# Remodeling kitchen, any advice?



## TxBuilder (Mar 4, 2006)

I am going to gut the kitchen in our house and totally redo it. Only thing that will be left will be the sink and dish washer.

For those who have done this before. Any words of advice? Any design tips I really evaulate before I map it all out.

I will post design specs here before I start and will document the whole process. Should be a lot of work but really fun.


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## Aceinstaller (Mar 5, 2006)

I have remodeled and designed many kitchens with homeowners.

there are different variables for every project.

take some time to evaluate your wants, needs, and budget.  

make sure that your appliances such as the fridge, stove, sink, and dishwasher are in the locations that best suit your everyday use.  You can get some books on kitchen remodels to show you a variety of setups to help guide you with your choices.

Also remember,  a kitchen is used on a daily basis.  don't demo the kitchen until the cabinets and countertops are in, due to the usual 2 week to a month waiting time for any special order cabinets and countertops.

Good luck


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## Brian Briggs (Mar 11, 2006)

There will be a lapse of time between cabinets and countertops if you are getting granite, corian or engineered stone.


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## annie (Mar 17, 2006)

I have done a bunch of kitchens.  Lots of options.  I agree, evaluate what is important to you, also what others want for home value increase.  I like custom cabinetry, so you can get more usable space, no fillers.  Can be done for similar price as stock cabinets if you shop.  Shop everything!  

Have you looked at counter top options yet?  Thinking of stainless, or are you open to liquid glass?  Finger prints with stainless and granite!  Brushed stainless works, too.  And counters of the manufactured stone - Silestone, other makers, are great for living with.  

I agree with comments above as to planning for the timing.  Cabinets take a month or so, then the counters another 2-3 weeks after the cabinets are in.  Important to figure out interim kitchen solutions!

Good luck!


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## TxBuilder (Mar 19, 2006)

Here is a crude sketch. My digicam is kaput right now.

Plan right now is to tile over the linoloum floor with nice saltillo tile. We are going to use the current wood cabniets and paint them. I might replace the doors as well. New stainless steel hardware. Tile the countertops. Paint the walls. Get new appliances, stainless still refrig. & stove. 

The major work will be tearing the area where the stove is out totally and rebuilding it so it's a functional bar where you can eat. I might extend it out into the dining area a little more.

I will try to get some pics. ASAP


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## inspectorD (Mar 19, 2006)

One thing you have to consider before you tile the floor.
When you build up the floor you end up raising the area in front of the dishwasher. This becomes a problem when you try to remove it later on. You will have to remove or raise the counter to allow enough room in the future,Expecially with a tile counter this gets a little harder to do.
Any body that knows any tricks ....

InspectorD


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## Ray Gardner (Mar 24, 2006)

Just make sure you consult with a kitchen designer to insure adherence to all the design guidelines and review all of your options. I would also advise you to think all issues over carefully prior to making final decisions, in that statistics indicate that whatever decisions you make you will most likely live with for the next 17 years.


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## CraigFL (Mar 24, 2006)

My experience is that you can't have too many cabinets. You could increase your cabinet space by putting them ove the sink and stove area.

Consider raising the level of the countertops(unless you're very short) for ease of use.

Use concrete backer board as an underlayment for the tile -- floor and countertops. This will give you a much better, solid surface. It will also require extra planning for floor height as mentioned above and in the extreme, possibly cutting out the floor down to the floor joists.

Use as hard a surface tile as you can find for floors and countertops to be chip resistant when things are dropped. (Plan on making powder out of your good crystal when it is dropped on the tile...)


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## milehigh_woodcrafter (Apr 3, 2006)

your standard base cabinets are 34-1/2" add 1-1/2 ctop =36" standard.

add floor or tile yer stuck, unless you shim up the cabs the distance of the floor before install, then you can tile or whatever under the fridge, dishwasher, winecooler, etc...In other words, calc the floor into all of your equations.

hope this helps. many people overlook this.

use durrock sheeting on vertical surfaces receiving tile for a longer lasting bond.


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## Kitchen Designer (Apr 12, 2006)

Ray Gardner said:
			
		

> Just make sure you consult with a kitchen designer to insure adherence to all the design guidelines and review all of your options. I would also advise you to think all issues over carefully prior to making final decisions, in that statistics indicate that whatever decisions you make you will most likely live with for the next 17 years.



Ray is spot on. Dont let well meaning friends or "kitchen designers" (read - salespeople) design your kitchen. Seek out an independent CKD (Certified Kitchen Designer). They will design you a kitchen that suits your lifestyle and budget.


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## ccc (Sep 29, 2006)

I have new stainless appliances and I hate them.  They show fingerprints and are hard to clean.  You need to put cabinets above the lower cabinets.  The design above does not look very appealing.  I have Zodiac engineered stone (Quartz)  countertops and love them.


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## paull90260 (Oct 17, 2006)

Wow.  My stainless appliances don't show any fingerprints and fairly easy to keep them clean but the stove top is a bitch to keep it clean because it is black.


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## bethany14 (Oct 19, 2006)

Great kitchen Paul, what's the flooring?
I have a stainless steel fridge too, no prints on mine either.  I guess there are different finishes.  My best advice would be to do a fingerprint test on the appliances you're thinking you'll get.  Lick'em and Stick'em


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## paull90260 (Oct 19, 2006)

The floor is actually ceramic tile.


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## glennjanie (Oct 19, 2006)

Cool Kitchen, Maybe I will call you when I hit the lottery.
Glenn


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## Rustedbird (Oct 21, 2006)

I'm on my second kitchen. Leaving the sink where it is, not adding anything infrastructure-wise  beyond a duct for the range hood. Also, agree, you cannot have too many cabinets. 

For reasons of economy and general cheapness, vinyl floor, laminate countertops, Mills-Pride cabinets and keeping old appliances since they are only a few years old.


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## luvr29 (Dec 5, 2006)

For great tips on a whole variety of DIY step by step instruction that will help you do the job you want to do.


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## ttfweb (Mar 31, 2007)

We have posted a number of tips from our kitchen remodel.

Good luck.


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## Outbacker (Apr 12, 2007)

Paul, I have a quick question for you, unless someone else knows the answer. The wood on your cabinets: what is it? I was referring to lower picture you have. Thanks.


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## Stone Sinks (Jun 1, 2007)

Hi,

I think you should go in for Stainless Steel Sinks, Ceramic Sinks, Copper Sinks or  even Stone Sinks. I think the best for your kitchen would be a stone sink.  

Regards,

*Stone Sinks*

---------------------------------------

*Stainless Steel Sinks, Ceramic Sinks, Copper Sinks, Stone Sinks*


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## AS Construction (Sep 14, 2007)

My best advice, when it comes to kitchens and baths, is to hire a professional.  You have plumbing, electrical, rough and finish carpentry, and heat.  With all these different aspects if you really don't know what you are doing, the chance for error is great.  I'm not saying you can't do it, but if you are going to attempt, anything you aren't confident with, you should seek professional assistance.


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## Rustedbird (Sep 16, 2007)

12 years ago I needed professionals a lot. Now I need them a lot less.  They are still handy but not for what I've learned to do. 

I'm a quick study and willing to take the risk.  In time ( over twelve years) I got to the point where I can do most plumbing, carpentry, rough and finish, a goodly chunk of electrical, drywall and even laid my first sheet vinyl floor with pattern, lined up and _right_.  I'm to the point where I can actually start charging for stuff but just don't want to yet. (I also used to like computers too until I got paid to be a network operator. Now I can just barely stand em'.)

Do what you know, then ask lots of questions. No such thing as a stupid question. A lot of good people here willing to help.    Just _keep_ asking questions. Take classes if you can. Free ones at your local big box, also continuing adult education, courtesy of your local public schools and community colleges. 

Safety first, last and always. I have scar tissue from being stupid. Be smart.  Measure twice, cut once...with safety goggles and hands well away from the blade. 

DIY is what's it's all about.  Everyone starts out knowing little and or nothing and then learns. Learning is what it's all about. 

Of course I'm a hard case. I only seek professional assistance when I'm on fire and sunk.


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## inspectorD (Sep 20, 2007)

Anyone can learn ...just like you said. But Askin those questions is the biggest part, the second is getting the correct advice.

I always GO to the library...get a book and learn something about the background first. Then I get an idea of how to phrase or ask the right question. This helps to get the correct answer.

But for all you folks out there who don't ask...we can't tell. 

So ask...there is no embarassing question on a computer forumn.

Only help. 

Like rusted bird said.


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## glennjanie (Sep 26, 2007)

The biggest problem I have had with the pros is scheduling, if you do it all you don't have to call each contractor 3 or 4 times to get them on the job. Another thing that just scorched my hide was having to finish or correct the work I paid to have done.
Glenn


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