignitor just would not heat. I first replaced the ignitor, that worked for a while. I then tied the wires, that worked for a while. I then solder connections on the PCB and that worked for a while. Well this year the wire ties just were not getting the job done. I could move the wires and it would start working but any movement and it quit again. I took the valve apart again and found that the pads for the solenoids were oxidized. You can only see them after removing the PCB assembly. I used a piece of scotch brite and I used a pair of forceps and scrubbed these pads. I also removed the pcb from the plastic housing and also cleaned the 4 fingers that are the contacts for the pads. Reassembled and it works EVERY time. When tying the wires, I was just moving the entire PCB assembly so that the finger contacts would make connection to the pads for the solenoids.


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## rcashon

jimbo and Iw, I figure you will both see your problems again.  I have resoldered my board quite a bit and I finally got it working again. The solder connections and pads are very  thin and pull off the main board with hairline cracks. I had to inspect all of them under magnifying glass  to finally find the one that pulled up. It starts with the 4 pin connector in the middle of the board. I have wound up hard wire soldering from point to point to resolve some connections.  jimbo on yours where you are getting the voltages I would  still say you have a trace not making contact. That board was cheaply made. I tried contacting honeywell and they did respond, but always pushed me away to third party vendors to replace the valve. They know its bad but wont take responsibility for it. Oh well...


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## doninfosys

bruz1111 said:


> Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out !  I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done.   time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha..  replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew  sv9500m-2682  was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part !  In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.



If anyone has the pictures of this Gas Valve, as referenced above, please 
send them to [email protected]


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## helpme

I had the same problem with my 9500M 2682 - igniter wouldnt work on a regular basis with out wiggling the wires. We took it apart and found a cracked solder joint at the relay connection on board. Soldered it up and works fine. Also cleaned contacts for the solinoid coils - they were a little loose so we bent them to make a tighter connection. So far so good!


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## ecasares

I replaced the ignitor but it still did not lit nor did gas come out. I removed the cover to the smart valve and looked at the circuit board and it had an obvious tiny discolored part and I assumed it was fried. I replaced the smart valve and everything lit up. Furnace turns on , everything works now except the inducer motor would not turn off. I measured the voltage coming from the control module located on the fan to the smart valve and it measured 28 Volts. I assume it should only read 24 volts on a 24 volt system. I guess i will replace the control module and go from there. Tempstar models are a pain. What a waste of money and time. Next time , i will go with Goodman or Payne.


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## SteelBlueNJ

*First remove the wires where they plug into the unit , then uses a T-10 (tamper free Torx allen key) to remove the casing, then disconnect the ground coming from the board, it's on the left next to the gas pressure adjustment screw. I had to use my needle nose to pull the ground off.
Next you should be able to push or slide the board toward the furnace to get it free.*





B]remove the circuit board from the casing[/B]
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



*locate the shorts on the BACK of the board. you may need a magnifying piece to see the hair line fractures on the controller plug joints. The snap plug connection should have been made like the igniter plug connection, with screws fastening it to the board. This supports the solder joints from damage when servicing your furnace.
white arrow shows the snap plug solder joints that I had to re-solder. The yellow arrow is a solder joint I also had to touch up. I don't know what is was but it looked over heated.* 




sorry for the shabby pictures, was in a hurry to get my heat back on and used my phone for pictures.* To solder this up i used the pen style soldering tool. It was 11 bucks at Auto Zone where I also found the tamper proof Torx bit set also about 10 bucks.  Not bad considering the service schmucks wanted 800 to replace the entire valve! I googled the valve after they left loose screws, no new filter and bad feeling about their shotty service call. It was about $300 but located it for half that if I needed to replace the whole thing. Still where he came up with an $800 job is beond me. I had already paid a $75 service call charge and another $70 for them to vacume the rail out and tinker a bit. He ended up bending the piolet suply line and left loose screws and clip on the thermo cuppler. Riduclous if you ask me... for anyone who wants to get screwed, heres their link - A.A. Richards Heating & Cooling, LLC - 1-866-915-HEAT *




*Anyhow, clean up your board with circuit board cleaner and a q-tip if you like. I also cleaned the contacts on the coil and on the board where they meet. just don't use anything that's not going to dry up of cause a fire. common sense here*


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## Tikoman

Thanks for all the great info, thats the same problem I had. There was six cracked conections. Took it to work and fixed it. They sure are hard to see.


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## SteelBlueNJ

rcashon said:


> jimbo and Iw, I figure you will both see your problems again.  I have resoldered my board quite a bit and I finally got it working again. The solder connections and pads are very  thin and pull off the main board with hairline cracks. I had to inspect all of them under magnifying glass  to finally find the one that pulled up. It starts with the 4 pin connector in the middle of the board. I have wound up hard wire soldering from point to point to resolve some connections.  jimbo on yours where you are getting the voltages I would  still say you have a trace not making contact. That board was cheaply made. I tried contacting honeywell and they did respond, but always pushed me away to third party vendors to replace the valve. They know its bad but wont take responsibility for it. Oh well...



Thank you:trophy:


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## 1retskroy

Great thread! Had intermittent problems with the unit not lighting off. When I wiggled the four wire connector at the gas valve, it would light. Found this site and re-soldered the connection for the relay on the circuit board. Unit works fine! You need a T-15 Tamper Proof TORX bit ($5.99 @ Harbor Freight Tools) to take the cover off (not a T-10 listed above). This was on a Honeywell SV9500M 2682 gas valve.


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## Jenn

Hello all, I am facing the same issue, my tech checked it and say that the ignitor is working fine and the computer board is good too, he see the pilot turning on but the gas valve is not opening. After reading all these posts I asked him if there could be a loose connection and if he checked the harness but he is saying that I need to replace the valve and there is no loose connection. He used the voltage meter and he says he is getting 24 volt out of the gas valve... My question is if those soldered connections are bad or my wiring harness is also loose as most of the posters here had found out, would he still get the 24 volt out of the gas valve?  or should I try something like you all have tried before spending $200 on a new gas valve and the labor to put it in?  Thanks


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## Jenn

is there is a sensor attached to the ignitor or the gas valve? Now my tech is saying that the sensor might be dirty and that is why it sometimes does not work. He ran into the similar problem somewhere else and cleaned the sensor that had some gas residue and managed to get it fixed? I have asked him to come over but his schedule is pretty much full but he says he will try t be here today.
In the meantime, is it something I could look into? where is this sensor located? any thoughts? It is also very likely that he probably had the same issue with loose connections and while taking things apart, he might have fixed that problem unknowingly... perhaps.


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## Wuzzat?

Jenn said:


> . . .and there is no loose connection.


He can check connection integrity while current is flowing.
For relay contacts while rated current if flowing, less than 30 mV voltage drop due to contact impedance is good and more than 100 mV is bad.  
For a Wirenut carrying 10A, 50 mV is way too much and means it was improperly installed.  A good install shows much less drop.

I'd think these numbers would be smaller for a connection that uses tempered spring steel like in your HVAC stuff.  The makers of these fasteners may give you pass/fail factory data by their QC people.


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## Jenn

Thanks Wuzzat.. The tech came in and he tried to clean the sensor next to the ignitor, check few more sensors, confirmed that the gas is actually coming through the gas valve for the small ignitor but there is not gas supply to the bigger pipe going towards the flame. 
He does not read these forums so it was hard for me to convince him to open the gas valve beige cover that is attached using couple of either Allen Key or star screws. 
His final conclusion is just change the valve, Should I at least try to take the plastic beige piece and see if the problem is same as other fellow posters have described earlier? If I have some photos that would have been a big help. Cheers!


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## Wuzzat?

Jenn said:


> His final conclusion is just change the valve


Not many people in the US say "cheers".  

Ask him how sure he is.  
If he is 90% sure it's the valve and the valve costs $X then he should refund you 0.9 of $X if he is wrong!  

Ha!  Have him put his money where his mouth is.


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## ghartwell

Boonstra's one hour service just tried to rape me for $910 to replace this valve in my heil furnace.  When I phoned Amre supply they quoted me $250 for the valve.  I dont mind paying for service or some markup on parts but that is outrageous!  Graham Hartwell,  Stoney Ontario


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## Wuzzat?

Seems high.

"The average cost to replace a gas valve in a forces [sic] air furnace can range from $425 to $675."
from
http://www.fastacservice.com/blog/b...air-Cost-Find-The-Average-Heating-Repair-Cost

Mine costs $400 years ago but I did all the troubleshooting and left a 20 minute message with his answering machine.  
When he showed up at the front door he had the replacement valve in his hand.


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## montana1274

IF you want to repair the valve. (you assume all liability) remove the two small security tor screws holding the brown plastic cover on. we are only removing the half with the knob on/off knob sticking up through it. gently move the cover around a little and it should just lift off. now look close at the solder connections on the circut board. specifically at the area where the 4 wire main plug is connected. look for a crack around 1 pin ( or even a burn mark) Resolder this connetion using a radio shack silver bearing solder or equivalent, to give it a little more strength. Put the cover & screws back on & youre finished.


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## longjohn

The advice given here is right on.  I had the same problem and was able to fix it in five minutes.  As soon as I took off the cover (good tip about buying the correct torx bits at Harbor Freight), I saw a bad solder connection.  Resoldered and put it back together, reinstalled and it worked as it should.  Since the valve kind of hung out there unsupported, I put a wood 2x2 under it and also padded the place where the gas line came in.  I hope that will keep it from vibrating and breaking more solder joints.


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## mcooke

I was relieved to see that I wasn't the only one...today, after holding the wire harness  horizonally (the one that goes to "ignitor" on the module) it stopped working altogether. After jiggling and pushing even harder, I was able to get it to work. But only once. I am looking for any advice on this, but I think the only thing to do is replace the SV9500M unit  Thank you to everyone who shared I'm glad I'm not the only person rigging up wires in my furnace!


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## mcooke

I was relieved to see that I wasn't the only one having this ignition issue...so firstly a big thank you to everyone on here that's posted their stories. Today, after holding the wire harness horizonally for months (the one that goes to "ignitor" on the module) it stopped working altogether. After jiggling and pushing even harder, I was able to get it to work one time so we didn't freeze. Next step is to take it apart and look for the bad connections, fortunately I'm a electro-mechanical engineer so I know what to look for. I will post instructions if I get this to work like others did! Thank you again for all of the advise...to be continued. I'm glad I'm not the only person McGyvering up my furnace!!


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## 1retskroy

As in the previous posts, I had the same symptoms you did. I removed the cover (T-15 security screws) and saw two soldered joints that had seperated from the board. Used a soldering iron to re-melt the solder to form a solid connection. It has been two and a half years and still working fine.

There is a video on youtube on this:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUBvnhhZK2Q[/ame]


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