# 220v 6.5 air compressor wiring question



## kenny6486 (Mar 13, 2017)

Manufacturer recommends 60 amp circuit breaker. This is going to be a dedicated line and the compressor will sit 25 feet away from panel. I was planning on using 8 awg wire.  Is this size wire necessary or can I go down to a number 10? The big box stores sell plugs for 50 A not 60 what would happen if I used a 50 amp plug if the compressor peaked above 50amps.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 13, 2017)

Here is an ampasity chart; http://www.usawire-cable.com/pdfs/nec ampacities.pdf

Somewhere in the manual you will find the operating amperage of this appliance and you'll need to cable and disconnect as prescribed, as well as in compliance with local codes.

Seldom, if ever, are these appliances other than direct connected.


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## bud16415 (Mar 14, 2017)

I would go with number 6 wire. I would also look for a plug and outlet rated for what the breaker size is or hard wire it in. 

I ran number 6 to my hot tub sub-panel and it was a little farther but off a 50a breaker. #6 wasn&#8217;t to hard to work with.


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## afjes_2016 (Mar 14, 2017)

I would highly suggest that you post the make and model number of the compressor for us to see.

Yes, many air compressors do require direct connect but some also require a "pressure switch" to be inline between the source power and the compressor. The pressure switch will cut the power to the air compressor when the pressure reaches a preset limit. If the air compressor is not wired correctly or you by pass the pressure switch the compressor will run and run and run and never shut off.

So before you go wiring anything first you need to know the "name plate" ratings of this air compressor. There should be a metal plate on the air compressor somewhere indicating amps, volts etc. If you can take a pic of the name plate that may help too. Also, getting the wiring diagram for this compressor will help us guide you better.

Also is this a new air compressor or did you buy it second hand?

We can't do guessing work here.


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

New compressor by Puma


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

kenny6486 said:


> New compressor by Puma


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

New compressor by Puma


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## afjes_2016 (Mar 14, 2017)

I have not been able to find the wiring diagram online for this model compressor (found one manual but does not specify for this model). I sent an email to PUMA requesting a link to it and the owners manual. But it does have a pressure switch as you can see.

You say it will be 25 feet from the panel but can you see the panel clearly (unobstructed) from where the compressor will sit. If not it is best to put in a disconnect between the panel and the pressure switch right where the compressor is for safety and by code if you can't see the panel clearly from the compressor. This is to ensure no one will turn the breaker on if you are working on it at the time. The disconnect can be a non-fused (but lets see what the manual may say).


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

The breaker is within view and compressor has on /off  on the pressure switch.  Just wanted to know what would happen if compressor peak exceeded the 50 amp outlet? ( breaker would be 60a as per recommendation) 60amp outlets are a lot more money and seem unnecessary considering 50 amp outlet rating probably wouldn't melt at say 60 amp spike. Not sure if this thinking is correct


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## afjes_2016 (Mar 14, 2017)

kenny6486 said:


> The breaker is within view and compressor has on /off  on the pressure switch.  Just wanted to know what would happen if compressor peak exceeded the 50 amp outlet? ( breaker would be 60a as per recommendation) 60amp outlets are a lot more money and seem unnecessary considering 50 amp outlet rating probably wouldn't melt at say 60 amp spike. Not sure if this thinking is correct



Why are you using plug/receptacle for this compressor. Probably would be best off direct wire from panel to disconnect (next to compressor) and then to pressure switch. If you do end up using a plug/receptacle you would probably be best off with "twist" instead of "straight blade" this way the plug won't slip out of the receptacle as the plugs and cord are quite heavy.


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## bud16415 (Mar 14, 2017)

I&#8217;m not positive if it is now code or not but we have to use a combination disconnect plug & outlet here now. The plug can not be removed unless the disconnect is in the off position. If the breaker is in eye shot I would just hardwire it for home use, unless you need to move the compressor around and plug it in different places. Just treat it like it is a fixed location. A disconnect on the wall close by would be best if you plan on turning off the power when you are not using it.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 14, 2017)

Here are the two manuals for your comp.; https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumabeltdrivemanual2014_2.pdf

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumapk6560vcatalogpage_oct2014.pdf

In reading through the 1st you'll find that the pressure switch is integral to the comp., and that the 230V plug is not supplied but must be purchased from another retailer.

You can, as your option, hardwire the comp.


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

Thank you snoonyb for going the extra mile


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## nealtw (Mar 14, 2017)

It says 28 amps?????????


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## Snoonyb (Mar 14, 2017)

208V/ 28Amps
230V/24Amps


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> 208V/ 28Amps
> 230V/24Amps





But it peaks at start up around 45-50 amps


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## Snoonyb (Mar 14, 2017)

Either on the motor or in the manual should be a wiring diagram depicting each, 208V and 230V.


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## Kabris (Mar 14, 2017)

If it's only drawing 24A and needs the 60A overcurrent protection only for startup, the 50A plug and receptacle should be ok, but I would definitely run #6 wire. It's a short run so shouldn't cost too much.


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

That's what I will do.  I came across number six wiring free.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 14, 2017)

Here is a H.P./Amps chart; http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/elctrical-motor-full-load-current-d_1499.html


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## nealtw (Mar 14, 2017)

If you have a range and or dryer running from that panel you could run a test before breaking the bank on gear you may not need.:hide:


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## bud16415 (Mar 14, 2017)

Bottom line is if they require a 60amp breaker for inrush current you need the rest of the circuit capable of taking 60amps. Even if normal operation is only 30. If something fails in the motor and you have a short or partial short and you get a high current condition you need the wire and plugs and outlets heavy enough to stay sound until the current opens the breaker. Nothing is saying when something goes wrong the current will spike suddenly and open the breaker. You have no control over if the motor burns up but that is contained in the motor frame and away from combustibles. Wire and outlets are installed into your building and in contact with combustibles. If all of a sudden your motor starts drawing 59amps it will keep drawing that current indefinitely. The reason I suggested #6 and hardwired or a disconnect / outlet all rated the same as the breaker.


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## afjes_2016 (Mar 14, 2017)

Snoonyb said:


> Here are the two manuals for your comp.; https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumabeltdrivemanual2014_2.pdf
> 
> https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumapk6560vcatalogpage_oct2014.pdf
> 
> ...



Those are the manuals I found online but they don't specify the model # the OP has.

Also the OP has to go with 230V (240V) as 208 is only available with 3 phase set-up.




> If you have a range and or dryer running from that panel you could run a test before breaking the bank on gear you may not need.


Neal, not quite sure what you are suggesting here. Please elaborate.


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## nealtw (Mar 14, 2017)

afjes_2016 said:


> Neal, not quite sure what you are suggesting here. Please elaborate.



If he has 30 and or 40 amp breakers he can wire to those to see if a 30 or 40 will carry the load before he buys more expensive wire and breakers than he really needs. I think most times the breaker will hold long enough for a compressor to start.

I have a portable that draws 13 amps and runs just fine on a 15 amp breaker and it draws 42 amps on start up.


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## JoeD (Mar 14, 2017)

Normally a 60 amp circuit requires #6 wires. However this a pure motor load and they have special considerations. I don't have the actual number but you could probably use less than #6 if you wanted.


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## kenny6486 (Mar 14, 2017)

I have space for a few more breakers and the # 6 awg  wire is free.  My biggest fear is killing my family by taking electrical short cuts.  I will stick with 60 amp


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## nealtw (Mar 14, 2017)

kenny6486 said:


> I have space for a few more breakers and the # 6 awg  wire is free.  My biggest fear is killing my family by taking electrical short cuts.  I will stick with 60 amp



That is all in how you look at it, the breaker is only rated to protect the wire but if the breaker is closer to what is needed to drive the equipment it is more likely to kick out when the motor starts burning rather than 2 or 3 minutes later.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 14, 2017)

afjes_2016 said:


> Those are the manuals I found online but they don't specify the model # the OP has.
> 
> Also the OP has to go with 230V (240V) as 208 is only available with 3 phase set-up.



Here is the link to the site that both the manual and spec sheet were pulled from;

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/*Puma-PK7060V*-Air-Compressor/p11114.html

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumabeltdrivemanual2014_2.pdf

If you read through this link you'll find the OP's comp. pictured, and labeled, at the bottom row right and the specs listed at the bottom.

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumapk6560vcatalogpage_oct2014.pdf

The OP understands the necessity for the 230V, obviated by the thred heading.


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## Snoonyb (Mar 14, 2017)

kenny6486 said:


> I have space for a few more breakers and the # 6 awg  wire is free.  My biggest fear is killing my family by taking electrical short cuts.  I will stick with 60 amp



Another question, if you please; what size is you present main and is the nomenclature tag on your service still available, and legible?


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## slownsteady (Mar 15, 2017)

....starting to sound more like Wuzzat every day  :hide::rofl:


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## bud16415 (Mar 15, 2017)

I&#8217;m all for free. Not sure if you mentioned what kind of #6 wire you have?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 15, 2017)

Aluminum or copper, and the strand count?


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## afjes_2016 (Mar 15, 2017)

OP according to online document >>  https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumapk6560vcatalogpage_oct2014.pdf << (bottom) will need to rewire the motor itself for 230 (240v) operation. So he has to make sure he has the instructions for that before energizing the circuit.


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## kenny6486 (Mar 15, 2017)

bud16415 said:


> Im all for free. Not sure if you mentioned what kind of #6 wire you have?





Single strand. Will put in conduit


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## Kabris (Mar 15, 2017)

Make sure it's #6 copper.


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## kenny6486 (Mar 15, 2017)

I hear gold is a better conductor- no will ever find my life savings in that form


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## Kabris (Mar 15, 2017)

I don't see an issue using a 50A plug and receptacle in this case. How is this different than using a 15A GFI in your kitchen or bathroom and putting it on a 20A breaker? I see this done all the time. And by having this unit on a cord and plug, with the breaker in sight, no other means of disconnect is required.


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## Kabris (Mar 15, 2017)

Silver too, but those metals can get pricey lol.


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## bud16415 (Mar 15, 2017)

A 60 amp plug or any plug for that matter is not designed to energize or power down under load. We all use a 120v plug as a switch from time to time plugging in the Christmas lights, but I don&#8217;t know many people willing to unplug their cloths drier or welder or power up their 60amp inrush air compressor with a 240v plug and socket. I know I don&#8217;t. 

Really the breaker panel is not designed to be the circuit switch ether, but many people do that. The best suggestion in this thread was afjes_2016 to wire in a proper disconnect switch close to the compressor. If a plug is then needed I would recommend a disconnect switch plug combo that has an interlock. I know that would be overkill for most home garages, but would be the safest and it is the type of heavy current plug and sockets that most industry is moving to. 

If something fails and the motor is drawing high current connected to 60amp breaker the last thing I want to reach for to stop it is a 50amp energized plug to pull. Again the inner windings of a modern motor are all made with materials that pass smoke and flame requirements they are capable of cooking themselves to death without bursting into flames. That cant be said for a drier plug mounted to a wood wall or undersized wire for the breaker.  

If you want to use a 50amp plug then I would take my chances with a 50amp breaker also.


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## JoeD (Mar 15, 2017)

> I don't see an issue using a 50A plug and receptacle in this case. How is this different than using a 15A GFI in your kitchen or bathroom and putting it on a 20A breaker?



Because by code the 15amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit is allowed.
The 60 amp circuit requires a 60 amp receptacle.


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## nealtw (Mar 15, 2017)

You might find this interesting.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-139959.html


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## kenny6486 (Mar 15, 2017)

Neil I found that very interesting I appreciate you sending that. It's almost identical to my situation


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## nealtw (Mar 15, 2017)

kenny6486 said:


> Neil I found that very interesting I appreciate you sending that. It's almost identical to my situation



Like I said, I would try it on a breaker that you have. It wouldn't hurt anything if it trips a 40 amp breaker, then you would know.


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## bud16415 (Mar 16, 2017)

nealtw said:


> Like I said, I would try it on a breaker that you have. It wouldn't hurt anything if it trips a 40 amp breaker, then you would know.



You really wouldn&#8217;t know. My compressor starts much harder in the winter than summer. The manufacture stated what they want to see. People are free to take those suggestions and do whatever they like with them until something fails or they get inspected. I don&#8217;t doubt you could wire this to a 30 or 40 amp circuit and wire it with #12 and it would work. There are safety factors built into all systems and if you want to run at a 1:1 safety factor things will work. 

I had a friend ask me the other day to borrow my PEX tools and I said sure what are you plumbing and he said my air compressor @130lbs. I told him it wasn&#8217;t a good idea as the tubing isn&#8217;t rated a lot higher than that and he would cut his safety factor down to nothing. He started telling me several guys that had been using it and it works. I told him that still doesn&#8217;t mean it is a good idea in the long run to be on the edge of your safety factor.


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## afjes_2016 (Mar 16, 2017)

kenny6486 said:


> Single strand. Will put in conduit



Single strand would be a solid conductor. When you refer to "stranded" it refers to the fact that there are more than one "wire" contained within the same insulation for that same "conductor" within the cable or individual conductors. I don't think you have solid #6 but I could be wrong.

Even Home Depot gets it wrong sometimes in their descriptions.

Here they say this is stranded UF in the main description and the "specifications" when in fact it is solid (well at least the picture shows solid).

Here is actual stranded. See the difference?


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## Snoonyb (Mar 16, 2017)

Murphy's law; what can go wrong, will.

Because you followed somebody's advice on the internet.


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## Speedbump (Mar 16, 2017)

I wouldn't put a lot of faith in the 6.5hp.  I used to see all kinds of over rated motors in my shop.  Most if not all are labeled with a 1.0 service factor and the amp draw tells the truth about actual horsepower.  I wouldn't be at all surprised that motor could run on #12 with a 30 amp breaker.  I'm not suggesting anyone do that, but I'm quite sure it would work.  A real 5 hp motor for instance runs at around 28 amps on 230 volts under load.  And that is a very large motor compared to that compressor motor.


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## Kabris (Mar 16, 2017)

afjes_2016 said:


> Single strand would be a solid conductor. When you refer to "stranded" it refers to the fact that there are more than one "wire" contained within the same insulation for that same "conductor" within the cable or individual conductors. I don't think you have solid #6 but I could be wrong.
> 
> Even Home Depot gets it wrong sometimes in their descriptions.
> 
> ...




When he said single strand I think he meant individual conductors stranded, hopefully copper.


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## bud16415 (Mar 16, 2017)

There is a multitude of #6 single conductor stranded and solid wire out there with all different insulation ratings, heat ratings, smoke and flame ratings and permeability ratings for water and such. Not to mention copper and other materials. Not all of them are allowed by code to go inside conduit for home residential wiring. For example I can&#8217;t take 6-3 / ground Romex NM-B and strip away the outer sheath and then use the conductors in a conduit.

Would it work fine? Most likely yes. 

With free wire I was hoping the OP would have told us what the identification on the wire said. Can he use it as I said before sure he can and it will most likely work fine. If he was to get inspected could he fail? Most certainly. 

As to devices misleading their true HP and duty cycle sure it is common. Go to harbor freight you will marvel at how many HP they can get from little motors. Still I would follow the manufactures recommendation unless I had some other source telling me different. 

It has been mentioned a few times now if this motor is set up for a different voltage than 240v take the time to make the proper changes to run on 240v.


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