# Carrier AC Outside Fan Will Not Turn ON



## Galaga1 (May 15, 2013)

Any help is appreciated.  The motor fan to my outside AC unit will not turn on.  I had the capacitor checked, and it is OK.  What is my next step.  Is the motor fan bad?

Thanks,

J Grabowski


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## lloyd (May 15, 2013)

Check the fan motor to see if it's warm/hot. If it's hot replace, it.


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## kok328 (May 15, 2013)

Stupid question but, is the circuit breaker "on" for the outside unit?
Does the compressor come on but, not the fan?
Do you have a volt/ohm meter to perform some simple tests that will allow us to further assist you?


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## dthornton (May 15, 2013)

You can also stick (CAREFULLY!) a screwdriver down through the guard and see if the fan blade will turn. Mine didn't - it was frozen up. However, you could hear the compressor run. I had my plumber/HVAC replace the fan and the unit cools just fine. Cost me $100 (as opposed to $1500+ for a new unit.


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## Galaga1 (May 16, 2013)

Yes Sir the breaker is on.  The fan moves freely in both directions.  I do have a voltage meter.  A few questions.  I had a new furnace put in 4 months ago, and the burner has leaked oil from day one.  A factory rep. is coming out to my house next week to access the problem.  Could this have anything to do with my outside fan not turning on?  Should I press in the contractor plunger to see if the fan and compressor will turn on, and should I have the safety swtich in the ON position that is located near the outside unit?  The compressor was also warm to the touch, and I did not have the unit on.  Is this normal?  Sorry, for the long response, but I needed to give you an overview of what has been going on.

Thanks,

jay Grabowski


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## oldognewtrick (May 16, 2013)

Jay, the make, model and number on the unit will help identify what is wrong with your unit.


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## kok328 (May 16, 2013)

Yes the safety switch (service switch/disconnect) should be on.
You should have 240VAC to the L1,L2 lugs of the contactor.
You should have 24VAC to the coil lugs of the contactor.
With 24VAC to the coil, the contactor should be engaged and you should also see 240VAC on the T1,T2 lugs of the contactor.
Shut off the disconnect and check for burn wires leading to the compressor and contactor.
Also, test the capacitor.  Sounds like the system if seized up or cut off on low pressure.
The fact that the compressor is not running but, yet warn is not a good sign and may be siezed up.
The fact that the fan is not running when the compressor should be is not a good sign, you will have to verify proper voltage to the fan motor to determine the problem with the fan.
Also check for burnt windings in the compressor (between leads and all leads to ground (i.e.-comrpressor housing)).


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## kok328 (May 18, 2013)

Ricky,  I would have to agree but, under a private message the OP has indicated that he had the air handler portion replaced and that when he manually engages the contactor, the fan will come on.  I suspect the contactor coil wires were not hooked up or not hooked up correctly.


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## hparkinson (May 19, 2013)

If you've checked the fan for free movement; checked the cap (be careful); you have power going to the fan; excessive heat; I will run a continuity across the fan wiring to see if the motor windings are still intact and even check it to ground. The overload protector has probably kicked in because of several reasons. Check the motor when it has cooled. Checking a hot motor may give you a false reading. At this point it sounds like you need a new motor. Don't forget, find out what caused the original problem and correct that first.


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## kok328 (May 19, 2013)

A lot of people ask for HVAC help but, when asked to perform a few preliminary test to help us narrow down the problem, they become overwhelmed and disappear.
Based on the information we were able to obtain, I'm pretty sure the fan motor is not the problem.


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