# Lifting home, adding more basement height



## UlyssesSign (Jul 27, 2016)

Hey guys. New to the forum. 
Had some questions about adding a basement 

My house is a 65x15 mini home. 
It has a 15x20 addition on the side.
I have a full footing and a 5' high cinderblock foundation. 
I was wondering what it would cost to lift the home and add 3' to the foundation with a knee wall. 
I am looking for a rough estimate, and if it would be worth doing.
If I go ahead with the foundation I am going to pour a slab underneath and dimple the walls for condensation. 
I would like to finish part of it eventually but for now just to have the room underneath would be nice. 

Let me know what you guys think. 

Thanks.


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## Sparky617 (Jul 27, 2016)

Talk with a house moving company to get a quote.  They have the equipment to lift the house so the foundation can be updated.  A few years ago there was a blog post of a guy that lifted a house.  I tried searching for it a few months ago and couldn't find it again.  

I have no idea of the cost, clearly into the 5 digit range.  I talked with a house-mover about 20 years ago about moving a house for Habitat for Humanity and the cost was in the $40K range.  You don't need to move it, but the estimate was sight unseen and 2 decades ago so YMMV.


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 27, 2016)

Thanks for the reply. 
I will give a lifting company a call on lunch. 
I'm hoping that it's not going to be an outrageous amount of money.
I figured the basement is half there. Why not get a whole one. 
I will get back to you guys with the quote.


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

I would check with the permit dept. first they may have reason for not doing and you would save time and money in the planning.


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## Sparky617 (Jul 27, 2016)

I would bet it was a money-saving move by the original builder.  Going down might hit additional ledge requiring blasting or heavy equipment.


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

There are lots of possibilities, if he has 5 ft visible and 3 ft frost protection. It could be just a matter of digging it out.


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## Snoonyb (Jul 27, 2016)

If he does the project, no matter what, he will need a structural engineer, as well as a house mover, and they can be found locally here;http://www.thebluebook.com


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## bud16415 (Jul 27, 2016)

Was the mini home a premanufactured home or something built off site like a modular home? The addition is built on the same foundation system and the same depth now as the main house?
What is in the addition? 

Do you have photos outside and from below the house?


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> If he does the project, no matter what, he will need a structural engineer, as well as a house mover, and they can be found locally here;http://www.thebluebook.com



Nobody is arguing that point but he may want to consider a few incidentals before he gets into the expense of an engineer.
And that is likely why he came here.
He also has to think about the hook ups for power, sewer, gas or oil and water.
New front and back porches and general condition of the house.
Where and how to fit interior stairs.
He has already started considering water proofing and drainage.
Where he will install windows and doors and finding bearing points that might be where he might want windows,
If the house is straight and level, they lift pretty good with out much damage but if it has to also be leveled he can expect cracks in the interior.

Depending on where he lives the house may have to be brought up to the newest hurricane or earthquake standards which could include questioning the size of the footing under the foundation.


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## beachguy005 (Jul 27, 2016)

I actually did that with a 31' x 40' ranch that was on 4 courses of block foundation.  Raised it up 7' and added new walls to create an at grade first level.  House movers are the people you want to talk to and get a couple of prices.  Mine was about 3k to lift and set it down on cribbing then relift and set on the new walls when they were installed.
The reality is for a lift it's all labor but depends on how easy it is to set up the lift from under the house.  Mine was an easy lift.  8am the crew arrived and by noon my house was 8' in the air and sitting on the cribbing.  I was even inside the house for the first 3' of the lift.


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## Snoonyb (Jul 27, 2016)

He's asking for an estimate, so he should visit the municipality, first, to find out if it can be done and what they will require of him.

If he does not have them, ask for the original set of building plans so that he can then obtain an estimate from a structural engineer for the engineering, to add the height to the existing foundation and an interior stairway.

Then visit a house mover and find their rates for the lift, reset, as well as the charges over time.

Unless he intends to occupy during the construction, it's basically sewer cap, service suspension and a temp. power pole.


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## Sparky617 (Jul 27, 2016)

Here is a FEMA document on lifting a house.  This is for flooding, but the principle is the same.

http://www.fema.gov/pdf/rebuild/mat/sec5.pdf

Here is an article from NJ about the cost of raising a house, this is all post-Sandy stuff.

http://njhouseraising.com/index.php/cost-to-raise-your-home

And some more information about raising a house.

https://www.nachi.org/house-raising.htm


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## slownsteady (Jul 27, 2016)

From what i have heard, the prices for lifting inflated greatly after Sandy (laws of supply & demand at work?) so any pricing quoted there may not apply in your location.


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## Sparky617 (Jul 27, 2016)

slownsteady said:


> From what i have heard, the prices for lifting inflated greatly after Sandy (laws of supply & demand at work?) so any pricing quoted there may not apply in your location.



In the NY/NJ Metro Area!  I'm shocked!   Their prices would probably be 50% higher than anywhere else outside of California too.


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

Sparky617 said:


> In the NY/NJ Metro Area!  I'm shocked!   Their prices would probably be 50% higher than anywhere else outside of California too.



I am always surprised when people don't understand, supply and demand.


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## Sparky617 (Jul 27, 2016)

nealtw said:


> I am always surprised when people don't understand, supply and demand.



Doing anything in NY/NJ is more expensive than anywhere else.  I can't imagine being a contractor in NYC.  The permitting, the traffic, the graft, the unions, the difficulty in getting materials to the job, parking your truck close to the job site, not getting your equipment stolen.


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

Sparky617 said:


> Doing anything in NY/NJ is more expensive than anywhere else.  I can't imagine being a contractor in NYC.  The permitting, the traffic, the graft, the unions, the difficulty in getting materials to the job, parking your truck close to the job site, not getting your equipment stolen.



That is the way it is in any big city and when something like Sandy happens, I am sure there were many from depressed areas that got there in a hurry. But  with all the extra expenses they can't do the work any cheaper. It looks bad when you look at what they charged at home, but at home they were likely working with a sharp pencil just to keep the books open.


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 27, 2016)

Hello everyone.
Thanks for all the input. 
I will check with the city about zoning issues or building issues. But there is a couple trailers on my st. That have basements so I'm sure it's good. 

Sparky617 yes there is a massive rock mountain behind my house so I would assume he ment to put a full basement and hit bedrock. That is why I am choosing to go up. 

The foundation has been built to match the addition on the house. 
The house is a pre fab home. I dont believe it was on wheels at any point. 
I will try and add some photos if I can figure it out.
There is no need for earthquake or hurricane spoofing, I live in Nova Scotia Canada.

http://m.imgur.com/account/hooberjabber/images/7tk8miP

http://m.imgur.com/account/hooberjabber/images/FJ1Ifef

http://m.imgur.com/account/hooberjabber/images/w1PotS8

http://m.imgur.com/account/hooberjabber/images/kkxodIL

http://m.imgur.com/account/hooberjabber/images/WVPnVVw

Hope this work.

Thanks again.


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

Your photos didn't work when replying find below *manage attachments*


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 27, 2016)

Yeah I just spent 20 minutes trying to upload pictures. 
I can't figure it out.


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

*Manage attachments
Choose file
select photo
upload file*

Unless you are on your phone then you need help from others.


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## slownsteady (Jul 27, 2016)

UlyssesSign said:


> Yeah I just spent 20 minutes trying to upload pictures.
> I can't figure it out.


PC or Mac or phone?


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 27, 2016)

Android phone. 
I noticed this site isn't really mobile friendly. 
I will try it on my Mac


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## Snoonyb (Jul 27, 2016)

"The foundation has been built to match the addition on the house."

Was the addition another modular structure or stick-built on site?

"The house is a pre fab home. I dont believe it was on wheels at any point."

Some municipalities have specific regulations governing Modular housing and at what point they are reclassified as a conventional residence, and need to conform to to those requirements.

One of which is when a buildings length, exceeds 3 times its width, there needs to be a shear wall.


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 27, 2016)

ok this is my other kick at the can, i am going to try and put some pictures up.

Snoonyb:

the addition is stick built. 
i don't really get what you are saying on the second question but my place is considered a bungalow. 

http://imgur.com/7tk8miP

http://imgur.com/FJ1Ifef

http://imgur.com/w1PotS8

http://imgur.com/kkxodIL

http://imgur.com/WVPnVVw

there if that dosent work i don't know what to do.


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## nealtw (Jul 27, 2016)

That looks straight forward, I would talk to the city, you may not need the engineer.


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## Snoonyb (Jul 27, 2016)

Thanks.

Modular building are all engineered and before one can be placed there is a whole booklet of information that must be submitted for approval.

Stick built generally do not require an engineer, unless there are inordinately large openings, 2nd floors or large clear spaces.

However, when a modular structure is severely modified, the original engineered integrity becomes compromised, which can result in the structure being reclassified.

Always ask.It doesn't hurt to know your limits.


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## inspectorD (Jul 27, 2016)

Sparky617 said:


> Doing anything in NY/NJ is more expensive than anywhere else.  I can't imagine being a contractor in NYC.  The permitting, the traffic, the graft, the unions, the difficulty in getting materials to the job, parking your truck close to the job site, not getting your equipment stolen.



Yup...been there..TSHIRT  was even taken...it is a different world.


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 28, 2016)

Snoonyb :
So do I go to the city for the information?

I called one comoany about lifting the house, and we are at $8000 to lift it up and set it back down on the higher foundation, this as a rough estimate and he said it could be more or less but not by much. 

Second company I called said under $10,000 but he would have to come look.  And he would be able to put the floor in as well for somewhere under $15,000

I am wanting to do this because it seems like a pretty cheep way to add value to my place. 

If this is not something that is going to increase the value of my home much then I may not do it. 
Any thoughts?


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## Snoonyb (Jul 28, 2016)

UlyssesSign said:


> Snoonyb :
> So do I go to the city for the information?



That would be my 1st stop and don't arbitrarily be put off by what they may require of you.As a for instance, they may require a plot plan, which is a birds eye view of your dwelling, located on your property, correctly dimensioned, before they can advise you.

A straight edge, an 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper, a pencil and a tape measure. 



UlyssesSign said:


> I called one comoany about lifting the house, and we are at $8000 to lift it up and set it back down on the higher foundation, this as a rough estimate and he said it could be more or less but not by much.
> 
> Second company I called said under $10,000 but he would have to come look.  And he would be able to put the floor in as well for somewhere under $15,000



The logical tact would be to visit the property, to ascertain access to both the original under floor space, as well as the addition and if the the access is easily transitioned.



UlyssesSign said:


> I am wanting to do this because it seems like a pretty cheep way to add value to my place.
> 
> If this is not something that is going to increase the value of my home much then I may not do it.
> Any thoughts?



I would actually lift one course higher than 3', because the slab is going to reduce the head clearance and factor into any proposed ceiling finish, let alone doubling your occupied living space.

There is also the exterior architectural aesthetics as compared to the real comps of the area.

You have a several course meal, on your plate.


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 28, 2016)

As for the aesthetics, I am a little worried about how going to look. 
I'm going to have to raise both decks but that's fine. 
I am going to try and see if anyone could possibly photo shop it. Maybe get some idea of what it will look like.

I told the cheaper guy that if he was in porters lake at any point to come by. I don't think he is local so I'd rather not make him drive all the way out just to look at it. I'm sure I am aways off from. Breaking sky. 

As for lifting higher, I wasn't set on my measurements so what ever night gives me adequate room under the house. 

I am thinking more for resale but also it's always in the back of my mind that the pipes are going to freeze. 
They are double insulated but it still get cold down there. 
So the foundation would be a great piece of mind. 

I guess I will be stopping by the city


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## Sparky617 (Jul 28, 2016)

Keep in mind below grade space isn't valued as high as above ground space.  If you can make it a walk out on one side that would be a big plus.  You might want to use fill on the front side to bring the grade up closer to the first floor after you lift it.

If you've ever watched Texas Move and Flip on HGTV they move all kinds of houses on that show.  Some they have to saw in half to move them down the road.  Yours has the advantage that it once was delivered to your property as one unit so the main house should be easy to lift.  The addition makes it a little more complicated.


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## nealtw (Jul 28, 2016)

If you know who built the house, you might contact them, they may have suggestion on how to side it or even show you what it might look like.

House movers will not have their own concrete placers, they just hire another contractor. Contact your local ready mix company for a list of local placers.


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## beachguy005 (Jul 28, 2016)

The problem I might have is the house being so narrow.  15' wide two story house is going to be maybe 20' tall.  The end view of the house is going to look like a silo.
Before I did mine I did my own to scale sketches to get a good idea of perspective.


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## Snoonyb (Jul 28, 2016)

"I told the cheaper guy that if he was in porters lake at any point to come by. I don't think he is local so I'd rather not make him drive all the way out just to look at it. I'm sure I am aways off from. Breaking sky."

You have that option at present, however, it's a buyers market, and, open bid.

You mention that the one HM would also pour the floor. Who will be responsible for the additional masonry height extension, or did that come up, in the conversation.

Consider obtaining separate bids for specific trades.

Remember, it's your time, and money. 

"As for lifting higher, I wasn't set on my measurements so what ever night gives me adequate room under the house. 

I am thinking more for resale but also it's always in the back of my mind that the pipes are going to freeze. 
They are double insulated but it still get cold down there. 
So the foundation would be a great piece of mind."

Is it your intension to access the new space from inside the dwelling, to convert it to habitable space, with a walk-out? Where is your comfort heat plant now, and/or your laundry facility?

Relocating and upgrading the comfort heat plant, depending upon how the existing is run can be relatively simple.


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## nealtw (Jul 28, 2016)

I am sure the extra height could be built out of wood and standard finished height would be 100 1/4" above the footing.


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 28, 2016)

My plan was.to build a 2x6 ponywall. To take up the extra room.

My plan is to put the stairs in the loft area. There will be alot of remodeling to make the house flow better once the basement is in. 

My heat source is a heat Pump in the middle of the house and I plan on putting a wood stove right beside it. A small smoke Regen stove, Once the basement is in I plan on moving it down stairs. Washer and dryer will likely move down there as well. 

Sorry about the Grammer. It's a pain on the phone.


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## UlyssesSign (Jul 28, 2016)

beachguy005 said:


> The problem I might have is the house being so narrow.  15' wide two story house is going to be maybe 20' tall.  The end view of the house is going to look like a silo.
> Before I did mine I did my own to scale sketches to get a good idea of perspective.



So have you done this type of work to your house?  Is your foundation mostly above or bellow?


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## beachguy005 (Jul 28, 2016)

UlyssesSign said:


> So have you done this type of work to your house?  Is your foundation mostly above or bellow?



Yes, as I noted in an earlier post.  I built 6.5' tall walls in sections that I could handle myself.  Set the house back down on them and ended up with a new 8' plus ceiling height first floor walk out. 
I added fill in the crawl space. Insulated and put down hydronic pex tubing and had a slab poured over it.  It's a lot of work. 
I kept the main living area as the second floor because it gave me ocean views.


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## Snoonyb (Jul 28, 2016)

UlyssesSign said:


> My plan was.to build a 2x6 ponywall. To take up the extra room.



In your discussion with the building department, be sure and mention this, because there will be very specific attachment as well as shear details.



UlyssesSign said:


> My heat source is a heat Pump in the middle of the house and I plan on putting a wood stove right beside it. A small smoke Regen stove, Once the basement is in I plan on moving it down stairs. Washer and dryer will likely move down there as well.



You'll need to plan for an evacuation system before the slab is poured. 



UlyssesSign said:


> Sorry about the Grammer. It's a pain on the phone.



We're not going anywhere, take your time.


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