# Need to make sure a new fridge fits into space



## ilyaz (Oct 5, 2017)

We finally decided to replace our 14 yar old fridge with a new one. Since we have a small kitchen, we'll probably for a French door model. Of course, we want to get the largest unit we can fit into the space. But we have one problem: the side kitchen wall on the left side of the fridge and, as a consequence, the wooden board that separates the fridge from the dishwasher on the other side are not vertical. So our current fridge is pressing against the board at the top (see photos). Is there any way (not including redoing the  whole kitchen ) to fix/adjust this to ensure that the new fridge actually fits into the opening? 

Thank you!


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## nealtw (Oct 5, 2017)

I would have raised the one side of the fridge.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 5, 2017)

In the instructions for the new appliance will be a para. or 2 on adjusting the leveling legs. Some have adjustments for the rear rollers, accessible from the front, while some have a series of holes in the wheel bracket which require removing and replacing a pin.


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## JoeD (Oct 5, 2017)

I would say you have the largest fridge that will fit. I agree about the feet.
Is the fridge level?
Lower the feet on the left side of the fridge. The top gap on the left will close. The gap and the right will open.


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## ilyaz (Oct 5, 2017)

The fridge is level. I thought you don't want a fridge to be not level under any circumstances. Wouldn't the door get our of whack?


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## nealtw (Oct 5, 2017)

ilyaz said:


> The fridge is level. I thought you don't want a fridge to be not level under any circumstances. Wouldn't the door get our of whack?



The cupboard should have been put in plumb. I think I would put up with a fridge door that wanted to swing open or closed. Not sure how that would effect the fridge.


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## JoeD (Oct 5, 2017)

Buy a fridge the same size. It will fit the same as the one that is there.

If you want the gap fixed then the cabinet will have come off the wall and moved sideways to make the side panel level and the left filler strip adjusted to fill the gap. The left filler should have been tapered to make match the wall and also be level.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 5, 2017)

ilyaz said:


> The fridge is level. I thought you don't want a fridge to be not level under any circumstances. Wouldn't the door get our of whack?



You want the appliance to fit into the opening. You adjust the leveling legs to fit your aesthetic interests and the doors to gently close, you can also adjust the doors to fit.

If the cabinets are not plumb and level, and the floor is not level, fitting the appliance is what you have elected to accomplish.

The aesthetics of which are your decisions.


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## nealtw (Oct 6, 2017)

Put as level against the side of the fridge and take picture. Sorry, I am just a non believer.


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## elbo (Oct 6, 2017)

measure the smallest dimension and buy a fridg that will fit in it. The fridge is designed to be level, so any change from that could be a mistake. 
If the cabinet is affixed to the back wall , I dont know why the board separating the washer and fridge is needed. I would remove it and make a filler strip from that to hide what gap is left


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## Steve123 (Oct 6, 2017)

JoeD said:


> Buy a fridge the same size. It will fit the same as the one that is there.


 

Before you put down your credit card for the new fridge, go to the manufacturer's web site and pull up the owner's manual.  You might not have the required clearance (at top) for proper air flow.


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## ilyaz (Oct 8, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Put as level against the side of the fridge and take picture. Sorry, I am just a non believer.



I did check with a level. Put it on top not to the side, it shouldn't matter, right?


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## ilyaz (Oct 8, 2017)

elbo said:


> measure the smallest dimension and buy a fridg that will fit in it. The fridge is designed to be level, so any change from that could be a mistake.
> If the cabinet is affixed to the back wall , I dont know why the board separating the washer and fridge is needed. I would remove it and make a filler strip from that to hide what gap is left



What would be easier to do: the cut on the right or on the left? Would I have to remove the panels to cut them and then nail back the top parts? Or can I do it in-place?


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## Snoonyb (Oct 8, 2017)

ilyaz said:


> I did check with a level. Put it on top not to the side, it shouldn't matter, right?



The appliance can rack, that is why there are adjustment instructions for, both, the leveling and doors.


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## Snoonyb (Oct 8, 2017)

ilyaz said:


> What would be easier to do: the cut on the right or on the left? Would I have to remove the panels to cut them and then nail back the top parts? Or can I do it in-place?



Scribe and cut the filler on the left, in place.

The FEP, (finished end panel), on the right may affect the manner in which your upper cabinet is supported.

If the intent is to cut and remove the FEP below the cut line, as has been suggested, you will also that it is the finished end for the DW and that there is a cleat which supports the end of your counter.


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## nealtw (Oct 10, 2017)

ilyaz said:


> I did check with a level. Put it on top not to the side, it shouldn't matter, right?



Put the level on the side of the fridge and the side of the cupboard.

With one end toughing pull the other end out so  you can see how far one of them is out.  So if you have a 2ft level and you hold it level and it out 1/4"

Then you would say it is out 1/4" in two feet. 
If the cupboard is out that far, it is fixable.


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