# sinking vent pipe



## miker1977 (Jul 24, 2016)

Maybe someone can help.

I had a rotted lateral cast iron pipe in the basement. A friend swapped out the cast iron for plastic. Now to the vertical cast iron pipe it was attached to is sinking. it has dropped about an inch. I went up the the first floor and wedged some wood under the pipping so It won't slip down anymore. What should I do? Should I jack the pipe up an inch to where it was and put in all new cast iron like it was before? I think the vertical pipe is just a vent because theres no plumbing above the fist floor.

Any help would be great. Thanks


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## oldognewtrick (Jul 24, 2016)

You need a rider clamp to secure the pipe from slipping. 

https://www.google.com/search?clien...0...1c..64.mobile-gws-serp..0.0.0.VaHbOJdvomM


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## miker1977 (Jul 24, 2016)

Old Dog,


Thanks. That makes so much sense. I'll have to see if the home store by me has one in the right size. Should I try to jack the pipe back up an inch before putting the clamp on? It shouldn't be too difficult. My car jack might to the trick


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## oldognewtrick (Jul 24, 2016)

I would be real careful about jacking up the pipe. Stabilizing would be my suggestion.


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## slownsteady (Jul 24, 2016)

If this is a vent pipe, and it exits the roof, you need to check that the rainproof seal is still intact.


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## miker1977 (Jul 25, 2016)

oldognewtrick said:


> I would be real careful about jacking up the pipe. Stabilizing would be my suggestion.



So I shouldn't jack it back to where it was? I was worried about the added pressure on the connections. Will they break with the added pressure?


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## nealtw (Jul 25, 2016)

I think you should bit the bullet and change the whole stack to plastic. It will be just a matter of time until the next problem shows up.


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## frodo (Jul 25, 2016)

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Empire-Industries-50SAG0200-2-Electro-Galvanized-Short-Arm-Riser-Clamp


your problem is none of your piping is supported.

if, the pipe is falling down,  then the seal of the roof on the roof jack is compromised. 
if it were me.
i would, remove the piping from the basement/crawlspace  and the room with the illegal/ugly plumbing

if it was my job to do.
the vent pipe looks to be 2''.  
the washer and sink only require a 1 1/2'' vent.take a 20' section of 1 1/2'' pipe up on the roof
stick the pipe into the 2'' vent pipe.  IT WILL stand up in the air like a crazy flag pole.
stop,  go down stairs
remove, the crazy illegal plumbing  in the wash room,  und thru the floor to the basement.
lower the vent till it rests on the floor.
cut it in half,
lower it again, cut in half
as you are lowering the 2'' steel,  you are also feeding the 1 1/2'' thru the holes that were drilled/notched/insulation etc
keep removeing all the old pipe.

now.add a new piece of 2'' pvc to the 90  then re plumb that washer /sink correctly




http://www.supplyhouse.com/Empire-Industries-110CTI0200-2-Copper-Epoxy-Coated-Clevis-Hanger

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Empire-Industries-
41AG0038-3-8-Electro-Galvanized-Ceiling-Plate

you need a couple of hangers on that existing 2'' in the basement

it is not suported


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## Sparky617 (Jul 25, 2016)

Cast iron is quieter than PVC.  In my house, built in 1998-1999 the drains from the Master Bath and Hall Bath go to cast iron down the walls from PVC in the ceiling.  I've had PVC going down walls in other homes and you really hear the water rushing down the pipes when someone flushes the toilet in the upstairs bathrooms.  I'd add the brackets that Old Dog mentions rather than going to the unneeded expense of removing it.


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## frodo (Jul 26, 2016)

Sparky617 said:


> Cast iron is quieter than PVC.  In my house, built in 1998-1999 the drains from the Master Bath and Hall Bath go to cast iron down the walls from PVC in the ceiling.  I've had PVC going down walls in other homes and you really hear the water rushing down the pipes when someone flushes the toilet in the upstairs bathrooms.  I'd add the brackets that Old Dog mentions rather than going to the unneeded expense of removing it.



you are correct that cast is quiet-er as a DRAIN line. we are talking VENT
different animal, no water drains thru it

adding the clamp will stop the pipe from moving,  sure enough

but,  the plumbing above the clamp is not up to code and needs to be brought up to code.

when that is done, he is left with a vent pipe that simple needs to be removed and replaced.  added expense.  20 bucks for the pipe
the op has already stated the pipe has moved, the seal on the roof is broken
only makes sense to remove and replace.

ILLEGAL plumbing,  needs to be replaced


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## jeffmattero76 (Jul 29, 2016)

frodo said:


> http://www.supplyhouse.com/Empire-Industries-50SAG0200-2-Electro-Galvanized-Short-Arm-Riser-Clamp
> 
> 
> your problem is none of your piping is supported.
> ...


I love that idea! One question... How do you cut the cast in half? Grinder, sawzall, something else???


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## Snoonyb (Jul 29, 2016)

These are available for rent;https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=soil+pipe+cutters&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

They are available in both mechanical and hydraulic.


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## slownsteady (Jul 29, 2016)

jeffmattero76 said:


> I love that idea! One question... How do you cut the cast in half? Grinder, sawzall, something else???



soil pipe cutter, or a sawzall with a package of blades, or a grinder with extra wheels. It won't be easy with the last two, but if you have them handy, it might be the cheaper option.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jul 29, 2016)

How do you use a soil pipe cutter to cut lengthwise?  I am assuming you are talking about what i call a chain cutter.


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## Snoonyb (Jul 29, 2016)

Why would you be cutting lengthwise?


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## slownsteady (Jul 29, 2016)

for the sake of clarity, vertical or horizontal.......

assuming "lengthwise" means vertical????


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## jeffmattero76 (Jul 29, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Why would you be cutting lengthwise?


If i am following frodos suggestion earlier in this thread correctly, you will have a pvc pipe inside the cast iron pipe from the roof to the basement. I understand cutting 2 foot lengths with the chain cutter, but you would have to cut the cast lengthwise to remove it, wouldn't you? Perhaps i am missing something?


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## jeffmattero76 (Jul 29, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> Why would you be cutting lengthwise?


If i am following frodos suggestion earlier in this thread correctly, you will have a pvc pipe inside the cast iron pipe from the roof to the basement. I understand cutting 2 foot lengths with the chain cutter, but you would have to cut the cast lengthwise to remove it, wouldn't you? Perhaps i am missing something?.


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## Snoonyb (Jul 29, 2016)

I see the confusion.

The 2" becomes the "guide" for the 1-1/2", rather than attempting the feed and couple from the bottom, or hit all the holes from the top.

The method is once the 1-1/2" is fed from the top, the 1st 2 cuts allow you to remove a section and you then have single cuts as the 2" drops.

What he didn't say is you'll need to lift both or support the 2" above each successive cut, to remove the cut section.

Using an angle grinder to cut the cast vertically, would require 2 vertical cuts and a high percentage of risk in damaging the 1-1/2".

Or, disconnect the PVC below the floor at the no-hub coupling, support and offset it, return to the cut section and smack it with a hammer.


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## nealtw (Jul 29, 2016)

jeffmattero76 said:


> If i am following frodos suggestion earlier in this thread correctly, you will have a pvc pipe inside the cast iron pipe from the roof to the basement. I understand cutting 2 foot lengths with the chain cutter, but you would have to cut the cast lengthwise to remove it, wouldn't you? Perhaps i am missing something?



I didn't read frodo's whole post but at a quck glance at 2 post I see he said remove and replace.


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