# Powder room upgrade plan, DIY with pics



## danie (Jan 31, 2018)

This is what I am starting with and the inspiration for the change with some variations  Room is 6 feet long and 30 inch wode, on picture it is compressed by the lens.

I have already removed the cabinetry and toilet, patched and sanded the walls, a friend helped me and installed a new vent fan and a LED pocket light above the toilet to eventually light up the shelves I planned there.I also made a between the studs shelf off the side of the future sink shelf and another nook for the toilet paper. Coming up is a recessed fan heater and the wood working for the two shelves. 

I bought a funky sink from Ikea and a fancy faucet, imagine that, I am feeling good about faucetry no, is that even a word!


I am debating the flooring, there is some tile there and I dofeel like just laying some click vinyl on top, or maybe retile, not certain.

Definitely up for any suggesions, and new ideas but only before it's done ha!


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## zannej (Jan 31, 2018)

If you can afford vinyl plank, it might be worth it. But make sure you get the kind that is plastic all the way through and does not have cork or mdf. With tile you can have problems with the grout allowing moisture in. Also, vinyl feels warmer than tile (unless you get heated underlay).

For the vanity, have you considered a hidden toekick storage drawer?

I like that you have between-the-studs storage.

Do you have any pictures of what it currently looks like? I'd love to see them.


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## danie (Jan 31, 2018)

Door will be changed, I am debating between a simple shaker frame pre hung and primed and a multi panel one that everyone does these days. I may want to make a mock waisncotting in the entrance and sometimes less ismore, so I may stick to a plain large square flat frame on a regular slab door.

I also have a movement detector light in there ;-)


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## nealtw (Feb 1, 2018)

You have really small pictures.:hide:


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

I barely figured how to post them haha now resizing... ill try the 4x8 view


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)




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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

bear with me, there is still tomorrow !


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)




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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)




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## nealtw (Feb 1, 2018)

Boy do you ever have big pictures.:thbup:


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

:rofl::agree:


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## nealtw (Feb 1, 2018)

danie said:


> :rofl::agree:


 There fine.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 1, 2018)

danie said:


> View attachment 18682
> 
> 
> View attachment 18683
> ...



Fun, so far.

In photo #3 where will the romex coming out of the base of the wall terminate?

Had you planned to change the angle stops to 1/4 turn and the trap to slip joint, instead of compression?

Have you used motion detectors switches before, because mascara squiggled down a cheek is frustrating.

The multi-panel doors can be ordered, or self altered, to have the panels on one side and slab on the other, as an architectural element.


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

1- Googled Romex, haha learning a new language as well as repairs..

My original plan was to have a classic  baseboard heater under the lowest shelf of the new sink set up. It would not be seen easily and would heat the feet which would be nicer than the original set up with the baseboard next to the ankles of the toilet user :-() 
Then I worried that this would mean a baseboard under the sink....maybe not good idea ? although not certain but my gut feeling is not great haha
So now I am thinking of a between the studs heating fan.

2- Had you planned to change the angle stops to 1/4 turn and the trap to slip joint, instead of compression? So sorry but my repair language skills have got to this level and this reads like a profound Ikea instructable that Ij  ust don't get....can you please rephrase for me ... 

3- It ismy first time with a movement detector light, indeedI can imagine my guests will be scratching their heads when the light suddenly goes out mid-stream lol but then scratching their head will solve the problem...I can totally see a drinking game coming out ofthis set up, maybe I should write the rules of it in glow in the dark paint in there hahaha

4- Can you show me an example of the variant door thatmust be nice. Although the area is annoying with 3 doors in a 9 sq foot space. Entrance, powder room and a bifold for the closet.

Thanks for commenting


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## Snoonyb (Feb 1, 2018)

danie said:


> 1- Googled Romex, haha learning a new language as well as repairs..



Good deal, give you a heads up to the language of the trades.



danie said:


> My original plan was to have a classic  baseboard heater under the lowest shelf of the new sink set up. It would not be seen easily and would heat the feet which would be nicer than the original set up with the baseboard next to the ankles of the toilet user :-()
> Then I worried that this would mean a baseboard under the sink....maybe not good idea ? although not certain but my gut feeling is not great haha
> So now I am thinking of a between the studs heating fan.



It would also be a good Idea to power it from a GFCI/AFCI breaker.



danie said:


> 2- Had you planned to change the angle stops to 1/4 turn and the trap to slip joint, instead of compression? So sorry but my repair language skills have got to this level and this reads like a profound Ikea instructable that Ij  ust don't get....can you please rephrase for me ...



Ikea is frankly, beneath my dignity but here is a link to a variety of 1/4 turn, ball valve angle stops. Your appear to be compression and may only need to be changed out, keeping in mind the method you are using to connect to the new faucet; https://www.brasscraft.com/products/water-supplies/water-stops/14-turn-stops/, the specific benefit is the ball valve and it's longevity.

Here is and example of the 2 most popular slip joint traps, (I use in my practice);
https://www.keeneymfg.com/installation_instructions/772-en-PP66-1B They are also available in ABS, which is black in color.



danie said:


> 3- It ismy first time with a movement detector light, indeedI can imagine my guests will be scratching their heads when the light suddenly goes out mid-stream lol but then scratching their head will solve the problem...I can totally see a drinking game coming out ofthis set up, maybe I should write the rules of it in glow in the dark paint in there hahaha



Or an automatic "fooled you" announcement.



danie said:


> 4- Can you show me an example of the variant door thatmust be nice. Although the area is annoying with 3 doors in a 9 sq foot space. Entrance, powder room and a bifold for the closet.



That I do not have, just past experience.


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

Anxiety level just amped. haha. I am so out of my depth it'S not even funny!

Ok todays I shall: sand, prime ceiling walls and the plywood inserts for the between studs storage areas. then I will attack all these one by one ha !


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## zannej (Feb 1, 2018)

Angle stop valve = a shut off valve that goes at an angle instead of straight.
Ball valve = a one-way valve that is opened and closed by pressure on a ball that fits into a cup-shaped opening.

You might want to see the glossary of plumbing terms on the plumbing forum that is a sister forum to this one.

What is your budget for the bathroom? Have you considered in-floor heating? Or having a vent/fan light in the ceiling that has a heater? My bathrooms all had Broan vent-a-lite heaters. Required 3 switches. They finally died after like 40 years, but when they worked, they kept the bathroom nice and warm. But, you should probably read up on heating options for bathrooms before you make a final decision. Houzz sometimes has some interesting ideas.


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

I wanted to keep it low budget. So I am not adding floor heating but was considering the use of a recessed fan in wall. The ceiling is pretty used up by now with a humidity vent fan, a led can and the light socket in the mirror area.

The most cost efficient was the standard baseboard but like mentioned under sink it's iffy...lol


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## zannej (Feb 1, 2018)

danie said:


> I wanted to keep it low budget. So I am not adding floor heating but was considering the use of a recessed fan in wall. The ceiling is pretty used up by now with a humidity vent fan, a led can and the light socket in the mirror area.
> 
> The most cost efficient was the standard baseboard but like mentioned under sink it's iffy...lol



What are your concerns with having it under the sink? Something catching fire? Not pushing the heat far enough?
Maybe you could bump it forward under the vanity so it is not against the wall and is closer to feet (but not too close)?

Do you still have a vent/fan in the bathroom to help get rid of the moisture?


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

Ah yes I do have a good strong new fan vent. I was Warford putting an electric under a sink was not a good idea. But then again there will be shelves above etc


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## nealtw (Feb 1, 2018)

danie said:


> Ah yes I do have a good strong new fan vent. I was Warford putting an electric under a sink was not a good idea. But then again there will be shelves above etc


If you plan on tile I would look at in floor heat.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 1, 2018)

zannej said:


> Angle stop valve = a shut off valve that goes at an angle instead of straight.
> Ball valve = a one-way valve that is opened and closed by pressure on a ball that fits into a cup-shaped opening.



Have a look at the link I included; https://www.brasscraft.com/products/...14-turn-stops/

It shows both straight and angled devices under the title of "Angle Stops".

All of the 1/4 turn have a ball valve as their control because of the longevity. They are not 2 separate devices.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 1, 2018)

Before you complete the wall repair investigate the floor heat because it should be on a separate circuit.


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## danie (Feb 1, 2018)

I plan on laying vinyl click flooring over the existing tile. I have removed the 1/2 tiles running up the wall as baseboards, but the remaining tile is in place still. I am worried the floor heating would be rather expensive. It is only 30 nches by 6 feet but adding the electricals worries me as I have no electrical skills.


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## nealtw (Feb 1, 2018)

The size is right for the smallest one and I have just hooked the small one with the lights. But you wouldn't do it with that floor I think.


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## danie (Feb 2, 2018)

Temporary hold being placed on bathroom until I figure plumbing... new learning need to go home depot or something and ask lots of details. 

For now I have decided to concentrate  the next few days on what I can do and that means leaving the bathroom project aside for a bit as there ismuch to learn there. I will start a new thread for the other ongoing project, the bedroom ...


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## Snoonyb (Feb 2, 2018)

danie said:


> Temporary hold being placed on bathroom until I figure plumbing... new learning need to go home depot or something and ask lots of details.
> 
> For now I have decided to concentrate  the next few days on what I can do and that means leaving the bathroom project aside for a bit as there ismuch to learn there. I will start a new thread for the other ongoing project, the bedroom ...



Something you'll find at the big boxes, is that certain times and days you can actually come across a "knowledgeable" tradesman, instead of a stand-in, occupying space.


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## bud16415 (Feb 2, 2018)

Snoonyb said:


> Something you'll find at the big boxes, is that certain times and days you can actually come across a "knowledgeable" tradesman, instead of a stand-in, occupying space.



So true. When I was redoing this whole place in PEX I ran into a retired plumber working at HD named Bo. The guy was amazing and saved me so much money suggesting simpler ways to do things than I was thinking along with saving me hours of searching the store. I actually call there now and ask if and when Bo will be in. 

By the time the house was done and the day I was waiting in the parking lot when he arrived to work for him, I think he started hating me a bit. But we invited him over for dinner and all was good.  

We also found one kitchen designer that owned a kitchen bath business for many years and retired. He was also amazing to work with. The other 95% of the people there dont bother asking them questions. Finding the right ones is an art.


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## danie (Feb 3, 2018)

Seriously this is crazy serendipity. I was at home depot for 3 hours with an amazing guy that held me out of my flooring misery. He also came from industry and knew do much. I ended up buying laminate but a rather nice one for my bedroom and den on the upper floor. I am so happy he took the time and energy and saved me over 1000 dollars and weeks of agonising back breaking work.

From the horse's mouth... Whatever that expression can't from lol


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## zannej (Feb 3, 2018)

Keep in mind that laminate flooring can be ruined very easily by water/moisture. One little spill that isn't cleaned up immediately and your floors can be messed up.

Editing to add that on some laminate, even if you clean it up right away, it can still be messed up. I have a friend who said her daughter went to bring her a bowl of soup (I think the kid is about 3 or 4) and she tripped and spilled the soup on the laminate. My friend cleaned it up asap, but the floor had already started bubbling up and the affected boards were ruined.

Also, sometimes people at HD and Lowes will claim to have expertise and not know WTF they are talking about, but they may sound like they do.


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## slownsteady (Feb 4, 2018)

Laminate in the bedroom and den is okay, but not in the kitchen or bath. Stick to vinyl planks in there. If you lay the vinyl over the old tile, fill in the grout lines before you lay the new floor. you want a smooth and level finish.


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## danie (Feb 4, 2018)

Finally opted to remove all previous parquet floor. The one upstairs if very creaky and sound like popping bubbles when I walk on it with a plank of laminate on top ... Likely the over dried glue.

So far tests i did for removal showed that  there is minimal damage to the particle board underlay.

Downstairs the parquet barely sticks to the cement floor (heated garage under cement) and I guess I'll have to pull the ceramics in the kitchen, order room and entrance... I'll forget the vinyl and learn to tile &#55357;&#56834;

Finally big news also from home depot. I walked right into a kitchen liquidation. Some overstock found on the warehouse going at 75 % off. So I got a brand new kitchen for 500 dollars yippee


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## danie (Feb 5, 2018)

I have a question about tiling the floor; My 1st floor is a concrete slab above a heated garage. I am planning to use a pre lined floating laminate all over but tiling the powder room (sink and toilet). Should I tile directly on the concrete in there or should I add something on top of concrete for either or both floor coverings?

TIA


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## Snoonyb (Feb 5, 2018)

danie said:


> I have a question about tiling the floor; My 1st floor is a concrete slab above a heated garage. I am planning to use a pre lined floating laminate all over but tiling the powder room (sink and toilet). Should I tile directly on the concrete in there or should I add something on top of concrete for either or both floor coverings?
> 
> TIA



Just thinset for the tile.


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## danie (Feb 8, 2018)

Ok old thin set removed...ouch what a job !

Now getting ready to lay tiles, what a learning curve. I am so anxious about this but I got to bite the bullet. Trying to figure out how to tile under toilet flange, don't want to remove it because it is secure and I am not sure I will be able to secure it as solidly as it was.


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## oldognewtrick (Feb 8, 2018)

Remove the toilet, its easier than trying to cut around it and you'll have a much better install. 2 bolts.


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## nealtw (Feb 8, 2018)

oldognewtrick said:


> Remove the toilet, its easier than trying to cut around it and you'll have a much better install. 2 bolts.


Toilet flange 

Just tile around it and there is a spacer you put on top of the flange to bring it up to height.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 8, 2018)

These are available from both HD & LOWES;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E83NY...t=&hvlocphy=9020931&hvtargid=pla-314836180923


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## zannej (Feb 9, 2018)

Wow, sounds like you're making great progress. I have parquet flooring in my house so I know all about the dried glue and popping. If you haven't tossed the ones you removed-- I recommend keeping a few for a future project and/or donating the intact/good ones to a place like Habitat for Humanity ReStore. That way they can be repurposed. 

I hope it's ok to mention this link here, but here is a forum specifically for tiling called johnbridge. They have some pretty good tutorials over there. I believe John likes to use an orange honeycomb type underlayment called Schluter Ditra that goes under the thinset and makes tiles less likely to move/crack due to changes in temperature underneath.

If you will be re-installing the toilet yourself, make sure the bolts stay still when you go to put it down. If they don't, you can use washers on the bolts to make them stay still (had to do this for a friend's toilet). If it's the same toilet that had a wax ring on it before, make sure you clean it off very thoroughly before putting on a new wax ring. Dirty wax residue won't seal with new wax very well. If the temperature is cold when installing, use a hair dryer on lowest setting to just warm up the wax a tiny bit (not melting or anything). That way the wax will be more malleable/less brittle when you install the toilet.


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## danie (Feb 9, 2018)

Flange spacersare the new black! Thank u so much


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## danie (Feb 10, 2018)

I am reading all your comments and followingall the informative leads. It has been incredibky useful and I thank you so much. I am unable to reply individually, as my time is so compressed. Please accept my sincere Thank yous. I am off to watch the tiling videos and I am wishing I could have place under tile heating...


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## zannej (Feb 11, 2018)

I'm glad it's been helpful. No worries on the lack of time for individual responses. Hopefully everything will turn out well. If you find time, I would love to see updates on the progress.


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## danie (Feb 11, 2018)

Here preparing my first ever tiling Job. Of course it's a diagonal lay out in a room narrower than 2 tiles...


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## danie (Feb 11, 2018)

I'm not sure that worked https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuoJzZ7AFw58ghKKFoEszn4YbOes


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## zannej (Feb 12, 2018)

danie said:


> I'm not sure that worked https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuoJzZ7AFw58ghKKFoEszn4YbOes


Hmm.. I tried to view the onedrive thing and it said "Something went wrong".
If you have the image on your computer you can click Manage Attachments and it will let you upload it or if you have it online with the .jpg, .gif, or .png suffix, you should be able to click the option to post from link as an attachment.


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## danie (Feb 12, 2018)

Final layout, ready to install, had to exchange tile that were from different batches and uneven on size and thickness. Now I am ready to install and found out last minute (after my mortar was mixed) that the tile cutter I bought is too short to cut diagonals on my 12x12 tiles. Thin setis covered in plastic tightly, I will to go HD tomorrow to get a proper sized cutter....oh the adventires haha!


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## nealtw (Feb 13, 2018)

danie said:


> View attachment 18812
> 
> Final layout, ready to install, had to exchange tile that were from different batches and uneven on size and thickness. Now I am ready to install and found out last minute (after my mortar was mixed) that the tile cutter I bought is too short to cut diagonals on my 12x12 tiles. Thin setis covered in plastic tightly, I will to go HD tomorrow to get a proper sized cutter....oh the adventires haha!


move it a little so the intersection of the for  tile is dead center of the toilet flange. Makes for easier cutting of the flange cuts.


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## danie (Feb 13, 2018)

do I cut straight with room interior and add a marble sill or do I tile right to half way and add a T joint to transition to flooring on other side (laminate) 

It is a powder room mot a full bath...


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## nealtw (Feb 13, 2018)

There is no wrong. dealers choice. But laminate needs room to expand and contract. I prefer the T joint with the vinyl cover.


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## danie (Feb 13, 2018)

ok also another question. I have precut and laid out my little room. everything fits perfectly, but....when I remove and reistall I am afraid it will not fit the same again at the very entrance edge... should I tile the exit first to make sure it is straight and then tile inwards ? darn I am anxious haahaha


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## danie (Feb 13, 2018)

and thank you neal


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## nealtw (Feb 13, 2018)

danie said:


> ok also another question. I have precut and laid out my little room. everything fits perfectly, but....when I remove and reistall I am afraid it will not fit the same again at the very entrance edge... should I tile the exit first to make sure it is straight and then tile inwards ? darn I am anxious haahaha


 
I would take out tile on the one side of the bathroom Then mark the zig zag line right down the middle of the room. Then you can start at that line near the toilet work your way into the corners then out and have a reference all the way.


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## danie (Feb 13, 2018)

I decided to cut tiles to insert a door sill, since the door frame is not yet installed I was worried that I'd be stuck with the frame resting on some tiles if I did not cute them enough or the opposite if I cut too much. I have not yet bough the door and my framing here is in 2x3 i figured I'd do doors at the end of flooring, now if I don't lay tiles here I might go batty, 

I am tempted to buy the door now, but they don't come custom at HD in that narrow version and pre-hung... oh the possibilities lol


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## zannej (Feb 13, 2018)

danie said:


> View attachment 18821
> 
> 
> View attachment 18822
> ...


The tiles look good! I think having them at an angle like that makes the floor look more interesting and great job on the cuts-- that edge near the doorway is very smooth.

How narrow is the doorway? Are you looking for hollow core or solid core doors and do you have any particular color or style in mind?
As you're facing the bathroom from the outside, what side will the hinges be on? And will it swing in to the bathroom or out away from the bathroom?


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## danie (Feb 13, 2018)

The door way is 26 1/4 on rough and 3 5/8 thick with gyprock on both sides. 

t was thinking to use a shaker 5 panel, painted white or natural wood stained a light neutral brown. I am still not sure bout my future baseboards but likely 7 inches / pine flats and door frame to create a thicker look. I am going overall for a modern shaker with urban post industrial accents. 

Thank you for liking my work. I am thinking now to use a metal trim J to see a neat line ontile edges at door frame ?


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## danie (Feb 13, 2018)

oh and btw I also like craftman and 4 panels. there are so many choices lol


also i will be installing laminate in the kitchen and under the new cabinets. I found some instructions to allow for expansion of floor but I do not quite understand what is meant. Here it i: 

cabinet install over laminate flooring

Ive done several kitchens where I installed the cabs. after the floor. Some of these even had islandswith plumbing. What I do I do is locate my toe kicks, so I can use my hole saw to cut a 1" diameter hole. Save the piece and then cut another hole 1 1/2" dia. Next, I use cardboard or some other thin shim to raise the height ever so slightly, and screw down 1" dia. piece. Now, you can screw your toe kicks to the floor and there is the required 1/4" gap for expansion. Cabinets need that shimming so theres no gap but floor can move. Has worked great.
Good luck
Einar


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## zannej (Feb 14, 2018)

Hmm.. I think the closest size to the 26.5" is a 24" door. It's small, but manageable. I have a couple of those in my house. If you use a metal channel, make sure it is water/rust resistant.

Looking at the layout again, I realize there would not be a way for the door to swing in to the bathroom bc it would hit the toilet. So, it will have to swing out. When facing the door from the outside of the bathroom, will you have the knob on the right or the left?

If it's on the left if will be a left-hand swing. If the other way it will be right-hand. I'm sort of guessing that it will be on the left because the first thing you would see is the sink instead of the toilet and for some reason, it's not "cool" for the toilet to be the first thing visible when entering a bathroom.

I'm not sure what shaker style is. Something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Builder...gle-Prehung-Interior-Door-HDCP6620R/202523938
(Assuming your door height is 80"-- should measure that to be certain).

Or this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonit...-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-10584/202505856

Or solid core version: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonit...-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-49157/202872641

I'm no flooring expert, but I wouldn't advise using laminate in a kitchen. It doesn't handle moisture/spills very well. There are probably some that are better than others at resisting water, but for some of them, one little spill and the floor bubbles up. Hot water splashing out of the sink, spilled pot of water/sauce, or leak from under the sink could spell disaster. A friend of mine has laminate throughout her house. Her kid (I think she's 3 or 4) was trying to bring a bowl of soup to her bc she knew she wasn't feeling well. Lost her balance, fell, and spilled it all over the floor. My friend cleaned it up as quickly as she could, but the damage was already done.

Vinyl plank is more expensive, but if you get the kind with plastic/waterproof core and stay away from cork underlayment, it can be pretty good. I see it used in restaurants and department stores now. You can get the click-lock kind that is easier to install. But, it's ultimately up to you.


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## danie (Feb 14, 2018)

Double post sorry


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## danie (Feb 14, 2018)

Would the 26.25 rough would work with a 3/4 inch frame.. Yes the hinges will be on the right and door opening out.

For the kitchen I wanted a continuous floor all over since it's open space. I am rethinking ... Or I could i keep some flooring to repair in case of trouble?

Matching exact height of laminate will be difficult. With other materials and might look less... Slick?


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## danie (Feb 14, 2018)

I really like the last 2 doors there. I like solid it feels more luxurious if weight is not a problem.


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## zannej (Feb 14, 2018)

The prehung door is designed to fit in to a 26" rough opening. You would use shims for the difference between the opening and the frame. The solid core weighs 90lbs and is obviously more expensive (nearly $57 difference). Hollow core is half the weight at 45lbs. So, it depends on how much you can lift and how much you want to pay. I will recommend Schlage brand door handles. They are pricey but they have a lifetime warranty & are very durable. You may also want to look in to quick door hanging kits that make it easier to install.
Neal knows a bit about doors and door installation so he can give tips (if you've never installed one before). He's been giving me advice because I'm going to be installing doors (hopefully soon).

For the flooring issue, if you want laminate in the rest of the home, you can check out the total thickness/height of the flooring products and compare. IMO, it's ok to have a transition from kitchen to rest of house, but that's just me. They have a variety of vinyl plank and LVT (luxury vinyl tile) options that look like wood or ceramic tile, but don't have the same problems. I recommend popping in to our sister site http://www.flooringforum.com/forum/ for more detail on flooring. There are quite a few members here that also post over there and the people are friendly. They are helping me plan for my flooring renovations.

On a side note, I'm interested in how your vanity/sink will look when it's done. I love seeing people's projects. Looks like it will be a vessel sink. For cabinets, one suggestion: Toekick storage drawer. You can put bathroom scale or small items in the drawer hidden away.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 14, 2018)

Before you order this door assembly, make sure you can get the jamb resized for your narrower wall thickness, because it comes with a 4-9/16" jamb.

If not, you can trim the jamb on site to fit your wall thickness, you just need a saw.

Because the door will be a swing-out, you need to to keep the level of the hall floor in mind, before you cut the jamb to length.


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## danie (Feb 14, 2018)

Ok after measuring my rough height is 82 on my door... Weird


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## Snoonyb (Feb 14, 2018)

That's pretty much standard framing height, the door is 80", 1/8" space, 3/4" jamb header and an allowance for the flooring.

The casing will hide the space.


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## danie (Feb 14, 2018)

Great information thanks, I  am reconsireding the kitchen flooring. Also notable I have laid my forst tile job ever: 2 times. I noticed, after the job was done, that the tiles seems to be a little uneven. Pressing a little on one, I ksaw it was moving a little too much on the opposite dies...pulled it off and it was not adhered at all. Thin set seemed too stiff. So I pulled most all tiles out, re mixed a new batch of thin set, scraped the not yet dry mortar. Re-tiled.

Valentine's day lol I wouldn'T want it any other way haha ok maybe ;-)

that toe kick hide out is awesome. that is some serious skills.


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## zannej (Feb 15, 2018)

danie said:


> Great information thanks, I  am reconsireding the kitchen flooring. Also notable I have laid my forst tile job ever: 2 times. I noticed, after the job was done, that the tiles seems to be a little uneven. Pressing a little on one, I ksaw it was moving a little too much on the opposite dies...pulled it off and it was not adhered at all. Thin set seemed too stiff. So I pulled most all tiles out, re mixed a new batch of thin set, scraped the not yet dry mortar. Re-tiled.
> 
> Valentine's day lol I wouldn'T want it any other way haha ok maybe ;-)
> 
> that toe kick hide out is awesome. that is some serious skills.



The 82" doorway allows you to raise the door up a little so the door will not scrape the floor when it swings. Basically, you figure out what the finished floor height will be for the flooring in the hallway or area where the door swings and you want the bottom of the door to be a little higher than that in case of uneven floor. 

I hope the tiles are all sticking well now.
The toekick storage thing is not too difficult to do from what I've read. It's basically making a small drawer, but since it is near the floor you'll have to make sure it can pull out smoothly without scraping the floor, so it will not be quite flush with the floor.

Another thing I thought of, when you install your toilet, make sure you use 100% silicone caulk and only put the caulk around the front and the sides. Leave the back uncaulked in case the wax seal leaks. That way, you will see the water and know it needs to be replaced instead of water being trapped under the toilet and ruining the floor.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 15, 2018)

Silicone works best, 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.

Use polyseamseal.


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## danie (Feb 16, 2018)

They are good YA yippe yay...tiles are solid, floor feels solid, lines are straight,,,,,horray! Now grouting test


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## danie (Feb 17, 2018)

ok it is small potatoes to seasonned renovators, but I am so happy to have done and completed my forst full tiling job. It's nt perfect and I do see the slight discrpencies in the lines between tiles. 

I did have them laid perfectly but had to pull them because the cement was too stiff and they were not adhering. Repostioning them after, with the inability to reach far because I could not lean on the other tiles, i was not able to use the spacers to my convenience. i think I can live with it , though Ill see better when dry


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## bud16415 (Feb 17, 2018)

Looks Good :thbup:


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## danie (Feb 17, 2018)

thanks there bud


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## zannej (Feb 19, 2018)

Looks good to me! Turned out far better than my attempt at self-leveling flooring. LOL.

I'm looking forward to seeing more progress. Are you going to install baseboards?


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## danie (Feb 19, 2018)

I should compete this is about 48 hours. Baseboards will be similar colored wood. Will do reveal pictures


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## slownsteady (Feb 20, 2018)

Snoonyb said:


> Silicone works best, 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.
> 
> Use polyseamseal.


Funny but, the hole seems to get deeper every time you repeat this little ditty. But i don't think you've ever explained why you feel that way.


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## Snoonyb (Feb 20, 2018)

slownsteady said:


> Funny but, the hole seems to get deeper every time you repeat this little ditty. But i don't think you've ever explained why you feel that way.



It's been the same hole, the same depth, for 40yrs.

The proof is in the pudding.


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## nealtw (Feb 20, 2018)

Snoonyb said:


> It's been the same hole, the same depth, for 40yrs.
> 
> The proof is in the pudding.


What will they think in 1000 years when they dig that up.:trophy:


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## Snoonyb (Feb 20, 2018)

Someone was intuitive.


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## slownsteady (Feb 21, 2018)

Well that explains it; you've been using pudding instead of silicone all this time! :rofl:


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## zannej (Mar 9, 2018)

Good point. There are heaters that are rated for bathrooms/wet areas, but they might be pricey. As for the vent fan, the good thing about a bathroom that small is that you don't need high cfm. Too bad the vent-light-heaters are not as popular these days. I have them in all of the bathrooms in my house but the motors died after 30+ years (possibly longer). They were nice when they worked though.


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