# How do I fix this kind of drywall problem?



## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 2, 2017)

The moulding will be removed and the ceiling tile is removed for another reason. I know how to do drywall patches, but there's nothing to anchor to here.


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## joecaption (Dec 2, 2017)

I'd enlarge the hole to the side of the next stud, then attach a short 2 X 4 to the side of the stud so you have something to screw to.
An oscillating saw will make a nice neat cut if you take the time to mark out nice straight lines.


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## Snoonyb (Dec 2, 2017)

Cut the drywall in the center of the stud on the right, measure to the stud on the left, add 3/4" and cut the drywall there, on the bottom insert a piece of at least 1X3 as backing. Screw both the existing and patch piece of drywall to the backing.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 2, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Cut the drywall in the center of the stud on the right, measure to the stud on the left, add 3/4" and cut the drywall there, on the bottom insert a piece of at least 1X3 as backing. Screw both the existing and patch piece of drywall to the backing.



How do I secure the 1x3 horizontal backing to both vertical studs? Obviously with screws, but I just can't picture it.

Also, do I use tape for these kinds of patches? Or is that just for joining whole sheets?


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## Snoonyb (Dec 2, 2017)

You do not need to attach the 1X too the studs, the drywall is rigid enough.

Yes, tape on these and all similar joints.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 6, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> You do not need to attach the 1X too the studs, the drywall is rigid enough.
> 
> Yes, tape on these and all similar joints.



Okay thanks.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 6, 2017)

Any tips on fixing this drywall hole that is slightly off the center of the light?


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## nealtw (Dec 6, 2017)

I would cut out a 2 ft sq and try it again. If you were good at geometry you could cut it off center so you could just turn the piece and screw it up.:rofl:


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## Snoonyb (Dec 6, 2017)

Or, if the circumference of the fixture is large enough to cover it, install the fixture.


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## Snoonyb (Dec 6, 2017)

Or, I can teach you how to do a butterfly patch, saving time and material.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 15, 2017)

I fixed this with a 6" x 4" patch.

Here's a new drywall question, without starting a new thread...

I have to tape and mud an entire ceiling in a 1500 sq. ft. house. 3 coats. I bought a drywall sander so that will greatly increase the speed of sanding. But can I mechanize the application of the joint compound? Is that what this is...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Level-5-10-in-Drywall-Compound-Flat-Box-4-765/207001237

So I can apply joint compound as fast as I can walk, rather than moving a stepladder and using joint knives/taping knives?

Is this machine adjustable so that I can use it for all 3 coats? It says 10".

Also, if I use self adhesive tape, does that eliminate the need for the first coat, so I only need two?


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2017)

Using the self-adhesive tape does not eliminate the 1st coat.

A bazooka simplifies the process.

That "box" along with a corner box will speed the process.

Keeping the moisture content of the mud consistent, as well as adjusting to that variation will also help.

There is a learning curve to all speed products.

Here is a link to some of professional tools; http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Automatic-Taping-Tools/

Stilts are a suggestion, though illegal in some locals.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 15, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Using the self-adhesive tape does not eliminate the 1st coat.
> 
> A bazooka simplifies the process.
> 
> ...



Okay thanks.

I just picked up a 10" box at a pawn shop. Can this be used for all 3 coats? Currently, I'm using 6", 8", then 12" knives.


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2017)

If the pole came with it.

Look at the nfg's site to find replacement blades.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 15, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> If the pole came with it.
> 
> Look at the nfg's site to find replacement blades.



The pole did not come with it.

So there are replaceable blades that do different widths? Obviously, I can't do a 12" width with a 10" box, so maybe I should have bought a 12" box?

Also, the opening is actually 8", not 10" as is labeled. I checked with the manufacturer and they don't make a 8" box, only 7", 10", and 12". So am I only able to do 8" wide with this? Or is the width adjustable in some way?


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2017)

Here, this should help; TOP VALUE- Cinta Tools 10" Drywall Flat Finishing Box
Features exclusive adjustable pressure plate spring allows you to customize the pressure required to operate the flat box. Wheels mounted inside of side plates for true tracking. Durable extruded aluminum body construction and *adjustable stainless steel blade *provide top quality finish and reliability. Cinta 10" drywall flatbox finisher is ideally suited for base coats on flat seams, butt joints or cornerbead.
Adjustable pressure plate tension spring
Wheels mounted inside of side plates for true tracking.
Durable anodized aluminum body
High quality, top value
Adjustable stainless steel blade
Mfr: Cinta Tools 
MPN: CN25

If you feel there is a depression in the tape joint after the 2nd coat you can do a pass on either side of center.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 15, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Here, this should help; TOP VALUE- Cinta Tools 10" Drywall Flat Finishing Box
> Features exclusive adjustable pressure plate spring allows you to customize the pressure required to operate the flat box. Wheels mounted inside of side plates for true tracking. Durable extruded aluminum body construction and *adjustable stainless steel blade *provide top quality finish and reliability. Cinta 10" drywall flatbox finisher is ideally suited for base coats on flat seams, butt joints or cornerbead.
> Adjustable pressure plate tension spring
> Wheels mounted inside of side plates for true tracking.
> ...



Thanks.

So you're saying I can do all 3 coats with this box?


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2017)

Like I said, there is a learning curve and although the box is recommended for the base coat, trial and error will be the test of you talent.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 15, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Like I said, there is a learning curve and although the box is recommended for the base coat, trial and error will be the test of you talent.



In other words, I can do it.

Also, it just occurred to me that I don't technically need to sand between coats. That would save tons of time.

But I definitely need the pole or I won't even be able to start.


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2017)

Until you have some experience, I'd be sanding.

The poles may be available locally, unless they are universal.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 15, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Until you have some experience, I'd be sanding.
> 
> The poles may be available locally, unless they are universal.



Can you see a,blade in the picture I posted?

I might have to buy them too.

And why,does it say 10" when the opening is only 8"?


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## Snoonyb (Dec 15, 2017)

You are asking beyond my practice. I use a bazooka, stilts, knives and a pan.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 16, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> You are asking beyond my practice. I use a bazooka, stilts, knives and a pan.



Well I can't wait for the handle to come in the mail so I can use it.

It just took me 42 minutes to put the second coat on that room. With this flat box, might have taken 3.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Dec 19, 2017)

How do I patch drywall when there are studs on both sides of the hole, like in this picture? I can't put in 2 screws to anchor the wood.


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## Snoonyb (Dec 19, 2017)

See post #3.


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## mabloodhound (Jan 16, 2018)

That hole is small enough for a "butterfly" patch.
Measure the width & length of the opening.  Now cut a piece of drywall 2" longer and wider than the hole.  On the backside of the drywall patch, score the paper 1" in from each edge.  Snap the scored edge and then remove the gypsum from the front paper by gently peeling it off, leaving the front paper as a flap...around all four edges.
Now, apply a small amount of joint compound around the hole (to act as adhesive) and then put the patch in the hole.  Smooth out the flaps into the joint compound and feather out.  After first coat dries apply a finish coat.  NO tape is needed for this method as the drywall face flap IS the tape.
I use this method all the time for holes up to 12" square or round.  No screws or backing unless there is a need for strength due to a particular location.

Dave Mason


Dave Mason


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## joecaption (Jan 16, 2018)

I would cut out the sheetrock all the way to the inside corner just above the box and over to the side of the next stud, and add another 2 X 4 to the side of the stud for a nailer.
Trying to cut out sheetrock in the middle of a stud is far harder.
Anytime you have to cut out sheetrock like that it's very important to cut it with straight lines, just going to make far more work for yourself if not.
The best way, with an oscillating saw, with all the repairs your doing time to buy one.
It's one tool I could not live without. Even a cheap Harbor Freight one will work for what your doing.


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