# How to Fix A Hole In Stucco Left By Plumbing Repair?



## RudisFL (Apr 18, 2018)

Had to break through the stucco to repair a leak that was leading into the house.
The void is quite literally the size of the empty space in a cinder block.
What should I pack the hole with? I would prefer not to use spray foam.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 18, 2018)

"Packing something" is not a good Idea because it will affect the repair.

If the stucco wire was cut and removed then you need to obtain some expanded metal lath and some roofing felt or kraft paper. Blend the kraft paper with the existing stucco paper, then add the metal lath and bind it too the stucco netting with tie wire, then apply the stucco patch material and blend to the existing texture.


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## RudisFL (Apr 18, 2018)

Snoonyb said:


> "Packing something" is not a good Idea because it will affect the repair.
> 
> If the stucco wire was cut and removed then you need to obtain some expanded metal lath and some roofing felt or kraft paper. Blend the kraft paper with the existing stucco paper, then add the metal lath and bind it too the stucco netting with tie wire, then apply the stucco patch material and blend to the existing texture.



I'm in Florida, it is a cinder block frame with a stucco exterior.
There is no wire, there is no paper. 

I'll attach wire to the sides of the hole so the cement has a base, but I feel like something should occupy the empty space? I'm considering fun noodle foam.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 18, 2018)

Or you could just place metal lath crumpled, into the cavity.

The photo was not present before my 1st response. So do not fill with crumpled lath.

Anything you use to fill the area be sure to sleeve the pipe. Chip the color coat back slightly so you get a good lap onto the CMU.

Another question; Is this the main water service for the dwelling?


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## Gary (Apr 18, 2018)

Or build an access panel to cover it. You could make the access panel look like stucco or just something complimentary to the stucco wall. That way, should you need to do repairs in the future, you'll have non-destructive access.


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## RudisFL (Apr 19, 2018)

Snoonyb said:


> Or you could just place metal lath crumpled, into the cavity.
> 
> The photo was not present before my 1st response. So do not fill with crumpled lath.
> 
> ...



Yes, main line into the house.

What is an acceptable sleeve? Can I split a large piece of  PVC over it?


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## RudisFL (Apr 19, 2018)

Gary said:


> Or build an access panel to cover it. You could make the access panel look like stucco or just something complimentary to the stucco wall. That way, should you need to do repairs in the future, you'll have non-destructive access.



That's more work than I'm looking to do! 
Truth is I'll most likely never go back to that spot again. A leak will find a new weak spot somewhere else.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 19, 2018)

RudisFL said:


> Yes, main line into the house.



This would be very disconcerting to me, because using the material that was, for the repair, could well have eliminated an electrical ground, your copper piping.

I'll ask you for another photo, or 2, or 3.

Open the weather cover on your electrical service panel and take a photo of  the breakers, and another photo of a hose bib near buy and another of  and heavy metal wrapped connection to a metal rod driven into the ground.



RudisFL said:


> What is an acceptable sleeve? Can I split a large piece of  PVC over it?



Yes, preferably just large enough to encompass the repair fittings.


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## RudisFL (Apr 19, 2018)

Snoonyb said:


> This would be very disconcerting to me, because using the material that was, for the repair, could well have eliminated an electrical ground, your copper piping.
> 
> I'll ask you for another photo, or 2, or 3.
> 
> ...



The electrical ground is on another bib.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 19, 2018)

And connected to the copper piping system which no longer exists because of the material used to effect the repair placed a non-conductive element in the system.

I would have demanded the repair be accomplished with like material.

There is an alternative and that is too drive another ground rod *a min. of 7' away *from the existing ground connection and connect the two ground connections with #6 armored cable.


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## RudisFL (Apr 20, 2018)

Snoonyb said:


> And connected to the copper piping system which no longer exists because of the material used to effect the repair placed a non-conductive element in the system.
> 
> I would have demanded the repair be accomplished with like material.
> 
> There is an alternative and that is too drive another ground rod *a min. of 7' away *from the existing ground connection and connect the two ground connections with #6 armored cable.



Thanks. The house has already has ground rod.


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## Snoonyb (Apr 20, 2018)

Post #10 applies.


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