# Accidentally cut through basement ceiling joist - worried!



## kmwest (May 18, 2015)

We bought a 1924 house about a year ago, with cement block foundation. During the inspection (during spring rains) we could tell the basement has had flooding before. Next week we are having our basement draintiled and the interior of the block covered with a vapor seal wrapping. 
In preparation for this we had to take down a large cabinet that had been nailed in and hanging from two basement ceiling joists. One side came down easily, the cabinet was just nailed to a small board which was then nailed into a joist, so we simply cut the cabinet from the other board and it came down. 
The other side was much tougher, it was hanging in the basement corner next to our breaker box and the main power line going outside so I was very gunshy about putting a sawzall blade into a power line. I was also trying to avoid cutting apart the cabinet (wife was very attached to this thing).
Well, my stupid self had to cut apart the cabinet anyways, AND I put a slanted cut almost entirely through the joist that rests on the block.

Joist resting on the block in the corner of the basement, with the remnants of where the cabinet was nailed into it: Image

With markings drawn on (red is the cut, yellow is the outline of where the cabinet used to be nailed into the joist): Image

My big question is, should I be worried here? What do I need to do to correct this so the corner of my house doesn't collapse on me?!? I'm new to the DIY world so this is freaking me out a bit. Please help.

Ralph


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## joecaption (May 18, 2015)

Can not even tell what those pictures are suppost to be showing?
What's that white stuff, spray foam?


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## nealtw (May 18, 2015)

Welcome to the site.
Little hard to make out exactly what you have. How deep did the saw go up into the joist?
It appears it is right up against the concrete wall. Is it against the concrete? Then you might just bolt to the concrete.
If you just cut up a few inches you might just nail on a length of 2x4, lots of nails, will replace the strength of the bottom 1/3
Or bolt a peice of treaded 2x4 to the concrete below to support it.


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## inspectorD (May 19, 2015)

Your going to be fine. The cut is not in the direction that really matters. I have seen tree bark on a joist with more material missing... go on to your next project, Have fun.


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## kmwest (May 19, 2015)

@joecaption: yes, that's spray foam, the electrical breaker box is to the bottom left of the picture frame and the main power line goes under the spray foam, through the foundation to the meter outside.

@nealtw: The saw curved its way all through the joist to the block foundation

@inspectorD: When you say that 'The cut is not in the direction that really matters' please explain more.

Thanks to all.

Ralph


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## nealtw (May 19, 2015)

kmwest said:


> @joecaption: yes, that's spray foam, the electrical breaker box is to the bottom left of the picture frame and the main power line goes under the spray foam, through the foundation to the meter outside.
> 
> @nealtw: The saw curved its way all through the joist to the block foundation
> 
> ...



All the way to the top, About half the depth or only the bottom third.
If yes to any of these questions, then a  repair of some sort is called for.


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## CallMeVilla (May 19, 2015)

Wow, you sure made a mess of that joist ...  but then, you already knew that.  

Start by cutting away the foam with a steak knife (because you cannot be trusted with a sawzall).  See how much meat (pun) is remaining on the joist.  You could sister a 2x6 across the damaged area from the wall back to undamaged wood (3 feet of good wood is optimum).  Glue with PL Premium before attaching.  Clamp the wood firmly then face nail from both sides as per a usual joist sistering. That means three 16d nails every 16" ...


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## kmwest (May 19, 2015)

Is sistering the joist something that can wait a couple weeks until I can hire a professional to do it - I have never done a joist sistering I am planning to go out of town to see family for Memorial Day weekend to boot.  And if it can wait, what should I look for in terms of qualifications and cost?  Because frankly, looking at DIY directions online, I am not eager to mess things up further!

Also should I be concerned that the basement water treatment workers will be cutting into the foundation blocks to make the drain tile at the beginning of next week?  (Concerned about lack of support with a cut joist and potentially weaker foundation blocks)


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## CallMeVilla (May 19, 2015)

You can go on your trip.  The sistering is really quite simple.  Just cut the 2x6 to length.  Apply PL Premium to the damaged joist in a wavy pattern (think sine wave).  Have someone hold the good end of your new wood while you both slap the new onto the old.   Hammer a 16d nail on your end.  Have your helper do the same on his end.  Apply some clamps to solidly hold the boards together (should only take three clamps).

Ideally, a nail gun should be used to finish the nailing ... but you can hand nail if necessary.  Apply three nails into your end, move down 16" do it again, move 16", etc.  Where you took off too much of the joist, try to get at least one nail.  One the good end, you can nail away!

DONE.   Now, this is a DIY site ...  that means you are doing it yourself.  Since you created this mess, why not have the joy of saying "I fixed it!"


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## nealtw (May 19, 2015)

CallMeVilla said:


> You can go on your trip.  The sistering is really quite simple.  Just cut the 2x6 to length.  Apply PL Premium to the damaged joist in a wavy pattern (think sine wave).  Have someone hold the good end of your new wood while you both slap the new onto the old.   Hammer a 16d nail on your end.  Have your helper do the same on his end.  Apply some clamps to solidly hold the boards together (should only take three clamps).
> 
> Ideally, a nail gun should be used to finish the nailing ... but you can hand nail if necessary.  Apply three nails into your end, move down 16" do it again, move 16", etc.
> 
> DONE.   Now, this is a DIY site ...  that means you are doing it yourself.  Since you created this mess, why not have the joy of saying "I fixed it!"



clamping will be tricky when it is against the wall 
Drive 2 nails straight up into the joists and bend them over flat sticking out the side so they old up the board while you nail it.
Start all your nails in the board before you put glue on it.
Everyone down there loves glue but is not required just an extra if you like extras.


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## bud16415 (May 19, 2015)

What are these nails you speak of again. The Amish guy I had do my roof the other day was also talking about them. 

DIY 101 is get a really nice good quality hand drill. The craze is cordless but I like the corded ones for pure power. Cut your sister and drill some holes slightly larger than the good quality deck screws you buy to do the repair with a special driver that really locks to the screw (square or others) Drilling the holes is your clamp. You don&#8217;t need to drill holes for all your screws but doing a few will draw the board up tight for the remaining screws. Put liquid nails (the only nails I like) on the board like you really mean business and stick it up there and run a screw in the middle in one of your drilled holes to pull it up tight. Then the ends. Once it&#8217;s in contact really good run in more screws here and there and from both sides if you can. 

Save one screw and run it right up the end of the liquid nails tube to plug it up. It wont keep forever once opened bit will keep a while if plugged.

Oil up your hammer to keep it from rusting as you will use it in the spring for putting in flower stakes.


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## nealtw (May 19, 2015)

bud16415 said:


> What are these nails you speak of again. The Amish guy I had do my roof the other day was also talking about them.
> 
> DIY 101 is get a really nice good quality hand drill. The craze is cordless but I like the corded ones for pure power. Cut your sister and drill some holes slightly larger than the good quality deck screws you buy to do the repair with a special driver that really locks to the screw (square or others) Drilling the holes is your clamp. You dont need to drill holes for all your screws but doing a few will draw the board up tight for the remaining screws. Put liquid nails (the only nails I like) on the board like you really mean business and stick it up there and run a screw in the middle in one of your drilled holes to pull it up tight. Then the ends. Once its in contact really good run in more screws here and there and from both sides if you can.
> 
> ...



You will still be looking for a cord while I put that 22 oz hammer back in my pouch., three nails or screws every 12 to 16"


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