# Whirlpool Dryer not heating



## ccpyue (Nov 3, 2012)

I've a Whirlpool Dryer was working fine in first load of drying today. Second load and it won't heat (Timer and drum work OK). Heating element fine by checking it connectivity. So I also checked its Thermostat. It has 4 different Thermostat, and I checked with my multi-meter with result as below:

1) Fuse Thermal - checked connectivity OK
2) Thermostat High Limit 250 F - connectivity OK
3) Thermal Cut-Off (Hi limit Thermostat illus.) - no connectivity - I tried to short it and turn on the dryer, but still not heating. 
4) Thermostat internal Bias - Two Red thick Wire connectivity OK; 2 Brown thin wire has no connectivity.

Can anyone tell me what is the above result mean? Where went wrong?

Thank you.


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## jeff1 (Nov 3, 2012)

Hi,

Model#?
http://www.applianceaid.com/model-number.php Some model# helps.



> 1) Fuse Thermal - checked connectivity OK



Good.



> 2) Thermostat High Limit 250 F - connectivity OK



Good.



> 3) Thermal Cut-Off (Hi limit Thermostat illus.) - no connectivity -



That will have to be replaced.



> I tried to short it and turn on the dryer, but still not heating.



Then you have two issues/problems.



> 4) Thermostat internal Bias - Two Red thick Wire connectivity OK; 2 Brown thin wire has no connectivity.



Probably fine, you need a really good meter to read the high reisstance of that heater inside the thermostat....wouldn't stop the heat anyways.



> Heating element fine by checking it connectivity



Also make sure it is not grounded.
http://www.applianceaid.com/grounded-elements-on-electric-dryers.php
Also check for proper power to the dryer.

jeff.


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## ccpyue (Nov 4, 2012)

Whirlpool model#:  YLER4634EQ1.
Though the Thermal Cut-Off has no connectivity, but I have tried to by-pass it by connecting the two Red wire without this Thermal Cut-Off, but Heating Element still no heating.


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## jeff1 (Nov 4, 2012)

> YLER4634EQ1



Could that be YLER4634*P*Q1

You should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection.







If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG only!: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working.

jeff.


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## ccpyue (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi Jeff, could you please tell me what is the "Thermal Cut-off (Hi limit thermostat)" use for. That is the one you marked as "1" in you diagram. Thanks.


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## Wuzzat? (Nov 4, 2012)

jeff1 said:


> Then you have two issues/problems.


Agreed.  What could the other issue be?


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## jeff1 (Nov 4, 2012)

ccpyue said:


> Hi Jeff, could you please tell me what is the "Thermal Cut-off (Hi limit thermostat)" use for. That is the one you marked as "1" in you diagram. Thanks.



If the heating element area gets too hot that will open to shut off the heat.

jeff.


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