# Extending J channel or starter strip nail flange higher? Or short screws?



## rerod (Apr 26, 2006)

I have a cantilever first floor which overhangs the basement 1 foot. The 70's home has old T1-11 siding which hangs 2 1/4" lower than the existing 3/8" plywood soffit nailed to the bottom of the joists on the exterior cantilever. My problem is that when I install my board and batten vertical vinyl siding, I need to have a J channel nailed on the bottom edge to recieve the B&B siding. The J channel will be 1/4" lower than the T1-11 to prevent water from wicking into the bottom of the T1-11 which positions the nails for the bottom J channel 1 1/4" above the bottom edge of the T1-11. These nail tips and the splinters they make will be in a area which can be seen when looking up into the cantilever soffit. Iv thought about making another soffit a few inches lower to hide these nail tips and splinters. But The project looks harder than expected because of the limited space and unlevel soffit. 
  My question.. Can I pop rivet a extender on the nail flange of this bottom J channel to move the nails higher so they dont penetrate below the existing soffit? And does vinyl coil stock exist to keep the materials expantion rate the same? Or could I use 5/8" flat head screws to mount the bottom J channel to the 5/8" T1-11 as not to penetrate the back side? Sorry my question is so long winded. But this is drivin me nuts as Im the home owner / jackleg who wont settle for jackleg results. 

Thanks

Mike


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## oldslowchevy (Apr 26, 2006)

the easy way i have dealt with this was to rip down a 2x4 to the right size.once the wood is installed,break a piece of metal to wrap aroundthe t-111 under the bottom and up the back side of the new wood. i hope you understand what i mean.


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## inspectorD (Apr 26, 2006)

Why dont you just cut the lip off? No need to extend anything.
Then paint the exposed wood to avoid wicking.

Done.


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## Square Eye (Apr 26, 2006)

I've used pan head screws before. I just left them loose enough to move without binding. Worked out great!


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## Bridgewater (Apr 26, 2006)

Rerod; I realy wish you showed the rest of the house.As was posted befor folks are saing they would eather fer out the soffit, or cut the lip off. I have done both. But it looks like a duplex. if your T1 11 spans all around your house you just might have to fer out the soffit to keep the low point with the rest of the house.


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## rerod (Apr 27, 2006)

Thanks all.  

After looking closer at the cantilever soffit over the garage.  Iv found it drops more than 1/2" over the door.  So if I furr it I would have to shim and level it so it was level with the bottom of the outside wall siding.  Pain in the a##.  And I like the hollow look and dont want the soffit to stand proud or even flush with the bottom of the siding. When its hollow you cant notice the 1/2" drop up 2" inside the soffit.

So the 5/8" #6 stainless pan head screws sound like the best option.  I will only use these short screws on the bottom J channel which recieves the board and batten vinyl siding so they dont penetrate the back side of the T1-11 in the cantilever soffit area. And use longer screws or nails everywhere else. Then I will cap or wrap the bottom edge of the T1-11 with matching coil stock up to the existing soffit since no nails will be poking through.  Then install new soffit over the existing to keep that hollow look.

My only issue now it the diameter of the screw. Vinyl Siding Institute states to use a #8 panhead or sheet metal screws, but the diameter of a #8 (.164") is more than the nail slot in my siding (.150"). So Im deciding weather to enlarge the slot (take forever) or settle with a #5 or #6 screw. 

Mike


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## inspectorD (Apr 27, 2006)

What about adding washers to the screw?


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## rerod (Apr 27, 2006)

I tried a #8 screw.  And even though the diameter of the threads are larger than the vinyl slot. It still slides back and forth easy.

inspectorD..  Take a look at the B&B picture.  It lays almost flat on the sheathing compared to vinyl clapboard.  So I need a head which doesnt stick out much higher than a nail.  Sheet metel hex heads stand out to much IMO. So Im shopping for a #8 large head diameter SS panheads.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/tech/siding.asp

Looks promising

Thanks everyone


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## MTCquality (Aug 12, 2006)

Why cant you use F-channel? it is a standard soffit reciever and can be inverted to run nailer up... all you need to do is level back from your lowest point on the outside of the cantilever and and shoot a level line for your f-channel(up 1 5/8"). hang the f-channel nailer up and if there is gonna be siding behind it run it up first, rip it and notch it to allow expansion and then share the slots with the f channel.

thanks

MTC


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## Bridgewater (Aug 13, 2006)

Rerod did you get the job done yet and what did you go with?


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## rerod (Aug 18, 2006)

I ended up installing alum F channel on the house and used vinyl soffit since its over the garage. Drilled and nailed the vinyl soffit to the bottom edge of the plywood T 1-11 siding after cutting off 3/8". Cutting off the 3/8" leveled the T 1-11 (sagging 1/2" over the garage) and also removed the weathered tails which were standing proud in some spots. It also raised the soffit so that it is recessed 1/4" higher than the siding yet to be installed. I then wrapped the bottom with alum fascia cap just like I did on the roof soffit.  Took longer than I wanted but looks great.  Its raining now but I will post pictures soon if you want. 

I looked at other houses like mine and only about 10% took the time to install a soffit.  The others looked like hell with nails and splinters showing everywhere.  Lots of hacks out there.  This home owner (me) wont settle for that since vinyl looks cheesy from the get go anyway.


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## Square Eye (Aug 19, 2006)

Would love to see pictures, glad you got it looking the way you wanted it.
We all know that there are hacks out there, but when you do the job yourself, 
you have the opportunity to do it well, or hack it up yourself.
I'm glad you took the time to post your solution.
I'm sure it looks great.


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