# contractor just installed dishwasher, water doesn't drain



## merk (Jan 5, 2016)

Hi all,

I just had a new fisher paykel dishdrawer washer installed (model DD24DCTX7).

Yesterday after they left i tested it and water came gushing out of the air gap/vent they installed in the top of the counter. Today they said they fixed it. I tested it and on the bright side, no water gushed out of the vent. The down side is no water seems to have left the dishwasher at all. I just ran it through a rinse cycle and there's a good pool of water in both drawers.

When i looked under the sink, i found they had completely unhooked everything from the vent - it's now just a countertop ornament. Instead there is a light grey hose and a black hose connected together with a Y shaped 'joiner'? that's connected to my garbage disposal. (see attached photo please)

So i have two questions:

1. What's the proper way this should be hooked up? Do i need that vent on the counter?

2. does anyone know if there's a way to get the washer to just drain the water without having to do another rinse cycle? aside from wasting water it's also annoying having to wait 10 minutes to test it.

Thanks


----------



## oldognewtrick (Jan 5, 2016)

Who did the install? Did you pay them before you checked to see if it works correctly?


----------



## nealtw (Jan 5, 2016)

Is this a bosch dishwasher?  Is this a replacement dishwasher or new, like you didn't have one before?


----------



## oldognewtrick (Jan 5, 2016)

Yep, I think it was Botched....


----------



## nealtw (Jan 5, 2016)

Last one I installed, someone forgot that the garberator was new and the plug was still in.


----------



## slownsteady (Jan 6, 2016)

Can we assume that the DW is immediately to the left in the pix above? I think you have the double whammy of the hoses being too long and gravity working against them. It's been a long time since I installed my dishwasher, but I think the instructions said to run the hose just below the countertop and _down_ to the drain. I wouldn't want to lose that storage space to a couple of poorly installed hoses anyway.
And if those guys come back to install it again, tell them I said they're idiots.


----------



## havasu (Jan 6, 2016)

Yep, loop the discharge hose (secure to bottom of the sink or countertop), and eliminate the air gap completely. Or do what I did, install a soap dispenser in place of the air gap.


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 6, 2016)

merk said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just had a new fisher paykel dishdrawer washer installed (model DD24DCTX7).
> 
> ...


----------



## merk (Jan 6, 2016)

To answer some of the questions:

Yes, the DW is to the left of the photo - sorry i didn't make that clearer.
It's a fisher-paykel - i think i mentioned that in the original post along with the model # (DD24DCTX7).

This is a new DW - new kitchen actually. I think they actually re-used the garb disp i had previously, which is fine since it was only a few months old anyhow. It was not previously connected to a dishwasher. 

So then if the 'wart' is required by code, then I basically need another hose then - the two existing hoses (the gray and black hoses connected to the garb disp in the photo) would get connected to the air gap and then the other hose would go from the airgap to the garb disp?

And please, don't get me started on this contractor. They are scam artists - at least the work is getting done so they aren't 100% scam artists, only about 80% scam artist.

If they don't have it fixed by tomorrow I'm just going to contact a local fisher-paykel dealer and see if they'll come out and do it and deduct that from what's still owed to the contractor.

Oh and i can't find any sort of cancel/drain function. The front of the unit has 3 buttons - on/off, pause/start and a lock button.

edit: they didnt remove the plug in the garbage disposal where the DW hooks up to it. Which would explain (i assume) why water gushed out of the air gap the first time. running the DW now to see if it drains. I'll have to get them to hook the drain lines up properly tomorrow - and to trim them shorter.


----------



## KULTULZ (Jan 6, 2016)

This install is completely against code (and common sense). 

The DW drain(s) must be routed through either an air gap or hi-loop or it (dirty wash water) will not drain properly or even worse backflow into the DW. Having the discharge hoses just lying on the sink cabinet base will lead to having them filth and bacteria filled.

Read the instruction/install manual. If someone plumbed my DW in such a fashion, they would be asked to leave.


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 6, 2016)

merk said:


> To answer some of the questions:
> 
> Yes, the DW is to the left of the photo - sorry i didn't make that clearer.
> It's a fisher-paykel - i think i mentioned that in the original post along with the model # (DD24DCTX7).
> ...



Thanks for the clarification, and your assumption is correct. 



merk said:


> So then if the 'wart' is required by code, then I basically need another hose then - the two existing hoses (the gray and black hoses connected to the garb disp in the photo) would get connected to the air gap and then the other hose would go from the airgap to the garb disp?



Correct. The "Y" adapter comes from FP with a series of reductions which are trimmed to allow it to fit the smaller airgap tube.

The other approved method of connecting the DW, which has been described by 3 others, is called the high-loop, and the approval is conditional, as well as jurisdictional.

The installation manuel may or may not describe both of these methods, you should also have it in your hand.



merk said:


> If they don't have it fixed by tomorrow I'm just going to contact a local fisher-paykel dealer and see if they'll come out and do it and deduct that from what's still owed to the contractor.



Be very careful here, and while I understand your frustration, do not do anything that can be construed as in violation of your construction agreement.

There is a saying in legal dealings; " say it forget it", "write it regret it."

Start putting your communication with these people in writing.



merk said:


> Oh and i can't find any sort of cancel/drain function. The front of the unit has 3 buttons - on/off, pause/start and a lock button.



Some DW have this as a choice and usually starting a wash or rinse cycle and then selecting off will initiated the evacuation of the water in 1 or both drawers.



merk said:


> edit: they didnt remove the plug in the garbage disposal where the DW hooks up to it. Which would explain (i assume) why water gushed out of the air gap the first time. running the DW now to see if it drains. I'll have to get them to hook the drain lines up properly tomorrow - and to trim them shorter.



This is rookie stuff.

Were I you and they were unable to correct the installation, I'd call a local repair plumber and make sure the contractor wasn't on the site at the same time.


----------



## merk (Jan 6, 2016)

I'm past the point of worrying about what's written in the contract since the contractor themselves have already violated the terms of the contract multiple times. I've already spoken with a lawyer and were I to sue them I would almost certainly win, it's just a question of how much and how difficult it would be to get any money back from them. But I'm getting off topic now.

At this point since the washer is working, I'm just going to have them leave it alone and I'll hook up the hoses correctly myself once they are done in the kitchen. I think that'll lead to less hassle and at least that way I can be reasonably sure it's done correctly.


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 6, 2016)

merk said:


> I'm past the point of worrying about what's written in the contract since the contractor themselves have already violated the terms of the contract multiple times. I've already spoken with a lawyer and were I to sue them I would almost certainly win, it's just a question of how much and how difficult it would be to get any money back from them. But I'm getting off topic now.



Yes I know, I just don't like to see someones soap-box washed out from underneath them.



merk said:


> At this point since the washer is working, I'm just going to have them leave it alone and I'll hook up the hoses correctly myself once they are done in the kitchen. I think that'll lead to less hassle and at least that way I can be reasonably sure it's done correctly.



Well that's good that there has been some level resolution. Many posters have little mechanical ability.

No matter which method you select as the final installation, the length and the degree of the bends in the discharge hoses will effect the performance.


----------



## merk (Jan 6, 2016)

Snoonyb said:


> No matter which method you select as the final installation, the length and the degree of the bends in the discharge hoses will effect the performance.



So basically i just need to make sure the loop (if we dont use the airgap) is higher than the drain, and keep the hoses as short as they can be while still reaching everything.


----------



## nealtw (Jan 6, 2016)

https://www.manualowl.com/m/Fisher and Paykel/DD24DCTX7/Manual/318004?page=20
Page 20 shows three options. You should have a hose support that came with it attach that high under the cupboard, hang the hoses and shorten them to fit. As seen in option three.


----------



## Snoonyb (Jan 6, 2016)

merk said:


> So basically i just need to make sure the loop (if we dont use the airgap) is higher than the drain, and keep the hoses as short as they can be while still reaching everything.



Correct and KULTULZ offered good examples of both processes.

From the options available to you, the high-loop is the lesser of 2 evils, but keep in mind that if this project is permitted, you still need the final. So, think this through, before you remove the airgap, or change it to some other appliance.

However given that the discharge for the disposal is opposite the FP I would make the first rough top attachment point just to the left of the faucet, continue behind the faucet piping and attach them there, and then do a wide sweep to the disposal.

Since they have already added the section of hose adapting the FP "Y" to the disposal, you should be able to keep the parts to a min.


----------



## elbo (Jan 13, 2016)

I may be missing something here, but, you said they used the old disposer for the drain , given that, you should check that the plug is removed from the old disposer,( you said that it wasn't hooked to the disposer, so more than likely, the plug is still installed and did prevent the DW from draining ) then you can hook up the d.w. drain directly to the disposer , keeping in mind the air gap,or the  loop in the drain line so that it doesn't siphon backwards. It's really a simple installation, so long as you remove the plug. If it's still in there, stick a screwdrive in the hole and bust out the plug. Don't worry about getting out the pieces as the plug is made of plastic and the disposer will grind it up


----------



## merk (Jan 13, 2016)

Yeah that's exactly what the issue was.  I think I posted a few days ago mentioning it's working now and I just had to pop the plug out


----------

