# Newly installed bay window leaks



## guyod (Mar 20, 2008)

Hello ,

I partially installed a bay window last week. Its screwed in the wall and thats about it. (and plastic over the broken front window.. oops... they're heavy.) well after i installed i noticed my roof over hang does not cover the window. something that never crossed my mind when figuring the overhand or ordering the roof.  Im learning on the way.  So now i need to seal the window with something just dont know what. chaulk just doesnt seem like it would be enough. i seen this 4 inch wide metallic tape that is suppose to go along the nailing edge of new construction windows its suppose to be hurricane proof. Do you think that folded in half will work? Is there anything that need to be done to the top of the window? Its 1'' plywood. I guess a big piece of flashing might work but it would need a seem or it would not cover the whole top.  
Any suggestions would be great..


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## Square Eye (Mar 20, 2008)

The tape is designed to be used behind a weather-tight protective covering. It's true purpose is to stop airflow and the occasional moisture penetration. My suspicion is that it's broad use and availability were brought on by the mold scare. Anyway, The issue you have would probably best be solved by custom bending a flashing to cover the top of the window. Many lumber companies in my area will rent or allow time on a metal bending break. Careful measurement and planning will usually result in a nice looking piece of metal flashing. The metal (usually aluminum) comes in coils and some lumber companies will sell you a piece cut to whatever lengths you want. It comes in colors to match most current, and some older, standard siding colors.
If you MUST put a seam in, Overlap the bottom piece with the top piece. Do the sides first, wrapping around to the front and overlap the corners of the bay so that the front or center pieces can be cut on the ends to give you a clean mitered look.


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## inspectorD (Mar 20, 2008)

You could order a roof assembly for the bay window, some manufacturers have them pre-made in metal or composits. Call them to find out if you have enough room.
The flashing route is ok, they tend to leak if not done precisely. 
The last option is a piece of rubber membrane roof, they come in colors, and white or black.
A picture would help.


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## OtbHunter (Mar 21, 2008)

Another caution is also in order... Be extra attentive when insulating around the bay window. This type of window is prone to moisture (condensation) if not properly and completely insulated. Now is the time to add as much insulation as possible... really a hassle if moisture becomes an issue after installation!
Let us know how it turns out.


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## guyod (Mar 21, 2008)

Thanks for the replies. a premade roof would be  nice and with 9' walls so i should have the room. But the window is not a standard size. I ordered it from lowes and asked for a standard size and they said there was no such thing and they where all custom made. So it would be a custom roof and i dont the money for anything custom made anymore. What would be the easiest way to add a slope to a flashing covering.  The only way i can think of would be plywood and that would involve alot. . I should stop being so lazy but i just want to get this house done....

I should of put the foam  around the window frame before putting the window in but it was a tight fit and didnt want the window to get caught up on it. what else can i do now for insulation other that chaulking and flashing . i only have about a 1/4 inch gap on the one side.


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## guyod (Mar 21, 2008)

Here is some pics there not great just done with the phone. 

I through in a before pic makes the new house look better.


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## inspectorD (Mar 21, 2008)

OK, so how good are you at framing? You could do a couple of things. The easiest is a regular small , little, tiny, gable ended shed porch type roof.  This you will need to build up on the top at least 3 inches of the window top. You have the room and there will be more room for some insulation, and clearance on the windows to open .Then you build some rafter trusses with 2x4 and plywood. Basically you are making some triangles to screw the back end to the wall, and project over the window. This way the rafters are  supporting themselves without a beam. You can go 2 feet on center spacing with some 3/4 inch ply for the roof decking.
I would try to match the existing roof pitch(angle) so it is more in style with the house. This style will leave you with some soffit angles at the window. It will look OK, and leaves you with a bit of roof over the side windows so you can leave them open if it is raining.
Then trim it up, there is really limited weight on this roof so it will work.
The other option is to frame the roof with the hips to match the window angles. This gets more involved but is the same methods. 
Good luck, and ask as you go.


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## Square Eye (Mar 21, 2008)

Mercy, The pics tell the tale!
I had an entirely different idea of what you were doing!

InspectorD is correct though, the only way to cover a bay properly is to build a roof to fit. You have plenty of room over the window to get a good pitch.

Time to get a good saw, some careful measurements and start scratching the head 

Studs, plywood, roofing, felt paper, drip edge, 4 kinds of nails and some staples, fascia, flashing...... I rebuilt a roof like that last summer. It only took me a day and a half to tear off the old mess and rebuild it.


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## guyod (Mar 21, 2008)

I would like to use a steel roof. i think it might be a little easier and look nicer. 


I would only leave a 2 inch overhang. How do you cap a steel ridge? I shouldnt need plywood, drip edge, soffit, casement right? Just go over what im showing in the picture


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## Square Eye (Mar 21, 2008)

You will need something between the steel and the top of the window. (Which is what I previously thought you were doing)
But steel is a decent choice for this application. Once you get the nailers against the house, The rest will start to fall into place. The manufacturer of the steel roofing also makes ridge caps and many other trim pieces that you may need before you're done. After you get framed in, then you will see more clearly what you need from them. A watertight flashing from a wall to a steel roof can be tricky. Take your time and use the gaskets available from your supplier.


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## OtbHunter (Mar 22, 2008)

Yes, you should be able to add the roof as pictured above. It will just take a little head scratching to put together. I was thinking just like Square Eye... that you didn't have so much room, but after seeing the pictures, you have plenty of room... just need to get started and it will come together.
Be sure to post a pic of the final results.


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## John7447 (Mar 23, 2008)

Sounds like you went passed the soffit,you need 10" to build a roof,I dont 
think you can ever make it water tight.


                                 Good Luck


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## Square Eye (Mar 24, 2008)

John, He has 9' ceilings in his house. He has around 18" above the window.

Do it right, it won't leak


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## guyod (Mar 25, 2008)

So i still need a piece of flashing on top of the window? what is the purpose of that?
I started looking for bay windows while driving i never took notice how complicated they could get. especially with 8' ceiling. but with 2 story or high ceilings it looks pretty straight forward. i am happy i went with the 9' ceilings now


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## Square Eye (Mar 25, 2008)

Build it. 

You'll see what you need as you go. I have no idea what you have in mind but you may be able to buy a drip edge (roof starter) and metal fascia instead of a custom flashing.


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