# Maytag range - broilier lights instead of oven



## Raindem (Feb 5, 2018)

We have a Maytag gas range.

When I turn the oven on to any temperature, the oven burner does not light.  Instead, the broiler burner turns on.  The oven will then heat up with the broiler burner instead of the oven burner, as shown by the display.  Normally, when in broil mode oven temp is not even displayed.

Any ideas on what would cause this strange behavior?  The range is around 10 years old and this problem started just recently.  The owners manual troubleshooting section doesn't mention anything remotely close to this problem.

Thanks

Curt


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## Sparky617 (Feb 5, 2018)

When you pre-heat the oven generally both the top and bottom burners turn on.   I suspect your ignitor for the bottom burner is toast. I've replaced mine twice over the 18 years I've had this range.

Go to www.repairclinic.com and plug in your make and model number and search the parts.  If you can't find it provide the complete model number in a follow up post in this thread and I'll search for it and link to it.


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## Raindem (Feb 5, 2018)

Thats interesting.  It never occured to me that the broiler runs during pre-heat but I guess it makes sense.  I replaced the ignitor for the broiler about a year ago so at least I'm familiar with that repair.

Thanks for the reply.


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## Sparky617 (Feb 5, 2018)

On my GE the part wasn't cheap, but it wasn't hard to replace if you are reasonably handy.  Over at Handymanwire.com Jeff1 is really helpful with appliance questions.  I understand he used to post here, but hasn't been here in a long time.  He's my go-to guy when I have question about my appliances.  I've repaired several myself based on the information he's given me.


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## Raindem (Feb 5, 2018)

I removed the bottom cover so I could observe the igniter when the oven was turned on.  Did not glow at all.  I then removed the igniter and tested it for continuity.  220 ohms.  According to the video at RepairClinic.com that's within the acceptable range.

I found the part for $58 but now it sounds like that may not be the problem. Are there any other troubleshooting steps I can take at this point?

Thanks


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## bud16415 (Feb 5, 2018)

Can you swap it with the other one and see if the problem moves?


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## Raindem (Feb 5, 2018)

bud16415 said:


> Can you swap it with the other one and see if the problem moves?



The broiler igniter mounts differently so it won't be in a position to light the burner.  But I suppose I could swap them to see which one(s) glow when the oven is turned on.  Is it safe to test them that way?


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## bud16415 (Feb 5, 2018)

I would think it safe. The same power source would power them both. Some of the pros may know what voltage to test one at. I&#8217;m just thinking it has to be that part or whatever is powering it.


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## jeffmattero76 (Feb 5, 2018)

If the igniter does not glow at all, and a continuity test is within range,  I would suggest testing the wire that the igniter plugs into. If you have a multimeter, see if you are getting 120 volts there. If no voltage there,  the problem is not the igniter.


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## Raindem (Feb 5, 2018)

I was referring more to a potential gas buildup.


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## jeffmattero76 (Feb 5, 2018)

Raindem said:


> I was referring more to a potential gas buildup.


Typically, the gas valve will not send gas to the burner tube unless the igniter gets to a certain temperature. If the igniter is not glowing, the gas valve should not open.


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## Raindem (Feb 5, 2018)

jeffmattero76 said:


> Typically, the gas valve will not send gas to the burner tube unless the igniter gets to a certain temperature. If the igniter is not glowing, the gas valve should not open.



OK, but I should disconnect the broiler igniter while performing this test.  If I had hair, it might catch on fire .  It would also allow me to compare voltages between the 2 wiring harnesses.


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## jeffmattero76 (Feb 6, 2018)

Raindem said:


> OK, but I should disconnect the broiler igniter while performing this test.  If I had hair, it might catch on fire .  It would also allow me to compare voltages between the 2 wiring harnesses.


That is probably a good idea. I believe you should be getting 120 volts at both connectors.


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## Sparky617 (Feb 6, 2018)

Is there a fuse in that circuit?  You should have a schematic attached to the range somewhere, probably on the back of it.


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## Raindem (Feb 6, 2018)

I have the schematic and I'm really lousy at reading them.  One wire goes to power and the other to the bake valve.  But then there's another schematic on the other side that shows things differently and I don't know which one applies to my unit.  But neither show any fuses.


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## Sparky617 (Feb 6, 2018)

Raindem said:


> I have the schematic and I'm really lousy at reading them.  One wire goes to power and the other to the bake valve.  But then there's another schematic on the other side that shows things differently and I don't know which one applies to my unit.  But neither show any fuses.



It was a thought, good to check.  Have you been able to put a voltmeter on the connections?


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## Raindem (Feb 6, 2018)

I get 120v to the broiler igniter and 15v to the bake igniter.  Incidently, the same voltage is at the oven igniter with the oven turn off.  So it looks like the igniter is probably good after all.

Is it Maytag repairman time, or can I go further into this?


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## maxdad118 (Feb 6, 2018)

There may be a micro amp rating on the control valve(mA needed to open the main burner valve). If you have a fieldman meter with clamp to test the amps, simply clamp over 1 of the wires going to the igniter and turn it on. Check your read and compare. Most weak igniters May glow but but aren&#8217;t producing enough anymore to open the main burner valve and it&#8217;s common that some gas may be bypasssed. See it a lot in my job....usually on Thanksgiving&#65533;&#65533;haha


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## jeffmattero76 (Feb 6, 2018)

Raindem said:


> I get 120v to the broiler igniter and 15v to the bake igniter.  The same voltage is there with the oven turn off incidently.  So it looks like the igniter is probably good after all.
> 
> Is it Maytag repairman time, or can I go further into this?


I am no expert, but I do minor appliance repairs at my rental properties. To be clear, you removed both igniters, and plugged your multimeter into the female plugs of the wires. If that is correct, then obviously the broiler igniter and wiring are fine. I am not sure why or how you would be getting only 15 volts to the other wire. The only possibility that comes to mind is a loose connection upstream of that female plug. Can you follow that wire back to where it connects upstream?  Hopefully someone else here will have better ideas for you.


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## Sparky617 (Feb 6, 2018)

Try registering over at handymanwire and post your question in the appliance section.  Jeff1 over there is really helpful.  Post the model number and what you've done so far.

He's like the Farmer's Insurance Guy, he has seen it all.


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## Raindem (Feb 6, 2018)

MaxDad - I'm not sure I understand the test you are describing.  (p.s. I have a YJ too!)

Jeff - That is correct.  Both igniters unplugged.  With the oven off the broiler igniter gets 1v and the bake igniter 15v.  When the oven is turned on the broiler gets 120v and the bake igniter stays at 15v.  Both wires disappear behind the back panel and insulation so I think I need to pull the range out to get further into it.

Sparky - I will check them out.  Thanks.


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## Raindem (Feb 7, 2018)

I tried to register at Handymanwire but never received a confirmation email so I couldn't log in.  But I read through some of their posts and decided to test the gas valve.

Both the broiler valve and oven valve measured 1.1 ohm resistance, which is where they are supposed to be.  So now I'm thinking a control panel issue (which of course is the most expensive part).  Before I start tearing into that I decide to test voltage again at the igniter.  120v.  WTH?  Test it again. 120v.  So I hook everything back up and start a bake cycle.  The oven burner lights right up.

All I did was unplug the gas valve connectors to test resistance.  Could this whole thing have been as simple as a loose connection at the gas valve?

Curt


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## bud16415 (Feb 7, 2018)

Looks like jeffmattero76 nailed it in post #19.


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## nealtw (Feb 7, 2018)

If it is like a micro wave sometimes just unplugging them and plugging them in re sets things.


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## Raindem (Feb 7, 2018)

That could be true too.  I didn't try cycling the power off-on before troubleshooting


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## Sparky617 (Feb 7, 2018)

Post up your details of the model and I'll post it at Handymanwire and see what Jeff has to say.


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## Raindem (Feb 7, 2018)

Maytag # MGR5775QDS1


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## nealtw (Feb 7, 2018)

Raindem said:


> That could be true too. I didn't try cycling the power off-on before troubleshooting


You will next time. :thbup:


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## Sparky617 (Feb 8, 2018)

Here is the thread I posted for Jeff at handymanwire.

http://handymanwire.com/ubbthreads/...484/Maytag_Gas_Range_Oven_Igniter_#Post932484


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## Raindem (Feb 9, 2018)

Sparky617 said:


> Here is the thread I posted for Jeff at handymanwire.
> 
> http://handymanwire.com/ubbthreads/...484/Maytag_Gas_Range_Oven_Igniter_#Post932484



Jeff responded to your thread but I am unable to reply.  It might be a good idea to update it.  After testing the gas valve and putting everything back together the oven started working again.

Thanks

Curt


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## Sparky617 (Feb 9, 2018)

Raindem said:


> Jeff responded to your thread but I am unable to reply.  It might be a good idea to update it.  After testing the gas valve and putting everything back together the oven started working again.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Curt



Done.  Appliances are my main reason for keeping a membership over there.  Jeff is awesome.


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