# Securing Hose Bib



## Athena (Dec 2, 2014)

Hello. I just bought an old farm house and have quite a few little projects to take care of. One of which is a loose hose bib. Ive attached a picture but was wondering what you all might suggest I do to secure the bib so that the piping doesnt get damaged. Im guessing screws? But what kind and what kind of drill bit do I need?
Thanks---I appreciate your help getting my house fixed up!


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## havasu (Dec 2, 2014)

Why would attempt to secure that broken spigot? Fix it with a new one, then secure it with two pre-drilled masonry screws.

Have you considered the wiring is for grounding purposes?


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## DFBonnett (Dec 2, 2014)

OP,
That setup is a bit Rube Goldberg but if you're not comfortable replacing the hose bib, go to YouTube and search "Tapcon into brick" for a video on how to secure the existing bib.


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## joecaption (Dec 2, 2014)

By the looks of all that foam around it I'd bet Tap Cons are not going to work, the holes to big.
What I've done is use a piece of 5-1/2" vinyl lumber, cut to 5-1/2" length. 
Use a hole saw to make a hole just big enough to slide in the new freeze proof sill cock and predrill 4 counter sunk holes for the Tap-Cons in the outside corners keeping them at least 1/2" in from the outside edges.
Once the block has been attached add two more screws to attach the sill cock to the block.


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## bud16415 (Dec 2, 2014)

First off what climate do you live in. if it freezes there you will want to replace that whole unit. The upper valve in your photo was one that the valve is back inside the house and the part coming out  will allow it to drain to prevent freezing and breakage. What happened is that valve broke or something like the handle got stripped or it leaked so they added another valve on the end and leave the upper one turned on. if you live where it can&#8217;t freeze you could leave it but I would still change it. The above suggestion sounds good as a way to mount it.


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## frodo (Dec 2, 2014)

Joe Caption has the best idea on strapping it to the wall.

when unscrewing it from the pipe.  BE carefull you do not twist the pipe inside the wall.

this DIY  fix can go form a 10 dollar fix to a 500 dollar fix in  about 3 seconds


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## nealtw (Dec 2, 2014)

The problem here is the other end will be stuck in an interior wall which will have to be opened up. These things don't last forever and parts are hard to come by so once open an access door should be considered for the next time.


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## slownsteady (Dec 2, 2014)

Hi Athena, and welcome. All the above posts are good thoughts about fixing the hose bib. But what do you know about that wire?


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## CallMeVilla (Dec 2, 2014)

You need a new fitting and hose bib.  A Woodford mounting sleeve would do the trick.  It allows you to anchor the hose bib externally.  Of course, a properly plumbed hose bib would have an internal connector and the hole in the brick would be simply packed mortar.

Here is a writeup on a "freeze proof" hose bib assembly:  http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/overview/0,,480863,00.html


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## kok328 (Dec 3, 2014)

I love the ingenuity of fixing the bad valve.
I don't think that is a ground wire as it just loops around the sill cock, it looks like a water meter wire or a phone wire.
Frodo is correct, when it comes to plumbing it's either going to be fast and cheap or long and expensive, you won't know until you get into the job and it goes smoothly or takes a turn for the worst.
Joecaption, has the best idea to cut a small hole in a piece of treated wood board and then attach the board to the wall, from there you can secure the faucet to the board.  There's nothing behind the foam to run a screw into.
If it's not loose then you can just leave it be, it's not going anywhere.


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## slownsteady (Dec 3, 2014)

Athena: Not that you need any more projects, but while you're at it, consider repointing the bricks in that area.


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## frodo (Dec 4, 2014)

if that is a crawl space?   If you can get to the back of it.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Carpenter-Paterson-126CT12-3-4-Copper-Riser-Clamp

OR

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Carpenter-Paterson-126CT08-1-2-Copper-Riser-Clamp


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## nealtw (Dec 4, 2014)

frodo said:


> if that is a crawl space?   If you can get to the back of it.
> 
> http://www.supplyhouse.com/Carpenter-Paterson-126CT12-3-4-Copper-Riser-Clamp
> 
> ...



Why would you have a frost free bib extend into a cold crawlspace?


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## frodo (Dec 4, 2014)

cause  crawl space is buttoned up and not cold.  or should be



the only place where freezing happens is at the hosebibs,  where it meets outside air  



i cant count the hose bibs i have either heated to thaw  or replaced because they split.  100's?


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## KRMWaterPro (Dec 5, 2014)

My suggestion would be to replace the faucet completely and installing a house bibb anchor underneath house on back side of house bibb.  Far more secure than tapcons will ever be especially with the larger hole it seems you have. 

View attachment 1417771170603.jpg


View attachment 1417771227075.jpg


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## frodo (Dec 5, 2014)

KRMWaterPro said:


> My suggestion would be to replace the faucet completely and installing a house bibb anchor underneath house on back side of house bibb.  Far more secure than tapcons will ever be especially with the larger hole it seems you have.




yes ,you can,    i am a cheap sob.

  instead of $13.00 for a hose bib anchor

I pay $2.50 for a riser clamp. add 2 pieces of 3/8 all thread 2 nuts/washers
 save $10.00. 

:2cents: 
 i


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## KRMWaterPro (Dec 5, 2014)

frodo said:


> yes ,you can,    i am a cheap sob.
> 
> instead of $13.00 for a hose bib anchor
> 
> ...



Yeah I can understand that but I'm only paying 5.50 for the ones I'm using.  But you still got me beat and that's a great I idea I'll have to try! Thx! 

Ur 2 cents saves a bunch either way!


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