# Attaching base molding to plastic door?



## zepper (Oct 30, 2017)

Hey guys,

I'm putting some quarter-round molding between our "floating" wood floor and the bottoms of our patio doors. Obviously I don't want to go driving nails or brads into the door. What sort of adhesive can I use that'll stick to... Er, what is that door frame, anyway? Vinyl?


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## zepper (Oct 30, 2017)

Ah, Liquid Nails, maybe? That's what I'm seeing in a couple of (possibly amateur) videos. I always like to run things like this by you too.  ;?)


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## nealtw (Oct 30, 2017)

Double sided tape.


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## zepper (Oct 30, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Double sided tape.



Ulp&#8212;better not say things like that, as in my ignorance I'll follow your advice.  :?O

All I can really find online is how to install these on wood frames. I'd rather not make a mess (and lower my wife's opinion of my handiness) by trying one or more ineffective adhesives, so thanks for any (actual) ideas you may have.


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## joecaption (Oct 30, 2017)

I just use a bead of color matched caulking to fill the gap and skip the 1/4 round, making sure to only fill the gap and not have it all over the flooring or vinyl frame.


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## oldognewtrick (Oct 30, 2017)

I agree with Joe. Use painters tape on the floor and door frame allowing just enough space to allow the caulk to fill the voids. Wet your finger tip, smooth the caulk, pull the tape and your wife will be amazed how handy you are.


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## nealtw (Oct 30, 2017)

zepper said:


> Ulpbetter not say things like that, as in my ignorance I'll follow your advice.  :?O
> 
> All I can really find online is how to install these on wood frames. I'd rather not make a mess (and lower my wife's opinion of my handiness) by trying one or more ineffective adhesives, so thanks for any (actual) ideas you may have.



That sounds like a challenger to me.

Check out the video on this site, I will accept an apology:trophy:
.http://www.surfaceshields.com/products/adhesive-tape/carpet-installation-tape#


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## havasu (Oct 30, 2017)

I did the painter's tape and colored matched caulk, which can be seen on the right of the picture against the bathtub. It turned out great.


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## joecaption (Oct 30, 2017)

There is no need for tape!
A siliconized latex caulk a stiff sponge and a bowl of water is all you need to do a perfect job.


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## oldognewtrick (Oct 30, 2017)

Tape makes a cleaner line IF you are not very good a running a caulk line. Needed, no, easy for a novice, yes.


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## zepper (Oct 30, 2017)

joecaption said:


> I just use a bead of color matched caulking to fill the gap and skip the 1/4 round, making sure to only fill the gap and not have it all over the flooring or vinyl frame.





oldognewtrick said:


> I agree with Joe. Use painters tape on the floor and door frame allowing just enough space to allow the caulk to fill the voids. Wet your finger tip, smooth the caulk, pull the tape and your wife will be amazed how handy you are.



Thanks&#8212;and believe me, I'm a big fan of caulking and puttying, since it's so much easier than, you know, measuring.

Unfortunately, since this is a floating floor (planks cemented to each other, and occasionally to me, but not to the subfloor), I can't go filling in my carefully-planned expansion gaps where it meets the wall. 

It's especially true on this project with unusually long runs of flooring (don't tell the flooring co.), and the sun shines on it part of the day (the floor I mean, not the flooring co.&#8212;well, I guess that's true too), and here in Canada we have actual seasons, unlike L.A. where I grew up, where the only season I remember is drive-by shooting season.



nealtw said:


> That sounds like a challenger to me... Check out the video on this site, I will accept an apology:trophy:
> .http://www.surfaceshields.com/products/adhesive-tape/carpet-installation-tape#



My good dude, sorry I didn't take you seriously, but I'd never heard of such a thing&#8212;and as you didn't link to it right away, you left me thinking it'd be just the kind of gag my friends would play on me, to see if I'd go out and buy a bunch of this:






...hoping Staples might give me a contractor's discount. (BTW, I've shown the multi-lingual version of the tape here for the benefit of my fellow Canadians, as it's well known that everyone in the U.S. speaks English only.)

And here's something interesting, Neal: When I looked for a dealer for your trim tape, the first place I found was Tools4Flooring.com in Earth City, MO. And according to Wikipedia's Earth City, MO page:



			
				Wikipedia said:
			
		

> Earth City received the distinction of being the first city in Missouri that was home to more Canada geese than human beings by Missouri Field and Stream magazine in 2007.


 I found this remarkable because:

&#8226; Outside of Toronto and Montreal, Canada geese _always_ outnumber the people here.

&#8226; There's a special Missouri version of Field and Stream?? Does each state have one, 'cause there's so much game to shoot down there? If so, there's your justification for needing all the guns, eh? (Assault rifles too&#8212;you can't fool around if you want to take down those tough Canadian geese.)

So thanks, I'll ask around locally for that tape. 

Meanwhile, I just realized there's an actual Flooring sub-forum. So Admin, if you want to move this thread there, you won't offend me... I'm married, and used to not getting anything right on the first try (or second, or third...) Cheers, A.


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## slownsteady (Oct 30, 2017)

Can we assume you're going with the 1/4 round molding and the tape? Let us know how it turns out.


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## nealtw (Oct 31, 2017)

One friend of mine used a vinyl trim and some clear glue for pvc vacuum plumbing.


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## zepper (Nov 3, 2017)

I ended up using Scotch Indoor Carpet Tape, which I found at a local building supplies store. There are a few types of it:

&#8226; Carpet to carpet
&#8226; Concrete & subfloors 
&#8226; Vinyl, ceramics & hardwood

I got the latter:








It worked great. The tape was twice as wide as my 3/4" molding, so I:

*1.* Applied one side of the tape along the molding's surface that'd go against the wall.

*2.* Cut the tape down the middle with an Xacto knife. The molding profile I used made this particularly easy:








You can lightly press the tape against the bevel, cut down the center of it, then pull the cut tape away. If you do this carefully, the cut piece comes off intact and ready to use. 

(On longer moldings you can mark the mid-point and apply tape that far, then the cut-off piece fits the rest.)

Typically, longer pieces of molding must be pressed down to be completely straight, and this tape's pretty grippy&#8212;so I made sure each part of the molding was right where I wanted it before pressing it against the wall (door). So I recommend using good light, keeping your eyes open, and taking your time.

Thanks a lot, Neal, I never would've thought of this. Obviously the use of office supplies in construction is underrated. :?)


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