# Wood stove stained my shingles #[email protected]!!



## Trapaddict (Mar 27, 2006)

Is there any way to remove or at least lighten some stains on my shingles caused by my wood stove chimney?  Something that will not degrade the asphalt yet attack the creosote or whatever the heck it is? My chimney allowed the build up of too much creosote because of burning some wood that was too wet.  The smoke at the chimney was actually cool enough to allow dark icicles (actually ice not creosote) to form on the lip of the chimney cap and drip on theroof causing the stains.  

JK


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## oldslowchevy (Mar 27, 2006)

i have sprayed bleach and then washed it off with a power washer holding the nossle about 12-18"off the shingles also i worked from the peak and worked my way down so i wouldn't get any lift on the shingles but i would not sujest that you do this if the pitch is more than a 7-12 as slipping and falling becomes a real safety concern


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## Trapaddict (Mar 28, 2006)

Oldslowchevy -

Was you technique used to remove the same type of stains I am talking about or just rust and other stuff?  

JK


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## oldslowchevy (Mar 28, 2006)

it was with rust from a flue pipe and tree pitch the roof was so stained that it was very hard to tell what color it really was and once done it wasn't prefect but i was able to go about 90-95% of the roof to match the rest of the shingles also  as stated in my frist post you can not put the nossel right down on the roof as it can tear though a shingle also if your roof is more than a 7-12 pitch safety becomes a real concern so what ever you do please just be careful in doing it


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## Trapaddict (Apr 3, 2006)

Were you running straight bleach or diluted somewhat?

JK


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## Square Eye (Apr 3, 2006)

oldslowchevy said:
			
		

> it was very hard to tell what color it really was and once done it wasn't prefect but i was able to go about 90-95% of the roof to match the rest of the shingles


I've never seen anything take kreosote off of shingles. I've tried a lot of products myself to remove stains from roofs. Bleach, tire cleaner, Dawn, Simple Green works about as well as anything if you let it soak for a while first. That's hard to do when the sun is up and the roof is drying as fast as you can spray it on. If you find something that works, let us know. Be careful with bleach and other cleaners, you will streak up the fascia boards and gutters before you know it. I found this out the hard way.

Tom in KY, I didn't dilute anything, but now I know to lay a towel on the roof below where I'm working!


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## inspectorD (Apr 4, 2006)

Try WD 40 .It works wonders on roof tar.
Protection as Tom in KY said. 
InspectorD


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## oldslowchevy (Apr 4, 2006)

to answers trap addict question to me i used the bleach strait i put it in a pump up style of sprayer so i could control it better. sq eye you are 100% correct about the risk of some steaking but the home that i have done this on was getting new fascia boards and and i truly should have stated that in my frist post and thank you for pointing that out to everyone,and now inspector D unless this is a small area(3sq ft or less)i would not use oil of any kind on a roof the risks to safety in my opion just are not worth it,and being on a roof for most poeple is scary enough now if was siding(not wood though)i would agree with you 100% but you have to keep in mind the roof is the place where the home owner is the most likely to get very very hurt if he/she slips up there also think of if like this dry roof  most poeple are 85%stable wet roof brings that down around near 60-65% oil slicked roof more than likely around 40%stabe and the biggest thing that happens is fear more than the oil,they would start to slip and brace them self then in an instatend regain traction but are so froze up in fear could still topple over and please inspector don't take this as a but reaming from it is not.you do give very good advise it is just this one is alittle shaky at best IMHO


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## inspectorD (Apr 4, 2006)

What's wrong with a little slip and Sssliddddeeeee???

Honestly I think everone needs to be careful on a roof..even us experts.
The Idea that some one may be on the roof at the same time as the WD-40 trick did escape my Homeowner common sense mantra.
As always do it safe, Mabey from a ladder at the edge tied off with some fall protection.

I was only explaining how to get the tar removed, Saftey is up to the individual.

Darwin speaks!!
InspectorD


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## Bridgewater (Apr 5, 2006)

Trapaddict; I have called three of our our supplers to try and find help for you on this staining proublm, With no disrespect, everyone said tell this guy to quit burning wet wood or reroof with a color shingle of the stain. LOL 
Well what I found out is this is a wood sap or resin on your shingles.
 WD 40 is OK for your roof< I had my doubts! Another one is a product I use to clean tar or anything else from from my siding, and was suggested. It will rinse off with water, made by DeWitt and called Removeit. This is the site.
http://www.dewittproducts.com/procleaners.html


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## oldslowchevy (Apr 17, 2006)

well i sure would like to know what has happen to date and if you had any luch sofar


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## Trapaddict (May 18, 2006)

Problem was not so much with wet wood but an oversised chimney and an airtight stove. Existing chimney was 8".  Flue pipe on stove was a 6".  Add airtight into the equation and you have an extremely slow draft.  I don't care if you are burning 15% moisture wood, you are going to get build up with stack temps that low and drafts that slow. I still have not attacked that stain problem.  Wood stove is coming out though, that is certain.  Have my new corn burner in the garage in the crate.   I do have enough shingles I saved from the original roof installation 3 years ago to redo the problem area but I did not want to have to go there.  I am trying to decide if I want to rinstall stove in the garage for supplimental winter heat.  If I do, I am running a 6" seamless liner up the inside of the existing 8" double wall class A to get the draft speed and stack temps up.  

Jeff


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## woodworkingmenace (May 18, 2006)

Hmmm I'm wondering if waterless hand cleaner will work?  GO-JO or something like that... 

Take a scrub brush, and a liberal amount on it, then scrub the area and wash off with some water from a large sprayer...(hose type, not blast with a power washer... I would worry about damaging the shingles with that).

Since its a petroleum product, it should cut the soot, as it would your hands, and be gentle to the shingles...  (but as always, test on a part of the roof tha isnt going to be showing or spare shingles..)..

I think this might actually work...to think more about it  

Jesse


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