# Help with parts needed for 2 way shower



## swindmill (Oct 16, 2011)

I am building a custom shower in bathroom that I've recently gutted. I have not put of backer board yet, so I have full access to do whatever I need.  My plan is to run a rain shower head from the ceiling and have a handheld mounted on the wall. I want to use only one at a time; I won't have any reason to run both simultaneously. My issue right now is that I don't completely understand what parts I need to accomplish this.  Can I purchase a shower set and a handheld separately?  Then I also need a 2 way diverter?  I hope my question is clear.


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## Redwood (Oct 16, 2011)

I would say yes and yes...

How are you waterproofing this shower?

Your question has me thinking you don't know very much and waterproofing is very important more so than any valve selection....

You do realize that tile and backerboard is not waterproof....


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## swindmill (Oct 16, 2011)

I wouldn't wing a shower, or anything else for that matter.


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## isola96 (Oct 17, 2011)

swindmill said:
			
		

> I wouldn't wing a shower, or anything else for that matter.



May I ask?.. this is coming out of the ceiling? The rain shower head
You want it to jump off your shower riser right?
Do you have tile on the ceiling now?


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## swindmill (Oct 17, 2011)

It's down to the studs right now. I haven't even laid the first mortar bed yet. The plumbing has been run to where I'll install the valve, so I plan to go to the ceiling from there. I also need to run a line to the handheld.


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## isola96 (Oct 17, 2011)

swindmill said:
			
		

> It's down to the studs right now. I haven't even laid the first mortar bed yet. The plumbing has been run to where I'll install the valve, so I plan to go to the ceiling from there. I also need to run a line to the handheld.



Ok cool can you post picture.


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## swindmill (Oct 18, 2011)

This is in a finished attic space.  I really just need to know the name/specs of the two valves I need in order to rough in the plumbing.  I'm looking at a Price Pfister set, so I suppose I'll need Price Pfister valves, if that's what I'll be using.







These are the two I'm thinking I need (I realize this is a 3 way and not a 2 way, which is fine):


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## nealtw (Oct 18, 2011)

Have you seen the other post about geen drywall, aparently it is not rated for ceilings unless the joists are 12" on center? The internet seems to agree>


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## isola96 (Oct 19, 2011)

nealtw said:
			
		

> Have you seen the other post about geen drywall, aparently it is not rated for ceilings unless the joists are 12" on center? The internet seems to agree>



Yeah,
You can always sister the joists for extra hold. Hardiboard is even heavier.


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## swindmill (Oct 19, 2011)

nealtw said:


> Have you seen the other post about geen drywall, aparently it is not rated for ceilings unless the joists are 12" on center? The internet seems to agree>



Interesting. Is the green board not as strong?  This is a 100 year old house, so the rafters aren't even 16" on center.  There's not much I can do to add extra support between them without pulling out some of the spray foam, which I'd rather not do.  I suppose I may have to in order to hang backer board in the shower area.


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## Redwood (Oct 19, 2011)

Are you planning on using greenboard in the shower?


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## swindmill (Oct 19, 2011)

Redwood said:


> Are you planning on using greenboard in the shower?



I plan on using concrete backer board and Kerdi membrane.


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## isola96 (Oct 19, 2011)

Backer board to tile on correct?...


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## swindmill (Oct 19, 2011)

Yeah. I'm going to tile the entire area; ceiling included(or what ceiling there is).


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## isola96 (Oct 19, 2011)

swindmill said:
			
		

> Yeah. I'm going to tile the entire area; ceiling included(or what ceiling there is).



What size tiles are you using, textured, ceramic?


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## swindmill (Oct 19, 2011)

I haven't decided on tile yet.


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## isola96 (Oct 19, 2011)

swindmill said:
			
		

> I haven't decided on tile yet.



Well if you decide to go any bigger then 6" tile going up that angle ceiling make shore you butter the backs good and use roof nails to hold the tiles until dried serves as spacer and to hold the tile just a FYI.


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## Redwood (Oct 19, 2011)

swindmill said:


> I plan on using concrete backer board and Kerdi membrane.



That's what I was trying to get at when I asked how you were waterproofing the shower...

Excellent choice!


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## swindmill (Oct 19, 2011)

Redwood said:


> That's what I was trying to get at when I asked how you were waterproofing the shower...
> 
> Excellent choice!



I watch Mike Holmes enough to know it's the right way to do it .

I went ahead and got those two Price Pfister valves, only I put an extra few dollars and got the valve with stops.  I plan on using Kenzo line of shower trim.  

I also got the first mortar bed in this afternoon, and I'm thrilled with the outcome, considering I had never even mixed mortar before today.  I followed these instructions in detail, which I found linked on this site some time ago.

Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

I'm thinking I will need to carve out a little spray foam to add in supports for the backer board on the sloped ceiling.  I'm hate to do it, but it makes sense.


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## Redwood (Oct 19, 2011)

Here is another good resource for you...

John Bridge Tile Forum, DIY Tile Advice, Tile How-to Information, Tile Your World

In addition to the main website and his e-book there is also a very good tile forum there.


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## isola96 (Oct 19, 2011)

Cool thanks for posting link


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## swindmill (Oct 25, 2011)

I have the valves, but I haven't yet ordered the trim, and I wasn't planning on getting it until the tile is in.  I also have all of the PEX and shark/gator bite fittings that I'll need.  As you can tell from the picture, I'm dealing with a rather oddly framed wall where the plumbing will be.  It's original (100 yr old) true 2x4 framing with new 2x4 framing laid flat against it (to save space).  I'll have to carve a little bit of foam out of the insulated wall to fit the valves in, and add some cross supports to mount them to.  My concern at this point I'm sure is very basic, but here it is:  How do I ensure that the valves are mounted at the correct depth?  I can't put in cross supports until I know exactly how deep they need to be, and I have to take into account the 1/2" hardie backer and the thickness of the tile.  Any advice is appreciated.


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## isola96 (Oct 25, 2011)

This is your shower body system you re referring too what type is it? Do you have photo of it?

Sent from my iPhone iOS5


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## swindmill (Oct 26, 2011)

Here are the two valves I'll be using:







I have drop ears for the shower head and hand shower.


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## swindmill (Oct 26, 2011)

I've been searching around, and apparently, my problem is not unique.  It looks like some people, using copper pipe, only secure the valve from the front side of the wall.  Others estimate the depth of the backer board and tile and put in a block accordingly.  It looks like I'd be better off getting the trim before putting in a block, so that I can get an accurate depth estimate.  If anyone has any better ideas for me, please chime in.


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## isola96 (Oct 26, 2011)

swindmill said:
			
		

> I've been searching around, and apparently, my problem is not unique.  It looks like some people, using copper pipe, only secure the valve from the front side of the wall.  Others estimate the depth of the backer board and tile and put in a block accordingly.  It looks like I'd be better off getting the trim before putting in a block, so that I can get an accurate depth estimate.  If anyone has any better ideas for me, please chime in.



You want to set up your plumping system before install durock backer board.

Sent from my iPhone iOS5


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## swindmill (Oct 26, 2011)

I'm leaving open the areas that I need access to. I ended up going with hardie board. It was more highly recommended by several sources and also feels more rigid. So, I've got .42" for hardie board, and about .5" for tile and thin set.  The valve is exactly 3.5" deep (to the front edge of the plaster guard), so a support block would need to be recessed about 2.5" inches in order for the plaster guard to sit flush with the finished wall.  

I'm finding a lot less on how to get the depth of the diverter valve set, and it does not have a plaster guard or any sort of guide on how deep to set it.


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