# Making a craft table with lift for sewing machine



## zannej (Jun 5, 2021)

It's me again, Margaret. Heh heh heh.
I have another  hairbrained idea of a project to add to my list once I get the essential stuff out of the way.

Once everything is cleaned up better I want to start working on more crafts with my mother and she wanted to have a sewing space. I figured it would be nice to have a sewing table and after watching some Youtube videos, I liked the tables where the sewing machine's sewing area sat flush with the table. But, since machines can change and I might want to move it, I was thinking it would be cool to have an adjustable platform for it that could be moved up and down. Now, the ones designed specifically for that purpose are expensive as hell. Cheapest one I could find was about $180. Most are around $240+. The tables that come with them pre-built were $700+. So, I was searching the internet for ideas when I saw that someone used an automotive scissor jack and attached a little hand crank.



Because I like to make things complicated (and I hate bending down under desks/tables) I wanted to have the hand crank on the side of the desk/table so I could reach next to it and crank it. That would require a longer shaft. so, I'm trying to figure out the best way to do it. I found two different types of crank attachments on the jacks.

First is the standard one that requires a hook through the loop:


It's the cheaper version.

Other one has some little levers you can turn by hand but also has a nub that fits in a socket so it can be turned with the ratchet. I watched videos of it in use and sadly the ratchet part didn't work as smoothly as hand-cranking.



On either one I wold need some sort of rod (either wooden or metal) that extends out past the table on the right. (I don't plan to make it terribly wide).

Once I get the length I want + some sort of stabilizer to keep it straight, I could add a hand crank. I had all sorts of random ideas from trying to re-use the cranks from a fishing pole (probably too small), converting a bike pedal crank (not quite sure how), altering an existing hand crank (I saw a replacement one for a hose stand), or making my own. If I make my own I could have a rod to make it look more like the hose stand's crank, or I could have a wheel. I saw a video on how to make a crank wheel for a router table. I wouldn't even need to drill the decorative holes. Just a hole down the center that attaches to the rod and some sort of bolts inside a drilled out dowel rod for a handle.



I suppose I could buy one of the pre-made handles like in the images above-- the wheel one looks kinda cool. I'd have to figure out what hardware to use to attach it.

I found some nice building plans at Ana White's website Modern Craft Table | Ana White
I'd leave off the shelves on the right side though and make the table smaller.. I'd have a side panel that the rod/shank would go through to have the wheel. Need to figure out the best way to make sure it could spin freely in the hole but remain stabilized. I think I've seen little wheel thingies with ball bearings or whatever that allow bolts to spin in them.


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## Snoonyb (Jun 5, 2021)

There are any # and sources of adaptable shaft accessories; https://www.amazon.com/Hymnorq-Adap...cphy=9019557&hvtargid=pla-1213097510621&psc=1


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## zannej (Jun 5, 2021)

Thanks, Soonyb!

Highup (on flooring forum-- I believe his name is Randy but I'm terrible at remembering names) mentioned to me that I would need to have some guides to make sure the platform moves evenly. I looked at the official mechanisms and saw that they were  [ shaped with metal rods. I started thinking about old wooden drawer guides and was thinking maybe I could use angle aluminium angle brackets as guides around some parts that stick out and glide through. I'll have to see if I can find rods and figure out how to assemble it. I'm having a hard time finding the right words to describe what I'm visualizing and my attempts to draw it didn't come out well. LOL.


Looked pretty neat. Perhaps I cold make some sort of block like that out of wood with grooves in it for where the metal parts go. and I could do some stuff with wood-- dowels etc. I could wax them to make them glide easier.

A cylinder shaped handle for a cooking utensil broke off (the plastic inside the cooking utensil came out of the metal). I was thinking I *might* be able to adapt it to fit over the end on the cheaper jack stud. I could put a dowel inside the hollow part for reinforcement. I'll also have a look at any metal stuff I might have leftover from parts for the tractor (if the guy who does yardwork for me didn't take them all).

I'm still trying to consider the best way to make the guides...
Here's my crappy side view sketch


and back view (cutaway view)


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## Snoonyb (Jun 5, 2021)

The door guide are an Idea, but I would make them a s U instead of a notch, and pace the, 2 ea, on ea end, instead of across the short dimension.

You can lube with bar soap, like we used to use on the parting bead of rope and weight sash windows.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 5, 2021)

How about using Ana White's pull-out shelf idea but with the shelf installed vertically with the sewing machine table mounted to the front of the shelf? I am not sure if  ball bearing slides would handle the cantilevered weight or not.


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## zannej (Jun 5, 2021)

I was thinking of installing the angle stock (I meant stock, not brackets) so they formed a U channel but I didn't draw that well. LOL.
Here's a picture of the angle stock


Or I could get an aluminum U channel


Maybe I can use the angle or channel stock on the back of the platform base so it can fit over a wood key piece. I could even sandwich the wood in angle stock if necessary and add some grease or something to make it slide better. They had a squared off piece of metal but it wasn't the right size to fit in the groove.

Another idea I just thought of would be to extend the underside of the platform and drill a hole or two and use metal rods that anchor to the bottom straight down and the holes on top pass over the rods.


I could see if I could find washers with openings large enough to reinforce the holes on the wood. Or see if there is something specifically made for that purpose.

I'm nixing the grease idea as that could get on the fabric, but maybe some wax?

Also, cold rolled steel rod is longer and cheaper than the aluminium. Aluminum one I linked is too short I think.


I saw something called a Woodruff key but it's far too short and not the right size to fit in the U-channel-- at least I think it won't fit. I suppose if I put it on the back of the platform and mounted the channel behind, the key might slide inside.


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## zannej (Jun 6, 2021)

Eddie, I forgot to respond: I will have to look up which plan that is of Ana's. Drawer glides can be expensive and be a pain to line up. I'm thinking the rods might be easier to do. I could be wrong though.

I'm still trying to figure out the term for the holes that the rods pass through. I know there are thick metal circles for that purpose (I could have sworn I've seen them) but I can't remember the name for them.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 6, 2021)

Ana makes it easy by installing drawer slides to the frame first then measuring for drawer width and aligning the finished drawer w/o tedious measurements. I did a similar thing for my horizontal router table but used T-slots.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 7, 2021)

I was going to suggest a large wheel on the shaft but the position of the wheel would get in the way as it moves L- R with scissoring.


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## zannej (Jun 7, 2021)

Oh yeah, I remember watching her video on how she did her drawer installs. It was pretty cool.
I found a nice solution although it's more expensive than what I had hoped, but when I priced out parts, it's actually not bad and it's specifically designed to be a sliding system. It's $39 for two 1000mm long rods with mounting plates AND four slides. It's long enough I could cut the rods in half and do side mounts for additional stability. I can use scrap wood as stop blocks at the bottom and underside of table will stop the upward movement. I can attach small pieces of thin scrap wood to the backs of the ball bearing sliding parts to make mounting brackets for the moving shelf.


Next thing I need to figure out is how to do the drop-in leaf parts. I will have two of them. One that fits around the sewing machine snugly and another that fits over the machine to create a flat surface when the machine is down.

The sewing machines I'm looking at are around 12" high and the jack I'm looking at can raise things about 14".

I can visualize in my mind how I want things to connect in terms of the lift. I'll have to figure out best height to mount the lift itself and adjust table height accordingly. I plan to have a chair that can go up and down. So long as the table isn't too high for the max height of the chair, it should be good.

Still trying to think of the best solution for the hand crank. There's no rule that says the jack has to be at the back like in the inspiration photo. It could be off to one side turned sideways so the crank could be easier to reach. If I build the side shelf thingies like in Ana's plans, I could mount the jack on the right side shelf. So long as the platform is well supported it should work. If I put a glide on the opposite side it can help stabilize it and worst case I can get a stick or something to shove under the left side of the platform to make sure it can't drop. LOL.

Any more ideas on the hand crank part? a small wheel one might not be bad if I can figure out how to attach it.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 7, 2021)

Those slides and bearings are neat, I noticed rods used for a router lift.


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## zannej (Jun 7, 2021)

I think the slides & bearings will be easier for installation, creation, and use than what I saw in this video, but the video is still cool and I like the adjustable legs. It did have a diy handle. I need to figure out the best way to attach a handle. My late elderly friend made a bunch of wooden paper towel holders that looked like this:



The one we have broke so I have the round part with the depression in the middle. I could either use it or duplicate it and then add another piece to the edge for hand-cranking. Can't be too large obviously.
Question is, how do I attach the circle to the jack and what's the best configuration for a handle, lever? I also need to figure out the best attachment point for the crank handle. I'll have to check the broken thing and see if it already has a spot for the side rod, but I don't think that one had it. I do have the center dowel with the little cap. I wonder if that could somehow be fashioned in to a handle....


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## Eddie_T (Jun 7, 2021)

I was going to suggest this then realized you're dealing with a socket rather than a nut. However,  the technique can be used just make a hole to fit whatever the jack has on the shaft. It looks like the lumberjocks guy pinned his crank handle on.




View attachment 25947


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## Eddie_T (Jun 7, 2021)

Just thinking  .   .   .  I wonder if a broomstick or piece of PVC pipe might work to extend the crank to outside the cabinet.


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## zannej (Jun 7, 2021)

PVC Is too brittle, IMO. But, maybe I can attach a thick dowel or block around the loop thingy on the jack. I could cut a notch for it and then secure it with a bolt trough the loop. I can see if the guy who did my yard work left any of my tractor parts for attaching things. I might have something small enough to fit in terms of bolts. I think I saw someone use a carriage bolt for some of the handle stuff. If I put a block/dowel on the jack's loop then attach the wheel/round part to that & cut a hole that will fit the carriage bolt on the backside of the wheel and then put another wood dowel secured with a locknut on the bolt so it can pivot but not slide off.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 8, 2021)

For the jack shaft extension don't sell PVC short, it's pretty tough plus the jack shaft won't have much strain on it. I have never has any break plus with a heat gun you might be able to mold the end to fit the jack thingy. Also a steel broom or mop handle might have some possibility.

For the drop in leaf inserts use an old  countertop maker's trick. Once all else is finished and the machine is in place make a template using manila file folders. The trick is to use the factory edges where ever possible taping the overlapped folders and segments together with masking tape. You may need to use some scrap wood or cardboard to support the folder stock while fitting. When you're through you'll have a template just the size of the insert you need with no measurement required. You can flip it over and tape some of the overlap the bottom to keep it from being too floppy.Then just put it over your insert stock and trace the edges.


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## zannej (Jun 8, 2021)

I"m a monkey and I've broken metal handles before. LOL. I did have an idea though. The metal handle that broke off of a silicone serving spoon (silicone insert came out) fits over the thick dowel that was in the center of the paper towel holder. It fits loosely enough that it can spin easily over the wood. I could use bar soap as soony suggested to lubricate it. I could then add some sort of grip tape to the handle. It will have to be cut shorter obviously, but I can do that with the chop saw. It already has a wooden nub as a stop at the end.







When I first read the leaf info my brain wasn't working. Now it makes sense. If I'm going to use cardboard at all, it would be better to just use cardboard to begin with instead of manila folders. (I don't have any manila folders but I have a ton of cardboard).

Now I need to figure out how to incorporate this baby in to the mix. I will need a cover for it to make sure the cats don't screw with the threads if they ever get in. It's not quite as big as it looks compared to other sergers. It's a "compact" version and is not too heavy. I will probably put it away when not in use but I don't need a 2nd lift for it- although I might get some sort of tray with handles to make it easier to pick up. Too bad those rev-a-shelf things where she shelf sort of swings out and then under are so expensive (over $460). Photo courtesy of Melba from the FB listing.


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## zannej (Jun 9, 2021)

Since I want the platform to be stable and have the weight supported well, I'm going to use some 11.8"x7.5" shelf brackets that have a diagonal bar for support. The longer end will be horizontal. I picked that size because I found decent ones for cheap. On the left side of the desk I can have scrap wood blocks attached with hex-head bolts in such a way that they can pivot sideways so they can go under the platform to act as sort of a lock and extra support (Barring just getting sticks or something of different lengths to just prop under there. I can have 1 for each level (planning on 3 height levels). A woodworking magazine recommended using a plastic tube cut up in to bushings to keep the metal from rubbing the wood.



Rouch sketch of desk:



I sort of wonder if I could have one long threaded rod that goes from lowest shelf to highest point that would allow me to adjust the exact height of multiple blocks. Here's my sketch of it.


What do you think? If I anchor the rod properly do you think that could work?


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## Eddie_T (Jun 9, 2021)

I am concerned that the lift is too far away from the CG.


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## 68bucks (Jun 10, 2021)

Could you just use a linear actuator instead of the jack? Might be more expensive but you could just push a button instead of messing with a jack/handle situation.


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## zannej (Jun 10, 2021)

Eddie, I started to think about that as well. I might end up having to set the jack in the middle at the back. I'm still trying to figure out the best positioning. I wonder if turning the jack sideways so the crank would be in the the middle and cranked from the front instead of off to the side... Would that still support well?

68bucks I have no idea how to even set up a linear actuator. I've never actually even heard of one before. LOL. I'm going to google it.

Edit: I googled it and it looks like it would replace the scissor jack.. I'm watching this video now:


To see if I can figure out how to make it work (if I can find one with the motion range I need). Also saw some electric scissor jacks that I'm researching now.


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## zannej (Jun 10, 2021)

It won't let me edit my post now that I've watched a few videos and looked at what I would need.
Thank you so much, @68bucks! The linear actuator may be just what I need. No hand crank. Just need an actuator (I found one with 16" stroke), a 5amp 12v DC power adapter, and a momentary rocker switch.


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## zannej (Jun 11, 2021)

My newest sketches based on the idea of using an actuator. Not to scale of course.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 11, 2021)

Here's how Koala does it. It doesn't show any details on slides.


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## zannej (Jun 11, 2021)

That is helpful Eddie. Looks like some sort of glides on either side of the back. That looks like it would offer better stabilization. So, 2 rods might be worth it. I had some other ideas I was kicking around but got tired. This is what I was thinking of for the setup (not including glides). 
20v 5A power supply with female adapter jack, pre-wired momentary switch, double wire connector (so I don't have to worry about wire nuts falling off), Eco LLC linear actuator with mounting brackets. I believe the power supply is around $11, switch is around $9, 10 pack of wire connectors is around $8 (so I can use them for other things), and actuator is around $40. (That's rounding up). Sales tax will blow though.


It's over $21 for a two pack of rods with the glides and the glides themselves are around $10 each. But I found a single 400mm rod with two mounting brackets and two glides for around $10 and I can get a 2 pack of extra rods for $8 (or I could pay a little extra and get two of the one that comes with all the parts. I might just go with the 2 pack in addition to the single rod in case one rod bends. I will only use the brackets at the top as I intend to put the bottom of the rods on to a shelf with holes drilled a bit in so they sink in enough to be held firmly.



Sorry if I've posted some of the images before. I know this is adding up, but when I consider that the official device for raising and lowering sewing machines is still about $100 more than this setup, it's not as easily used, and doesn't have the same range of motion, this seems like a much better idea.

I'll post the links for my list later.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 11, 2021)

It appears to me that the slides are centered on the shelf holding the machine. Reading about it one side must be a slide and the other a slide and a rack since its a rack and pinion drive. The motor and the pinion apparatus must be mounted on the backside of the wood under the shelf.


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## 68bucks (Jun 12, 2021)

That's another thought, just buy a piece of gear rack and a pinion. Just neeb a little DC motor and a double throw momentary switch. Might be cheaper than a linear actuator.


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## zannej (Jun 12, 2021)

Well, I looked it up and the rack & pinions without motors (some of them just the rack) were more expensive than the actuator.

Eddie, do you think the linear actuator would work if centered behind the platform (back of the desk) and the rails were spread out so they were near the ends? The video showing the use of the product didn't even have any guides. It was just secured to a wall with metal plumbing ties and the mounting brackets.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 12, 2021)

zannej said:


> Well, I looked it up and the rack & pinions without motors (some of them just the rack) were more expensive than the actuator.
> 
> Eddie, do you think the linear actuator would work if centered behind the platform (back of the desk) and the rails were spread out so they were near the ends? The video showing the use of the product didn't even have any guides. It was just secured to a wall with metal plumbing ties and the mounting brackets.


I would be a dangerous advisor on this as I have no experience with actuators.


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## zannej (Jun 12, 2021)

Fair enough. I've decided that I do need tracks for stability and I've looked at different configurations. I may rule out the 8mm rod type because that is awfully thin and I worry the rails might bend too easily. Not only are they thin, but since they are round the glides can pivot on them and have a little too much play.

So, I'm thinking either a 400mm carriage style rail (about $30 for a pair- including glides) or a T-slot rail style used for routers. I could get a 36" and cut it in half so I have a little extra room on the ends (price is around $14) or 2 pack of 24" rails for around $18. The T-slot rails would fit hex heads and T-heads of various kinds. I'd still have to buy the appropriate hardware. My concern with the latter options is that they might not slide well. I know the fancy rails will cost more, but I wonder if they will give better performance.

On the carriage rails the pros: comes with glides, can work vertically or horizontally, glides smoothly, screw holes on outside of rail so they won't conflict with movement.
Cons: More expensive, length just shy of 16", not sure what size screws to use to attach, will have to mount a plate or block to back of glides screwing down in to glides from the back to be able to attach.

T-Rails Pros: less expensive, can be used with multiple different style attachments for glides, allows for Hex-head or T-head clamps to be installed to lock in place, uses fewer screws to attach, can adjust screws/bolts to fit tighter or looser
Cons: No ball-bearing glide options as far as I can tell, not sure how it performs vertically, might have too much movement inside track, screws go inside the track

I admit that I'm tempted to get the carriage rails and a single router rail for the center just so I could add a locking clamp or knob.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 12, 2021)

I'm interested but it is experimental and I would feel bad if I made an actual recommendation and it ended up binding. I did have trouble with hex heads in my T-tracks and I went to these left over connectors from my old formica counter with the long miter joints. Silicone spray may have done the job but I had these lying in sight and they worked.


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## zannej (Jun 12, 2021)

Eddie, those look like they would work. They are similar to the T-Nuts but don't have founded edges. I'm still debating whether or not to get a center rail. I really don't know how the T-rail would work for vertical. I suppose absolute worst case scenario, I could follow the steps of making the hollow legs like I saw in some youtube videos for adjustable tables and put them around the actuator (with holes cut for wires and whatever else is needed).
Ignore the music and see how there are boards inside little boxes that raise and lower


I saw other ones that were larger with square boxes inside. But a waxed board sliding inside a small box seems fairly simple.

I also considered having planter chains extending from ceiling hooks (not actual hooks-- look more like cabinet pulls)-- you know how some of those planter things have 3 chains? I can get a pack that has 2 and have the chains extend to 3 different spots on the sides of the platform and they will all connect to a single point on the underside of the table so if anything slips out of alignment and the table starts to drop, the chains will at least slow the fall. I can secure them with carbiners that are removable, or see if hog rings will work. I have a pack of hog rings in the carport.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 12, 2021)

I forgot that I have access to a pic of the back side. The bolts into the threaded gizmos are eye bolts with knobs to lock them down.


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## zannej (Jun 13, 2021)

My only hesitation with using knob locks is that I'm worried I might forget to unlock them and end up breaking something. LOL.
I don't like that the rails & actuator would seemingly be the only support for the platform so I was thinking of some cheap potted plant hanging chains. 3 chains extend from a single hook on each side. That way if anything ever drops it would at least slow the fall. I could get some ceiling mount thingies that sort of look like cabinet pulls and mount them to the underside of the table and then to the sides of the platform. I could use a better s-hook than the one that comes with them- or a carbiner or even hog rings. I have some hog rings in the carport.



It's cheaper & easier than building an adjustable leg. But the center rail thing with those things for the t-slot might work still. What are they called again? (the thingies that go inside the track)


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## Eddie_T (Jun 13, 2021)

How about sliding bolt latches or something similar?


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## Eddie_T (Jun 13, 2021)

Install on shelf and working into drilled and bushed holes in side walls.


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## zannej (Jun 13, 2021)

Eddie, that's a cool idea. I could have it on either side. Still worried we might forget it's locked. LOL. But I could absolutely have it at the lowest position of the platform. I wish I could figure out a pulley system where the chains would get tighter the higher the platform moves. If I really thought about it I could probably figure it out, but right now my brain isn't cooperating. And I really need to focus more on making sure the glide system would work. I do think that the two glides on the side should work. But I'm debating whether they would be behind the platform or a little off to the sides. I think I want the platform to be about 22"x22" Platform would not be as thick as the tabletop. Maybe I can attach some sort of flat piece of metal that extends sideways (like a metal bar) to support the weight side to side a bit from where the bar attaches.


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## zannej (Jun 16, 2021)

I'm currently pondering the best type of top to have on the table and how thick to make it. Maybe an underlayer of some sort of plywood and some pine boards stuck together with dowels and glue on top I'm thinking of using some sort of hinge or bracket as a guide for the holes for the dowels. I'd have a larger cutout in the boards for the insert. I may already have a sheet of plywood that I can use for the underside. I have maybe 2 or 3 sheets of old plywood lying around.

Then I have to figure out what sort of legs I want. In my head I've kicked around the idea of adjustable height legs that lock in place to raise or lower the table while leaving the sewing machine platform height alone. But I think that would be too awkward. I want to have locking castors on the bottom of the legs.

Something I just thought about: I have some holdrite brackets for 1/2" copper pipe that require sweating the copper (which I didn't realize when I bought them). I believe they do other pipe sizes as well. I could cut them down and put them on the underside of the platform, drilling out the holes in the wood, and running some 1/2" pipes up. I could do PVC pipes around dowels or I could see if there are 1/2" metal rods for cheap enough. Worst case, I could get smaller rods that fit inside PVC and I could put pvc in the holes of the brackets and up through the wood to slide over the rods.


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## zannej (Jun 20, 2021)

I saw a rough-looking desk online and it gave me an idea.



With the right reinforcement on the underside of the side pieces, I should be able to put castors in the center fronts and backs.
Rough sketches:




What do you think?


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## zannej (Jun 23, 2021)

Revised sketches with more shading/color but still about the same. LOL. 



I can't remember if I addressed the breaker issue. I know there are breakers mounted next to the door but it's in a spot where the roof leaks. I don't know if any of the breakers at the house affect the barn's breaker box. I need to see if there is a switch that turns off all the juice to the box so I can take a better look at stuff safely. Water has killed a bunch of the electrical inside the workshop.


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## Eddie_T (Jun 23, 2021)

If the desk is priced right it could save you on both labor and materials.


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## zannej (Jun 24, 2021)

Eddie, I've thought about that but I'm super picky and I haven't seen a decently priced desk out of good materials. I will see if I can get my friend to help me with the breaker situation and see if he can help me run some boards through to plane them. If I can use lumber I already have, it will end up cheaper than anything I can buy in the store.

I'm determined to build this. LOL.


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## zannej (Jul 30, 2022)

I plan to design it in Sketchup but I have other things to focus on first. This is back burner right now.


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