# Shower Curb Size



## cogzoid (Sep 15, 2014)

I'm am remodeling the bathroom completely from the joists up.  So far I've redone the plumbing (converted to PEX) and I'm putting the floor back down.

I'm putting in a 30" x 54" shower (a standard size from the local glass/shower door supplier), but I'm trying to find out a key piece of info: where do I put down the curb?  The curb will be ~4" wide.  But, should the center line of the curb follow the 30" x 54" dimensions, or should it be the inside, or the outside of the curb?  I know this seems like a silly question, but I couldn't get an answer from the sales person at the glass store.  I need to talk to the installer, but I haven't been able to talk to him.

Thanks in advance for all the help.


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## nealtw (Sep 15, 2014)

You need to talk to the installer, the people that sell the glass should have the answer also.


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## beachguy005 (Sep 15, 2014)

Look here...


http://www.johnbridge.com/how-to/shower-curb/


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## cogzoid (Sep 15, 2014)

nealtw said:


> You need to talk to the installer, the people that sell the glass should have the answer also.



Getting the installer on the phone, and hearing a clear answer from him isn't as easy as I'd hoped.


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## cogzoid (Sep 15, 2014)

beachguy005 said:


> Look here...
> 
> 
> http://www.johnbridge.com/how-to/shower-curb/


Thanks!  Lots of great info at John Bridge's site!  I'm going to have to read all of that!  However, I see lots of great info on how to MAKE the curb, just not WHERE to put it.  If anyone else has done put a sliding glass enclosure on your shower curb, I'd love to hear about it, or maybe even see a photo!


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## beachguy005 (Sep 15, 2014)

Go to their forum where you'll find lots of tile guys to answer that question.  Honestly though,  the answer to where you put the curb...under the door.
I would install it on the center line of the door.  The top of the curb has to pitch slightly into the shower.


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## cogzoid (Sep 15, 2014)

Thanks, Beachguy. You've been very helpful!


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## nealtw (Sep 15, 2014)

My worry was only if there is an end glass also if it is just the glass and door between to walls , I would put it center.


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## cogzoid (Sep 16, 2014)

nealtw said:


> My worry was only if there is an end glass also if it is just the glass and door between to walls , I would put it center.



There is, in fact an end glass.  We'll be making an L of glass to surround the shower, with tile on the wall as the other surface.  What would you do differently, due to the end glass?


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## nealtw (Sep 16, 2014)

I would put the glass in the center of the curb and the center of the curb depends on the width of the glass for the end and the center of the end crub is at the length of the door and glass so you need to know the glass sizes ordered.


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## slownsteady (Sep 17, 2014)

Take a look at the mounting hardware for the glass. That might give you some indication. But this is something i have no direct experience with.


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## diyshowers (Sep 19, 2014)

So the curb is installed separate onto the shower base? I don't think I have ever heard of this. Typically a shower base is comprised of 3 tile flanges, a curb, and a shower pan with the drain all in one piece. As for where you would mount the door. If your threshold is 4" wide I would recommend mounting the door towards the outside of the curb in order to give you more room in the shower. Make sure there is a slight slope toward the shower pan to ensure drainage to the inside of the shower.


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## nealtw (Sep 19, 2014)

diyshowers said:


> So the curb is installed separate onto the shower base? I don't think I have ever heard of this. Typically a shower base is comprised of 3 tile flanges, a curb, and a shower pan with the drain all in one piece. As for where you would mount the door. If your threshold is 4" wide I would recommend mounting the door towards the outside of the curb in order to give you more room in the shower. Make sure there is a slight slope toward the shower pan to ensure drainage to the inside of the shower.



Welcome to the site nice to see a new sponsor that diggs in and trys to help out.


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## odorf (Sep 27, 2014)

your curb should have bee installed when the pan was put down,  the pan should wrap up and over the curb.

also,  what product was used for the pan and walls? schleter?  
green board sheet rock is water resistant not water proof


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## cogzoid (Sep 28, 2014)

odorf said:


> your curb should have bee installed when the pan was put down,  the pan should wrap up and over the curb.
> 
> also,  what product was used for the pan and walls? schleter?
> green board sheet rock is water resistant not water proof



I am planning on installing a "goof proof" mortar/liner/mortar shower pan.  I've got the pre-pitch ABS rails to make sure the pitch is correct under the liner, as well as the rails that make sure the pitch of the tiles is correct.

As for the walls, niche, etc., I'm using Hardibacker cement board with RedGard waterproofing.  Of course, all of this is in the future still.  I'm currently installing the fixtures in the walls.  My house is 95 years old and the studs are only 2.5" thick, so I'm going to have to be clever on how I build out the wall a little further in the shower.  I also had to move around a few studs so there's room for the fixtures.

I successfully moved the water heater outside (built a little shed for it and everything).  It just so happens the best spot for it was right next to the bathroom, meaning I won't have to wait very long for the shower to get hot.

I'm putting in some fancy thermostatic shower controls, as well.  This was the one area of the house I didn't want to cut corners.  Of course, this would all go a lot faster if I wasn't doing everything myself.

For those with shower pan experience, how is it measured?  Is the 54" x 30" dimensions the inside of the shower, or is that the distance from wall to curb?  If I make my custom shower pan a standard size, I bet the shower curb will be in the right spot...  Thanks!


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## beachguy005 (Sep 28, 2014)

As for your shower walls, you want to be absolutely sure they are perfectly plumb, completely flat and square.  It makes for a better and easier tile job.


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## cogzoid (Sep 28, 2014)

It's a 95 year old house.  I have to work with what I have.



beachguy005 said:


> As for your shower walls, you want to be absolutely sure they are perfectly plumb, completely flat and square.  It makes for a better and easier tile job.


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## odorf (Sep 29, 2014)

cogzoid said:


> It's a 95 year old house.  I have to work with what I have.



dont mean to be a wise azz,:rofl:  but NO,  you dont have to work with what you have.  the difference between a pro and a diy.  is the pro.  will shim, plane, fur out, or replace the studs to make the area square and plumb
 a diy,  will slap the rock on the wall and  complain the tile is crooked
which guy are you?   

do it right, when the walls are open, saves a lot of time later.  trust me on this,  i have screwed up before:2cents:


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## cogzoid (Sep 29, 2014)

I'll definitely do the shimming and even some furring, as the walls have 2.5" studs, so I need to build them out for the shower fixtures, which are expecting 3.5" studs.

I realize that I haven't been asking my question clearly.  I made some quick diagrams to help.

If I were to buy a standard 30" x 54" shower tub, where would those dimensions be measured from in the completed shower?  Pick two letters:











If I make my shower base the same dimensions as if I had used a drop in shower pan, I will have no problems with the standard shower glass dimensions either.  At least, that's my plan.

Thanks for all the help guys!


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## odorf (Sep 29, 2014)

tubs are measured from stud to stud

a rough frame "tub hole"  is 60 1/4"  or 60 1/8  
 a tub  from the factory is anywhere from  59 7/8--60 1/8 
 depending on finish  they come 1n common size of 30"  , 32", 36"

a one piece tub/shower  is inserted into the hole then screwed to the walls
aftr it is leveled/plumbed  they generally have a lip on them for the sheet rock/dura rock to attach to


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## nealtw (Sep 29, 2014)

A plastic shower base is attached to the studs. The backer board stops at the flange and the tiles cover the flange. So you would frame the spot for those measurements exactly.


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## cogzoid (Sep 29, 2014)

nealtw said:


> A plastic shower base is attached to the studs. The backer board stops at the flange and the tiles cover the flange. So you would frame the spot for those measurements exactly.



So, Neal, you're saying the 30" or 54" inches is measured from the A point on the drawing.  Are the other sides of those measurements C (from my drawing)?  If anyone has taken a tape measure to their shower pan, they'd be able to answer this question very quickly.


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## nealtw (Sep 29, 2014)

All I know for sure is in new houses if the plan says 60" that's what you frame it. That's true for tubs and showers. Once in a while a plumber shoes up with something from China, slightly smaller, then you just strap the wall with something to make it the right size.

Trying to compare with someones finished product may not work, as you don't know exactly what they have done. On ocasions we have notched studs on older houses if the new item is slightly larger than what was framed. So if you measured that finished shower it would appear smaller.


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## cogzoid (Sep 30, 2014)

Thanks for the help, Neal!


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## beachguy005 (Sep 30, 2014)

So I'm confused....you say you're using a pre-slope kit but then you're talking about using a pan.  With a pre-slope kit you will tile the shower floor.  With a plastic shower base you don't need a pre-slope kit because that plastic base pan has the slope built into it.


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## cogzoid (Oct 1, 2014)

I am trying to make my mud shower floor (using a pre-pitch kit) the same dimensions as a standard shower pan, so that a standard glass shower door will fit, without having to pay for a custom shower door.  I misspoke and called my mud/liner/mud floor a "pan".  I'm not a professional so my jargon usage gets muddled.

Here's why I'm still confused.  If both the standard 54" x 30" glass shower enclosure, and the standard 54" x 30" shower pan are actually 54" x 30" then the glass won't line up with the middle of the shower curb, which would be at ~56" x ~32".  One of these standards isn't the real measurement.  You know, like a 2"x4".  And like all trade standards, it's only passed down verbally, apparently.


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## beachguy005 (Oct 1, 2014)

Yeah...I'm still not too clear on it.  If you're using a shower kit, which I'll assume is just the walls of the shower, does it have mounting instructions with the dimensions it requires?  You don't need to be in the center of the curb, which is going to be a few inches wide.


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## nealtw (Oct 1, 2014)

You are back where we started you have the measurement of the glass.


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## nealtw (Oct 1, 2014)

http://www.bascoshowerdoor.com/files/files/measuring-guide.pdf


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## cogzoid (Oct 2, 2014)

Beachguy,

I am using a pitch kit to make the floor.  As well as the Pitch Kit for the mud on top of the PVC liner.  There's no other kit for the walls etc, and certainly no instructions.  Give me a little credit.

Neal,

Thanks for the link for how to measure for custom glass doors.  Unfortunately, this is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.  I'm trying to fit a STANDARD 54" shower door and avoid the extra expense of a custom solution.

What is the ACTUAL dimensions of a 54" x 30" shower tub, from studs, to curbs?  Is it actually 54" x 30" or is it a "trade size"?  This is the heart of my question.  I am assuming that this will fit a standard 54" shower door.  But perhaps that's a bad assumption?


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## nealtw (Oct 2, 2014)

I just noticed they were measuring in the center of the curb, but I still think your best bet would be to buy the glass and measure it.


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## beachguy005 (Oct 2, 2014)

Dude...I am giving you credit....just very little credit.  We're trying to help you out here.  You keep saying "kits" and kits come with instructions.  You keep asking for dimensions of something you're not going to be using.....if that's all the information you need, then find the company that sells the 58x30 shower tub that you're not going to be using, and get the rough in dimensions from them.


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## odorf (Oct 3, 2014)

cogzoid said:


> Beachguy,
> 
> I am using a pitch kit to make the floor.  As well as the Pitch Kit for the mud on top of the PVC liner.  There's no other kit for the walls etc, and certainly no instructions.  Give me a little credit.
> 
> ...






hey,  g.morning.  coffee is good.
in this paragraph , you saytheir is no kit for walls.   
if you do not water proof your walls.  you WILL be riping the walls out within 2--3 years and repacing studs, and floor

http://www.schluter.com/8_4_kerdi_shower_kit.aspx


as far as the framing goes
frame the hole , the same size s he pan/liner you have bought
your liner should fold up the sides of the walls by 6"
the curb,  is made out of 2  2x4  stacked on top of each other
the placement of the curb....next to the liner/pan
so that the sides of the liner fold up the side,  just like the walls

IF..your are using a fold able liner,  the corners need to be folded correctly
 the fold is called a "pigs ear" 

google shower plan liner instalation/  corner folding

after you have set the curb, installed, pan, installed water proofing on wall
measure your tile.  >>>measure the top of our curb>>
IF.  the tile is wider than the curb
on the front of the curb.  add a piece of wood to make the tile work out with the curb

AGAIN>>the curb, sits, outside the pan, in front of the shower
              the pan folds up the side of the curb. 
              you MUST!!!!!!  water proof walls,  curb, EVERYTHING that will come incontact with H2O


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## odorf (Oct 3, 2014)

you are WAY WAY over thinking

buy your shower door kit.  read the instructions.  youtube it!!!!

the track the door sits in can be modified to be any length you want. 
 common since..not bigger than 5'
 if its a little shorter than 5'  no big deal, the 2 doors slide beside each other
technically..the opening could be as narrow as 3'.  you would never slide the door, but the kit would install

you  savvy yet way??

http://www.tools4flooring.com/media...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/o/a/oatey-42237.jpg


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