# Table Saw Blade Question



## ascendantofrain (Aug 22, 2016)

I'm relatively new to woodworking and carpentry so this may be an asinine question but whenever I try to make any kind of miter cut (anything that is not 90 deg) my cuts tend to have a slight curve to them.

I bought the blades (Dewalt brand) brand new so I would assume they'd be good, right?

It may be difficult to see in this attached image but I'm hoping that this issue is more of user (me) issue than a hardware (table saw and blade) issue.

The first post-it note shows a slight curve on the mitered cut and the second post-it note shows what I see when I place a square on the table top up against the blade at 90 deg with the square NOT resting on a tooth on the blade.

http://imgur.com/a/Kruq4


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## nealtw (Aug 22, 2016)

Does the board sit flat on the table, I slight cup in the board may help it to roll a little as you push it thru.


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## ascendantofrain (Aug 22, 2016)

I usually use a crosscut sled for the crosscut miters.  It is kind of old so that could be the issue.


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## nealtw (Aug 22, 2016)

That is the only thing I can think of, even a blade should not do that


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## elbo (Aug 22, 2016)

the only reason for the curve is that the wood is moving when you make the cut.  You might be trying to cut it too fast and forcing the cut.You can stop the wood movement by gluing sandpaper to the miter sled and by slowing your cut. I would try slowing the cut first though


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## nealtw (Aug 23, 2016)

ascendantofrain said:


> I usually use a crosscut sled for the crosscut miters.  It is kind of old so that could be the issue.



Your old jig has something that rides in the track, is it too small for the track allowing it to move slightly when cutting.


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## Mastercarpenty (Aug 25, 2016)

I'm not a fan of DeWalt blades. The 'orange box' sells Freud Diablo combination blades which are much better. "Real" woodworkers often spend $100+ on a blade; I just buy a new Diablo as needed because I do rough work on my saw too.

 If you're ripping, the fence must parallel the blade perfectly. If it's wider at the far end you get a curved cut. If it's wider at the near end the blade binds and overheats giving you a wavy cut, usually accompanied with excessive force needed to feed the wood and even smoke from charred wood. A misaligned riving knife can do weird things to your cuts. Sleds and miter gauges must fit the slot with zero play, any wobble means they're worn out. Unplug the saw and feel the blade for lateral movement, more than a tiny amount is a no-go. Roll the blade and look for wobble, might be in the blade or the shaft. 

A table saw is a precision tool which is why can't get a good one cheap.

Among all this your answer lies somewhere. A table saw is only fit for fine work when all is right with all of it, not just some of it.

Phil


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