# Epoxy Garage Floors - Do It Yourself Project?



## 'the epoxy floor guy'

I get asked this question quite often.  The TRUE answer lies within yourself.  In this article I am going to discus the Complete do it yourself Instructions and YOU can decide for YOURSELF.

Most people when they start an epoxy floor project imagine shinny gloss and even flakes like the pictures they see on the internet.  But end up with quite a different story.  

As with any thing PLANNING and preparation are KEY to getting the results YOU desire.

A few things to think about BEFORE you start buying boxes of epoxy.





#1 Why am I doing this? 

   To make the floor easier to clean?
   To hide stained or damaged concrete?
   To keep the floor protected from damage, stains, spills, etc?
   To make the floor look unique and colorful?

#2 Do I have EXISTING conditions that would make MY project more difficult to 'do it myself'?

   Moisture Problems?
   Large Cracks / Damaged areas?
   Someone else's (or my previous) attempt to install an epoxy floor?
   LACK OF PATIENCE!!!!
   Lack of TIME?

#3 Do I have the Skills Required to install the floor myself?

#4 Do I have Access to the Equipment I need to do the job Correctly?

Pre Project Questions

First of all The purpose of the project will determine WHICH product you will need to purchase.  If a simple color is your only goal, DIY products at the big box stores MAY be your answer.  

IF you want Ease of cleaning or chemical resistance, be sure to purchase CLEAR COAT product.  Remember some clear coats will not perform the best with only one coat. TWO may be required.

For the most decorative floors be sure you have enough chips.  DIY packages include only 1-2 lbs of chips for a two car garage for the best look as much as FIFTY pounds may be required, Be sure to purchase enough.

If you have repairs be sure to purchase REPAIR Material.  Read instructions and DRY TIMES.  Sometimes if you plan on coating your garage floor over the weekend, Repairs may need to be completed earlier in the week to allow time to dry.

EXISTING CONDITIONS

Some existing conditions that may put a big CRUNCH on your final product Are:

Moisture Problems.  

These tend to be the 'silent killer'.  DIY products are VERY susceptible to excess moisture 'Pushing' off the coating and causing PREMATURE Failure.  To test for this there is a VERY simple test EVERYONE should do BEFORE starting a project.  Take a kitchen garbage bag or piece of plastic sheeting at least 16" X 16" using duct tape, tape the plastic down on the floor completely sealing all four sides.  After 24 hours lift up the plastic and see if there are visible water droplets on the bottom of the plastic.  IF there are it does not mean you cannot install your floor, but it does with out additional steps or conditions.

If you test in the spring of the year or during a time when the ground is saturated with water, you may be able to wait until later in the year when things dry out.  Retest your floor and if you come up water free You are good to go.

IF you DO have water ALL the time there are epoxies designed to overcome this.  Ask your epoxy supplier for a high moisture formula or contact me for sources.

If you are in doubt I would use the moisture safe product.

Large Cracks or Damaged areas.

These can be repaired using products from the box stores or specialty products purchased elsewhere.  The most important thing about repairs is to be sure your repair product will STICK DOWN and that it is PROPERLY CURED before you coat the floor.  Read product uses and dry times to be certain the product is properly set.

PREVIOUS COATINGS

These are a problem.  Most of the time coating failures are caused by poor preparation or poor planning.  In my opinion there is ONLY ONE solution to this, you MUST remove the failed coating (all of it) before installing an additional coat.

BUT if you want to 'chance' it.  I would DEFINITELY rent a diamond grinder from a rental store.  Grind the areas it has peeled.  AGGRESSIVELY look for areas that show signs of peeling and ALSO grind them.  Grinding will remove the problem spots that were NOT addressed the first time.  Then apply coating as directed on the box.  ** No 'etching' is required IF you grind first **

Two thoughts if you are contemplating this solution: 

#1 the probability the color will match is less than -1%. It is ALL but Impossible for the repair to be 'invisible'.

#2 Chances MORE spots will show up a week after you do this 99%. Go figure!

LACK OF PATIENCE

Quit while your ahead.  Epoxy splattered walls and ? are bound to happen. Proper preparation will take WAY too long.  Just Buy your wife what ever ?shoes or bag? she wants and get her to do this.  Have her read this article and she will probably get better longer lasting results than you could EVER hope for.

LACK OF TIME

Refer to lack of patience.

Do you have the Skills required?

If you question yourself it may be time to call a professional.


Do you have access to the equipment required?

If you do not have access to renting some of the equipment required to properly install the floor, DO YOURSELF a FAVOR and Reevaluate the PURPOSE of this floor.  An inadequate preparation will result in a floor that will LOOK WORSE, be harder to clean and pretty much defeat the entire purpose for installing the floor in the first place.

With me so far. Good.  NOW you have done your pre-planning and you checked out A OK. NOW with the actual STEPS

This is a STEP BY STEP process.

Be sure to wear protective gear according to label instructions of the product you are using. Including but not limited to Rubber boots, Rubber gloves, eye protection, long sleeved shirt and long pants. (too damn many lawyers)

NONE of these steps should be deviated on, NO MATER WHAT THE BOX/DVD says.

THIS WILL WORK FOR ALL BRANDS AND TYPES (SOLVENT OR WATER BASED)

Step ONE. - Determine if the floor has a 'coating' on it.

CRITICAL STEP. FIRST - Take a Small cup of Muratic acid mixed to a ratio of 4 parts water ONE part Acid.


*** SAFETY TIP *** ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER

Drip small amounts of acid solution to various areas of the floor. Especially those areas that appear different, COLOR, TEXTURE, or SHINNYNESS.

The solution should fizz slightly yellow if there is NO coating.

If some small areas DO NOT fizz but most of the other areas do. See Step for Removing coating.

IF COATING EXISTS: Depending on the size of the area:

Small Isolated areas: a surface grinder or aggressive sander with 50 grit or coarser sandpaper may do the trick. REPEAT STEP ONE.

If Most/ALL of the floor will not return a FIZZ I would suggest renting/purchasing a floor grinder to remove that coating. REPEAT STEP ONE.

STEP 2: Any grease spots MUST be spot treated with a degreaser. Use according to label directions.

Test area according to STEP ONE. if no fizz REPEAT degreasing ONE MORE TIME.
If still no fizz, Treat as coated area and sand/grind area until test is successfull.

Step 3: ** IF this is a NEW garage with NO vehicles that have been parked you can SKIP this step ***

THIS IS THE ONE THAT WILL GET YOU IF YOU SKIP IT!

REGARDLESS OF FIZZ TEST, GRIND TIRE "tracks" where vehicles drive on the floor. This is where 98% of FAILURES happen. DO NOT SCRIMP on this step!!

STEP 4: using a garden hose wet the entire floor just enough the floor is moist.

STEP 5: mixing ONE gallon of mixed acid water solution (4 water : 1 acid) evenly pour out the gallon to cover 70-100 sqft, Try working in 'squares' as much as possible. Using a stiff bristled 18-24" shop broom, using a scrubbing motion scrub areas, you should get a 'foamy' white reaction.

Once this area is fully scrubbed, MOVE to the next area and repeat.

STEP 6: Once all areas have been completed using above steps RINSE ENTIRE floor WELL with water Broom out EXCESS water, REPEAT RINSING process a second time, You can Squeegee dry or let air dry.

Allowable Variations: there are a lot of NEW 'safer', 'greener' substitues for Muratic acid prep.

IF you want the VERY BEST method of PREPARING you floor for epoxy. RENT a Diamond Grinder and a Dustfree Vacuum system.

The above is a list of what will Give you the best results possible with an acid etch process. It is 'easy' to do - NOT as easy to do perfect. 

Remember Preperation is 98% of the job.

The rest is install the coatings per the manufacturers instructions.  Observe RECOAT times, Remember, recoating after WAITING TOO LONG can be just as bad as not long enough.  

I would say EVERYONE should install at least ONE clear coat.  It is a SMALL additional price to protect the time and effort you have already invested.

MOST of all, ENJOY your work.

If you have any specific challenges feel free to PM me for more info.


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## Jeff

Wow, seems like a lot, but when you break it down there is actually not that much work involved.  I put down a 20'x20' patio in my backyard, waited several months for it to dry properly then cleaned it with the stuff that came in the kit.  Then cleaned it with just water.  Then put down the paint in the kit plus a couple more gallons.  So far it has lasted several years with no problems in the hot Texas sun and through the rain as well.

My question is, I did not put a clear coat because I was afraid the west Texas sun would yellow it.  I am sure a clear coat would make it look better, but if it fades or yellows at all I don't want it.  Any advice?

Jeff


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## BikerDave

You could use urethane instead of epoxy for a top clear coat.  It's actually better, but more hazardous to work with.  You can see my write-up of my garage and basement, which includes a urethane top coat at goodrum.cx/fall2007projects


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## BRad704

that's a great writeup, and I love that you put the right focus on PREP work!!!

We did our garage floor about 2 months ago, and becasue I "etched" over some old paint down one side of the garage, I now have both epoxy and old paint peeling off...     

We will be grinding all the way to bare concrete later this year and re-doing the entire floor.


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## havasu

Too bad your floor is beginning to peel! Mine is still tight, but often wonder if I should have used muriatic acid instead of that citric acid?


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## BRad704

I used what came with the Behr 2 part epoxy kits, and I dont think it was strong enough.  BUT, I was trying to "etch" over old paint, from spray painting interior doors that were leaned against that wall...  

they sell "Low Odor Muriatic" at any big box home store...


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## Vortexan

Very good advice! Thanks for taking the time to write that.


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## Rubenoid

Thanks for the details prep steps.  Can one avoid all the chemicals for preping if I rent a Diamond Grinder?  " IF you want the VERY BEST method of PREPARING you floor for epoxy. RENT a Diamond Grinder and a Dustfree Vacuum system."  

Also, is there a difference (quality) between Quikrete's or H&C's epoxy?


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## 1977Impala

Done mine 4 years ago, and its the best damn thing I ever did. Used the quickcrete solvent based kit with the solvent clear  on top,  and its been tough as nails. When I did mine they only had the dark grey..If I could do it over I would get the light grey.


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## Rubenoid

Did you use a diamond grinder or did you use chemicals to clean the concrete?


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## 1977Impala

Even though My floor had bad oil stains, I just cleaned it with ZEP orange cleaner, and purple stuff over and over till I got it to where the water didn't bead on the stain anymore, then acid etched the floor, neutralized it after rinsing with Baking soda and then pressure washed it  really good, vacuumed it with the shop vac, Let it dry for a day and then applied the epoxy.


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## chemprof

I poured a slab 2 years ago and am now enclosing it. It has had no coating or oil.  It is a bit rough so I am diamond grinding it.  Do I need to acid etch?  Will be using the Quikrete 2-part water based product.


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## havasu

I believe the kit comes with a package of citric acid etching already, and since you will have to hose down the dust from the grinding already, I would use it, just to be certain the concrete is rough enough to bind to the epoxy. As far as acid etching, unless you don't care about exterior plants when hosing it all down, it wouldn't hurt, but I wouldn't go that far and would be unnecessary IMHO.


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## T2Vette

Newbie here and I used the Quikcrete kit from lowes in my garage and along with the cabinets install, the best thing I ever did.  I was amazed at just how simple it really was.  It took me only one weekend...1 day for prep and drying, 1 to paint.  

Two weeks later my neighbor was so impressed we did his floor!  

T2


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## havasu

^ This is exactly what I did. I was also impressed except my son dragged my Harley lift across the floor recently and it caused a permanent gouge in the epoxy flooring. Oh well.....


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## T2Vette

OUCH::facepalm:  The one thing I wish I had done was kept a small bottle of the paint and hardner in separate containers, so I could do touch ups, just in case I get a small peal spot.  Although thankfully no pealing yet and after three years I am hoping I won't get any.  Has anyone had any pealing start a couple years down the road?

T2


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## havasu

When I used a few lubricants on my roll up door, some fluids leaked down on the floor at the base of the track and the epoxy started to peel in a 1" diameter. I mixed up some clear epoxy and dabbed it on the spots, then covered it with some extra flakes. It hid the peeled areas great!


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## seviansoman

Almost all the advises are pretty good but takes time to implement.


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