# Ceiling Mounted Punching Bag



## ashtonallen (Jan 1, 2017)

My 6 year old boy begged for a  punching bag for Christmas.  The bag and the chain weight about 25  pounds.  I have a finished room over my garage where I hung it up.  I  can't get access to see the exact construction behind the ceiling  drywall, but I can tell their are studs running at 24 inches on center.   I ran a 28 inch 2X6 across 2 of the beams and used 2, 1/4 inch lags at  each junction (see picture).

I had my wife hold the 2X6 while I  drilled the lags in the pilot holes.  She must not have held it tight  enough because the 2X6 is not completely flush with the ceiling.  There  is a 1/2 inch gap between ceiling and 2x6 on one side (see picture).  I  couldn't fasten it any tighter.  My son punched on the bag for a couple  of hours last night and everything felt solid.  This morning, I noticed  there were several barely noticeable pop outs along the beam.

I'm  thinking I might need to redo the whole set up and maybe run a 2X6  across additional beams, but I don't want to go to the trouble if what I  have is solid enough.  Will the pop outs keep working their way out or  maybe is that just the paint loosening?  Any suggestions would be  greatly appreciated!


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## beachguy005 (Jan 1, 2017)

I would try screwing it in tighter to see if it helps.
As an aside.....I'd be curious as to what underlying issues would cause a 6 year old's desire for a punching bag.  Hopefully it's just a phase not a need for self protection.
I'll also give you a nice site for free boxing info that you can review for, or with, your son.
http://www.boxing4free.com/


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## ashtonallen (Jan 1, 2017)

Yea, I agree that's a weird think to ask from Santa for a 6 year old.  When I asked, he said it's to get his energy out.  He hits that bag with all he's got man.  Honestly, it worries me a little, but it's kind of fun to watch.  Anyway, thank you for the site referral.


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## Gary (Jan 1, 2017)

Did you pre drill the 2x6 holes a little bigger than the screws? If not the screw is probably hanging up on the 2x6. Or you could back them out and run them in again. Pre-drilling the 2x6 a little larger would be better though.


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## ashtonallen (Jan 1, 2017)

Yes, I did pre-drill the holes in the 2X6, but I thought I should drill the pilot holes just a little smaller than the threads so the threads would bite into the 2X6 as well as the beam, basically pulling them together.  

1.  So, instead should the lag be able to freely pass through the 2X6, and only bit into the ceiling stud?

If so,

2.  If I remove the 2X6, and re-drill the 2X6, can i just re-use the same ceiling stud hole, using the same size bolt?


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## Gary (Jan 1, 2017)

yes, just slightly bigger. Then the lag will grab the joist & draw the 2x6 up tight to the ceiling. A large washer might be a good idea too, if your son gets good at slamming the bag.


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## nealtw (Jan 1, 2017)

In the future look for screws that have a smooth section before the threads start, that distance is called the reach. With out the proper reach or bigger hole the threads have to strip in the 2x6 in order to pull up tight and most times it will be the wrong wood that strips out.


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## Mastercarpenty (Jan 2, 2017)

2 1/4" lags are too short- they're going through 1 1/2 lumber and 1/2 Sheetrock before they bite so almost nothing is holding here. 5"-6" small diameter lags would be my choice. My preference would be to find the exact center of the joists by finding both sides with a finish nail, pilot drilling with a bit about 2/3 to 3/4 the minor diameter of the lag, pilot drilling the mounting board to the major diameter matching the first holes spacing, then using doubled fender washers with the lags to help spread the load on the mounting board. Pulls tight and won't split.

You're probably going to wind up with a few 'nail pops' in the sheetrock over time but those are an easy fix. 

Phil


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## bud16415 (Jan 2, 2017)

As advised open up the holes one at a time (just in the 2X6) replace the bolt and add a large washer, then draw all the bolts up tight. 

The pop outs will keep happening as you are jarring the whole ceiling. As he gets bigger and hits harder expect more pop outs and cracks. Not much you can do about that except build a freestanding floor mounted support for the bag. 

Great start at a home gym. Keep him active I personally would rather see a kid punching a bag than sitting on a play station. Add some more equipment like a bike or rower and join him.


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## ashtonallen (Jan 2, 2017)

Thank you very much for the help!  If I use 4 studs and follow the suggestions carefully, do you think I will I be pretty safe in terms of no damage to my roof? I really don't want to use a stand if I can safely use the ceiling, so he has a lot of room to move around the bag. Regarding PlayStation, I totally agree.  It's sure tempting to let the video games do the parenting but probably isn't too helpful to the kid.


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## Gary (Jan 2, 2017)

If the rafters were built properly the punching bag shouldn't be a problem at all.


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## nealtw (Jan 2, 2017)

ashtonallen said:


> Thank you very much for the help!  If I use 4 studs and follow the suggestions carefully, do you think I will I be pretty safe in terms of no damage to my roof? I really don't want to use a stand if I can safely use the ceiling, so he has a lot of room to move around the bag. Regarding PlayStation, I totally agree.  It's sure tempting to let the video games do the parenting but probably isn't too helpful to the kid.



The structure should be able to handle anything he can hand out but it would have been nice to be able to get above and lay a 2x6 across the framing and bolt thru.
The only problem you might have is if you have not got your lags in the center of the ceiling joist.
If there was a worry about to much wait you could just build a temp wall a few feet away from the bag to support the ceiling.


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## ashtonallen (Jan 2, 2017)

I looked up the terms major and minor diameter of the screw.  Man, I got confused.


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## nealtw (Jan 2, 2017)

ashtonallen said:


> I looked up the terms major and minor diameter of the screw.  Man, I got confused.



That will screw with your head.

If you have a 1/4 lag, pre drill your 2x6, 1/4" or slightly bigger and if you want to pre drill the other wood to receive the screw, try to measure the thickness of the part between the treads.


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## ashtonallen (Jan 2, 2017)

"screw with your head"  that was a good one!


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## nealtw (Jan 2, 2017)

ashtonallen said:


> "screw with your head"  that was a good one!



Try to figure out bolts, your nuts are never the right size.:thbup:


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## Mastercarpenty (Jan 3, 2017)

If major and minor get confusing just wait till I get to pitches and crest profiles (which have nothing to do with baseball or toothpaste). With a bit of background as a mechanic/machinist I can drive most people screwy talking shop about threads like this.

Phil


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## slownsteady (Jan 9, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Try to figure out bolts, your nuts are never the right size.:thbup:


My nuts work just fine, thank you very much.


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## slownsteady (Jan 9, 2017)

The rule of thumb that I was taught for pre-drilling - and seems to work just fine - is hold the drill bit directly in front of the screw/bolt. you should be able to see the threads, but not the solid core of the screw.


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## slownsteady (Jan 9, 2017)

When I was a kid I did something similar. I had an old duffle bag that I filled with old carpet and I hung it from a pipe in my basement ceiling. That plan only lasted a day, as my parents could feel the floor move as I pounded the bag. I'm not surprised you see nail pops. You may want to find a way to isolate the bag somehow.


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