# Formica and Sink



## avimia (Apr 21, 2007)

Hello everyone,

Would like some suggestions and advice on this situation. 

Everything in our kitchen will be brand new. With that, I want to install a farm-style (apron) sink (single basin) which is about 35" wide. But, I also want to install formica countetops. So my question is... how will this work with the farm sink? Since the farm sink just drops in, my concern is the edges next to the sink and the water issue. I think I can get the sink set so it is flush with the left and right sides where the countertop edges are. But, I also think that will have a seam there (and water and formica seams don't mix well). I thought about the possibility of creating a full bull-nosed edge on those sides of the counters, but not sure how that will layout.

Any thought are appreciated.

Thanks,
avi


----------



## glennjanie (Apr 22, 2007)

Hello Avi:
Get the closest most acurate cut you can get  then caulk around the sink with silicone.
Glenn


----------



## MattCoops (May 22, 2007)

Hire a plumber.


----------



## Kerrylib (May 22, 2007)

When you cut out the opening for the sink, you could apply the finish strips for the formica laminate over the cut.  I assume your concern is due to the countertop being constructed from a particle board material.  Whoever does your countertop should be able to give you good advice about applying the laminate to the newly exposed surface.  Once you set your sink in place, a good bead of caulk to seal between the sink and the countertop will provide a barrier to prevent water from getting in, but having the cut edge of the counter top material covered with the laminate will add another layer of protection.

For typical "self rimming" sinks, I don't know what is the standard practice for protecting the exposed edge of the countertop from where the sink cutout is done.  I think it is assumed that the silicone caulk used to seal the sink down is going to prevent water from getting in and disolving the particle board.  Since it is a DIY project it is well worth your extra effort and small materials cost to do something to seal it up and give you an extra level of protection.


----------



## AndyD5 (Jun 5, 2007)

my sink is a massive one single tub with a drain board on either side the countertop buts up next to it flush the sink rim is lined up with the edge of the counter the end of the countertop was sealed with a primer then caulk then an edging strip the top of my counter was originally stainless steal wich I'm sure was great back in 1947 but since someone has tiled over the top probably the holes and rust of 50 years wear on it is why I don't know but the sink is still in the same position and the counter is just butted right next to it and with just what is there have not had any water getting into the cabinet underneath. Personally I don't like the look of the old counter at all but when I finish remodeling I'm putting the sink back in a new formica top because the way it is now I may just return it the same way.


----------



## Rustedbird (Jun 7, 2007)

This is what we are doing now at where I'm working. Painting all raw edges and undersides of the laminate countertops with Zinnzer BIN alcohol based shellac primer. The stuff is flammable and kills brain cells, so if you use it, do it outside. It's also pretty runny so a wipe rag is needed. Also clean up is with denatured alcohol, so not easy. 

Suggest something safer like a good water based primer. Only reason we are doing the alcohol based shellac primer is stopping formaldehyde out-gassing from the glues in the pressed wood, besides the moisture from the sink. The sink is stainless steel, but it will be caulked. Caulk the the cabinet seams inside and around the pipes if not open back. Also paint the raw unfinished edges as well. 

My own sink is an ungodly heavy cast iron two bowl, that's held in place with GE RTV silicone caulk. It's not going anywhere. The counters also have vacuum formed edges that roll under and catch the cabinet.


----------

