# Damaged rafter?



## rookie1234 (Apr 7, 2009)

Neighbor was cutting his trees down and one BIG section of his poplar fell on the center of our house.  We have an older home and the rafters are on 24" centers.  The tree fell parallel with the rafters.  The rafter that it hit had two large knots.  The rafters are 2x6 by 16'.  The largest knot was pretty much centered and it broke out leaving a large horizontal centered crack that extends both directions approximately 4 foot each way.  Question is how do we best fix this?  Do we put a scab on both sides the full length and how much past the end of each crack?  Also should we put in upright supports at the end of each scab?  What material should the scab be?


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## GBR (Apr 7, 2009)

1.Does the neighbor's Homeowners Insurance cover this?    

 2. What is the rafter span between bearing points?     

 Be safe, GBR


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## tlcww (Apr 8, 2009)

Perhaps a 2x6x12 would do the trick.
(Maybe even a 2x6x10?)...

Lay it along side the existing rafter and screw it to the existing rafter.
Staggering the screws apx. 12-16 inches apart.
It will be like a 'splice' to re-enforce the cracked 2x6x16 rafter.

Like this below:


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## glennjanie (Apr 8, 2009)

Welcome Rookie:
The safest, surest way to repair the rafter is to sister a new 2 X 6 the full length, or from bearing point to bearing point. Then screw it to the broken or questionable one for full support.
There should'nt be any legs to support it unless they can bear on a wall below.
Glenn


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## tlcww (Apr 8, 2009)

Yes you are correct, it's been years, so I'm a rookie too. 

I was just trying to offer a way that didn't require 
too much effort or intensive labor costs.
I figure a full rafter would involve a lot of extra 
effort to run another 2x6x16 full length, 
down the side of the cracked/split one.
The attic might be a pretty tight fit to get a 16' board up there with out removing the roof.
Not to mention the opening and 
clearance at the attic's access point (hatch?).

Of course the best thing to do I guess, is have the neighbor file a claim 
and get a pro to do it.


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## kok328 (Apr 10, 2009)

I guess it all depends if the roof has to be opened up for sheathing replacement.


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## AU_Prospector (Apr 14, 2009)

I suspect you probably lost some plywood, felt, gutter, and shingles as well.  

Here is how I believe the insurance would work.  Since it is your property, you file a claim with your insurance company.  They will send an adjuster who will note the cause as neighbor at fault.  Same is true if the wind blew a DEAD tree into your house (neighbor at fault hint hint all you neighbors with nuisance dead trees!)  Live wind blown trees are a different story.  Anyway back to your problem.  Your insurance will then go after your neighbor.  Unless you can talk your neighbor into paying your deductible, your on the hook for that.   The insurance company and in turn the mortgage company will frown on a DIY repair job unless you can prove it was done properly as Glenn describes above.  They will likely want the work done by a pro.   If the claim is above about $2000 there will be a industry wide insurance record of claim on your property that lasts I believe indefinetly and transfers with ownership and from insurance company to insurance company.  Its a nationwide database that ins. companies participate in.  Kind of like a carfax report for your home. 

What I am saying is do it right because if insurance is involved a prospective home owner who wants to buy your home will find out when he goes through the process and will want his home inspector to concentrate on that area or give up on your home entirely.  

Can you attach a picture?  There are a couple of home inspectors and other pros on this site who probably tell at a glance if it can be pulled off as a DIY or if you should get a pro.


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## locknut (Apr 15, 2009)

I once repaired a partial break in a 2X10 joist which was about 11".  I placed two heavy pre-drilled steel plates (they happened to be about 1/8" thick, 18" long and 9" wide) across the damage using four 1/2" bolts.  I apllied pressure on the joist with a jack and a block to put it back into linearity before starting the repair.  Seems to have worked just fine over the many years.


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