# Crown molding inside corners?



## TaskBoy (May 24, 2008)

Do I miter (eek!) or cope them like when I do base? Thanks.

EDIT: I was suffering extreme frustration with my first crown attempt today. I just realized that I was cutting OUTSIDE miters for my INSIDE corner copes. I mean, hey, the outside cuts slant back to overlap the moulding it's fitting to, right? In appearance yeah, but the curves of the moulding won't be accurately angled/displayed for back-cutting. No wonder my back-cut curves wouldn't fit.

So, I will try INSIDE miters for my INSIDE copes' back-cutting. I bet they will match up just fine now. I hope someone learns from my goof. I'll post results.


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## Big Al (May 24, 2008)

Miterings not bad. Upside down and backwards. Start with practice pieces and experiment.


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## glennjanie (May 24, 2008)

Hey Taskboy:
I prefer to cope inside corners because they are not always 'square' and when I cope with an undercut, the sharp edge presses in for a tight fit every time. I also like to cut my trim just a fuzz long so that it can spring in and hold itself.
Glenn


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## Daryl in Nanoose (May 25, 2008)

glennjanie said:


> Hey Taskboy:
> I prefer to cope inside corners because they are not always 'square' and when I cope with an undercut, the sharp edge presses in for a tight fit every time. I also like to cut my trim just a fuzz long so that it can spring in and hold itself.
> Glenn


    Also glue all corners togeather.


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## shan2themax (May 25, 2008)

TaskBoy said:


> Do I miter (eek!) or cope them like when I do base? Thanks.



this has my curiosity peaked since this will be one of my 130950175 projects... what is cope?


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## TaskBoy (May 25, 2008)

shan2themax said:


> this has my curiosity peaked since this will be one of my 130950175 projects... what is cope?



This I can answer, lol. Instead of two 45* ends meeting together, one piece is cut square ended to butt to the corner of the space and the other is cut to the curves or shape of the other piece so it overlaps the other w/o gaps. Make sense? 

Once I trace the curves from the molding onto the other piece it's meeting, I use a coping saw and an electric sander to remove the mat'l I don't need. I've only done this on base molding so far with great results.


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## shan2themax (May 25, 2008)

That makes alot of sense... so if you had a simple molding this would look great!!!!! intricate would be alot harder.... I cant wait to see the results!!!!!


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## Daryl in Nanoose (May 25, 2008)

TaskBoy said:


> This I can answer, lol. Instead of two 45* ends meeting together, one piece is cut square ended to butt to the corner of the space and the other is cut to the curves or shape of the other piece so it overlaps the other w/o gaps. Make sense?
> 
> Once I trace the curves from the molding onto the other piece it's meeting, I use a coping saw and an electric sander to remove the mat'l I don't need. I've only done this on base molding so far with great results.



If you miter the piece to be coped and then just follow the cut where it meats the profile with a back angle you will save yourself some time.


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## TaskBoy (Jun 25, 2008)

Per my edit...VICTORY today! I was cutting outside miter--doh! I banged the rest of the job out in a couple hours.


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