# Finding and Replacing Weatherstrip on Door



## AYColumbia (Mar 9, 2011)

I'm not very handy so please bear with me.

My back door's weatherstrip has dried up and is falling apart.  I've got a nasty draft and have a rolled up towel at the base of the door for now.  I was at Ace Hardware and there were a myriad of different strips and wasn't sure which one to get.

I used a small mirror to look under the door to see what is installed but it's hard to see honestly.  Seems like a simple thing to do and I feel kind of stupid for even asking for help on this.  I figured I'll have to remove the door to do this once I figure it out.  It's still too cold to have the door off for even 5 or 10 minutes right now.

Would taking pictures of the door and some from a mirror under it be helpful?  Thank you.


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## CharlieO (Mar 9, 2011)

Taking pictures might help. There's all kinds of different weather strips. Some are attached to the door and some are on the threshold when you walk through the door. Not sure what kind you have. if you know the manufacturer of the door, "sometimes on the side of the door with the hinges", that would help also.


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## TheDoorGuy (Mar 9, 2011)

Are you only concerned about under the door or is the problem
also around the perimeter?  As Charlie said, there are different types of
weatherstrip for various situations.  Please post a few pics.

RC/DG


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## AYColumbia (Mar 10, 2011)

Thanks for the response guys.  I didn't even know you can find the MFR on the side of the door, so I'll look.  The door is actually pretty solid on the sides and top.  The bottom is the only place I'm concerend with since it now has nothing keeping the air out.

I"ll post a few pictures tonight.  Thanks again.

[EDIT] Sorry, been a very busy day.  Will get pics tomorrow sometime.


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## AYColumbia (Mar 11, 2011)

Here are the pics.  It looks like the current strip is just stapled to the door so I'll definitely have to remove the door to do this.  Will I be able to replace with something that I don't have to staple?  Some other friendlier way, for a lack of a better term, to mount it?



 

 

 



The door is a really nice heavy duty door and only has this problem.  I just had an energy audit done too and the guy actually said the door has a nice seal.  It'll be nice to get the bottom sealed soon too.


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## TheDoorGuy (Mar 12, 2011)

Hi AY,
In those last three pictures are we looking at a mirror view of the bottom of the
door?  If so, you should be able to find something that will work on one of these
two catalog pages.  The Pemko line is more well known and should be easy to special
order through a quality hardware store or lumber yard.  Colombia is not as well known
but you should still be able to find a place that can order it for you...Just might take
a little more searching.
http://thedoorguy.com/PemkoPage.jpg
http://thedoorguy.com/ColumbiaPage.jpg

Let us know if we are on the right track.
Good luck!
RC/DG


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## AYColumbia (Mar 12, 2011)

Hi,
Yes, the pics are mirror reflections.  Thanks for the info which looks like in the right direction.

The door seems to have two parts: 1) The solid door frame which is 1 7/16" deep and 2) Another layer (the white-painted part facing outside) which is 11/32" deep.  So just a hair over 1 3/4".  The door is 34" wide.

What's the best way to remove those "staples" holding the current strip in place?  I was thinking just a flat-head screwdriver with a long handle which I can lightly tap?  I'm a bit clumsy so I don't want to damage anything. 

@CharlieO,
I looked for any MFR info and found none.  There was a name engraged on the metal hinges.  Could that be the MFR of the door too?


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## TheDoorGuy (Mar 12, 2011)

Looks like a steel clad door on outside....Should net out to 1 3/4" overall
but yes, sometimes they are a little bit over that. The all vinyl parts will not present
a problem for you with regard to thickness.  The aluminum profiles might have to be
bent on the inside and/or the wood surface of the door might have to be sanded.

Your flat blade screwdriver idea should work fine to pull up the staples.  If they don't
pop out evenly, use pliers to finish the job.

That might be the door manufacturer on the hinge or maybe just hinge manufacturer.
Depending on type of lock, the door manufacturer might have put their name on the
piece on edge of door or again, it could be lock makers name.

You will have to take door down to install the vinyl sweep. It would be a good idea
to seal bottom of door with paint or varnish while you are at it.  Probably never
got done before.

RC/DG


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## CharlieO (Mar 16, 2011)

Hi AY,
Sometimes the doors are made by local manufactures and they only have thier name on a sticker that is removed after install, but you really don't need it in this case now that you provided pics.
As rich said it is a steel clad door, basicly 1 3/4" thick, 34" is not a standard size but not uncommon, the new strip will come 36" and easily cut to size.
If the weather is warm enough ( or tack an old blanket over the opening) your best bet is take the door off and take the weather stip off the door and take it with you to the store so they can help you get the closest replacement.
You can screw or nail the new one on, but make sure they are galvanized. If you use screws, use a wide flat head for best results.
Also as Rich said it is best to seal the bottom of the door before reinstall the strip.

Charlie O


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## AYColumbia (Mar 21, 2011)

Thanks CharlieO.  I appreciate the extra information.  We have great weather today but didn't have time to do it today.  Hopefully I'll have time the next time we have good weather.  It's getting mild enough where I can take the door off, remove the strip and put it back on so I can take it with me.


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## CharlieO (Mar 23, 2011)

Your welcome, Good Luck


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