# Plan for removing Fiberboard Wall Board



## dmalooly (Apr 18, 2017)

Hi Guys,

So I recently purchased a home, and after moving in and trying to install a picture frame I realized that the walls are not drywall, but are instead made of really thick cardboard! :down:  (interesting, because the home inspection says "drywall").  The home is a tiny rancher from 1958, that was built for returning Korean War veterans. Previous owner tells me that two rooms had their ceilings collapse while he lived there! 

Anyway The cardboard walls can't hold even a picture frame and i think they have a little bit of a musty smell....  so i'm going to replace everything in the house with drywall.  It's only 2 bedrooms and is 750 square feet so at least it's a small home

my plan is basically as follows:
 1. Tear ceilings & walls off and let old insulation fall.
 2.  Bag up all insulation & cardboard walls and haul to dump
 3.  get an electrician to look over the wiring in the house
 4.  put fiberglass insulation bats in place from below
 5.  cover everything back up with drywall


I had a insulation expert come out and tell me that the attic insulation is cellulose and not an asbestos hazard (but maybe i should test it anyway?)

what do you all think?!


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## oldognewtrick (Apr 18, 2017)

When you have all the demo out, weather seal any gap to prevent air infiltration. Also, check gaps around doors and in windows.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 18, 2017)

Welcome!

Blown in cellulose is a paper product and the likelihood that the wiring is Knob and Tube is remote, so that's a plus for the electrical, however ask the electrician about the type and size of the service and the interior grounding.

The wall covering is probably celotex so be cognizant of the thickness in your replacement material.

Also, do your plans include the kitchen and upgrading the elec. there as well?


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## dmalooly (Apr 18, 2017)

oldognewtrick said:


> When you have all the demo out, weather seal any gap to prevent air infiltration. Also, check gaps around doors and in windows.



Good Idea!



Snoonyb said:


> Welcome!
> 
> Blown in cellulose is a paper product and the likelihood that the wiring is Knob and Tube is remote, so that's a plus for the electrical, however ask the electrician about the type and size of the service and the interior grounding.
> 
> ...



Also a good idea about the grounding!

The kitchen has new appliances and i think the house has fairly sound electrical overall.  It is completely electric including baseboard heat.  I will be updating the kitchen but it will extremely limited in scope (keep existing tile, replace lower cabinets, keep all appliances, replace upper cabinets with open shelving)

what do you mean about keeping the thickness in mind?  should i only replace the celotex with an equally thin material such as 1/4" drywall?  The studs are not 2x4's they are a bit smaller


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## Snoonyb (Apr 18, 2017)

Thanks.

If the wall material is that thin and the studs are smaller, then you can shim the studs to a level plane with the door and window jambs, use milcore to stop the drywall at the doors and windows.

What is your climate zone and are you addressing the wall insulation?


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## dmalooly (Apr 18, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Thanks.
> 
> If the wall material is that thin and the studs are smaller, then you can shim the studs to a level plane with the door and window jambs, use milcore to stop the drywall at the doors and windows.
> 
> What is your climate zone and are you addressing the wall insulation?



I am in zone 7a or 7b, i can't remember which one.. hot humid summers and winters which are pretty cold also.  I'm in western Maryland

i was planning on using insulation batting for the exterior walls and no vapor barrier.  I've heard there's a lot of mixed opinions on vapor barriers and I know there isn't one now and i don't want to create a mold issue when there isn't one already.

what do you all think?


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## Snoonyb (Apr 18, 2017)

You can use batt insulation, however with wall cavity under 3.5" you'll be relegated to an R-8, while your climate zone recommends R-21.

Increasing the cavity depth to 3.5" only achieves space for an R-13.

Ceilings are an R-49 and with scrupulous caulking and weatherstripping you can probably attain an acceptable comfort level.

You may also entertain changing the glazing to dual or triple glazed.

It becomes a cost-benefit analysis between the structure and the comfort heat plant.


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## joecaption (Apr 18, 2017)

No location in your profile so hard for anyone to give the needed suggestion on what's needed.
https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table
Baseboard heating by far is the most expencive type heating you can have in most areas.
No A/C needed?
I also own an 800 sq. ft. home I rent out and went from window A/C units and a baseboard heaters and switched to a minisplit HVAC unit and my utility bill bill was cut by 2/3 rd's.
If it's that poorly constructed then my guess is you also need need new windows which is one of the biggest heat and cooling loss areas.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 18, 2017)

joecaption said:


> No location in your profile so hard for anyone to give the needed suggestion on what's needed.



See post #6.


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## nealtw (Apr 18, 2017)

I would add 2x3s to the framing of the outside walls, making the walls thick enough to insulate.


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## dmalooly (Apr 19, 2017)

hmm as much as i would like to properly insulate i don't want to make the room smaller or have to do the extra work lol

Do the cardboard walls ever pose an asbestos risk?  I had the inside of the home tested for lead paint and it was negative but idk about the wall material.

if it is asbestos I'm probably screwed because there are a million nail holes and exposed portions in the house.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 19, 2017)

If it is as I suspect, Celotex, it does not contain asbestos.


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## nealtw (Apr 19, 2017)

dmalooly said:


> hmm as much as i would like to properly insulate i don't want to make the room smaller or have to do the extra work lol
> 
> Do the cardboard walls ever pose an asbestos risk?  I had the inside of the home tested for lead paint and it was negative but idk about the wall material.
> 
> if it is asbestos I'm probably screwed because there are a million nail holes and exposed portions in the house.



No if it is the stuff I am thinking it is, it is just a wood product.


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## dmalooly (Apr 22, 2017)

This is the stuff.  A piece I found in a closet.

Is this celotex?


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## Snoonyb (Apr 22, 2017)

Yes, it appear to be be what passed as fiber board or celotex and cobbled together as a wall covering.


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## nealtw (Apr 23, 2017)

They use it for sound proofing up here, it is the same stuff as ceiling tile.


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## dmalooly (Apr 24, 2017)

should i test it for asbestos or am i just wasting $50?

thanks for your guys help by the way!





here's a nother shot from that closet


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## Snoonyb (Apr 24, 2017)

Don't waste your money.

It's a composite material similar in assembly to that of todays drywall, with the material as its own binder, not asbestos.


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