# best way to support roof planking overhanging at gable



## paulmars (May 24, 2017)

My 1952 block house roof does not have outriggers, as shown in 1st pic. So nothing will hold my planking down during a hurricane. This is a weak point.

Im adding H10S hurricane straps at the eaves, a mechanically seamed HVHZ metal panel roof. Ive added rafter and collar ties and gable supports in the attic.

During the roof job, I will be adding screws to reinforce the planking where it attaches to the rafters.

I dont want to remove planking and add outriggers during the roof job for several reasons, so Im looking for another way to strengthen the gable overhangs. Not having to do it at the same time as the roof job would be good.

the only idea that i have come up with so far is using 2x4s attached to the edge of the fascia, and going below the soffet. This 2x4 attached to a vertical 2x4 and both held together with an angled 2x4. As shown.

Drawing notes. I have not shown fasteners that hold the three 2x4s together.I also did not show hidden lines. I have also shown a single fastener at each fasten point (3). However, I would likely use two side by side at each fasten point.

Additional note I would need the 2x4 under the soffet to be at the same angle as the roof (4/12)

Additional note. Im not sure which would be stronger A or B.

Drawings Not to scale.

Questions, ideas?

outrigger net pic: https://imgur.com/a/aRomO

my gable wall: https://imgur.com/a/MKj1p

my gable wall corner: https://imgur.com/a/AKMLV

my support idea: https://imgur.com/a/Mr8sn

tks,
pa 
central florida


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## nealtw (May 24, 2017)

paulmars said:


> My 1952 block house roof does not have outriggers, as shown in 1st pic. So nothing will hold my planking down during a hurricane. This is a weak point.
> 
> Im adding H10S hurricane straps at the eaves, a mechanically seamed HVHZ metal panel roof. Ive added rafter and collar ties and gable supports in the attic.
> 
> ...



The only time we see look outs like the one in picture ! is when the look out is close to 2 ft, more often it is built like a ladder on the side of the gable or the liner and fascia is just hung off the sheeting.

What you have drawn as a fix is a good one. We can buy them from the lumber yards up here. they are usually cedar 3x3s or 4x4s and notched together like timber framing. 
If I can find a photo I will post it.


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## nealtw (May 24, 2017)

Like this.


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## paulmars (May 25, 2017)

nealtw said:


> What you have drawn as a fix is a good one. We can buy them from the lumber yards up here. they are usually cedar 3x3s or 4x4s and notched together like timber framing.
> If I can find a photo I will post it.



What are they called? Can I buy them online? Lumber yards here I've never seen them. Occasionally I see these added to houses here, which is where I got the idea. Only thing is that they were added to stop the over hand from sagging down. Mine dont sag and importantly Im adding this to stop the over hang from lifting up during 200 MPH winds. Big difference in application. So, they need to be stronger.


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## nealtw (May 25, 2017)

paulmars said:


> What are they called? Can I buy them online? Lumber yards here I've never seen them. Occasionally I see these added to houses here, which is where I got the idea. Only thing is that they were added to stop the over hand from sagging down. Mine dont sag and importantly Im adding this to stop the over hang from lifting up during 200 MPH winds. Big difference in application. So, they need to be stronger.



I found this, never sure what they are called 
https://www.prowoodmarket.com/

You could add black steel to the sides to make them strong and use some kind of ties to tie them to the fasia then bolt them thru the gable and add something like a chunk of timber in there to bolt to.,,, Maybe


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## Snoonyb (May 25, 2017)

You should be able to find a lumber yard that has or can order milling.

Architecturally a corbel similar in design to the photo in post #3 can be milled, an the legs can be adjusted to fit behind your fascia, for attachment.

The can also mill the top to 18.5 degrees to fit your roof pitch, you just need to provide the number you want milled in each direction.


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## paulmars (May 27, 2017)

maybe this galvanized finish https://imgur.com/a/Le1DF


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## nealtw (May 28, 2017)

Perhaps with a couple 45* and brace back to the wall.


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## Gary (May 29, 2017)

Around here we call them corbels. Well corbels are more of a decorative solid block I suppose, but they serve the same purpose. I made some of those on the CNC a few years ago. They supplied the lumber, so I don't remember what it was. Cypress I think. The supplier had a lumber yard with exotic woods. Sadly that handy store is no more. I really miss having all types of wood just a 10 minute drive away.


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## nealtw (May 29, 2017)

Gary said:


> Around here we call them corbels. Well corbels are more of a decorative solid block I suppose, but they serve the same purpose. I made some of those on the CNC a few years ago. They supplied the lumber, so I don't remember what it was. Cypress I think. The supplier had a lumber yard with exotic woods. Sadly that handy store is no more. I really miss having all types of wood just a 10 minute drive away.



The trouble with allt hat stuff, it is designed to hold the roof up, he wants to hold it down.
Will any of these brackets 10' or 12' apart protect the fasia from wind lift.


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## oldognewtrick (May 29, 2017)

We've always called the brackets "outriggers" round here.


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## Snoonyb (May 29, 2017)

Would it then not be the method of attachment, and being smarter than what you are working on?


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## nealtw (May 29, 2017)

I think best practice is to keep the gable over hang, less than 12" so maybe just cutting some off would be the most efficient thing to do.


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## Gary (May 29, 2017)

nealtw said:


> The trouble with allt hat stuff, it is designed to hold the roof up, he wants to hold it down.
> Will any of these brackets 10' or 12' apart protect the fasia from wind lift.



I would think any type of bracket would be better than no support at all. But then again, if we're talking 200MPH wind as the OP mentioned, there may be more to worry about than just the overhang. We had an EF3 tornado a couple years ago, they say topped out at around 165MPH. We had 2 houses about a block from us that were picked up and tossed about 1/4 mile into the field across the street. They were both 2 story with no overhang at all on the gable ends & about 12" at the eves. They were relatively new homes 15-20 yrs. Nothing left but the foundation and deck.


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## nealtw (May 29, 2017)

Gary said:


> I would think any type of bracket would be better than no support at all. But then again, if we're talking 200MPH wind as the OP mentioned, there may be more to worry about than just the overhang. We had an EF3 tornado a couple years ago, they say topped out at around 165MPH. We had 2 houses about a block from us that were picked up and tossed about 1/4 mile into the field across the street. They were both 2 story with no overhang at all on the gable ends & about 12" at the eves. They were relatively new homes 15-20 yrs. Nothing left but the foundation and deck.



I think this OP has ben looking at everything, see his other posts.


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