# What are our options for fixing up these 70/80s framed kitchen cabinets?



## ilyaz (Jan 16, 2016)

Hi,

We have a kitchen with old framed cabinets. Probably from the 70s or 80s. Functionally they are OK but cosmetically they don't look so good anymore. I am attaching a couple of photos.

What are our options for fixing up what we have that would be significantly cheaper than simply replacing the cabinets entirely? Whatever needs to be done, I would be hiring someone most likely rather than trying to do it myself.

So should we refinish them? Or replace the doors? I found a couple of cabinet door places online but how do we figure out if what they have will fit our cabinets and can be installed in place of the original doors?

Thanks!


----------



## JoeD (Jan 16, 2016)

If you like the doors but not the colour then refinish and install different hardware.
If you want a different style of door then replace the doors and paint the cabinets. The drawer fronts should also be replaceable. If they don't slide then you may need all new drawers with new slides.


----------



## oldognewtrick (Jan 16, 2016)

I think a new counter top and matching appliances, some back splash would make a bigger visual impact than just changing the cabinets. My :2cents:


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 16, 2016)

ilyaz said:


> Hi,We have a kitchen with old framed cabinets. Probably from the 70s or 80s. Functionally they are OK but cosmetically they don't look so good anymore. I am attaching a couple of photos.What are our options for fixing up what we have that would be significantly cheaper than simply replacing the cabinets entirely?



Because there is a high probability that the cabinets were stained and finished with oil based material, the least expensive option is to remove the doors and drawers, sand and stain, or prime with a transitional primer and paint.

There is a downside to staining, in that the dark walnut stain cannot be entirely removed, so a lighter stain will have dark graining remaining.

Next would be to skin the face frames, which allows you to freely change the style and type of hinges and select the stain or paint color of you choice. Reuse the existing doors, adding decorative moldings or plantons.There are also a couple of methods you can use to re-skin the face frames, phenolic or wood, both can either be stained or painted.




ilyaz said:


> Whatever needs to be done, I would be hiring someone most likely rather than trying to do it myself.



Or DIY.



ilyaz said:


> So should we refinish them? Or replace the doors? I found a couple of cabinet door places online but how do we figure out if what they have will fit our cabinets and can be installed in place of the original doors?
> 
> Thanks!



The doors that you have appear to be flush overly, but they may be 3/8 inset.

You have three basic choices for the doors; The same style, inset or mediterranean, (where the door fits "within" the opening in the cabinet.)

When you, (you wife), decide which decorator level fits, measure the opening, width than height, of both the door and dwr.

If there is an opening with 2 doors and no center style, that must be noted. likewise, if there is an opening that you would like 2 doors for, instead of one, note it.

There are some door mfg. who will prep doors for hinges, or you can have them delivered to a prearranged cabinet shop and have them do it.

Or, you can do it yourself. However, keep in mind, the grain is vertical and should point up.


----------



## baileystewart (Jan 21, 2016)

This really reminded me of my child hood. my grand mom use to make waffles for the breakfast. I felt my grandma when i saw this pic.Thanks for sharing this. If i were you i would have polished it or re-painted it. But will never replace the designs of cabinets .


----------



## ilyaz (Jan 22, 2016)

Thank you very much everyone for the info. 

In the bathroom (not shown in the pix) I have the same type of cabinet for the vanity, and it looks just as old and worn out. Before deciding on the kitchen, I want to do a test run on the bathroom cabinet. So what I am thinking of doing is more or less this:
1. Lightly sand the cabinet (the frame, doors, everything)
2. Fix any small damage (cracks, chips, etc)
3. Paint dark, maybe even black. Since the original (oak) cabinet is dark, I want to make sure the old color does not show through the new paint
4. Add new hardware to the doors
5. Install a new vanity top and faucet

Questions:
For #1: 
- What grain sandpaper should I use?
- Would this be practical to do by hand, or do I need some type of power/belt sander?
For #2:
- Should I use wood putty for this or something else? Most damage is around edges/corners.
For #3:
- Any particular type of paint I should use or should avoid?
- Should I use a solvent based primer before I paint? Some other primer?


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 23, 2016)

ilyaz said:


> Thank you very much everyone for the info.
> 
> In the bathroom (not shown in the pix) I have the same type of cabinet for the vanity, and it looks just as old and worn out. Before deciding on the kitchen, I want to do a test run on the bathroom cabinet. So what I am thinking of doing is more or less this:
> 1. Lightly sand the cabinet (the frame, doors, everything)
> ...



What type and style of new HDW?



ilyaz said:


> Questions:
> 
> For #1:
> - What grain sandpaper should I use?
> - Would this be practical to do by hand, or do I need some type of power/belt sander?



Are you intending to use oil base or water base paint?

I'd use 150 and after the transitional primer, lightly with 220. You'll find that investing in a profile sander will be welcome.



ilyaz said:


> For #2:
> - Should I use wood putty for this or something else? Most damage is around edges/corners.



Use some small sharp implement to remove any lacquer which may remain in any indentations and then use wood dough.



ilyaz said:


> For #3:
> - Any particular type of paint I should use or should avoid?
> - Should I use a solvent based primer before I paint? Some other primer?



There are water based transitional primers, However I prefer oil based such as ZINSER or BIN because they are fast drying and are not grainy when dry.


----------



## CallMeVilla (Jan 23, 2016)

Been here, done this .... more than once.  They made those cabinets by the millions, I think.  The doors are hollow and inexpensive, as are the drawer fronts.  Here are some options:

1.  Lose the counter tops.  The 70's a calling for their formica and want it back!  Plan on a whole new look.  Light cabinets require dark counters.  Also, consider upgrading to a thin crown mold at the top.  This adds a touch of class and won't break your budget.

2.  Remove doors, drawer fronts, replace with new.  Aggressively sand the face frames because they are typically made form ash.  I mean belt sander and random orbital.  Don't bother with chemicals because you will only piss off the wood and drive the stain deeper.  You will not be able to remove all the old stain so consider a cherry or red oak finish which is contemporary and blends the grain better.  Stain the new doors to match and update your hardware.  Locate an online manufacturer or a local cabinet shop to reproduce your drawer fronts.  In my cases, I tossed the drawers completely and remade them using melamine with the new fronts.

3.  Remove doors, drawer fronts, replace with new.  Lightly sand the face frames and have them re-faced by a pro.  This eliminates the mess of deep sanding and re-staining.  However, the drawer fronts will still have to be finished to match.  Again, update your hardware.

4.  Forget the natural wood look entirely.  The cabinet style (doors) is dated but you could stay with it.  A well prepped, spray finish would be fast and les expensive.  Painted kitchens are not see as necessarily up-scale but they are more common today than they used to be.  You can hire someone who has the skill and equipment to do the spraying.  You can DIY the prep if you are meticulous.


----------



## ilyaz (Jan 25, 2016)

So I went to HDepot today and bought this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Transformations-Dark-Color-Cabinet-Kit-9-Piece-258240/202572595

Why? The guy in the paint dept recommended it and I figured I'll get more info about it and return it if it's not what I need. 

Has anyone here had any experience with this product?


----------



## nealtw (Jan 25, 2016)

Without knowing anything, I would guess what you have is some TSP, and a green kitchen scrubber for washing the wood, some paint and some clear poly. I have painted cupboards with house paint and used a poly with a stain it for and antique finish. Might be alright but if you run short how much does it cost then.?????


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 25, 2016)

ilyaz said:


> So I went to HDepot today and bought this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Transformations-Dark-Color-Cabinet-Kit-9-Piece-258240/202572595
> 
> Why? The guy in the paint dept recommended it and I figured I'll get more info about it and return it if it's not what I need.
> 
> Has anyone here had any experience with this product?



No.

As described, there is a learning curve, and the color rendition will have specific measurements by volume, don't forget them.


----------



## ilyaz (Jan 31, 2016)

In the last few days I got two quotes: one for replacing the cabinets with new ones, the other for painting them. Leaning toward the latter, and I don't think it's going to be a DIY project. The painter said that he prefers to use latex-based outdoor furniture paint *like this*. Do you think it's a good idea?


----------



## oldognewtrick (Jan 31, 2016)

I painted the steel wheels on my 4 wheeler a couple years ago and it's held up quite well. It's been tested a lil on the hard side and still looks good.


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 31, 2016)

ilyaz said:


> In the last few days I got two quotes: one for replacing the cabinets with new ones, the other for painting them. Leaning toward the latter, and I don't think it's going to be a DIY project. The painter said that he prefers to use latex-based outdoor furniture paint *like this*. Do you think it's a good idea?



Ist. You say "LATEX" and the product links to an oil based product.

2nd. What is the prep. process and if he intends to apply over your existing, without prep, find a bonified cabinet finisher, recommended by a custom cabinet shop.


By the way, how's the condo?


----------



## oldognewtrick (Jan 31, 2016)

Painting is the easy part. The thing to making it last is the prep. Clean, dull, dry.


----------



## ilyaz (Jan 31, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Ist. You say "LATEX" and the product links to an oil based product.



Good catch. My bad. Wasn't looking carefully when browsing the shelves. 



Snoonyb said:


> 2nd. What is the prep. process and if he intends to apply over your existing, without prep, find a bonified cabinet finisher, recommended by a custom cabinet shop.



He was planning to sand the cabinets first. Well, technically, clean them first since they are all dirty. Then sand. 



Snoonyb said:


> By the way, how's the condo?



In what sense?


----------



## ilyaz (Feb 1, 2016)

I stopped by Sherwin Williams today and they recommended *this paint*. Claimed that it was very durable and designed specifically for this type of job. Anyone has experience with this product or *this competitor*?


----------



## Snoonyb (Feb 1, 2016)

ilyaz said:


> Good catch. My bad. Wasn't looking carefully when browsing the shelves.



I see. So he's having you do your own research. Which isn't bad, as long as you understand the products. 



ilyaz said:


> He was planning to sand the cabinets first. Well, technically, clean them first since they are all dirty. Then sand.



Was he going to prime and I ask because the finishes of that era were difficult to transition. 



ilyaz said:


> In what sense?



You had asked about a gas valve.


----------



## Snoonyb (Feb 1, 2016)

ilyaz said:


> I stopped by Sherwin Williams today and they recommended *this paint*. Claimed that it was very durable and designed specifically for this type of job. Anyone has experience with this product or *this competitor*?



SHERWIN WILLIAMS is a quality product, however instead of just asking, you'd be well advised to take a dwr. or door, and ask when they are looking at the product.


----------



## ilyaz (Feb 1, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> I see. So he's having you do your own research. Which isn't bad, as long as you understand the products.



No, he's not having me do anything at this point, since we have not hired him yet. I am just doing the research on my own.




Snoonyb said:


> Was he going to prime and I ask because the finishes of that era were difficult to transition.



I think so, if I remember correctly. 



Snoonyb said:


> You had asked about a gas valve.



We're actually leaning toward not replacing the range for now. After a good cleaning it will probably look pretty good and it's still fully functional even though it looks, and is, old. But one prospective tenant didn't mind so we may keep it until it actually breaks.


----------



## Snoonyb (Feb 1, 2016)

ilyaz said:


> No, he's not having me do anything at this point, since we have not hired him yet. I am just doing the research on my own.
> 
> I think so, if I remember correctly.
> 
> We're actually leaning toward not replacing the range for now. After a good cleaning it will probably look pretty good and it's still fully functional even though it looks, and is, old. But one prospective tenant didn't mind so we may keep it until it actually breaks.



Onward and upward.


----------

