# Sink Drain Problems



## chuckles (Mar 1, 2008)

The lever for the drain stop on the sink corroded so I elected to replace the whole assembly.  Now I wish I had only replaced the lever...  (I attached jpg files - couldn't figure out how to insert pictures).

Problems:
1) I now have a leak where the assembly butts up against the bottom of the sink.  I used plumbers putty under the flange on the lip of the assembly.  The water seems to be going into two holes at the top of the drain and then getting into a void space and then getting by the ring and nut just under the sink.  Any ideas on how to stop this leak?

2) There is also a leak where the plastic replacement assembly meets the metal trap assembly.  I suspect that part of my problem is that the drain goes from PVC to metal to plastic.  Note that the PVC has several angle transitions in it.  It sticks out from the wall about 7".  Should I cut it back and go to all PVC?  Or should I transition to metal?  Note that the wife wants to have a pedastal sink installed in place of this one in the next few years, so I don't want to spend a lot of money on this sink, but then again it would be nice to not have it leaking  

Thanks in advance.


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## triple D (Mar 1, 2008)

As far as the sink leak I don't follow you on the two holes, but definitely loosen nut under sink and face sink with liberal putty, then tighten with wrench firmly being careful not to crack it. As far as pvc to metal, it looks cross threaded, but if not check for plastic seal between them. If all looks well, reassemble then tighten pretty much as hard as you can on the plastic collars, but hold metal pipe in place firmly! Good luck.....


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## MinConst (Mar 2, 2008)

I agree with triple d it looks cross threaded. I would remove it all and replace it all with new plastic. The upper elbow of the trap looks like it is pretty corroded anyway. It also looks like quite a contraption getting into the wall. But it also looks like all the 45s are glued so it would be easiest to reuse the contraption as is. Just replace the trap and if the nut is crossed replace the flexible section also. When putting it together use a little plumbers grease on the plastic fittings it will make it all screw together easier. Also you might try some Teflon tape on the threads along with the grease this might save the plastic pieces.


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## glennjanie (Mar 2, 2008)

Hello Chuckles:
There should be a flat rubber washer under the drain pipe inside the sink and another rubber washer With inside sholders on it between the nut and the bottom of the sink. There are several configurations of nylon washers for the metal to plastic connections. I think the flex tailpiece is too long and pushing the trap out of line. When that is shorter the trap will level up and not look cross-threaded.
Glenn


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## handyguys (Mar 3, 2008)

And loose the flex piece. Those start to stink from gunk build-up after a while. Do it all in metal, no flex, and you should be fine. Plastic should be fine too I just prefer metal.


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## travelover (Mar 3, 2008)

This photo makes my head hurt! I'd replace it from the pop up to the wall with new parts. Buy a good pop up, though, as the cheap ones have mild steel in the  pop up lever and rust off.


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## lars (May 31, 2009)

Question 1)  I do not know if this will help, and I just installed a replacement sink pop up assembly myslf.  There is a nut (mine was a bronzish color) dirctly underneath the plastic spongy area that runs flush with the under sink.  If you tighten that nut really strongly the leak should decrease.  My sink is old and we don't have the funds to replace it now.  My guess is that the actual sink area around the stopper area gets worn away with time so any new replacement part will not exactly fit.  After tightening the nut I applied a water tight clear glue meant to seal boat leaks to fix this latter problem.  

Question 2)  I also have a plastic trap attached to the metal pop up I installed.  I had to re-tighten it several times and also experienced leaks.  My bet is that sizes change over years (like a size 2 is now a size 4  and pieces do not exactly match.  I also put that same water proof glue for boat leaks around this area and it seems to work.  (This can be found at any Ace-type hardware store). I hope this helps you smile and hold the line until you ( and I  can do a more major replacement.


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## Redwood (May 31, 2009)

First off get rid of the plastic pop-up assy.
They are junk!
Use chrome plated brass.
Use Sta-Put Ultra Plumbers Putty under the flange on the top and coat the threads where the rubber mack washer on the buttom will land with teflon paste.

Get rid of the flex tube and use a straight extension tube.

Replace the p-trap and put in one cut to the proper length so it lines up with the sink drain.

You will then have a good drain that works properly with no leaks.


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## Redwood (May 31, 2009)

On second look...
What is that curved mess of elbows coming out of the wall?

Chop that off as well and extend it straight out to mount the p-trap.

That downward curve creates an s-trap and is not vented properly.

You may want a plumber!


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