# Pine walls?



## bryce (Sep 7, 2012)

What do you think about using rough pine lumber from the mill, sanding it down and using as walling? I guess getting the same thickness is a problem?
i'm thinking something like this, i might do some of the walls and even the kitchen and dinning room with this stuff? good idea?





I found some other more rough wide pine, knotted boards, would that be a better effect for the walls at least?


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## kok328 (Sep 7, 2012)

Sounds like a idea but, beware the throwback look of paneling.


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## timnuroomremodeling (Sep 10, 2012)

Here's an example of a job I did with a similar application.  Used T&G pine car siding and applied venetian plaster/glazing to wall surfaces.


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## bryce (Sep 10, 2012)

That looks nice, is there gypsum board underneath? Could provide a bit more step by step on how you would do this room?




Also i want to replace the window, i guess that should be done first?


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## timnuroomremodeling (Sep 10, 2012)

I did install drywall prior to the car-siding application. I had the advantage of knowing I was going to fabricate all new door jambs and replace casing and base moldings. Keep in mind that car-siding is 3/4" thick so consider how you will case the door frames, ( I used 1x pine ripped to 2.5"w). I guess the easiest answer as far as timing of car-siding is to treat it as a trim-out task, which would be done at end of overall job. Just like base board installation, door casing first then car-siding.  Window replacement early in the process. 
Just a thought - since you already have a raised panel treatment at the base of stair, why not continue that technique throughout the rest of the room?


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## bryce (Sep 10, 2012)

Actually the previous owner did that. I guess that is just wood panels attach instead of T&G.
What you are saying is to put the same panel half way up (where the stair starts) around the whole room and do the texture wall as well?
I'm also thinking about ceiling tiles.  Maybe the texture should continue on the ceiling then and forget the ceiling tiles?
Would you replace the door?


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## timnuroomremodeling (Sep 10, 2012)

Yes, I'm suggesting continuing the same raised panel up to chair rail height as a wainscoting application. 
I doubt the ceiling tiles are covering drywall, (but maybe), usually those type of acoustical tiles are stapled to furring strips.  The raised panel technique could be done over a new or existing drywall installation, (get rid of the paneling, (looks dated)).  Basically 1/4" oak or birch veneer with detail molding attached to create the "raised panel" effect. 4x8 sheets of veneer plywood would allow for 12 linear feet of material per sheet if you went 32" height on the wainscoting, (maximizes material with little or no waste).
The door doesn't look unattractive and does go with a raised panel decorating scheme - your budget, your decision.


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## bryce (Sep 10, 2012)

Thanks Tim. So do you think continue with texture on the ceiling maybe the reddish brown color you use? (i would put gypsum board on there and maybe insulation between the joists.)

I was thinking something like this for ceiling tiles, yah or nah?


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## timnuroomremodeling (Sep 10, 2012)

I'm not sure I would suggest glazing a ceiling, it's kind of difficult to manage a large unbroken area without leaving "burn" marks - glazing dries really fast so it's difficult to be consistent.  Maybe I'm not understanding - are you talking about the wall surface above the wainscoting height or the actual ceiling? The tin tiles would look good as long as you never had to access the ceiling for a future plumbing issue.  Stomped (crow's foot) texture is the most common ceiling texture is SW Missouri - left unpainted it easy to match if it ever needs repair. It all depends on your skill level, budget and design taste.


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## bryce (Sep 11, 2012)

Hi Perry, i was going to take all the old ceiling tiles down, then insulate and cover with some thin board, then glue the ceiling tiles on.

I'm thinking now apply to texture to the existing white walls and replace the old panelling with T&G all the way up. What color would you use?

After i take the old panel off i assume it will need insulation and vapour barrier.
I think i can put the T&G right over it, i guess horizontal or would vertical look better? But vertical would require more 2x4 to back them.
Or should i put the gypsum board over the walls and use a thin veneer like you used? I imagine that is easiest.


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## bryce (Sep 15, 2012)

Do think it is really necessary to take off the old wood panelling? I see some insulation sticking out in places so i am thinking there is insulation there. It seems like a lot of work, to remove the thin board. Why don't i just put the wood or veneer over that paneling?


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