# Home repairs - cost?



## adamdell (Mar 6, 2008)

Hi guys,

I have recently recieved a survey back on a house i've made an offer on and there are 3 main issues that need to be assessed as urgent repairs. I would like to know from you guys what the average cost is for these repairs if I was to have them carried out by a professional. It is a 2 bed, 2 storey 1900 built mid terreced property.

1 - Sub-floor timber wall-plate rotten - this needs replacing and I think is accessable via the cellar

2 - Kitchen floor needs relaying and damp proofing - kitchen was extended into an existing out house and the existing floor is uneven and damp so will need digging up a relaying, it is a concrete floor.

3 - Chimeny stack/breast romaval - above the kitchen the 3rd bedroom has been converted into a bathroom. The lower part of the chimney in the kitchen has already been removed, leaving the first floor section and the loft section. High damp reading were taken from the wall of the chimney stack and we have been advised to have it removed and have the roof patched where the stack is.

other issues were noted such as poor ventallation in the loft and floors etc, and damp proofing the entire house was also advised.

I'm going back to the property tonight to have a look at the problems for myself, then it will be organising quotes etc, but if I could get an idea from here first that would be of great help, thanks!


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## glennjanie (Mar 6, 2008)

Welcome Adamdell:
Costs vary by location and country. I estimate yours in U S dollars to be $6,500 to 8,000. This is just a quick estimate using the SWAG formula and is to be used as a guideline only. It may be enough expense to block the sale of the house, unless the present owners want to do it themselves.
Glenn


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## handyguys (Mar 6, 2008)

No one can give an accurate estimate of costs with just the info provided. get three quotes locally and compare. Make sure they are apples to apples.



adamdell said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have recently recieved a survey back on a house i've made an offer on and there are 3 main issues that need to be assessed as urgent repairs. I would like to know from you guys what the average cost is for these repairs if I was to have them carried out by a professional. It is a 2 bed, 2 storey 1900 built mid terreced property.
> 
> 1 - Sub-floor timber wall-plate rotten - this needs replacing and I think is accessable via the cellar



That doesn't even make sense. The subfloor is rotten. The bottom wall plate is rotten. - That makes sense. A subfloor would NOT be able to be replace from below nor would a bottom wall plate. 



adamdell said:


> 2 - Kitchen floor needs relaying and damp proofing - kitchen was extended into an existing out house and the existing floor is uneven and damp so will need digging up a relaying, it is a concrete floor.



This doesn't make sense either. Floors cannot, 99% of the time, be removed reinstalled. If the floor is concrete and damp then you have issues that need to be addressed outside, around the perimeter. Fix that and then install a new floor if current one is water damaged. If the concrete is uneven that is aesthetic and not "urgent" but can be done.



adamdell said:


> 3 - Chimeny stack/breast romaval - above the kitchen the 3rd bedroom has been converted into a bathroom. The lower part of the chimney in the kitchen has already been removed, leaving the first floor section and the loft section. High damp reading were taken from the wall of the chimney stack and we have been advised to have it removed and have the roof patched where the stack is.



I would agree that if a lower section of a chimney has been removed and nothing is supporting an upper section (Is that what you are saying?) YES, this is urgent. If its just a chimney stack with moisture it does NOT need to be removed. It may just need a cap and flashing repair and is not urgent. 



adamdell said:


> other issues were noted such as poor ventallation in the loft and floors etc, and damp proofing the entire house was also advised.



If you described the issues exactly as your inspector described them I would put a stop payment on his check and get another inspection. 



adamdell said:


> I'm going back to the property tonight to have a look at the problems for myself, then it will be organising quotes etc, but if I could get an idea from here first that would be of great help, thanks!



Good luck


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## glennjanie (Mar 6, 2008)

Hey Handyguys:
Let's remember, we are not here to *boss* the jobs posted by others or to make anyone feel diminished by our comments. You and I may have a totally different conversation face to face but, on here, everyone is watching and hutrful statements may discourage another from asking a question.
My answer to Adam Dell was to point out there is considerable cost to the repairs he mentioned (BTW inspectors are tested and licensed and should not be challenged) and he may want to stop the deal or ask the seller it they would be willing to fix the problems.
You may have noticed my estimate was arrived at by the SWAG formula, which means Scientific Wild A** Guess and was not intended in any way to be the official bid on the job. So, ease up a little O K? Its not all life or death and no one is going to shoot you down on an answer either. We are here to help.
Glenn


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## adamdell (Mar 7, 2008)

Right, I went back to the house last night and had a look at the problems pointed out in the survey.

1 - Timber Wall-Plate - this is located below the dining room floor at the back of the house, before you go into the kitchen. It is visible in the cellar, at the rear wall, and is damp and starting to rot, the cellar as a whole is very damp and probably the cause of the rotting. Chances are that to replace it they will access it from the dining room floor, removing the floor boards, and probably removing the cellar ceiling.

2 -Kitchen Floor - Originally there would have been the kitchen, then an outhouse at the back of the house. The kitchen has been extended into the outhouse and the original concrete floor has not been changed. Chances are that the outhouse floor had no water-proof membrane to stop damp coming up from the ground below, adding to this the cheap lino laid on top, has caused serious damp it the end of the kitchen. The advice was to remove the lino and see if it dries up. If not to relay the concrete floor, damp-proof it and then tile on top of that.

3 - The chimney stack - What has been left is located above the kitchen at the rear corner of the bathroom. High damp reading were taken from the wall of the chimney breast. In front of the breast they have located the hot water tank within a built in cupboard. There is a vent put in the help with ventilation in the sealed chimney breast. No visible signs of damp are present though. I believe chances are that rain water is running down the chimney with no where to go but through the brick work. Maybe removing the whole stack is unnecessary and maybe capping the chimney will solve the problem? Also the bathroom, which used to be a bedroom, also has 3 exterior walls, the chimney is not against a neighbouring wall. Hopefully when the lower part of the chimney was removed, adequte support was put in place, we will only find this out when the solicitors make their enquiries into the matter.

To add to this it is apparent the house has been empty for a few months, with no heating on during this time. The house as a whole is very cold because of this. May this have contributed the the high damp readings taken? No heating = no drying out of normal dampness that would come through exterior walls?

your replies are greatly appreciated.


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## handyguys (Mar 7, 2008)

glennjanie said:


> Hey Handyguys:
> Let's remember, we are not here to *boss* the jobs posted by others or to make anyone feel diminished by our comments. You and I may have a totally different conversation face to face but, on here, everyone is watching and hutrful statements may discourage another from asking a question.
> My answer to Adam Dell was to point out there is considerable cost to the repairs he mentioned (BTW inspectors are tested and licensed and should not be challenged) and he may want to stop the deal or ask the seller it they would be willing to fix the problems.
> You may have noticed my estimate was arrived at by the SWAG formula, which means Scientific Wild A** Guess and was not intended in any way to be the official bid on the job. So, ease up a little O K? Its not all life or death and no one is going to shoot you down on an answer either. We are here to help.
> Glenn



Sorry - I didn't intend to offend or make hurtful statements. We all know that there are bum inspectors out there. I stand by my statement that IF (big if) the report was written as adam posted that it is not sufficient and does not describe the issue.

I have seen too many people worry about little things that are no big deal, seen people approach house issues incorrectly, etc.

I spoke to a home inspector once about an inspection he did for someone (who was an acquaintance of mine and of the home owners). I was present for a second inspection a year after the purchase (no concessions, they wanted the house). Anyway, the first inspectors reaction was "They bought that house?!?!?!). The second inspectors job was to help them prioritize the myriad of repairs. 

Not sure what my point is - In that story the home owners had major foundations and water issues (urgent) and they also has a scummy tub (aesthetic) a roof leak (urgent), wall patching (aesthetic), and many other non urgent things. This acquaintance wanted me to help them DIY a re-do of the bathroom because it was so disgusting. I refused. Just a few minutes in their house I knew there were other, more urgent, issues. I arranged for an inspection for them (paid for, they had little money) to get an outside opinion of what they should address first. Of course it validated what I told them. 

OK - I re-read my post - Did I really say something hurtful?


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## glennjanie (Mar 7, 2008)

O K we're cool now.
Glenn


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