# Cutting stone pavers



## InTooDeep (Sep 15, 2014)

Started a new project this weekend putting in a brick border around my driveway. At the bottom of my driveway it curves outward so I need to cut the 12x12x2 paver stones to match the driveway's shape. See pic.

What's the best way to do this? I'd prefer not buying another tool, but don't mind picking up a blade for something I have. 
Which is: reciprocating, mitre, jig, circular saw, + drill.


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## stadry (Sep 15, 2014)

we use a dri-diamond blades on our milwaukee gear-drive saws,,, we cut wet OR dry - they cut deep enough for conc pavers,,, OR use a conc blade blade on a 4" grinder which cuts 1" deep,,, IF you don't want more tools, what kind of man ARE you ? ? ?


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## beachguy005 (Sep 15, 2014)

You can pick up an angle grinder at Harbor Freight for short money.  Frankly, it was one of the best purchases I made to use around the house.  Diamond blade for tile or stone, metal blades and grinding wheels makes it real handy.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2014)

I have a 12 dollar Harbor freight angle grinder in one of my work trucks that has out lasted several Dewalt and Porter Cable grinders. My Makita has outlasted them all.


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## InTooDeep (Sep 15, 2014)

stadry said:


> IF you don't want more tools, what kind of man ARE you ? ? ?



Lol. Well now I have to get an angle grinder. 

Unfortunately harbor freight doesn't have stores in Canada. But I'll grab one at home depot.

Thanks for the help.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2014)

Even the cheap ones will last you a bit. I haven't found any of the more expensive to last longer and we abuse the heck out of them.


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## nealtw (Sep 15, 2014)

I would use a skilll saw and yes with just a little practise curves are easy.


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## bud16415 (Sep 15, 2014)

Just because no one suggested it. How about going to the rental center and see what a proper saw would cost to rent. 


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair


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## nealtw (Sep 15, 2014)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQPCX-92qmk[/ame]

Read the last reply here
http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/...echniques/cutting-concrete-pavers-best-method


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2014)

An angle grinder will be best for curved cuts.


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## nealtw (Sep 15, 2014)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnDKY-JRrD8[/ame]


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## slownsteady (Sep 16, 2014)

Just to add some previous opinions: http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f37/cutting-concrete-block-table-saw-17964/

I ended up using a circ saw with diamond blade. I clamped a garden hose to the front guide of the saw and set it to a trickle.

Don't know the degree of curve in your driveway and whether you have the luxury of making it broad & sweeping, but I have seen curves accomplished with straight blocks.


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## Chris (Sep 16, 2014)

I have a few gas cut off saws like in that video and they work well but most people don't want to toss a grand at a tool they don't use.


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## nealtw (Sep 16, 2014)

The rent for a few bucks , may have to buy your own blade. We do it with a skill saw with diamond blade and a little water and finish the cut with chisel


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## stadry (Sep 16, 2014)

everyone rents demo saws,,, sometimes you get charged by/for blade wear & other times the blade rents for a flat fee,,, there isn't a saw made that will cut on a circle - its just impossible,,, what happens is the front of the blade ' tries ' to follow the line w/the inside part of the blade & the blade's outside part of the backside allows saw kerf's width,,, when its all done, it appears as a curved line


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## Sparky617 (Feb 23, 2015)

I use a "throw-away" Craftsman circular saw with a concrete blade for cutting pavers.  Cutting them dry is really dusty and you'll get grit in the saw.  Blow it out afterwards with an air compressor with a blower nozzle.  The Harbor Freight option would be a good one if you had stores in Canada,  they do run a website and you can order on-line.


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## mudmixer (Feb 23, 2015)

What are 12x12s as far as material? - Stone or concrete?

Are they dry set in a sand bed or set in mortar?

If dry set in sand, there will likely be a joint between units and some of the necessary sand for and from vibrating. - Considering the 1" thickness and the surface, they are some sort of manufactured stone that are set in mortar to get the strength and stability of a dry-set paver that is about 3" thick. The photos in the video appear to be concrete paving stones that are thicker than 1".

I had a job that entailed about 2 or 3 acres of parking areas connected by driveways and there was not a straight edge anywhere. Obviously, 80 mm thick pavers were used because of the loads (some tractor trailer units) and paved area shapes. The field of pavers were laid in the approximate area and the excess was cut in place with a diamond blade and then the edge restraint was placed and the surface sand was spread before the final vibratory compaction, leveling and sweeping clean.

You apparently are doing the edging first and addressing the driveway later, so this might not apply directly, but if a new driveway surface could be later and the corners or "flares" to the street could be temporarily be picked up and reinstalled later if they are sand set.

Dick


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## nealtw (Feb 23, 2015)

Sparky617 said:


> I use a "throw-away" Craftsman circular saw with a concrete blade for cutting pavers.  Cutting them dry is really dusty and you'll get grit in the saw.  Blow it out afterwards with an air compressor with a blower nozzle.  The Harbor Freight option would be a good one if you had stores in Canada,  they do run a website and you can order on-line.



You can use your good saw if you have a trickle of water at the plade to make mud instead of dust. I use a pump up garden spreyer and a helper.


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## Sparky617 (Feb 24, 2015)

nealtw said:


> You can use your good saw if you have a trickle of water at the plade to make mud instead of dust. I use a pump up garden sprayer and a helper.



I have several saws so I keep one for cutting things like Hardi-Plank and stone pavers that can be really tough on a saw.   If you're going to do the water thing make sure your saw is plugged into a GFCI protected outlet.


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## nealtw (Feb 24, 2015)

Sparky617 said:


> I have several saws so I keep one for cutting things like Hardi-Plank and stone pavers that can be really tough on a saw.   If you're going to do the water thing make sure your saw is plugged into a GFCI protected outlet.



We work in the rain here for at least 1/3 of the year. The only time you get a shock is when the saw is running if you are touching metal parts. In fact you are sharing the power with the motor and I have never had a gfi kick for that. The only time they kick usually is when you drop a plug in the puddle. I suppose if there was a really problem with the saw it would kick.


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