# Adding new receptacle and switch



## 8888 (Feb 4, 2012)

Hello, I would appreciate any pro electricians to check my proposed wiring.

I need to add a new receptacle and switch to my AV closet by tapping into an existing circuit.

The receptacle will be to power the AV gear, and the switch will turn on/off a cooling fan.

Assuming that there are no wiring errors in the attached drawing, then:

*Question* - Where should I wire the switch to for power? Box1, Box2, or directly to the receptacle in Box3?

*NOTE: This is a Home Automation switch, so it has Black, White, Red, and Green wires


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## kok328 (Feb 4, 2012)

Box 1 & 2 are not necessary.
Bring the existing power into Box 3, pigtail your leads to power the outlet then exit the box to "rejoin existing power".
In Box 3 run leads off the bottom of the outlet and connect the hot into the fan switch and then come out of the switch to the fan (just like you have labeled "load"), run the neutral and ground off the bottom of the outlet directly to the fan.


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## JoeD (Feb 5, 2012)

Box 1 and 2 are necessary if you are cutting an existing cable to tap it and don't have enough slack to leave 6 inches in the junction box. One box could be eliminated IF the existing cable could be cut in a way so that one end would reach box three. Then you would only need a junction box to join a cable from box three to the other end of the cut cable.
The switch is shown in box 3. Power is in box three. Take power from box three.


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## kok328 (Feb 5, 2012)

JoeD said:


> Box 1 and 2 are necessary if you are cutting an existing cable to tap it and don't have enough slack to leave 6 inches in the junction box. One box could be eliminated IF the existing cable could be cut in a way so that one end would reach box three. Then you would only need a junction box to join a cable from box three to the other end of the cut cable.
> The switch is shown in box 3. Power is in box three. Take power from box three.



The issue of slack had occurred to me but, wanted to see if I could simplify things.  Typcially a run would not have 12" of slack in the line to install the proposed 3-box setup.  If 12" of slack could be found then it would definitely make things easier.


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## 8888 (Feb 5, 2012)

Now I'm more confused. I thought that a drawing would help visualize my setup. Here is another drawing.

Notes:
* Existing Romex is approximately 2' from Box 3, and once cut there will not be enough slack to do anything but box each end.
* This is NOT a regular switch. It has 4 permanent wires coming out BWRG, there are NO terminals.
http://www.smarthome.com/2476S/SwitchLinc-Relay-INSTEON-Remote-Control-On-Off-Switch-Non-Dimming-White/p.aspx

Let me re-ask the question:
1) Is the shown new config2 correct.
2) If there is another way, what is it, and why is it better or more correct.
3) Goal = New leg works, and my house won't burn down.

I'm not an electrician, so please keep answers at novice level using colors and/or drawings if possible

Many Thanks


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## JoeD (Feb 6, 2012)

The last drawing is correct except for one thing. You are not permitted to put two wires under one screw so you will need to pigtail the green at the receptacle. You could leave the green extra long and loop it over the screw continuing on to the switch or just move the incoming green into the wire nut at the switch.


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## 8888 (Feb 6, 2012)

JoeD said:


> The last drawing is correct except for one thing. You are not permitted to put two wires under one screw so you will need to pigtail the green at the receptacle. You could leave the green extra long and loop it over the screw continuing on to the switch or just move the incoming green into the wire nut at the switch.



Yes. The drawing was meant to illustrate one x-long ground wrapped around the screw, then continuing on.

Is there any benefit to tail'n the grounds. It would seem the only difference is 4 wires in the nut vs 3?

NEW QUESTION:
I have always wondered, when wiring inside of a box, is there any difference between using bare copper vs copper w/insulation??


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## JoeD (Feb 6, 2012)

Bare or green, either are permitted to be used for grounds. Since you are already using a pigtail for some of the grounds I don't see any difference doing it either way.


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## 8888 (Feb 6, 2012)

I am getting hammered on other forums for not using pigtails. It's pigtails, or you are a hack!

Can any pros out there explain all the pros and cons. Is it easier, faster, cheaper, or is it truly the only way to wire without causing electrical problems, fires?

I don't care which way, its the same amount of work for me. ALL I care about is that it is done safely.

I have added another drawing of what I understand a pigtail config would look like. My novice logic is to daisy chain, IN >> to the top screws, OUT >> from the bottom screws to the next device.

HELP!


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## JoeD (Feb 7, 2012)

I personally prefer screw terminals if there are enough of them. There is nothing in the code requiring pigtails for this situation. There are some specific cases where pigtails are required but not here. It's like the ground up or down question. There is nothing in the code but some will insist it has to be one way or the other.


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## prh44 (Feb 14, 2012)

In this case you are fine with out pigtails. The install meets NEC requirements. Pigtails are better when wiring multiply devices. This keeps down strean current flow from going through the upstream devices. It also will allow you to remove a device and not interupt down strem service. This is really important on multiwire branch circuits were the neutral can be energized even if one would turn off the circuit.
A multiwire branch circuit uses two hot feeds returning on one neutral.


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## prh44 (Feb 14, 2012)

One wire per terminal is required on most devices


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