# Door Jabs wider than drywall



## milbry18 (Mar 16, 2007)

I remodeled my home by gutting all the horsehair plaster off my walls and ceiling.  I redrywalled the walls and ceiling everthing is good, EXCEPT the new drywall isn't as thick as the old plaster was so therefore my door jabs stick out farther than the drywall.  The door jams are not all sticking out the same amount either.  I thought about cutting down the door jambs, but doubt I will get it even enough to look right.  I am looking for suggestions for finishing around these doorways in order to make it look good.  Thanks in advance Bryan!


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## glennjanie (Mar 16, 2007)

Hello Bryan and Welcome to the Fourm:
First you need to shim behind the casings to fasten them solid to the wall. Then you could use some wood trim to cover the crack; maybe a 3/4" cove mould, 1-1/8" window stop, or even batten ( 3/16" thick by  1-1/2" wide like you cover joints in a plywood ceiling or wall with).
Glenn


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## Square Eye (Mar 17, 2007)

Or you could seal the crack with caulking. Clear caulking for stained casings, white or whatever color for painted casings.


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## milbry18 (Mar 22, 2007)

Can you post pics on this forum?  I could get pictures of my door jambs and then you can see my issues more clearly.


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## glennjanie (Mar 22, 2007)

Yes, you can post pictures; just click on the yellow and green mountain scene.
Glenn


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## milbry18 (Mar 22, 2007)

I am trying to post my pictures but it says the pics are too big to post?  What can I do?


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## Daryl in Nanoose (Mar 22, 2007)

You need to download a program for resizing your pics. Here is the one i use 
http://www.irfanview.com/
 After you have installed the program open your saved photo through the program and go to the "Image" tool bar at the top and click it then go down the list till you find resize and open it. Then you can resie it from there. I think i use 600x400. Of course someone else could probably exsplain it better.


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## milbry18 (Mar 23, 2007)

Here of the pics of the door jambs, any suggestions on how to trim around or over top of the wide jambs? 

View attachment trim 001.bmp


View attachment trim 002.bmp


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## milbry18 (Mar 23, 2007)

Here is the last picture, I think its crazy that you have to shrink your pics down this small to get them to upload!!  I spend over 1 hour just to get 3 pics uploaded.  I hope they aren't soo small you can't see them! 

View attachment trim 003.bmp


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## glennjanie (Mar 23, 2007)

Hey Bryan: 
My original answer is still good. I just thought you already had the casing nailed to the jamb.
You need to shim out on your walls to match the projection of the jambs. This can be accomplished by ripping strips to match up and place them from the jamb to match the back side of your casing; you may have to fine tune the strips with a plane. Paint the strips the same color as the walls and nail the casing to the jamb and the shim strips. The color will make them less noticeable and no one will know what happened but you. Thank you for the pictures, you did just fine.
Glenn


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## milbry18 (Mar 26, 2007)

Someone has suggested to me using a plunge router to get a straighter cut on the door jambs?  Do you feel this would work, rather than shimming out the trim???  Thanks Bryan


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## Square Eye (Mar 26, 2007)

An edge guided router bit would be great!
On with a ball bearing roller on the tip.

BUT

When you cut the frame down, the door will not fit in the frame the same as before. This could cause problems with hinge load bearing and latching problems. 
The best solution is to use lattice strips or handmade rips behind the casing.
If you need to, you can use shims to fine tune the width you need. Clear caulking will hide a multitude of sin when it's on the edge of dark stained trim.
On painted casings, Caulk the cracks and paint it. Use the router on the side of the frame opposite the hinges and latch.


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