# Paint-which brand is best?



## CharlieMac (Oct 9, 2005)

I'm about to paint my living room a chocolate brown color.  the walls are white now.  I really don't want to do a whole lotta coats of paint.  are the more expensive paints really better?   is there really sucha thing as one coat coverage?  what's the best interior latex paint?  and if I want something that can be easily cleaned, what's better?  semi-gloss, eggshell, satin or flat?


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## Paper Hanger (Oct 9, 2005)

Wow,Thats alot of questions. As far as paint brand. Remember the old saying " You get what you pay for". I always prefer name brand paints such as Bejamin Moore, MAB, Sherwin Williams, F&H Ect.  Every brand also has differents grades. Some grades are better than others. I never just put one coat. It doesnt take that long to do a second coat and I feel much better about my Job. I would also go the next step up from Flat. For example "Satin" You dont want anything to shiny on the walls. Eggshell is good also.
John


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## archaicruin (Oct 15, 2005)

I agree - no matter what brand you use, you have to go with two coats to get the look you want - I like Behr and Sherwin Williams -


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## FirTrader (Oct 15, 2005)

Shinier finishes, gloss or semi-gloss, tend to be best durability wise, but show up imperfections quite a bit.. so lower glosses tend to be used.  I agree with the others- brand is not so important as buying good paint within any brand... That is, buy the top end latex, with as much acrylic as possible.  Sometimes tinting some primer with half the amount of tint as the paint gives a nice base = fewer coats.  But as mentioned above, 2 is really necessary no matter what.


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## Canadiver (Nov 11, 2005)

I agree with what everyone is saying, over drywall it is best to stick with eggshell or flat to prevent flashing and imperfections that satin or gloss would show more. Buy the top quaility latex in which ever brand preferrably an acrylic ennamal for durability and washability. When applying make sure to roll top to bottom don't stop part way up the wall. Spread the paint evenly and overlap as you you move along, roll back over the area that you have just painted helps to eliminate roll lines.Keep the floating edge of the roller as the trailing edge also helps (thats the opposite side of where the frame attaches to the roller. Dark color over light color will always take a least 2 coats in my experiences.


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## 2pyrs (Nov 11, 2005)

Sears best flat latex, three dogs, one cat and my sons friends kids. Wipe clean and looks like new.
One coat did ours over a white wall with flat green and white semi-gloss trim. The real trick is to make sure old wall is clean and has no stains  use Kills primer on bad stain areas. Be sure to buy latex trim brush and I like 2 edge brush, roller I like a low mate so it gives a smother finish look to the wall. Fix all holes and cracks prime. Be careful about what type off paint is on your trim, enamel, latex, acrylic they each have there problems. I took a scotch brite pad and fine sand paper over all my wood trim and then damp cloth wipe clean. I buy car painters tape for windows and areas I want no paint to get on its cheaper then the blue stuff they sell and you are ready to go.

                                               Have fun

                                                 2pyrs


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## milehigh_woodcrafter (Apr 5, 2006)

how'd it go? For reference I use semi's in my interiors for ease of cleaning.


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## Ducttapeman (Apr 7, 2006)

sounds like everyone had some good tips.
i believe a grey primer is recommended for darker finish colors,


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## woodworkingmenace (May 1, 2006)

I once read, in a magazine about paints...(since I was painting the outside of my house, for I hoped to be the last time), and it said that the more "additives" you have in a paint, the better it is in quality and performance...(like its going to get up and hot rod down the road, right?)..

Well, I did some searching, from Odd Lots, to Sears, to Sherwin Williams.  All of them had basically the same ingredients!  Sherwin Williams had a few "extra", (now, what that meant, I still dont know, because I am not a chemical expert, but, knew I needed the extras LOL!), so, I bought thiers at 25 bucks a can.

Now, I went the whole nine yards, scraping, and painting first with a primer and then the paint itself.  (Supposed to last 25 years, and me with two pacemakers figured I would be dead by then, and not have to worry about painting again)..

Even painted with two coats and, I am dissapointed.  
It did last a wee bit longer than cheaper brands, but, not the 25 years that they said it would...  So, I shall paint again maybe next year, or the year after...

I guess the moral of the story is that you cant believe everything you read, even from a reputable magazine that you trust...


Just my two cents worth..

Jesse


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## inspectorD (May 1, 2006)

If the paint is peeling off the house it could be from moisture problems and not the paint.
Are the areas that are peeling at any bathroom or areas with no vents in the rooms to remove moisture. I have also seen it where the basement is damp and you have what is called a ballon framed house. This means you can go into the basement and see the studs on the sill plate.(the board sitting on the foundation.)

If this is the case you could paint till the cows come home and it will not stick.
Post me with some answers before you paint .
InspectorD


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## asbestos (May 6, 2006)

Sherwin Williams may be fine paint. But I worked for one of those crappy student painter places when I was in school and I got ripped off. A big selling point of theres was 'we use top of the line sherwin williams' so it has a taint in my eyes. Consumers Report has been testing paints for years now  and when they publish results of multi year studies I am always surprised. one companies kitchen and bath paint may kick ***, but their exterior may be so-so. and some $20 paint may be highly rated over someone's $35 paint


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