# Is this a weight bearing wall?



## coachgeo (Sep 21, 2013)

pictures attached are of home and a closet before and after initial tear down.

Closet is in addition to original home built in the 60's.  While it does not make since that this wall is weight bearing to me...... it does have a header.  So could it be part of what holds up the roof of the addition? Nothing but rafters above it?  Neither the original structure or the addition have a ridge beam.

Chimney in the outside picture gives a hint of location of closet.  It is against the original structures outer wall (now an interior wall) You can see brick/block chimney in the picture of closet w/sheet rock removed

*Don't want to tear out wood construction with out making sure it's not weight bearing.* 

Tiny Wood Heater/Stove will go in what picture shows as interior of closet; but all of that I hope to remove. SS liner going into the old chimney that was originally for an oil furnace.  Appears that after furnace removal the box around it was converted to a closet except for a box around the chimney.  I want look of ruff/old thus the desire to keep chimney exposed.  Eventually may add faux rock on the chimney to match era of log siding to be done on interior/exterior.  Will be Amish look of flat side honed log and chinking.


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## coachgeo (Sep 21, 2013)

oh and thanks for any help in advance.

Side note......... hope to vault the ceilings as well and add a small lofted child's bedroom. Maybe loft the bed in the existing bedroom as well.


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## CallMeVilla (Sep 21, 2013)

If you can access the attic area above the closet, you can easily determine if the framing is BEARING.  If the framing runs parallel to the ceiling joists, the wall is not bearing, it is called a partition wall.

I see a typical double top plate framing and a third stud (new) to fram out the closet opening.  Makes me think this is just a built-out closet.

If the framing runs perpendicular to the joists, it might be bearing.  You will often see a header or a larger structure to support the upper weight.  You will also see doubled 2x4s on the ends, sometimes 4x4 and a 2x4 to carry the weight down to the foundation.  In your pciture, I see single stud framing attached to the double top plate, again suggesting this is a partition wall.

Oh, and if your single story house is built with trusses in the attic, the interior walls typically will not be load bearing either.  That geometry carries the weight to the outside walls.

Can't wait to see what your attic search shows you!


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## coachgeo (Sep 21, 2013)

Can't get up in attic right now but yes this runs parallel to ceiling joist (from wall to wall) and nothing is above it in the attic.  Course the closet just happens to run same direction as joist.  Granted the two ends that are perpendicular do NOT have any header at all so that lends to thinking it is build out walls. 

Figured as well the newer 2x4 portion of the header was added when reconfiguring the space to closet. 

Should have stated earlier but.......... the one vertical on right side of closet in the pic not yet with gypsum board removed is doubled 2x4


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## CallMeVilla (Sep 21, 2013)

If nothing is above then that is a partition wall.  Your trick is vaulting the ceiling  ...  I would drop the ceiling inside the closet to get a clear view of the framing and to plan your vaulting.  Just leave the framing in place in the rare and astounding case that I am wrong (which does happen).  Drywall is easy to fix  ... collapsed houses are not.


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## coachgeo (Sep 21, 2013)

CallMeVilla said:


> If nothing is above then that is a partition wall.  Your trick is vaulting the ceiling  ...  I would drop the ceiling inside the closet to get a clear view of the framing and to plan your vaulting.  Just leave the framing in place in the rare and astounding case that I am wrong (which does happen).  Drywall is easy to fix  ... collapsed houses are not.


The crawl opening to the ceiling is actually inside that closet.  I've been up there all ready which is how I know there is no Ridge beam.  

Up there is standard Im guessing 18" apart joist from wall to wall with insulating bats between.  Then of course rafters that hold up the roof. Nothing vertical from joist to rafter.

Wood roof is killer solid. Looks like 2x8 construction. Maybe for snow loads? Probably plywood above that before shingles? Guess it could just be tar paper then shingles?  If Im not mistaken the joist can be moved up the rafters at the most 1/3 the distance from roof peak that they sit now?  Or I can add a ridge beam some how and remove the Rafters?


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## CallMeVilla (Sep 22, 2013)

NO, you cannot remove the rafters.  You can frame your vaulted ceiling up to the rafters then inmstall collar ties to stabilize the rafters.  You will have to insulate and cover the rafter bay.  Think of the vaulted ceiling in just the bedroom as you might a light shaft for a skylight  ... only larger and no roof penetration.  It requires localized framing.

If you cut out the ceiling joists to create a clear space, you will have to reframe support around the cutout section to create the open space for the vaulting.

Look here for some ideas:  http://blog.armchairbuilder.com/6051/vaulted-ceiling-precautions/


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## nealtw (Sep 22, 2013)

Before cutting any framing in the ceiling or roof package, take pictures ask questions, ask some more questions. develope a plan and then ask some more questions.
And hit the like button for Villa before he starts begging again.


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## coachgeo (Sep 22, 2013)

nealtw said:


> Before cutting any framing in the ceiling or roof package, take pictures ask questions, ask some more questions. develope a plan and then ask some more questions.
> And hit the like button for Villa before he starts begging again.


I will do nothing with out some engineering drawings done first.


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## coachgeo (Sep 22, 2013)

CallMeVilla said:


> NO, you cannot remove the rafters. ...
> If you cut out the ceiling joists to create a clear space, you will have to reframe support around the cutout section to create the open space for the vaulting.
> 
> Look here for some ideas:  http://blog.armchairbuilder.com/6051/vaulted-ceiling-precautions/


 will look at the link. I may have miss used words. Is not rafters what the roof is nailed to (what runs up at an angle) so of course I would not remove these.   Joist run from wall to wall and this is what must be removed to vault........ and then of course some structural changes done to accommodate removed joist.  It was my understanding original joist could be removed and moved up deeper into the ceiling at a distance no more than 1/3 higher up the rafter's than they were in the first place.  

I just like to get full understanding of things before asking a pro like an engineer to draw things up.  That way I ask right questions and can steer them in direction I really want to go so I don't end up with something not like I really wanted.


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## nealtw (Sep 22, 2013)

This is a good read about this.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/qa/framing-cathedral-ceiling.aspx


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## coachgeo (Sep 22, 2013)

nealtw said:


> This is a good read about this.
> http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/qa/framing-cathedral-ceiling.aspx


Thanx...... yeah that is the one and others similar I found the most informative.  As that shows...... 1/3 the way up from typical joist location (x in the drawing) is what I mentioned earlier where one would put the new joist (collar tie).




Good thing is that Sandwiching AKA doubling collar ties allowing for every third.  I had forgotten about that.  




I wonder if it would allow for going every 4th or 5th rafter if you did an even stronger collar tie say double like shown as well as boxing in with another board on top and bottom. Followed by a triangulation to top of wall a little to each side; to spread this stronger collar's affects on the outer wall,   This would be to my advantage cause it would look way less busy up there in that small space with less collar ties.  I think my joinst are 18" on center........ a bit over kill.  Also  I want to loft a tiny sleeping loft in a portion of that cathedral space so those joist will be strengthened turning them into floor beams as well.  Loft would basically center on the the *outer wall of original structure resulting in loft sitting with 1/2 of it above the addition and 1/2 above the original structure. It would be about 8" deep (red in picture)........ so yeah tiny. Could add header into walls of orginal structure to make them more "structural" and less divider walls to increase ability to hold up loft.

* in this case outer wall of original structure refered to here is now also an inner wall inside of addition





 I've already looked and it appears I have a ridge board but not a ridge BEAM nor POST inside the wall too the foundation.  (pier and beam foundation)





Moderator.......... feel free to dissect out the discussion in this thread on cathedral/vaulted ceiling and start a new thread with it.


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## nealtw (Sep 22, 2013)

We did one that looked more like a vaulted truss when it was done. The joist ran from the wall on one side to about half way on the opposing rafter, looked good and worked well for insulation and venting. There was an engineer involved.


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## coachgeo (Sep 22, 2013)

nealtw said:


> We did one that looked more like a vaulted truss when it was done. The joist ran from the wall on one side to about half way on the opposing rafter, looked good and worked well for insulation and venting. There was an engineer involved.


that looks interesting.  Every rafter or every third orrr?  Do you know if you had a ridge "beam" with end supports to foundation or just a ridge board?


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## nealtw (Sep 22, 2013)

There was a ridge board but it was not supported, so all the weight was on the walls.


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## coachgeo (Sep 23, 2013)

nealtw said:


> There was a ridge board but it was not supported, so all the weight was on the walls.


Vewy Intawesting; THANKS.

Was that arrangement  on every rafter or did it skip any. 

 I'm assuming all original cross joist were removed.

Did you attach new ceiling onto those angled cross ties??  or did you leave it open/visable?


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## coachgeo (Sep 23, 2013)

scissor trust look interesting. Apparently used in home pictured below along with some Faux beefy timber ones added for "look".  Though in my case this would not work as well cause I'll need full height of roof to make most use of lofted bed


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## nealtw (Sep 23, 2013)

That created the new ceiling so it was every one to hold up the drywall.


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## coachgeo (Sep 23, 2013)

nealtw said:


> That created the new ceiling so it was every one to hold up the drywall.


OK -  Thanx


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## guyod (Sep 23, 2013)

Did you measure the ceiling height in the attic.  You said you wanted to create a loft but i only see about 5' of ceiling height at the peak. After you build down the rafters to insulation need min of 9.5 inches it might be even more where you live. Then you will have to add floor joists that can span the width of the house.  If your lucky a 2x12 may work . Its going to be alot of work for something an 8 year old will not be able to stand up in.  
If it was me I would take the whole roof off and create a single roof plane making your deck a covered deck.  This will give you the ceiling height for a real bedroom. You can use a mix of trusses that will frame out the bedroom for half of it and a cathedral for the other half.


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## coachgeo (Sep 23, 2013)

guyod said:


> Did you measure the ceiling height in the attic.  You said you wanted to create a loft but i only see about 5' of ceiling height at the peak. After you build down the rafters to insulation need min of 9.5 inches it might be even more where you live. Then you will have to add floor joists that can span the width of the house.  If your lucky a 2x12 may work . Its going to be alot of work for something an 8 year old will not be able to stand up in.
> If it was me I would take the whole roof off and create a single roof plane making your deck a covered deck.  This will give you the ceiling height for a real bedroom.


thanx but that is impossibly outside my budget.  Budget is one reason for a Micro Home design aim in this project. Home is tiny...... only like 650sq feet now. 





> You can use a mix of trusses that will frame out the bedroom for half of it and a cathedral for the other half.


Yeah that is one idea. Guess reality says I have to go with putting ceiling right on the rafter's.. maybe with a fir strip added to get correct depth for insulation??  Have exposed collar ties.   Also this has a sharp peak....... I'd say 7 foot peak above rafter right now. Hipe Im not wrong on the height.  I'll get further up there and measure and do pics.  Attic area is totally open with nothing between joist and rafter.  

Standing is not a MUST have either if it is thought of as a sleeping loft or office loft......... climb up and sit or lay.  Arrange it to where your top of climb puts you right onto bed or chair.   Not much different than the way a home is designed for wheelchair bound folk when it comes to everything being designed to work from a sitting situation.  Yeah....... Im not afraid to think and do outside the box.


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## guyod (Sep 23, 2013)

Looking closer i see you only have 7' ceiling on the ground floor. No wonder why you want cathedral ceilings. I had 7' ceilings, I couldnt stand it.  I had to blow off the roof.  
Im surprised you have 7 feet in the attic.  
I wouldnt call the inspector on this project. There is min heights for a finished attics 

In the cathedral part i dont think having raised collar ties every 3rd rafter will look bad.  Stain it or paint it white and it will add some character


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## coachgeo (Sep 23, 2013)

guyod said:


> ....Im surprised you have 7 feet in the attic.
> I wouldnt call the inspector on this project. There is min heights for a finished attics


  I hope my eyes are seeing right.  Will measure soon.  Damn regulations........ hope they dont totally screw me up on this.  It's NOT a "finished" attic.  Just an overbuilt storage loft?  Might be better way to go about it so they don't require stairs.  Just want a ladder.  Old school.......... Log cabin appeal. Little house on the Prairie thing.



> In the cathedral part i dont think having raised collar ties every 3rd rafter will look bad.  Stain it or paint it white and it will add some character


 If not stain then I'd box them in and put faux log on them. Maybe I can use ruff cut lumber for the Collar's and stain that? The interior & outer walls getting matching log siding.  Ceiling??? maybe panelling so it looks like actual interior side of wood of roof??


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## coachgeo (Sep 28, 2013)

Well I'm an idiot. Yep in the attic it is only about 4.5 feet from top of joist to roof at the peak. The slope of the roof makes it impractical to put the usable area of a loft anywhere but dead center to the peak/room.

Tried to take pics but phone's flash could not light up total darkness.

Joist- 16" apart and are 2x6

Rafters- 16" apart except a few which may be to accommodate for  total dimension nondivisable by 16"? or something to do with that being area of chimney thru roof?  They are all 2x6 as well.

Is that over built spacing?  Will that cause issues (good or bad) with Vaulting when it comes to the possibility of using double collar ties and skipping some as addressed earlier?  

Roof is 1x12 boards

Will have to do something creative for example in bedroom; Vault the ceiling and lower the loft floor in one section large enough for bed/or office. Underneath is drawers etc. or desk w/roll chair (so no need to stand).  

Other option is vault ceiling in bedroom and add a "pull down from ceiling type bed"..  except it pulls down only a foot or two and you climb into it as if it was a loft. "pull down loft?" Below that would be office? (so again with rolling chair no need to stand if bed in lower position? Trying to create "perception" of openness in a small space with loft like design as well as accommodate for GF or Spouse who may want to stay up later than the other. 




Not sure how to to do second sleeping space with such low attic space.  Can't really set up to drop the loft height anywhere else but bedroom cause moving thru the house you would hit your head on it; like in the middle of the night on the way to the bathroom.

Except......... hmmm???. Drop or fold down single bed over the washing machine and dryer.  This is a nook that is on outside wall of the kitchen space. Nook created cause of carving out bathroom space into the square footage of kitchen area.  One wall basically bisects the original house separating it into two rooms.  One is the bedroom. Other is the kitchen/bathroom.  

Remember the area discussed previously for lofting in other post was is the addition living room space. Needing to have usable loft height means loft would run awkward in that space IMHO

hmmmmmmm.  For width would require removing one section of kitchen cabinets.   For height; since it is on outer wall, thus requiring 3 foot or so drop........ would require folding or drop down bed and removing/modifying the hot water heater which is taller than W/Dryer.  go tankless?  Space is approx. 5'x8' after removing the kitchen cabinets shown.







 Open to ideas


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## nealtw (Sep 29, 2013)

You may want to look at some campers and trailers and how they sneak things into small areas.


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## coachgeo (Sep 29, 2013)

nealtw said:


> You may want to look at some campers and trailers and how they sneak things into small areas.


I've done that far more than most.  Lived in 16ft RV thru much of college and Grad. school and camped in them with family monthly prior to that since about age 9yr


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## guyod (Sep 29, 2013)

I don't know how your bathroom is laid out but can you access the washer and dryer from the bathroom if you Flip them around. if so you can box in the washer dryer hot water heater from the nook side and put a bet on top. If you have room maybe that can be your office too.
Another option would be to add small addition closet for the washer  dryer and  hot water heater. I bet the cost of materials  would be close to that of a tankless hot water heater.


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## coachgeo (Sep 29, 2013)

guyod said:


> I don't know how your bathroom is laid out but can you access the washer and dryer from the bathroom if you Flip them around. if so you can box in the washer dryer hot water heater from the nook side and put a bet on top. If you have room maybe that can be your office too.


  Had grow on me a little but after some deeper contemplation...... I Like your direction.  Intawesting hmmm



> Another option would be to add small addition closet for the washer  dryer and  hot water heater. I bet the cost of materials  would be close to that of a tankless hot water heater.


 Yeah a portable shed outside is an idea that hit me for this. Would require full cold snow weather insulation and heating or you would avoid washing anything in the winter due too it being to cold to tackle a task you hate doing anyway.  You could freeze dry your clothes maybe?


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## coachgeo (Sep 29, 2013)

Thinking deeper on the idea of relocating things in the nook area and/or an addition to house them....... how about both?

Stack the washer dryer in the bathroom. Move the hot water heater outside into a small tall box that is Super Insulated. (hot water freezes easier)

Turn nook into high bed with wardrobe below.  Would remove need to vault kitchen area which I didnt want to do.  Really only wanted to vault living room area and bedroom.

There is again an avenue not yet explored and that is a trap door with a bed and wardrobe below.  This is a pier and beam home.

Also another thing that could open other doors (pardon the pun)  but could also move the bedroom door back to its original location which  was in the wall separating the kitchen from the bedroom.  It was moved at some point when the addition was added.


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## nealtw (Sep 29, 2013)

Can you give us dementions of the rooms and how many people.


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## coachgeo (Sep 29, 2013)

Pink is porch.  this is off county website so only outer dimensions are shown.  At work now. Will late tonight redraw with interior walls

Planning for adult couple and a child.   I have to upgrade toward that goal in order to redo financing with a bank by Sept. 2015 so I can pay off the balance to the present owners whom is financing at this time. Banks would not finance it cause of several reasons with the largest being there is ZERO single bed homes in the area thus they have no comparables in order to  create a value to base a loan on.


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## nealtw (Sep 29, 2013)

I think you have to have a better understanding of what the bank will need for you to qualify the house for a loan. In newer homes (bigger) they often have what they call flex rooms that would be plenty big enough for a bed room but do not have a door for privicy, a closet and an egress window. You can sleep anyware you want but the bank likely is talking about a second bedroom with all the requirements. I would start with a letter of understanding with more than one loan company on what they would find acceptable.


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## guyod (Sep 29, 2013)

I did the same thing in my last house its a lot easier to refianace than getting a mortgage.  
If that is you main concern  for the bank. Then make sure that 2nd bedroom is at least 70 square feet.  That is the min for bedroom.  You can leave washer and drier in there then when the appraiser comes take them and hide the hookups with a piece of furniture.


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## nealtw (Sep 29, 2013)

Thanks guyod, I hadn't herd min. size before. Just for getting the loan a temp wall dividing the bedroom would likely be enough, perhaps another window. I would do something like that and plan for an addition after the sale. Like building where the deck is and a bonus room could be built in to the new roof line.


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## coachgeo (Sep 29, 2013)

If my plans go right......... One thing Im shooting to add value to this  land/home package nearly instantly for a minimal cost is I am adding a Micro Home with a value of approx $20,000 onto the land.  Bank may consider it a Mobile-home/Modular home or may not cause though it is NOT modular construction; it is transported on wheels to location. Who knows then what they will call it.  So in the house we have been discussing I "may" not HAVE to meet the second bedroom need for improving odds of getting bank financing in 2015

It is SOLID "real" 12'x20' LOG construction home. Each Log is 4"thick and 8" in height w/chinking. Comes with a high quality Metal Roof. Not metal "mobile home roof"....... but "Residential" Metal roof.  To purchase same unit new it is $47,000 so no it is NOT one of those side of the road storage units that look like fake log cabins you can tow with your dually truck into your back yard.  This one is approx 6 years old.   Full kitchen and 1/2 bath.  I already own it.  It is going to cost me approx $10,000 though to move it from it's location in TX to here in OH. I move it here over Xmass break coming up.    Adding an addition to this home here will cost way over 10 grand cause it would HAVE to be done via contractors and not by me even though I'ld get all proper permits. Already got estimates.  Just adding a roof to the porch was estimated at 10grand.

Also by time Im refinancing I will have had 3 years of steady employment.  Before that I was homeless nearly 3 years trying to find work after the economy crushed the business I dreamed and saved to start for thirty years. Banks obviously didn't like that work history so could not get traditional or even FHA home long.  They didn't care that I used EVERYTHING (but the cabin itself and a few Diesel Motorcycle project parts) to keep the biz open for 4 years till I had nothing left. Went thru approx quarter million dollars out of pocket trying to keep the biz open.  So Im a little stubborn.  

Finally gave up and left TX to find work.  There were only 3 full time jobs in my coaching field in the whole eastern US.  None of them in TX.  Been doing the same career since I was a young teen.  Added a BS with four college degree areas and MA work in Biomechanics/Motorlearning holding myself to higher standard of academic preparation to be professional in the science of coaching gymnastic sports..  sorry....... got long winded....... 

Any way point is; chose to finance this particular small home here in OH, cause one; it is on one acre thus having _room to add the cabin_ which gives me instant increased value. Two; After remodelling this little home it will match well with the rustic Log home living  Im shooting for. Add a barn (shop/garage with barn look) and I'll be in fat heaven)  Price was under 40 grand so that helped too. A hidden gem. Another plus to this location in OH.   It is in good driving distance of several colleges with reputable nursing/medical school programs

So yes the home we have been discussing about vaulted ceilings lofting etc. will eventually get siding interior/exterior  to match the cabin as well as metal roof.  Hopefully can roll that into the financing in 2015.  High quality log cabin siding (ruff honed flat Amish Log pine look with white chink between logs.)  This will match the cabin's look though it is true log construction.   I will rent out cabin to college students.  Much Later in life I will trade a nursing student or nursing student w/small family room and board in the home to be my care taker. I will live in the cabin.  .  Least that is the thinking.


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## nealtw (Sep 29, 2013)

Boy that is quite a story, any chance of backing the cabin up to the house and calling it a bedroom.


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## coachgeo (Sep 29, 2013)

nealtw said:


> Boy that is quite a story, any chance of backing the cabin up to the house and calling it a bedroom.


When I tried FHA financing they said NO but Im still unsure.  That was my original thought too though doing it that way also does not fit as well with the idea of renting it out nor trading for medical attendant in distant future.  What college student or  small young family wants to "live" with an old man lol.  (Im 51 now)


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## guyod (Sep 29, 2013)

Its good to hear your back on track.  I like your plan and have debated doing something similar.  There is so many laws and regulations doing it legally is sometimes impossible or too expensive. Its not the bank that determines if your cabin is mobile or modular its the township. What ever they stamp on your tax record is what it is to the bank. You would need a proper foundation for the town to even consider it being a permanent structure. There is zoning, code laws, well and septic electrical issues. I would talk to your local inspector sooner than later. You may find out that its best to cut your loses and sell the cabin in TX.


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## coachgeo (Sep 29, 2013)

guyod said:


> Its good to hear your back on track.  I like your plan and have debated doing something similar.  There is so many laws and regulations doing it legally is sometimes impossible or too expensive. Its not the bank that determines if your cabin is mobile or modular its the township. What ever they stamp on your tax record is what it is to the bank. You would need a proper foundation for the town to even consider it being a permanent structure. There is zoning, code laws, well and septic electrical issues. I would talk to your local inspector sooner than later. You may find out that its best to cut your loses and sell the cabin in TX.


Zoning allows modulars in this area. Already verified.  An "oversized" for this house On site sewage system (septic tank/leach field) was installed 3 or 4 years ago and "should" allow for adding cabin to it without much fuss.   Cabin was desinged for RV park installation as a rental unit there for it simply "Plugs in" to a 220v outlet.  2003 remodel of house had 220v power line brought into house. Split off 110 in the rewire of home. Not sure if they did half the house on one leg of 110 and other half as other leg?  That is how cabin is done I know that. Anyway sounds then like electrical hook up should be relatively easy with a 220 line already present. A single drain 6" septic drain pipe from cabin too septic tank should suffice as well.  The over kill  of 220V and septic in the remodel is another reasons I set out to purchase this house.

but your right....... I should do further clarification ASAP.  I HAVE to move the cabin by Jan. 1st no matter what.

Do counties keep permit records?  Should I not be able to look up all the permits and associated drawings connected to the changes in septic and remodel in 2003?  Remodel was basically a full restoration of the home.


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## guyod (Sep 30, 2013)

I don't doubt you can put the cabin on your property. I was questioning making it a legal apartment.  You can't just park Rvs, mobile homes, or cabins on your property and rent them out. There is zoning and code laws you need to find out. You can always do an illegal rental but trying to evict a tentant for not paying on an illegal rental could be ...awkward in court.


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## coachgeo (Sep 30, 2013)

guyod said:


> I don't doubt you can put the cabin on your property. I was questioning making it a legal apartment.  You can't just park Rvs, mobile homes, or cabins on your property and rent them out. There is zoning and code laws you need to find out. You can always do an illegal rental but trying to evict a tentant for not paying on an illegal rental could be ...awkward in court.


Thanks......... was not aware of zoning rental issues.  Will check.  This is not a wealthy newish high dollar home area. It's not a run down area either.  1/5 ? of the homes are rentals though and there is an old still in operation Mobile home park up the road with "old" RV and mobile homes on it in use.  So I have doubt those restrictions exist "here" but one should not "assume"


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## gottodo1 (Oct 9, 2013)

Call me Villa's picture shows it done correctly. and that's not a bad link either. Just be careful with the roof, it is the thing above your head, sounds like you've got a plan though and getting a good 3d model done of the house is the key. THE FIRST thing I did when I bought my house since I didn't get the blueprints (still bitter) is build a PRO-E 3D model of the house so I knew where everything was. I do that of every house I buy, well except Condos that'd be pointless. I then guessed at wiring locations etc, it has come in handy quite a bit since I've done so much work on the home. I also make notes on things as I go. 

I took a thermal camera into my house and saw a cold wall that partitioned a 8ft ceiling to a vaulted ceiling. A few months later I went up in the attic for some other stuff saw a note about it and went over to where it was... The previous owner had run a new wire for a fan and didn't bother to put insulation up against the drywall where he had moved it away. Also left a blanket and a pillow... The only attic access is from the roof so it's crazy to think he would go up there with blown insulation and sleep but... why else would there be a pillow? 5sq ft of non insulated drywall... so I fixed that then did the rest... It's just a matter of doing one thing at a time as you can.


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