# Shower stall repair and standards



## udelslayer (Aug 17, 2016)

How do you know if a shower stall needs caulking?  
I can't find documentation and dont know where the model number is marked.  All I can see is "Owens/Corning Fiberglas"

It looks like a pretty common unit with 3 walls and the pan.  I think its over 20 years old, and I have been living in the house for about a year.  Both the horizontal and vertical seams were caulked some time ago and are a little cracked and dry.  There is an identical shower in another bathroom, but there is no caulk in these seams at all.  In the calulked shower, I noticed that there is an increased amount of mildew along the horizontal seam and I've cleaned it a few times, but it returns fast.  I then noticed one day that there was (dirty) water seeping along this seam close to the corners.  Thinking there was a leak, I looked behind the wall at the plumbing and didnt see anything wet, but there has obviously been some amount of moisture there.

I am not experienced with shower panel installation, but I know the principles on how a tub is installed and have been doing some research.  In that I found that multi-panel showers have weep holes or edges that allow backside condensation to collect and run into the pan.  I went to a store and looked at how the bodies of showers like this are built and see that the pan usually has a lip and depth designed to collect moister so it doesnt run on the floor in the wall.  I dont have a leak that I can see.  Its on the 2nd floor and I have examined the floor from underneath and the drain and dont see anything that looks like a leak.  I'm guessing the pan is doing its job.  

Some of them call for caulk, some do not.  Is there a rule?  It would seem there is a bit of overlap where the panels fit together that would prevent water from getting behind it making caulking unnecessary and potentially cause it to retain water if sealed?  Would anyone think that the failing caulk is now allowing it to work as its supposed to in the first place (and meaning I need to closely inspect the wall behind the long panel for damage and mold.

Thanks
J


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## nealtw (Aug 18, 2016)

Join Date: Jun 2007, Strange to say  to someone who joined 4 year ahead of me.

They do have an overlap, so water won't leak out but hot moist air may get in there, I would caulk it.
Picking it out, cleaning it is a pain in the *** job, but, then clean it with denatured alcohol


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## udelslayer (Aug 18, 2016)

Thanks for the advice.  Do you think I should caulk it up to about an inch from the corners where the horizontal seam meets the vertical one on forward and rear sides?  I think there is supposed to be some kind of passage there.  I was able to make water drip for 3 days.  I could press the wall and watch small amounts of water drip out at about a tablespoon at a time.  Maybe what I was doing was opening the gap which made it able to drain, since the wall flexes.  I stopped using that shower until I found that it was completely dry today.  I have to investigate to see if there might be a minor leak, sweat, or spray from the shower head pipe that could be collecting in the catch lip.  I have to fix the drywall above it anyway and there is the tiniest of cracks in one of the corner of the base pan on the plumbing end.  Water doesnt just spray onto it.  The base flexes a bit and the shower creaks.  In fact, this plumbing backs up to tub/shower in the main hallway and that tub is a creaker too.  I have never experienced a creaking stall in my 39 years and am worried that this is going to lead to fatigue and failure.  

In the end, I'm pretty sure both units are getting replaced with something thats not dollar store quality but I wanted to understand the mechanics to make sure I'm not causing damage by neglect before I get to the job.  I'll be doing it myself and I'm looking into extra bits some kind of backer and reinforcing the floor to make it as durable as possible.  I guess I'll have to move this up on my schedule lol.  

I saw that some units are now sold with a foam block on the bottom for leveling.  Does this replace the need for packing it with mortar?  Would it be wise to coat the floor area with poly or epoxy to waterproof and even the surfaces?  I saw they make self-leveling kits for doing this.  


J


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## nealtw (Aug 19, 2016)

If you can get access under there you could still pack in mortar, I would seal all joints.


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## udelslayer (Aug 19, 2016)

In a best case scenario, how would I put enough mortar under the tub?  I can gain access to the side of the tub by going through the opposing wall which is behind kitchen cabinets, sink and stove.  Would I inject with a mortar bag or something else?  I wonder if I can build some kind of injector with a cardboard tube.  I'd think I'd need to pull the base tub, set the compound and replace the tub back.  I hear you need it to be really dry, so I'm not sure that a bag would work too well.  I also see that putting some primer down on the floor is preferable too.  

Not to second guess your suggestion, but if you seal all joints, what takes care of any condensation that might get behind the wall or is that a dumb concept?  I noticed in the store that most units have a pretty significant channel around the back for water.  It is an interior wall and when I stuck the endoscope behind the escutcheon plate, I did see some spots where mold had formed.  I didnt see any water, but my view was limited.  This thing is directly attached to studs and there doesnt look to be any kind of barrier.  Now I'm contemplating either putting in a Sterling Vickrell 3 panel unit or building up a tile surround on backer board.  

...and thanks for the welcome.  I've been more of an observer.  Having recently bought this strange house, I'm learning how to do things constantly.  I figure by the time I'm done tweaking this house that I'll be ready to move on to an even worse one.  I wonder if there is a market for bullet proofing homes in inner city areas.


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## nealtw (Aug 19, 2016)

Not sure how you get mortar in after although people have been known to do it, I have cheated and put foam under.
When you put a tile surround in You use backer board because plywood or drywall might get wet, you seal that with Redgard because it might get wet. You silicone all corners to keep the water out. Then you seal the grout because it will absorb moisture.
I would say it is a safe bet to seal every seam you can find.


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## udelslayer (Aug 20, 2016)

It "seams" that way with water.


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